Wine List

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CSV
Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Case Format Price Note Rating
White Bordeaux 2009 La Mission Haut Brion Blanc

1 Case 6 75cl £2,375
96
White Bordeaux 2010 Climens

2 Case 12 75cl £425
  • THE WINE ADVOCATE: 94-96

    JEANNIE CHO LEE MW: 94-96

    JANCIS ROBINSON: 18

     

    DECANTER:

    Berenice Lurton and her team managed to pick the crop just hours before rains fell on October 23. Tasting through every one of their lots in 2010, there was a theme of tautness, racy acidity and spice. Focusing upon two batches representing about 14% of the harvest, there was patently exquisite balance and a sense of concentrated but efficient power, counterbalanced by immense purity and effervescence. Their problem will be knowing exactly which lots to deselect! Neal Martin, Wine Advocate May 2011

Tasting Notes
96
White Bordeaux 2010 Haut Brion Blanc

1 Case 3 75cl £2,075
  • This full-bodied blend of 54% Sauvignon Blanc and 46% Semillon has a level of concentration and intensity that makes it the dry white wine of the vintage. Loads of minerality, a hint of subtle spice, but mostly just pure orange marmalade, candle wax, honeysuckle and caramelized melons make for a full-bodied, distinctive style of wine to drink over the next 50+ years.

    Score: 98 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205), March 2013

    A blend of 54% Sauvignon Blanc and 46% Semillon, this singular, compelling white exhibits notes of orange blossoms, lemons, melons, crushed rocks, spice and flowers. It is a sensational, provocative, full-bodied dry white to enjoy over the next 40 years.

    Score: 94/97 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (194), May 2011

    Tasted at Chateau Haut-Brion. There is a slight floral aspect to the nose of the Haut Brion Blanc with hints of almond, white chocolate and fresh pear underpinned by fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp citric fruit on the opening. It is slightly more phenolic than recent vintages, just a hint of white pepper tingling on the tongue with a well-balanced finish that is persistent. Good potential. Tasted November 2012.

    Score: 95 Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com, February 2013

Tasting Notes
98
White Bordeaux 2011 Climens

2 Case 6 75cl £265£240
  • eRobertParker.com #225
    Jun 2016 Neal Martin 94 Drink: 2025 - 2060
    The 2011 Climens repeated its performance from a few months ago. There is a tangible richness on the nose, touches of honeycomb and chalk infusing the honeyed fruit before those fig-like scents begin to emerge. The palate is beautifully balanced, unctuous in the mouth with a lovely salinity coming through on the long finish. It is way too young to strut its stuff at the moment, so afford it at least a decade in bottle. Tasted April 2016.

Tasting Notes
94
White Bordeaux 2011 La Mission Haut Brion Blanc

1 Case 6 75cl £3,000
94
White Bordeaux 2011 Haut Brion Blanc

2 Case 3 150cl £4,250
95
White Bordeaux 2011 Haut Brion Blanc

1 Case 12 75cl £8,500
95
White Bordeaux 2012 Climens

1 Case 12 37.5cl £165£150
  • Rating

    91

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    2018 - 2036

    Reviewed by

     Lisa Perrotti-Brown

    Issue Date

    31st Aug 2018

    Source

    238, The Wine Advocate

    Pale lemon-gold colored, the 2012 Climens has a slightly evolved nose sporting honeyed nut and toast notes with a core of lemon pie, fresh hay and allspice. Big, rich and powerful in the mouth, with maturing citrus and stone fruit notions, it has a provocatively spicy finish.

Tasting Notes
91
White Bordeaux 2014 Yquem

[US Slip labels]

1 Bottle 150cl £400
  • A stunner, sporting tropical mango and papaya notes that glide along beautifully, while heather honey, pineapple chutney and toasted coconut flavors fill in through the finish. Delivers an amazing mouthfeel that is both creamy and intense, with a pretty inner floral brightness that contrasts with the fruit. Best from 2020 through 2045. 6,665 cases made.

    Score: 98 James Molesworth, WineSpectator.com, February 2017

    The 2014 d'Yquem has a complex bouquet with buttered toast, almond, honey and peach skin aromas. It opens with greater zeal than its peers, there is more immediacy here. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, a finely tuned and satisfying Sauternes with style and grace, evincing great tension and mineral drive towards the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. 2020 - 2055

    Score: 97 Neal Martin, vinous.com, March 2018

    Very subtle Yquem on the nose with dried pineapple, lemons, green apples and hints of botrytis. The palate grabs you by the arms and shows you superb concentration of spices, dried fruit, phenolics and incredible energy. Nothing is like this from Sauternes this vintage! Drink whenever you like. Spellbinding.

    Score: 98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, February 2017

    A crazy combination of botrytis, dried fruits and freshness. It's not the sweetest Yquem but it has an extraordinary depth of fruit and freshness. It goes on for minutes. Spicy and intense. A stunning young wine. A brightness and fabulous depth of fruit.

    Score: 97/98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, March 2015

    The 2014 d'Yquem is a wine of restraint above all else. Candied lemon, orange peel, apricot jam, graphite and almond are some of the many threads in a rich fabric that envelops all the senses. A wine of contrasts, the 2014 is at times delicate, while in other moments it is more powerful. Although striking, the 2014 falls just short of being profound. In exchange, readers will find an Yquem that will give up its charms on the earlier side.

