Wine List

Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
2014
Chevalier-Montrachet "La Cabotte"
Grand Cru White 750 ml
Score: 95
Tasted: Jun 15, 2016
Drink: 2024+
Issue: 63
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Note: Bouchard has been separately vinifying this parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Bouchard jokingly refers to this parcel as their "Montrachet du haute pente", or upper slope Montrachet
Producer note: Winemaker Frédéric Weber spent plenty of time discussing the nuances of the 2014 vintage and growing season, noting that "the winter was very mild, in fact we had the warmest one since 1900. Not surprisingly the vegetative cycle began very early and a cool north wind made sure that the vines suffered no disease pressure. The early June flowering passed without incidence and there was a relatively abundant fruit set. Throughout the month of June we were dreaming of the possibility of making another 1999 and then the 28th arrived with the widespread hailstorm and all such thoughts were instantly destroyed along with a great deal of the potential crop. In 2013 we lost about one-third of the potential crop whereas in 2014 it was more in the range of 40 to 45%. In fact it was the smallest crop here at Bouchard since 2003. In early July the direction of the wind changed from the north to the southwest and lousy weather followed the winds except for a few days that were so hot that some parcels suffered sun burned fruit. Happily the second half of August and virtually all of September changed once again for the better and conditions were not only near-perfect but again there was virtually no disease pressure because the small amount of rot that developed in August was dried by the prevailing north wind. It also helped that there weren't many berries on each bunch so the fruit was well-aerated. We chose to begin picking the pinot on the 11th of September but waited until the 14th to attack the chardonnay. The chardonnay was impeccably clean and potential alcohols were in the 12 to 13.5% range with good acid levels. In contrast to the relatively quick malos for the pinot, those for the chardonnay were extended. As is our usual practice we did zero bâtonnage and we used no new wood whatsoever. As to the style of the 2014 whites, they remind me a great deal of the 2008s which in my book is an excellent compliment." Weber noted that the villages wines were bottled in September 2015 followed by the 1ers in November and the grands crus in December. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: This presently has the same nose as the Corton-Charlemagne as it's both reduced and mildly woody though I would not expect this to persist beyond the first few years as the reduction is not heavy. There is once again outstanding volume and concentration as well as impressive size, weight and richness to the highly seductive big-bodied flavors that possess a plenitude of dry extract that both coats the palate and buffers the firm acid spine shaping the gorgeously long and well-balanced finale. In 2014 this more resembles Montrachet than Chevalier and I would make the same observation here that I made with the Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier that while this should amply reward extended cellaring it is not so backward that it shouldn't drink well after 6 to 8 years.
 

OBERT PARKER: 93

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition was cropped at 23 hectoliters per hectare (overall it was a small crop in 2010), and is a blend of mostly Grenache and 20% Syrah, with 80% aged in old wood foudres and 20% in small barrels. The alcohol level came in at 15.5%. Classic black raspberry, black cherry, garrigue, and lavender notes hit the palate with considerable authority. The Syrah component provides a slightly deeper purple hue to the color than is apparent in some other vintages. The extra level of concentration due to the tiny yields has resulted in a full-bodied, rich wine with super purity. It is already accessible, and should keep for 10-15 years. ||This branch of the Usseglio family left their home in Italy following the Great Depression in 1929 to make a new start producing wine in southern France. This estate has been on “fire” qualitatively since 1998. The cellars of brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio, who own approximately 60 acres of vines, are located adjacent to the ruins of a pope’s palace on the northeastern side of the village. In top vintages, such as 2010, 2009 and 2007, three Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees are produced. These include a traditional cuvee, the old vine, tank- and foudre-aged Mon Aieul and the more modern-styled Reserve des Deux Freres. Lirac is on the acquisition list of many Chateauneuf du Pape proprietors for a number of reasons: (1) they live close by; (2)the terroir is not dissimilar from that of Chateauneuf du Pape; and (3) the land is relatively cheap. The 2010 Chateauneuf du Papes are superb. Wine Advocate.October, 2012

The 2006 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé is one of the most open, accessible vintages of this wine I can remember tasting. But it's still Roagna, which means the wine is powerful and structured, but less so than is typically the case. Iron, smoke, incense, tobacco, autumn leaves and a host of ferrous, savory notes are some of the signatures. As is sometimes the case here, extended time in barrel has dried out the fruit a bit. This is a style that personally gives me less pleasure, although, as the saying goes, your mileage may vary.

-- Antonio Galloni

Tasting note: This is also unusually expressive while exhibiting very subtle hints of exotic orange pekoe tea on the beautifully fresh nose of dried fruits that include apricot, white peach and acacia blossom. There is an opulent and caressing mouth feel to the very rich and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract before terminating in a delicious, mineral-driven and impressively long finish. This is rich to the point of succulence and while it will certainly age well this will be approachable much earlier than usual.

Rating

(94 - 96)

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2009 - 2039

Reviewed by

 Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Issue Date

29th Apr 2009

Source

182, The Wine Advocate

The 2007 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree reveals a light gold color as well as a rich nose of flowers intermixed with honeyed oranges, apricots, quince, and currants. Deep, full-bodied, and multidimensional, it should drink nicely for 30+ years.   

