Wine List

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CSV
Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Case Format Price Note Ratingsort descending
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2016 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 3 75cl £1,350
  • Domaine Comte de Vogüé
    2016
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 90-92?
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2031+
    Issue: 69
    Note: from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the south-west portion of the vineyard
    Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2016 vintage as one that "on the 27th of April had everything necessary for disaster. It had rained that night and then a moderately strong wind cleared the skies of clouds. The cold temperatures and moisture then coated everything in frost, which when the sun rose on the 28th the rays burned all of the incipient vegetation. It was perhaps the worst frost ever recorded in Chambolle yet Morey, which is right next door, was barely touched. Afterwards it required about 3 weeks to see the second generation of growth to appear and thankfully from the beginning of July forward conditions were near perfect which allowed the vines to regroup and make up the lost time in time for the harvest. We began picking on the 24th of September and brought in perfectly clean fruit that was quite ripe, both in terms of sugars but also phenolic maturities. Yields though were another story and it wasn't pretty. We lost 70% overall though the losses were disparate, running from close to 90% in the Chambolle villages parcels, 60 to 70% in Bonnes Mares and Musigny and about 30% in Amoureuses. As a consequence it was necessary to vinify very carefully as it would have been very easy to make tannic monsters due to the thick skins and tiny quantities, in fact to this end I did no punching down for any wine except the Bonnes Mares. As to the wines, incredible freshness is really the hallmark of the 2016 vintage. The fruit profile is mostly red in character and for me the aromatics make me think of May flowers. I really quite like them as they have energy and personality." With the exception of the Bonnes Mares, I found the de Vogüé 2016 to largely mirror the general quality of what I found elsewhere in Chambolle. By contrast I was most impressed with the de Vogüé 2015s and in particular the Musigny; it should eventually prove to be one of the great wines of the vintage. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled between January and March 2017. While there isn't a review for it below, readers should be aware that as of 2015 the Musigny Blanc is once again being declared as such after having been declared as a Bourgogne Blanc since the 1994 vintage. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email david.forman@atlanta.com, GA and C'est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
    Tasting note: Deep ruby. Once again there is an exuberant freshness to the nose of plum, violet, peony, spice and earth aromas. There is outstanding density and power to the big-bodied and overtly muscular flavors that deliver fine complexity though the finish is somewhat drying and a bit short. This showed awkwardly today because while the tannins seem ripe they are rough and somewhat inelegant. This may very well come together but I have at least some concern about that.
     

Tasting Notes
91
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2015 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru

2 Case 12 75cl £3,600
  • Domaine Comte de Vogüé
    2015
    Chambolle-Musigny "1er"  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2030+
    Issue: 69
    Outstanding
    Note: from younger vines Musigny of less than 25 years of age
    Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2016 vintage as one that "on the 27th of April had everything necessary for disaster. It had rained that night and then a moderately strong wind cleared the skies of clouds. The cold temperatures and moisture then coated everything in frost, which when the sun rose on the 28th the rays burned all of the incipient vegetation. It was perhaps the worst frost ever recorded in Chambolle yet Morey, which is right next door, was barely touched. Afterwards it required about 3 weeks to see the second generation of growth to appear and thankfully from the beginning of July forward conditions were near perfect which allowed the vines to regroup and make up the lost time in time for the harvest. We began picking on the 24th of September and brought in perfectly clean fruit that was quite ripe, both in terms of sugars but also phenolic maturities. Yields though were another story and it wasn't pretty. We lost 70% overall though the losses were disparate, running from close to 90% in the Chambolle villages parcels, 60 to 70% in Bonnes Mares and Musigny and about 30% in Amoureuses. As a consequence it was necessary to vinify very carefully as it would have been very easy to make tannic monsters due to the thick skins and tiny quantities, in fact to this end I did no punching down for any wine except the Bonnes Mares. As to the wines, incredible freshness is really the hallmark of the 2016 vintage. The fruit profile is mostly red in character and for me the aromatics make me think of May flowers. I really quite like them as they have energy and personality." With the exception of the Bonnes Mares, I found the de Vogüé 2016 to largely mirror the general quality of what I found elsewhere in Chambolle. By contrast I was most impressed with the de Vogüé 2015s and in particular the Musigny; it should eventually prove to be one of the great wines of the vintage. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled between January and March 2017. While there isn't a review for it below, readers should be aware that as of 2015 the Musigny Blanc is once again being declared as such after having been declared as a Bourgogne Blanc since the 1994 vintage. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email david.forman@atlanta.com, GA and C'est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
    Tasting note: This is equally pretty and even cooler with its airy if slightly riper mix of both red and dark pinot fruit, violet, plum, exotic tea and all but invisible wood nuances. There is excellent volume and punch to the focused and quite powerful medium weight flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel on the even more mineral-inflected finish that goes on and on. Note well however that this palate coating effort is very much built-to-age and is going to need it.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes

1 Case 12 75cl £7,500
  • Note: from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn't include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay

    Tasting note: An openly exotic nose offers glimpses of black cherry liqueur, ginger, Asian-style tea, sandalwood and orange peel along with plenty of floral elements. The tighter and much more mineral-driven big-bodied flavors also possess evident muscle on the powerful and dense yet beautifully refined finish that goes on and on. This is also a bit less structured though with that said, this is going to need at least 15 years to reach its apogee. In sum, this is relatively refined though still a very serious wine.
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Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes

2 Case 12 75cl £8,350
  • Tasting note: While highly complex this is cool to the point of only grudgingly revealing a strikingly layered combination of violets, rose petals, sandalwood, anise, clove, plum and dark currant scents. This is a big and overtly muscular wine with broad-shouldered and admirably concentrated flavors yet for all of the impressive size, weight and volume, the massively long finish is serene, even Zen-like. 2014 is a relatively seductive and forward vintage for this storied wine, and I appreciate that calling a wine "forward" when it will likely need 20 years to fully mature is a relative concept!

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2015 Musigny Vieilles Vignes

1 Case 3 75cl £2,650
  • Tasting note: Deep ruby color. A kaleidoscopically spicy and broad-ranging nose grudgingly reveals notes of red cherry, cassis, plum, violet, Asian-style tea, sandalwood and hoisin. The velvety and mouth coating imposingly-scaled and intense mineral-driven flavors are blessed with seemingly endless reserves of dry extract that coat the palate on the highly seductive finish that delivers fantastically good length on the youthfully austere, backward and immaculately well-balanced finale. This opulent yet very serious effort is also going to require a very long snooze in a very cool cellar but it should be a remarkable Musigny when it finally emerges. I would add that I don't know if this will be potentially one of the all-time great vintages for the de Vogüé Musigny but my guess is that it will at least be in the conversation, which given the historical track record of this wine, is no small compliment.

Tasting Notes
97
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