    Score: 95 Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, February 2017

    Bright gold with a green note. Intense freshness on the nose. Fabulous nose of richness and freshness. The residual sugar is not high but the balance is great. Lime and pears and great richness and almost like a fruit juice, it's so refreshing yet dense and sweet. 13.35%
    Drink 2020-2050

    Score: 19 Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com, April 2015

    The greatest sweet wine of Bordeaux and without doubt one of the world's most famous wines. There is no denying outstanding quality is consistently maintained here but pricing in some recent vintages has been too high. The 2013 was not sold en primeur and the 2012 vintage was not produced. This vintage will also not be released en Primeur but held back until 2016.

      Farr Vintners, March 2015

    Floral fragrant the nose is quite light with tangerine freshness the palate richer sweet fruit apricot and candied peel. The honeyed sweetness on the mid palate is balanced by freshness at the back stylish and fragrant this is not a heavyweight but has elegance and charm. 2016-35

    Score: 93/97 Derek Smedley MW, April 2015

    In a very good to excellent year for Sauternes, this was the outstanding wine, as it often is. Picked in four selections between September 5th and October 30th, it had 100% botrytis infection. Exotic, honeyed yet gloriously refreshing, with notes of lemon tart and nutmeg spice, it lingers tantalisingly on the palate.

    Score: 97 Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com, April 2015

    Score: 97 Decanter Magazine, April 2015

Tasting Notes
98
White Bordeaux 2014 Yquem

1 Bottle 150cl £415
  • Rating

    (96 - 98)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    2019 - 2070

    Reviewed by

    Neal Martin

    Issue Date

    30th Apr 2015

    Source

    218, The Wine Advocate

    The Château Yquem 2014 was picked over 9 weeks this year, with one-quarter of the grapes picked prior to 15 September. It delivers 134 grams per liter residual sugar and 7.3 grams per liter tartaric acid, with a pH 3.60. It has a captivating bouquet (I know...I know...what else were you expecting) But it entrances with its pure, wild honey notes mixed with almond and white chocolate scents, bestowed with beguiling delineation and focus. The palate is very poised with the acidity nigh on perfect. Occasionally an Yquem only reveals its components parts at this early juncture, necessitates conjecture. However the 2014 has a sense of harmony and completeness already, as if the élevage is merely there to usher it on to its finished state. There is undeniably great depth here, perhaps less conspicuous than other vintages because of that silver thread of acidity: notes of lemon sherbet, orange zest, shaved ginger and again, a few "flakes' of white chocolate. It is extremely long with tenderness rather than power on the finish. It's not quite up there in the rarefied heights of say, the 2001 or 2009, but it is what we call in the trade, "the business."

Tasting Notes
98
White Bordeaux 2017 Cos d'Estournel Blanc

1 Case 6 75cl £495£460
  • A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, the 2017 Blanc comes sailing out of the glass with bold notes of white peaches, fresh pineapple, lemon tart and lime cordial plus suggestions of honeysuckle, beeswax and musk perfume with a touch of wild sage. Medium-bodied and with a beautiful silky texture, the palate is packed with vibrant stone fruit and tropical fruit flavors, sporting a racy line of freshness, and it finishes long with an invigorating lift. 2020 - 2034

    Score: 94 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate (March 2020), March 2020

    Cos d'Estournel started making this white wine in 2005 from the Goulée vineyard. The 2017 Blanc is composed of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon. It gives beautiful, expressive grapefruit, ripe peach and passion fruit notes with touches of baker’s yeast, powdered ginger, nutmeg and beeswax. Medium-bodied, vibrant, racy and with great finesse, it has a very long citrus and tropical fruit-laced finish. With plenty of structure and intensity, it should age reasonably well.

    Score: 90/92 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate (236), April 2018

    This is a very rich white with sliced, dried mango and apple, as well as cooked apples, candle wax and light vanilla. Full-bodied, layered and intense. Big, rich wine, yet remaining fresh and vivid. Needs time to come together. A blend of 80% sauvignon blanc and 20% semillon. but the semillon really marks the wine. Searing acidity, too. Try after 2021.

    Score: 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, January 2020

    This is going to be a wonderful Cos white with green mangoes, sliced apples and crushed-stone character. Green kiwis, too. Full-bodied and very rich with tension and brightness. Fantastic length. 80% sauvignon blanc and 20% semillon.

    Score: 96/97 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, April 2018

Tasting Notes
94
White Bordeaux 2017 Cos d'Estournel Blanc

1 Case 3 150cl £510£470
  • A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, the 2017 Blanc comes sailing out of the glass with bold notes of white peaches, fresh pineapple, lemon tart and lime cordial plus suggestions of honeysuckle, beeswax and musk perfume with a touch of wild sage. Medium-bodied and with a beautiful silky texture, the palate is packed with vibrant stone fruit and tropical fruit flavors, sporting a racy line of freshness, and it finishes long with an invigorating lift. 2020 - 2034

    Score: 94 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate (March 2020), March 2020

    Cos d'Estournel started making this white wine in 2005 from the Goulée vineyard. The 2017 Blanc is composed of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon. It gives beautiful, expressive grapefruit, ripe peach and passion fruit notes with touches of baker’s yeast, powdered ginger, nutmeg and beeswax. Medium-bodied, vibrant, racy and with great finesse, it has a very long citrus and tropical fruit-laced finish. With plenty of structure and intensity, it should age reasonably well.