A stunner, sporting tropical mango and papaya notes that glide along beautifully, while heather honey, pineapple chutney and toasted coconut flavors fill in through the finish. Delivers an amazing mouthfeel that is both creamy and intense, with a pretty inner floral brightness that contrasts with the fruit. Best from 2020 through 2045. 6,665 cases made.

Score: 98 James Molesworth, WineSpectator.com, February 2017

The 2014 d'Yquem has a complex bouquet with buttered toast, almond, honey and peach skin aromas. It opens with greater zeal than its peers, there is more immediacy here. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, a finely tuned and satisfying Sauternes with style and grace, evincing great tension and mineral drive towards the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. 2020 - 2055

Score: 97 Neal Martin, vinous.com, March 2018

Very subtle Yquem on the nose with dried pineapple, lemons, green apples and hints of botrytis. The palate grabs you by the arms and shows you superb concentration of spices, dried fruit, phenolics and incredible energy. Nothing is like this from Sauternes this vintage! Drink whenever you like. Spellbinding.

Score: 98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, February 2017

A crazy combination of botrytis, dried fruits and freshness. It's not the sweetest Yquem but it has an extraordinary depth of fruit and freshness. It goes on for minutes. Spicy and intense. A stunning young wine. A brightness and fabulous depth of fruit.

Score: 97/98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, March 2015

The 2014 d'Yquem is a wine of restraint above all else. Candied lemon, orange peel, apricot jam, graphite and almond are some of the many threads in a rich fabric that envelops all the senses. A wine of contrasts, the 2014 is at times delicate, while in other moments it is more powerful. Although striking, the 2014 falls just short of being profound. In exchange, readers will find an Yquem that will give up its charms on the earlier side.

Score: 95 Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, February 2017

Bright gold with a green note. Intense freshness on the nose. Fabulous nose of richness and freshness. The residual sugar is not high but the balance is great. Lime and pears and great richness and almost like a fruit juice, it's so refreshing yet dense and sweet. 13.35%
Drink 2020-2050

Score: 19 Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com, April 2015

The greatest sweet wine of Bordeaux and without doubt one of the world's most famous wines. There is no denying outstanding quality is consistently maintained here but pricing in some recent vintages has been too high. The 2013 was not sold en primeur and the 2012 vintage was not produced. This vintage will also not be released en Primeur but held back until 2016.

  Farr Vintners, March 2015

Floral fragrant the nose is quite light with tangerine freshness the palate richer sweet fruit apricot and candied peel. The honeyed sweetness on the mid palate is balanced by freshness at the back stylish and fragrant this is not a heavyweight but has elegance and charm. 2016-35

Score: 93/97 Derek Smedley MW, April 2015

In a very good to excellent year for Sauternes, this was the outstanding wine, as it often is. Picked in four selections between September 5th and October 30th, it had 100% botrytis infection. Exotic, honeyed yet gloriously refreshing, with notes of lemon tart and nutmeg spice, it lingers tantalisingly on the palate.

Score: 97 Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com, April 2015

Score: 97 Decanter Magazine, April 2015

The thickest, most unctuous, full-bodied and sexy white of the vintage is the 2014 Ermitage de l’Orée. Coming all from the sedimentary soils of the Les Murets and aged mostly in demi-muids (only 15% new), it offers a sensational perfume of caramelized peaches, campfire, honeysuckle and white flowers that literally come soaring from the glass. Possessing uncommon density, a stacked mid-palate, loads of sweet fruit and a blockbuster finish, this hedonistic effort can be drunk with incredibly pleasure today, or cellared for a decade or more. It will have three or more decades of overall longevity.

Score: 98+ Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Advocate (222), December 2015

Rating

97

Release Price

$420

Drink Date

2021 - 2041

Reviewed by

Jeb Dunnuck

Issue Date

30th Dec 2016

Source

228, The Wine Advocate

The inky black/purple-colored 2014 Ermitage l’Ermite is more firm, backward and mineral driven than the sexier Pavillon, offering fabulous notes of scorched earth, wood smoke, crushed violets, and both blackcurrant and crème de cassis. An utterly profound effort, it defines the more charming nature of the vintage, displaying building tannin and one seriously long finish. Forget bottles for 5-7 years and enjoy over the following two decades.

Not enough can be said about the quality that consistently comes from this estate. From the top to the bottom of the range, you can’t go wrong. And while the prices at the top are frightfully expensive (they’re out of my zip code), there are incredible values from St Péray, St Joseph, Cornas and Crozes Hermitage that should be snatched up by readers. Looking at the 2014s reviewed here, these shine for their elegance and purity, and are certainly some of the most concentrated wines in the vintage. Readers shouldn’t forget that while 2014 was a complicated vintage for the reds, the whites are gorgeous. As to the 2015s, these massive and concentrated wines are going to demand patience, but at the top end, I suspect will be as good as wine gets.