Wine List

Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
2014
Chevalier-Montrachet "La Cabotte"
Grand Cru White 750 ml
Score: 95
Tasted: Jun 15, 2016
Drink: 2024+
Issue: 63
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Note: Bouchard has been separately vinifying this parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Bouchard jokingly refers to this parcel as their "Montrachet du haute pente", or upper slope Montrachet
Producer note: Winemaker Frédéric Weber spent plenty of time discussing the nuances of the 2014 vintage and growing season, noting that "the winter was very mild, in fact we had the warmest one since 1900. Not surprisingly the vegetative cycle began very early and a cool north wind made sure that the vines suffered no disease pressure. The early June flowering passed without incidence and there was a relatively abundant fruit set. Throughout the month of June we were dreaming of the possibility of making another 1999 and then the 28th arrived with the widespread hailstorm and all such thoughts were instantly destroyed along with a great deal of the potential crop. In 2013 we lost about one-third of the potential crop whereas in 2014 it was more in the range of 40 to 45%. In fact it was the smallest crop here at Bouchard since 2003. In early July the direction of the wind changed from the north to the southwest and lousy weather followed the winds except for a few days that were so hot that some parcels suffered sun burned fruit. Happily the second half of August and virtually all of September changed once again for the better and conditions were not only near-perfect but again there was virtually no disease pressure because the small amount of rot that developed in August was dried by the prevailing north wind. It also helped that there weren't many berries on each bunch so the fruit was well-aerated. We chose to begin picking the pinot on the 11th of September but waited until the 14th to attack the chardonnay. The chardonnay was impeccably clean and potential alcohols were in the 12 to 13.5% range with good acid levels. In contrast to the relatively quick malos for the pinot, those for the chardonnay were extended. As is our usual practice we did zero bâtonnage and we used no new wood whatsoever. As to the style of the 2014 whites, they remind me a great deal of the 2008s which in my book is an excellent compliment." Weber noted that the villages wines were bottled in September 2015 followed by the 1ers in November and the grands crus in December. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: This presently has the same nose as the Corton-Charlemagne as it's both reduced and mildly woody though I would not expect this to persist beyond the first few years as the reduction is not heavy. There is once again outstanding volume and concentration as well as impressive size, weight and richness to the highly seductive big-bodied flavors that possess a plenitude of dry extract that both coats the palate and buffers the firm acid spine shaping the gorgeously long and well-balanced finale. In 2014 this more resembles Montrachet than Chevalier and I would make the same observation here that I made with the Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier that while this should amply reward extended cellaring it is not so backward that it shouldn't drink well after 6 to 8 years.
 

Rating

99

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2009 - 2047

Reviewed by

Jeb Dunnuck

Issue Date

28th Feb 2017

Source

229, The Wine Advocate

More tight and reserved than the open-knit Le Meal Blanc, the 2006 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree offers a heavenly bouquet of caramelized orchard fruits, celery seed, buttered hazelnuts, orange blossom and white flowers. Just crazy good on the palate, with full-bodied richness and a seamless, unctuous texture, it has incredible purity, precision and length, with this liquid rock-like minerality on the finish. It's just about as good as it gets, and while it's drinking great today, it should keep for 2-3 decades.

Rating

94

Release Price

$180 - 250

Drink Date

NA

Reviewed by

 Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Issue Date

28th Feb 2011

Source

193, The Wine Advocate

It is an amazing achievement. Even better is the 2008 Ermitage l’Ermite (449 cases). Not as concentrated as Le Pavillon, it reveals a powdered rock character in its ink, graphite, earth, blueberry and black currant-scented bouquet. Displaying medium to full body as well as great purity, it is another amazing accomplishment from Michel Chapoutier. Interestingly, in 2008, Chapoutier decided to cut back on the new oak for all of his top cuvees (utilizing 25% versus the normal 100%).  

JEB DUNNUCK: 100

Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Oree has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades. Dec 2014, www.robertparker.com

Rating

97

Release Price

$420

Drink Date

2021 - 2041

Reviewed by

Jeb Dunnuck

Issue Date

30th Dec 2016

Source

228, The Wine Advocate

The inky black/purple-colored 2014 Ermitage l’Ermite is more firm, backward and mineral driven than the sexier Pavillon, offering fabulous notes of scorched earth, wood smoke, crushed violets, and both blackcurrant and crème de cassis. An utterly profound effort, it defines the more charming nature of the vintage, displaying building tannin and one seriously long finish. Forget bottles for 5-7 years and enjoy over the following two decades.

Not enough can be said about the quality that consistently comes from this estate. From the top to the bottom of the range, you can’t go wrong. And while the prices at the top are frightfully expensive (they’re out of my zip code), there are incredible values from St Péray, St Joseph, Cornas and Crozes Hermitage that should be snatched up by readers. Looking at the 2014s reviewed here, these shine for their elegance and purity, and are certainly some of the most concentrated wines in the vintage. Readers shouldn’t forget that while 2014 was a complicated vintage for the reds, the whites are gorgeous. As to the 2015s, these massive and concentrated wines are going to demand patience, but at the top end, I suspect will be as good as wine gets.