    Score: 90/92 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate (236), April 2018

    This is a very rich white with sliced, dried mango and apple, as well as cooked apples, candle wax and light vanilla. Full-bodied, layered and intense. Big, rich wine, yet remaining fresh and vivid. Needs time to come together. A blend of 80% sauvignon blanc and 20% semillon. but the semillon really marks the wine. Searing acidity, too. Try after 2021.

    Score: 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, January 2020

    This is going to be a wonderful Cos white with green mangoes, sliced apples and crushed-stone character. Green kiwis, too. Full-bodied and very rich with tension and brightness. Fantastic length. 80% sauvignon blanc and 20% semillon.

    Score: 96/97 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, April 2018

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2016 Charmes Chambertin

1 Bottle 75cl £275
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 6 75cl £1,075
  • Tasting note: In contrast to many of the wines in the range that are quite expressive, this is actually quite reticent if not downright mute with very ripe but elusive aromas of mocha, plum and spicy cassis. The extremely rich, powerful and concentrated big-bodied flavors possess a suave mouth feel as the sap almost completely buffers the unusually generous but quite serious and long finish. This is a classic Bonnes Mares in terms of its underlying architecture and should require between 15 and 20 years to be at its best.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Clos de Beze

1 Case 12 75cl £2,550
  • The 2017 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a rich, generous bouquet of copious red cherry and wild strawberry fruit tinged with Earl Grey and tobacco. The palate is well balanced with fine, supple tannin and a keen line of acidity. This is precise, not overly complex, but very well proportioned, building gradually toward the grippy yet elegant finish. Excellent. Drink 2022-2040.

    Score: 92/94Neal Martin, vinous.com, January 2019

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bouzereau 2012 Corton Clos des Fietres

2 Case 6 75cl £275
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2011 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes

1 Case 12 75cl £1,050
  • Domaine Château de la Tour
    2011
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 53
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2012 was a "challenging vintage in the Côte de Nuits for a wide variety of reasons up until the 10th of August, but it was even more challenging in the Côte de Beaune. Once we arrived at the 10th of August though it was generally remarkable how quickly the vines recovered and got the fruit ripening process back on track. Before that though the flowering was quite troubled and resulted in a lot of shatter and shot berries. While there was some disease pressure, most notably from mildew, we were able to limit the damage by treating when and how it was necessary. We began picking on the 23rd of September and brought in very clean and phenolically mature fruit and I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality as I never expected it to be as good as it was. As to the wines, they are rich, powerful and very generous yet well-balanced wines that will have that rare ability to give pleasure young but because of the concentration, age for years too. I think that they will surprise a lot of people by how well they age." It seems that Labet rarely misses anymore and 2012 is no exception. The 2011s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2013. See also the Progress Report herein regarding an extensive Château de la Tour vertical. (Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Deep ruby. An intensely floral nose is composed of cool but ripe red pinot, dark currant and plenty of pungent earth scents. There is more size, weight, power and concentration to the imposingly constructed flavors that are both supported and shaped by the tightly wound and extremely firm tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating and hugely persistent finish. This displays terrific potential but it is a robust wine to buy only if you have the wherewithal and patience to wait.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin

1 Case 6 75cl £3,300
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 93-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 69
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane; 900 bottles produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Hints of wood and menthol can be found on the even riper nose that is composed by notes of extract of black cherry, dark raspberry, anise, rose petal and a whiff of earth. Once again there is superb mid-palate density to the opulent yet exceptionally serious and imposingly-scaled flavors that are shaped by a firm core of robust tannins on the hugely long yet impeccably well-balanced finish. Unlike the prior two cuvées that could perhaps be enjoyed in their youth, this is expressly built-to-age and is going to need plenty of it. Impressive.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin

1 Bottle 150cl £925
  • Tasting note: Very generous wood stops just short of being dominant on the red pinot fruit, mocha, forest floor and newly turned earth. There is outstanding concentration to the big-bodied and overtly powerful flavors that brim with dry extract that serves to buffer the very firm but not really robust or especially austere finale. This is certainly a big wine but I don't find the separation that I normally find between this and the old vines cuvée though it may separate more clearly in time.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes

1 Case 6 75cl £895
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2017
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
    Drink: 2032+
    Issue: 77
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2018 had "a very large fruit set so even with our high percentage of old vines, it was critical to control yields because if you didn't, even with the very hot temperatures it was difficult to obtain sufficient phenolic maturity. I began picking my chardonnay on the 4th of September and picked both my Côte de Beaune pinot [sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 78 and 79]. We chose to begin picking the Clos on the 7th of September and picked slowly as the conditions were warm but largely ideal. The fruit was very clean with yields that varied between 35 and 38 hl/ha. The potential alcohols were actually pretty reasonable considering the heat as nothing came in over 14% and most were right at 13.5%. We used 100% whole clusters for the vinifications and the fermentations gave us no particular concerns. The style of the 2018s isn't classic but given how much they have freshened over the course of the élevage, they may well surprise people as to how they evolve over the longer term." The 2017s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2019. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, www.watsonswine.com, Hong Kong).
    Tasting note: Similar wood treatment with a touch of menthol is present on the red berry aromas. There is better mid-palate density to the broad-shouldered and powerful flavors that possess excellent depth and persistence on the balanced and youthfully austere finish where a hint of wood resurfaces. There is much better than average concentration in the context of what is typical for the 2017 vintage though note well that this is presently very backward.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chevillon, Robert 2002 Nuits 1er Cru Chaignots

4 Bottle 75cl £95
  • Tasting note: Here there is a completely different expression as the earth, leather and iron quality plus floral notes dominate the expressive red fruit nose and rich, superbly intense flavors that both coat and stain the palate with buckets of sappy extract. To be sure, this is no model of finesse though it is by no means rustic either but the complexity, quality of material and harmony combine to create a wine of lovely potential.
     

