Wine List

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Region Producer Vintagesort descending Name Qty Unit Case Format Price Note Rating
Red Burgundy de Vogue 1989 Chambolle Musigny

1 Bottle 75cl £290
Red Burgundy Rousseau 1990 Clos Saint Jacques

1 Bottle 75cl £1,850
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    1990
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques"
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Mar 02, 2019
    Drink: Now+
     
    Tasting note: This was a wine that I was quite curious to try because while I had the good fortune to have enjoyed it several times in the 1990s, it had not come my way since 2001. I'm happy to report that it did not disappoint with its ripe yet airy aromas of sous-bois, spice, earth, game and beautifully well-layered secondary fruit. There is fine richness as well as very good power to the delicious and attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that exhibit equally good layering on the impressively persistent finale. This is not a particularly elegant vintage for the Rousseau CSJ and there remains enough tannin to notice on the slightly warm finish but overall, I found this to have aged out extremely well.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Grivot 1995 Richebourg

2 Bottle 75cl £625
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1995 Romanee Conti

[UK agent]

1 Bottle 75cl £16,000
  • An opulent, spicy, lush, highly floral and powerfully complex nose merges seamlessly with deep, classy, sappy, simply gorgeous, fresh flavors that offer incredible depth and purity of expression. Classy, pure and the length doesn't seem to quit. The 95 isn't an especially big wine and though it's by no means shy, the breadth of flavors and underlying nuance seems endless. If there is a nit, there is just a hint of finishing dryness that disappears with food but a careful taster will notice it. Otherwise, this is extremely impressive and though it can be approached now with extended airing, I would continue to cellar it and there is no question in my mind that it should continue to age effortlessly for years.

Tasting Notes
95
NV La Grande Rue

7 Bottle 75cl £400
NV La Grande Rue

7 Bottle 75cl £350
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 1996 Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles

3 Bottle 75cl £225
  • Domaine Dugat-Py
    1996
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Evocelles"
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
     
    Tasting note: Sauvage, mineral and freshly turned earth aromas merge seamless with the intense black fruit nose that leads to sweet, fine, dense and remarkably long flavors of excellent complexity. This is nothing short of stunning at this level and I highly recommend it though be sure to give it plenty of time, assuming that you can keep your hands off of it!
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1996 Romanee Conti

[UK agent]

1 Bottle 75cl £16,200
  • This is backward to the point of being almost inexpressive though with extended airing, subtle aromas of black fruit, hoisin, spice, underbrush, anise and violets frame understated, refined, elegant and classy flavors of incredible breed and fantastic complexity. This will live for decades and it is so young that it hasn't even begun to reveal what it will ultimately be capable of delivering. And like the 2001 version, the transparency here is nothing short of remarkable. In short, opening a bottle anytime before 2012 will indeed be egregious infanticide and as the drinking window suggests, patience is required, or if need be, at least three hours of in a decanter. Consistent notes.

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1996 Richebourg

[UK agent]

3 Bottle 75cl £2,600
  • Rating

    (93 - 96)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    2005 - 2018

    Reviewed by

    Pierre Rovani

    Issue Date

    31st Aug 1998

    Source

    118, The Wine Advocate

    As is often the case with this youthful wine, the nose was extremely reticent. After considerable coaxing, I had a peek at this offering's deeply ripe dark fruit aromatics. But what a flavor profile! A massive explosion of profound and intense cherries, raspberries, boysenberries, and strawberries coated my palate. It is a medium-to-full-bodied, densely-fruited, and powerful wine that is perfectly balanced and delineated. Projected maturity: 2005-2018.

     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 1996 La Grand Rue

7 Bottle 75cl £480
Red Burgundy Ponsot 1997 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes

1 Bottle 75cl £300
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1999 La Tache

[UK agent]

1 Bottle 75cl £5,650
  • Rating

    100

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    2025 - 2060

    Reviewed by

    Neal Martin

    Issue Date

    30th Apr 2015

    Source

    218, The Wine Advocate

    Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. Having not tasted the La Tâche 1999 since it had been bottled, I was intrigued to see how it was developing. Monumentally, is the correct answer. First and foremost this is a seriously long-term La Tâche that is maturing at a glacial pace. Indeed, I left most in my glass and waited for it to open. An hour later and it was firing on all cylinders. It is blessed with an incredibly intense, powerful nose that loses its broodiness with aeration and eventually unveils a crystalline set of mineral-soaked aromatics that sport a decadent, almost exotic floral note–wilted violets and potpourri. The palate has a quite astonishing structure, but it is more the symmetry that makes this one of the greatest vintages of recent years. It unfolds with daring passion to reveal layers of plush but focused dark plum and cassis fruit that just seem to flow and flow on the never-ending finish. It is a multifaceted, multidimensional masterpiece that really needs another decade in bottle.

