Domaine de la Vougeraie
Grand Cru Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
Note: from a tiny parcel of .17 ha; 100% whole clusters
Producer note: Sylvie Poillot, who is the general manager of this now 44 ha domaine of which 70% of the production is in red, conducted this year's tasting. She noted that the amount of vines under production grew recently because they bought Maison Alex Gambal. Gambal's vines were already being farmed organically and thus there was no recertification necessary. With respect to the 2018 vintage, Poillot told me that "we began the harvest on the 23rd of August with our young vines. We then picked slowly and deliberately over the next 3 weeks. The fruit was basically spotless with good ripeness levels both in terms of sugars and phenolic maturities. Yields were generous and particularly so in chardonnay. We used variable amounts of whole clusters during the vinifications where we had no particular difficulties. As to the wines, they're certainly ripe but they offer reasonably good freshness and terroir transparency plus they should be approachable on the younger side." I would recommend many of the Vougeraie 2018s as they, when taken as a group, offer excellent quality. While the Musigny is almost always stunning, the Bonnes Mares transcends its usual level plus the portfolio of villages level wines also offer fine quality. (Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, NV/CO/AZ/NM, USA; Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com and Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, both UK; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.co.jp, Japan; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, www.watsonswine.com, Hong Kong/China).
Tasting note: Not surprisingly this is less aromatically expressive today with its elegant and super-fresh if restrained array of various ripe dark berries, violet, lavender, exotic tea and impressive range of spices. There is equally good volume, power and muscle to the full-bodied flavors that brim with minerality on the explosively long and impeccably well-balanced finish. This is a very serious and stunningly good Musigny of lace and grace that is indisputably built-to-age so plenty of patience strongly advised. In a word, magnificent.