Tasting Notes
89
Red Burgundy Coquard Loison Fleurot 2015 Clos Vougeot

2 Case 6 75cl £820
Red Burgundy de Montille 2014 Vosne 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

1 Case 6 75cl £1,100
  • Tasting note: A discreet application of oak sets off the openly floral and spicy red currant, plum, sandalwood and Asian tea scents. There is impressive mid-palate density to the muscular and notably powerful medium weight plus flavors that seem to be constructed on a firm base of minerality, all wrapped in strikingly persistent finish that is austere but well-balanced thanks to the abundant level of sappy dry extract. Like the Clos du Roi, this is explicitly built-to-age and don't waste your precious bottles by drinking them too young.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2016 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 3 75cl £1,200
  • Tasting note: Deep ruby. Once again there is an exuberant freshness to the nose of plum, violet, peony, spice and earth aromas where a top note of kirsch is present. There is outstanding density and power to the big-bodied and overtly muscular flavors that deliver fine complexity on the caressing, sappy and harmonious finish. This too is lovely and should drink well a bit earlier than it normally does if that's your preference.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Nuits 1er Cru Proces

3 Case 6 75cl £245
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2017 Gevrey 1er Cru Clos Prieur

2 Case 6 75cl £450
  • Cask sample. Scented again like so many of these Drouhin 2017s, scented with dark-red fruit and a stemmy freshness. Peppery, firm, spicy and generous even in its elegant framework. Long and satisfying and fresh. 
    17+/20 Julia Harding jancisrobinson.com (Nov-2018)

Tasting Notes
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2017 Clos de Beze

1 Case 6 75cl £1,790
  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2017
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Apr 10, 2019
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 74
    Note: 40% whole clusters
    Producer note: As is usually the case, I met with Véronique Drouhin who noted that the 2017 growing season "was much less eventful than its 2016 counterpart though this is not to say that we didn't have some drama, mostly from a late April frost scare. And instead of the heavy mildew pressure we endured last year, we did have a significant attack of bud eating caterpillars that cost us some yield. While it's hard to estimate with precision, it was probably around 10% of the potential crop. [Known in Burgundy as mange bourgeons or literally, bud eaters.] Otherwise the season was clement and calm and the healthy yields were able to ripen without difficulty. Despite this the véraison was extended and this made harvesting tricky as each parcel had to be picked precisely when it was perfectly ripe. Thankfully the weather conditions in early September were ideal and just as importantly they held all the way to the end of what was an extended harvest for us. The fruit was super-clean and notably ripe with better volumes in red than white. We used a bit more whole clusters than usual because as I noted the fruit was clean and ripe with good phenolic maturities. One aspect of the 2017s that is worthy of note is how much they changed before and after the malos and I thought that they really improved. Moreover, the malos did not unduly degrade the acidities so there is good freshness and energy to the wines. For us at Drouhin, 2017 produced classically styled reds that are good to very good but I would describe the whites as genuinely great." I agree with Drouhin in terms of her description of the 2017s and overall I found the quality here to be impressive and particularly so among the big houses. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, USA; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: While not quite as aromatically complex as the GE, it's close as this also features a panoply of spice elements along with exceptionally fresh and dense red currant, violet and plum aromas. Interestingly the mouth feel of the middle weight flavors is super-fine, indeed almost lilting and delicate, with a relatively pliant if sneaky long finish. This is lovely if a bit atypical.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 1996 Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles

3 Bottle 75cl £225
  • Domaine Dugat-Py
    1996
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Evocelles"
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
     
    Tasting note: Sauvage, mineral and freshly turned earth aromas merge seamless with the intense black fruit nose that leads to sweet, fine, dense and remarkably long flavors of excellent complexity. This is nothing short of stunning at this level and I highly recommend it though be sure to give it plenty of time, assuming that you can keep your hands off of it!
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Dujac 2009 Bonnes Mares

2 Bottle 75cl £760
  • Tasting note: A remarkably fresh and expressive nose displays high-toned red berry fruit, earth and mineral aromas that give way to firm, serious and equally mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that offer excellent verve on the well-muscled and especially structured finish that seems to go on without end. This positively dazzling effort is not quite old school in basic character though it knocks on the door of it and like several of these grands crus, will need 15 to 20+ years to reach its full prime. A 'wow' and potentially one of the greatest vintages ever for the Dujac Bonnes Mares, which is saying something given this wine's superb track record.

