Wine List

Rating

94+

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2019 - 2037

Reviewed by

 William Kelley

Issue Date

30th Apr 2019

Source

Issue 242 End of April 2019, The Wine Advocate

From a bottle disgorged in March 2017, Bollinger's 2007 La Grande Année is showing brilliantly, offering up a superb bouquet of lemon oil, confit citrus, almond paste, iodine, walnut oil and freshly baked bread. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad-shouldered and powerful in this frequently rather slender vintage, with excellent concentration, a deep and tightly wound core and a precise, chalky finish.

There are plenty of projects afoot at Bollinger, as chef des caves Gilles Descotes explained to me during my early April visit—my first in some years to this important Aÿ-based domaine. One of the most important changes is that Bollinger has entirely abandoned the use of herbicides for four years now, an initiative that began with the impulse to rehabilitate their famed red wine monopole, La Côte aux Enfants, and which was gradually rolled out across all their holdings. Their facilities have expanded too, to make space for more barrels to insure a sufficiently abundant supply of wood-fermented base wine from the Special Cuvée in years when Grande Année is also produced. And the still red Coteaux Champennois from La Côte aux Enfants is returning to the range, from 2015 vinified separately from the red wines destined to rosé production, with some whole clusters added to the cuves. Descotes also has been working to better manage Bollinger's gently oxidative style, and while fermentation and maturation in old wood still lends Bollinger its strong and distinctive style, oxygen inputs at other stages in the winemaking process are more carefully controlled, resulting in more consistency and structural tension—a trend exemplified by the brilliant 2008 Grande Année (97+), which I reviewed last month. There's so much more to say about this house, but much of that can wait for an in-depth article in a future issue. For the time being, it's sufficient to note that all these recent releases come warmly recommended.

The wine has an inviting, bright golden hue, and a fine, regular stream of bubbles.
At first the refined nose exudes subtle hints of brioche and sweet spice combining with citrus flavours and floral fragrances.
As the wine warms in the glass, it becomes more powerful and the nose develops complex nuances of toasted nuts, acacia blossom and honeycomb.
The palate is round and creamy supported by notes of fresh fruit.
The structure is opulent, underpinned by fabulous balance. The finish is long and powerful.

Champagne Pol Roger created their Prestige Cuvée in homage to Sir Winston Churchill mindful of the qualities that he sought in his champagne : robustness, a full-bodied character and relative maturity. The exact blend is a closely guarded family secret but it is undeniable that the composition would meet with the approval of the man to whom it is dedicated : "My tastes are simple, I am easily satisfied with the best". Pinot Noir predominates, providing structure, breadth and robustness whilst Chardonnay contributes elegance, finesse and subtlety. Composed exclusively of grapes sourced from Grands Crus Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards which were already under vine during Churchill's lifetime. Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is only made in the very best vintages and is always released later than the other vintage dated Champagnes from Pol Roger, marking Churchill's appreciation for older wines.

Rating

91

Release Price

$350

Drink Date

2011 - 2022

Reviewed by

Antonio Galloni

Issue Date

31st Oct 2011

Source

197, The Wine Advocate

The 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Belle Epoque is a striking Champagne endowed with considerable power and richness in its exuberant fruit. The wine blossoms on the plate with tons of richness and a broad, expansive voice to the fruit that is quite beautiful. A long, creamy finish layered with tropical fruit rounds things out nicely. This is easily one of the most memorable Champagnes I have tasted from Perrier-Jouet in some time. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022.  

Bollinger’s 1998 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is quite pretty and lifted in style. A decidedly feminine VVF, the 1998 is starting to show the first signs of tertiary maturity, so it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.

Score: 93 Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, December 2014

The 2008 Rosé is absolutely gorgeous. Precise, sculpted and lifted throughout, the 2008 offers striking brightness in its red berry and rose petal flavors. The wine gains energy, intensity and focus with time in the glass, yet the overall impression is one of finesse. Readers should expect a taut, chiseled style. Then again, that is 2008.

Sourced in 20 Premier and Grand Crus of the Côte de Blancs and the Montagne de Reims, the 2006 Vintage Brut is a cuvée of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay that was aged for nine years in the 33 meters deep cellar in Epernay. The deep golden-colored wine offers a deep and vinous, very clear and elegant nose of sweet cherries, stewed and baked apples, ripe stone fruits, cinnamon, chalk, brioche, sweet paprika, orangeade and dashes of lemon juice. Full-bodied, rich and round on the palate, this is a creamy textured though pure and highly elegant, firmly structured, powerful and persistent Champagne; it has a noble and rested expression, as well as a long, noble finish. This is midnight Champagne for noble jazz clubs with fine piano music, or to be matched with noble cigars.

Score: 94 Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (223), March 2016

A truly special site, this is a majestic Champagne that has superb darker notes of brulée, roasted almonds and lightly spiced caramel, plus blue fruit aromas, cassis and mineral flecked earth. The palate's really rich and structurally powerful; it has a long and chiseled shape that drives deep and long. Powerful yet supple and curvaceous, seductive texture. A great Champagne.

Score: 95

James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com 14 July 2015

Firm and well-knit, with aromas of spring blossom, smoke, ground anise and clove accenting the subtle richness of almond financier, golden currant and lemon parfait flavors on the creamy palate. Fine and chalky, lingering on the finish. Disgorged November 2013. Drink now through 2025. 1,500 cases made.

Score: 92

Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator Maturity: 2014-202