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Faiveley 2016 Nuits St Georges Les Damodes

5 Case 6 75cl £220
Red Burgundy Haisma 2012 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 12 75cl £1,450
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Vosne 1er Cru Chaumes

1 Case 6 75cl £285
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Clos Saint Denis

3 Case 6 75cl £690
  • Tasting note: A tight and while not completely closed, it would be fair to describe as the nose of subtly layered and spicy dark currant aromas as highly restrained. By contrast, there is fine vibrancy and freshness to the silky and focused middle weight flavors that are shaped by fine grained if distinctly firm tannins, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, mouth coating, impressively persistent and austere finish. This may be a Clos St. Denis of finesse but it doesn't lack for power or seriousness.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Mazis Chambertin

1 Case 12 75cl £1,025
  • Tasting note: There is a bit more wood on the fresh and open sauvage-infused nose of both red and dark currant, earth and game hints. There is excellent volume to the very smooth and polished mid-palate of the broad-shouldered flavors that possess plenty of dry extract before culminating in a mineral-inflected, powerful and long finish. This moderately firm effort is supported by tannins that are ripe if borderline rustic. A classic Mazis.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Gevrey Estournelles St Jacques

2 Case 6 75cl £350
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Clos de la Roche -

2 Case 6 75cl £650
  • Tasting note: A pungently earthy nose also offers supporting aromas of gentle wood, spice and both red and dark fruit components. There is excellent richness and body to the large-scaled, mineral-inflected and openly powerful flavors that possess plenty of tannin-buffering dry extract before terminating in a striking long finish. This is a robust and very serious effort that possesses excellent cellaring potential and note well that it will need it as this is presently a bruiser. 93/100
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2014 Morey 1er Cru Clos des Ormes

3 Case 6 75cl £185
  • Tasting note: There is enough wood spice present to remark upon though not so much as to mask the pretty and airy combination of various red berry aromas that are sprinkled with earth and floral nuances. I like the refinement of the round, supple and attractively textured middle weight flavors that are shaped by firm but well-integrated tannins on the solidly persistent and well-balanced finale. In a word, lovely.

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2015 Vosne 1er Cru Suchots

1 Case 3 150cl £450
  • Tasting note: In contrast to the prior two wines this is aromatically much more reserved though aggressive swirling eventually liberates Asian spice box, tea, plum and violet scents. There is fine richness to the very suave and highly seductive medium-bodied flavors thanks to the abundant amounts of dry extract that impart a sappy texture to the lingering and solidly complex finale. This is both classy and stylish and built to reward medium plus-term aging.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Griotte-Chambertin

4 Case 6 75cl £550
  • Tasting note: This is one of the few wines to display noticeable reduction and it's enough to knock down the nose though my score assumes that this will be corrected before it is bottled. There is good richness and vibrancy to the solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess plenty of tannin-buffering dry extract though the palate impression of the finish is still quite firm, all wrapped in a backend that delivers excellent persistence. This is a bit more rough and tumble than one typically sees from a classic Griotte though it does not display any overt rusticity

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Echezeaux

1 Case 6 75cl £760
  • Tasting note: In stark contrast to the fresh, bright and expressive nose that I saw from cask, this has shut down hard and while persistent swirling and plenty air coaxes subtle spice notes as well as plum and red cherry to emerge, it's clear that this is going to require some bottle age before it blossoms. Otherwise there is fine concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate on the delicious, complex, balanced and lingering finish that evidences very firm tannins that impart a notable austerity. A "buy and forget" wine built for the long-term.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Chambolle 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

2 Bottle 300cl £795
  • Tasting note: A spicy and notably floral nose of attractively layered aromas features notes of cassis, black cherry and plum aromas. There is a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the refined medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent complexity, all wrapped in a balanced, lingering and lilting finish. I very much like the finesse and brilliant mouth feel as it's pure silk.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Chambolle 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

1 Case 12 75cl £2,300
  • Tasting note: A spicy and notably floral nose of attractively layered aromas features notes of cassis, black cherry and plum aromas. There is a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the refined medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent complexity, all wrapped in a balanced, lingering and lilting finish. I very much like the finesse and brilliant mouth feel as it's pure silk.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2017 Chambertin

4 Case 3 75cl £900
  • The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru has more amplitude on the nose compared to the Clos-de-Bèze, offering layers of red berry fruit, briar, tobacco and light roasted chestnut aromas. This is beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin on the entry. Like the Clos-de-Bèze, the fruit is a little backward at the moment, though there is substance here. It feels tightly coiled, but the structure and density on the finish suggest that it should develop in bottle. Maybe a little more persistence on the aftertaste would not have gone amiss, though that is the leitmotif of the vintage
    2022-2045

    Score: 92/94Neal Martin, vinous.com, January 2019

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2017 Mazis Chambertin

2 Case 6 75cl £975
  • Tasting note: This is actually quite aromatically similar to the Charmes but with more sauvage character. There is better mid-palate density as well as more obvious size and weight to the larger-scaled flavors that deliver better power and depth on the more structured finish.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 2012 La Grande Rue

1 Case 6 75cl £1,700
  • Domaine François Lamarche
    2012
    La Grande Rue
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
    Drink: 2027+
    Issue: 57
    Producer note: Nicole Lamarche told me that they began picking the 2013 crop "on the 6th of October and there was quite a bit of sorting required and just to be sure we sorted twice as it's hard to be precise in the vineyards. The flowering passed poorly so our yields were down around once again around 30% but at least we weren't hit by hail. There was good phenolic maturity to the fruit and I elected to use around 30% whole clusters, which is about the same amount that I employed in 2012. That said the fruit didn't have the same concentration as it did in 2012 so there was no point in pushing the extraction. Moreover I really wanted to preserve the freshness and silky textures that appeal to me so I limited the number of punch downs. As to the wines they are refreshing and wonderfully transparent as you can really see the differences between one wine and another." Lamarche noted that her 2012s, three of which are revisited below, were bottled in April 2014. (Jeanne-Marie de Champs, www.ds-collection.com, NY, NY is the agent with many regional importers, including Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR, Burgundy Wine Company, www.burgundywinecompany.com, NY, NY, and Glazer's, www.glazers.com, Dallas, TX, PA; Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk and Raeburn Fine Wines, www.raeburnfinewines.com, Edinburgh, all UK; L'Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Hong Kong/China).
    Tasting note: There is just enough wood to notice framing the red currant, black cherry and plum aromas that also display pretty floral and spice notes. There is fine concentration, power and punch to the refined and classy middle weight flavors that possess excellent intensity on the balanced, mouth coating, velvety and beautifully persistent finish. This too will need at least a decade plus of bottle age.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Liger-Belair, Thibault 2010 Corton 1er Cru Renardes

1 Case 6 75cl £480
  • Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
    2010
    Corton-Renardes
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-93
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2022+
    Issue: 45
    Producer note: Thibault Liger-Belair, who is a cousin of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair (see above), told me that 2010 "yielded a small crop but at the same time gave us excellent quality. I began picking on the 24th of September and while there was some sorting work required, it was relatively minor. The fruit had excellent phenolic maturity and good acidities with average pHs. Potential alcohols were strong at between 12.8 and 13.8% and there was basically no chaptalization of any consequence. There was a moderately high incidence of shot berries and in general the skins were quite thick. The berries didn't have a lot of juice in them and between those various factors, yields were definitely significantly lower than they were say in 2009. I did a comparatively soft vinification as there were only 3 total punch downs during the primary fermentation. I relied more on pump overs as the cuvaisons were quite long because as I like to joke that my yeasts were lazy. Because of the high proportion of shot berries there was quite a bit of sugar released during the pressing so there was a material amount of fermentation that occurred in barrel. The wines were pretty difficult to taste before the malos as they were quite strict but afterwards they have improved by the month. I really like my 2010s and believe that they are the best wines that I have ever made. They have everything that I look for in fine pinot noir as there is excellent typicity, elegance, freshness and vibrancy." Thibault Liger-Belair is clearly coming into his own as a winemaker and the wines reflect his growing confidence. This is a domaine to watch as the quality seems to only go from strength to strength. In this same vein, the Liger-Belair '09s have turned out extremely well. Readers should be aware that the Liger-Belair cellars are very deep and particularly cold and thus many of the wines are often strongly reduced. (Vineyard Brands, www.vineyardbrands.com, Birmingham, AL; Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com, UK, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, UK and Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Reduction. By contrast there is excellent verve to the exceptionally rich and impressively intense large-scaled flavors that possess excellent power on the overtly muscular, precise and driving finish. This is quite firmly structured but there is good buffering extract that should allow this well-balanced effort to age gracefully.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Mommessin 2017 Clos de Tart

6 Case 6 75cl £2,300
  • Tasting note: A much more floral-inflected nose is equally fresh and ripe with a broader range of spice elements adding breadth to the pretty red and blue pinot fruit aromas that are trimmed in noticeable if not invasive wood. The caressing and wonderfully vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess better mid-palate density before concluding in a lingering, balanced and much more complex finale. I like the focused drive of the finish; indeed this could aptly be described as a wine that delivers power without weight. I would further note that the 2017 is a relatively elegant example and, like the La Forge, a wine that could be approached on the earlier side, which is to say after 7 to 8 years.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Ponsot 1998 Chapelle Chambertin

1 Case 6 75cl £1,080
  • Tasting note: Richly colored with intensely sweet cherry fruit, medium weight and fairly supple tannins supporting flavors that are trés pinot. The structure here is solid though not particularly dense and definitely not hard. This is good but for relative performance, the Charmes is better. Cellar for 5 to 7 years and 

Tasting Notes
87
Red Burgundy Remoissenet Pere & Fils 2015 Clos Vougeot

1 Case 3 150cl £750
  • Tasting note: The brooding nose is compositionally similar to that of the Charmes-Chambertin but the earth component is more pronounced. The big-bodied and imposingly-scaled flavors exhibit plenty of punch and muscle on the mouth coating, mocha-infused, youthfully austere and strikingly persistent finish thanks to the copious amounts of dry extract. Despite the impressive size and weight this is not a rustic wine though it's certainly going to require patience.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Roche de Bellene 2012 Romanee Saint Vivant

3 Case 3 75cl £925
  • Tasting note: Curiously this is somewhat less expressive than the Richebourg though aggressive swirling does liberate floral, Asian-style spices and cool red berry fruit scents. There is really fine detail to the graceful, intense and lilting middle weight flavors that possess a lovely sense of underlying tension on the mildly austere but hugely persistent finish. A classic Romanée St. Vivant of restraint and refinement.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2016 Gevrey 1er Cru Cazetiers

1 Bottle 75cl £275
  • Tasting note: A markedly sauvage-inflected nose combines ultra-fresh and cool aromas of plum, violet, dark currant and plenty of earth. There is similar size, weight and muscle to the equally stony middle weight flavors that possess a chiseled, youthfully austere and beautifully persistent finish. This is even firmer though the supporting tannins are clearly ripe. Patience advised.

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Tremblay, Cecile 2012 Vosne Romanee Vielles Vignes

[Duty Paid]

4 Bottle 75cl £300
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de la Roche

1 Bottle 75cl £290
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de Beze

1 Bottle 75cl £425
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Gevrey 1er Cru Les Cazetiers

1 Case 6 75cl £725
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Grand Cru Limited Edition Mixed Case

1 Case 7 75cl £2,450
  • One Bottle of each - Chambertin, Mazis Chambertin, Clos de Beze, Bonnes Mares, Clos de la Roche, Clos de Vougeot, Charmes Chambertin

Tasting Notes
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2016 Grand Cru Limited Edition Mixed Case

1 Case 7 75cl £2,750
Red Burgundy Bonneau du Martray 2013 Corton

1 Case 3 75cl £290
  • Domaine Bonneau du Martray
    2013
    Corton
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
    Tasted: Apr 15, 2016
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 62
    Note: from a 1.5 ha parcel in Le Charlemagne
    Producer note: I will have Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière's broader views of the 2014 vintage in Issue 63. With respect to the red Corton, he noted that it was picked between the 17th and 19th of September with yields of around <26 hl/ha, which is around 25% less than is usual. He further noted that the fruit was quite clean as less than 3% of the fruit was eliminated and most of that was due to second generation berries that were not fully ripe. The total cuvaison lasted 18 days though unusually in the context of what was typical for most domaines in 2014, the malos did not finish until August 2015. Note the '13 was revisited below in bottle. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France is the US Agent; Martin Scott Wines (NY, NJ, CT), www.martinscottwines.com, Lake Success, NY, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants (CA, HI), www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA, Vines, www.finevines.com, Chicago, IL, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, www.ndcweb.com, Atlanta, GA, Augustan Wine, www.augustanwine.com, Miramar, FL, C'est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, (DC/VA) Arlington, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, NV/AZ/NM, M.S. Walker, www.mswalker.com, MA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: This is riper than one might imagine for the vintage but importantly it retains a lovely sense of freshness on the brooding and reticent nose of black currant liqueur-like aromas that display background notes of spice, earth and game. There is a seductive mouth feel to the velvety and concentrated medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a dusty and long finish that exhibits a touch of asperity. This is perhaps best described as old school Corton but relatively refined old school Corton.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 6 75cl £950
  • Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
    2010
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Apr 01, 2012
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 46
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a .24 ha mix of terres rouges and terres blanches but with a bit more of the former
    Producer note: Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, noted that 2010 was "an up and down growing season with a difficult flowering that resulted in a very small crop with a very high percentage of shot berries, especially in the Côte de Beaune. We began picking on the 20th of September and picked through the 1st of October. The harvest conditions were very cool so the super clean fruit arrived at the cuverie at much more reduced temperatures than is typical. This allowed for longer and entirely natural cool macerations. The harvest itself though was less stressful than usual for the simple reason that various parcels were ready at different times due to the highly heterogeneous flowering and thus we could methodically organize our harvest regimen. Moreover, thanks to the tiny crop and cool harvest weather we had absolutely no rot pressure so again, we could pick when we chose. By contrast 2009 and 2011 saw everything basically ready at the same time so it was much more difficult to optimize the harvest for each parcel. I did our normal vinification with one exception which is that I opted to use a higher percentage of whole clusters than usual though not for all wines. In fact, particularly in the Côte de Beaune it tended to be a lot or a little but not much in between. We also elected to reduce the percentages of new wood and a rough estimate would be 15 to 30% for the villages wines, 35 to 45% for the minor 1ers, 35 to 55% for the major 1ers and between 55 to 75% for the grands crus. We used one-year old wood for the remainder. As to the wines, they have lots of energy and really speak of their underlying terroirs. They're classic burgundies if you will. As to relative performance, every commune in the Côte de Nuits was excellent though if I had to choose just one, then I would anoint Gevrey as the star. In the Côte de Beaune it wasn't quite so homogenous. The best village in my view was Pommard though Volnay was only just behind. Savigny and Beaune were also both quite good if not exactly at the same level." Proust noted that the reds were bottled in December, 2011 and January, 2012 and most wines were not filtered and none were fined. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Soft wood influence does not materially diminish the lightly spiced and beautifully fresh nose that is composed of red berry fruit, stone hints and earth nuances. The remarkably rich, round and concentrated flavors exude a focused power while coating the palate with impressive reserves of dry extract that also buffer the very firm tannins. This should be excellent in time as there is outstanding intensity yet impeccable balance and length.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze

1 Case 3 75cl £560
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze

3 Case 6 75cl £1,125
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

3 Case 6 75cl £215
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 12 75cl £2,350
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2016 Chambertin

1 Case 6 75cl £1,450
  • (from a 0.8-hectoliter parcel of very old vines close to the forest; one of the two barrels was new): Good ruby-red. Delicate scents of kirsch, violet and bitter chocolate convey an impression of medicinal reserve. Concentrated and penetrating if not particularly expressive today, with its very dark flavors of blackberry and licorice pastille in need of a bit more pliancy. This rather brooding, youthfully imploded Chambertin stands out more for its high pitch than for its depth and complexity. I'm not yet convinced.

    -- Stephen Tanzer(91-94)Stephen Tanzer$410.00Jan 2018

     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2019 Chambertin

[individual owc]

3 Bottle 150cl £495
  • 2019 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Chambertin Grand Cru

    The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru, which comes from the Domaine, has a very sensual bouquet of pure cranberry, raspberry and wild strawberry aromas, plus delicate rose petal scents mixed with rainswept limestone. The medium-bodied palate offers lithe tannins, a cashmere texture and lovely weight and harmony. Impressive structure combined with finesse on the persistent finish. Superb. 

    -- Neal Martin (95-97) Neal Martin 2023 - 2055 Not Available Dec 2020

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2019 Clos de Beze

[individual owc]

5 Bottle 150cl £680
  • Rating

    (93 - 95)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    NA

    Reviewed by

     William Kelley

    Issue Date

    14th Jan 2021

    Source

    January 2021 Week 2, The Wine Advocate

    The 2019 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is destined to be much less controversial than its 2018 predecessor, as Bouchard was able to determine the date of harvest this year. Wafting from the glass with notes of cherries, woodsmoke, dried flowers, licorice and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, bright and tightly wound, with real concentration and a long, precise finish.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2019 Beaune Greves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus

[Due late 2021]

2 Case 12 75cl £1,030
  • Rating

    (92 - 94)+

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    NA

    Reviewed by

     William Kelley

    Issue Date

    14th Jan 2021

    Source

    January 2021 Week 2, The Wine Advocate

    The 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus unwinds in the glass with notes of plums, cassis, loamy soil, black truffle, spices and incense. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with bright acids, ultra-refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish. This is the latest in a series of superb renditions of this cuvée, and it may be the finest of them all.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Cathiard, Sylvain 2008 Romanee Saint Vivant

1 Case 6 75cl £8,750
  • Romanee-Saint-Vivant

    Good medium red. The nose shows a medicinal reserve to the aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, orange zest, spices and minerals. Wonderfully fine-grained, even delicate, on the palate, but with penetrating floral and mineral notes giving the middle palate outstanding energy and finesse. Less open today than the Malconsorts but even more concentrated and persistent. The rising back end offers utterly palate-staining yet incredibly subtle flavors of berries, flowers and minerals. In an ideal world, this would be my everyday drinking wine a decade hence.

    -- Stephen Tanzer94-97Stephen TanzerNot AvailableMar 2010

     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Cathiard, Sylvain 2017 Vosne 1er Cru Malconsorts

1 Bottle 75cl £530
  • Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
    2017
    Vosne-Romanée "Aux Malconsorts"  ♥
    1er Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
    Drink: 2035+
    Issue: 73
    Don't miss! Outstanding 
    Note: from a .74 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines
    Producer note: Not surprisingly, Sébastian Cathiard was more upbeat about the 2017 vintage than he was about 2016, noting that "2016 gave us excellent quality but no quantity yet 2017 gave us both. However, it was necessary to wait to pick because while sugar maturities came in early September, phenolic maturity came much later. As such, I chose to begin the harvest on the 13th of September and there was essentially no sorting required except for leaves or insects. Yields were very good at around 48 hl/ha with solid but not high potential alcohols that came in between 12.5 and 13%. I destemmed all of the fruit and then vinified softly over a total cuvaison period of 23 to 28 days. The malos were all over the place as some finished in April while others didn't finish until August, which is curious in its fashion because there wasn't a lot of malic acid to begin with. Even so, the post-malo pHs were pretty much ideal at between 3.45 and 3.58. As to the wines, I love the style as they're classic Burgundies with excellent freshness and terroir transparency plus they should be accessible earlier than say 2015 and 2016." Cathiard, who presently farms 4.6 ha of vines, was also very happy to report that he has signed a lease agreement for another 3.75 ha. Because certain aspects of the agreement were still being ironed out, he understandably declined to offer specifics but as details become available, I will transmit them to you. Cathiard also noted that his now in-bottle 2016s, four of which were revisited below, were bottled in April 2018. 
    Tasting note: Firm reduction renders this impossible to fairly assess today. Otherwise there is more size, weight and muscle to the big-bodied and more evidently mineral-driven flavors that are almost painfully intense, all wrapped in a gorgeously long finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. However, it is pointless to buy this without the express intention to cellar it as it is very structured.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2013 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin

1 Case 6 75cl £2,450
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2013
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2016
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 61
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane and Labet noted that it was vinified with no sulfur; about 600 bottles will be produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2014 is a "beautiful vintage that produced succulent and refreshing wines that possess excellent maturity levels. The growing season was not without a few challenges but it was certainly easier than either 2012 or 2013. For example we suffered some hail damage in June and while ultimately we were not affected by the Suzukii infestation that doesn't mean we weren't worried about it. The summer was lousy and by the middle of August I began to wonder if we were going to have sufficient maturity levels to make good wines. Near perfect conditions returned right at the end of August, and September was magnificent and ripeness levels spiked rapidly. We began picking on the 24th of September and while there was a bit of sorting required it was less than usual. The fruit was clean and with very thick skins that gave us excellent colors rapidly. I really like the style of the 2014s as they are already pleasurable though they have the mid-palate stuffing and balance to age well." Labet said that there would be no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. Labet noted that his 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2015. (Caveau Selections, www.caveauselections.com, Portland, OR, Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: The oak influence is a bit more subtle though by no means invisible as it suffuses the very spicy plum liqueur-like aromas that are liberally laced with earth, exotic tea and dried floral scents. There is a lush, even opulent mouth feel to the dense big-bodied flavors that possess excellent size, weight and power yet the palate impression is finer, partially because the dry extract enrobes the tannins but also because the tannins themselves are finer on the massively long finish. The level of dry extract present here is simply amazing and this is going to require at least 20 years to realize all of the incredible upside development potential. Flat out terrific!
     

Tasting Notes
96

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