    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
    1999
    La Tâche 
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 99
    Tasted: Apr 29, 2017
    Drink: Try from 2024+
     
    Tasting note: Words remain inadequate to describe just how good this wine is as the '99 is a classic La Tâche in every respect with its incredibly pure, marvelously intense Asian spice box nose. There is terrific size, weight and richness to the enveloping flavors of hoisin and pure pinot extract that deliver indescribable complexity on the hugely long finish. The big tannins are completely wrapped in velvet and while they are by no means invisible, they are beautifully well-integrated, indeed the word seamless comes to mind. This is almost certainly destined to become one of the all-time great vintages of La Tâche. Moreover, among the many bottles that I have been blessed to have tried, I have never had one that was anything less than sensational. However, note well that the '99 LT is going to be a long-distance runner so a strategy of cellar and forget is strongly advised, at least for the next decade or so. Multiple, and consistent, notes.

Tasting Notes
100
Red Burgundy Leroy 2000 Clos de Vougeot

1 Bottle 75cl £3,800
  • Domaine Leroy
    2000
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Nov 23, 2019
    Drink: Try from 2022+
     
    Tasting note: (with thanks to Joe Tsai; tasted twice in 2019 with other bottles described below). A mild touch of bricking. An expressive nose is now composed mostly of secondary fruit, floral and spice aromas where nuances of earth and a touch of game are present. The supple, delicious and impressively concentrated big-bodied flavors are supported by plenty of sap on the noticeably ripe, dusty and beautifully complex and lingering finish. For my taste this is close to its apogee but I would suggest holding for another 3 to 5 years. Note that another bottle tasted in 2010 seemed much more advanced than this one and while still very good, it was clearly not as pristine and rated 93 and yet another one tasted in 2016 was like the one described above except that the finish was mildly drying; this example rated 92 points.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Leroy 2001 Musigny

1 Bottle 75cl £33,000
  • One Bottle Number 0231 - Domaine Leroy 2001 Musigny Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97 Burghound
    Drink: Try from 2018+
     
    Tasting note: After ten years this is as stunning as it was when I first tried it and while the fantastically complex nose is actually still on the restrained side, it conveys all of the majesty that it originally did. The rich and and classy but powerful and broad-shouldered flavors are just now beginning to blossom though they retain plenty of upside development potential due to the firm tannins that remain on the gorgeously persistent finish. This is simply stunning Musigny that could be drunk now with pleasure but will offer still more fireworks over the years to come.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2003 Charmes Chambertin

1 Bottle 75cl £495
  • Medium red. Flowers, red cherry and animal fur on the nose. Supple, sweet and elegant; in a rather subtle style, showing less power than the Cazetiers but much easier to taste today. This is Charmes of premier cru weight, but it builds nicely and lingers well on the back end. The tannins here are rather gentle.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 87-89 Stephen Tanzer Not Available Mar 2005

Tasting Notes
89
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2003 Clos de Beze

4 Bottle 75cl £1,750
  • 2003 Armand Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Beze

    Good deep bright red. Enticing aromas of black raspberry, coffee, mocha and sexy oak. Then less exotic than usual for this wine at this early stage of its evolution: saline and savory, with notes of underbrush but not the normal India n spices. Perhaps a bit youthfully tight today. Quite restrained in its sweetness and not yet showing much complexity. Finishes with big, broad tannins and very good length.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 90-94

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2005 Bonnes Mares

1 Bottle 300cl £1,950
  • Tasting note: A notably ripe red and blue berry fruit nose is nuanced by chalk, minerals and abundant spice notes that continue onto the toasty, rich, full and massively powerful flavors that are suave and superbly concentrated, all wrapped in a very Bonnes Mares style finish as this is chewy but not rustic. An impressive wine where the finish doesn't seem to ever end.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Rouget, Emmanuel 2005 Echezeaux

1 Case 12 75cl £12,500
  • A ripe, expressive and airy nose that combines both upper and mid-level register fruit notes that include red pinot, black berry and violet notes trimmed in moderate wood spice as well as natural spice notes of clove and anise that can also be found on the round, rich and beautifully balanced big-bodied flavors that are powerful, long and more stylish than usual. This is a terrific Ech that should be capable of at least a decade's worth of improvement.

    Score: 91/94 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (25), January 2007

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2005 Clos de la Roche

1 Case 12 75cl £14,500
  • Domaine Dujac
    2005
    Clos de la Roche
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Nov 22, 2017
    Drink: Try from 2040+
     
    Tasting note: The surprisingly expressive nose is quite floral and spicy with still completely primary aromas of black cherry, warm earth and a hint of the sauvage. There is excellent richness to the focused, intense, vibrant and well-muscled full-bodied flavors that carry ample authority and punch on the complex, broad and superbly long finish that reflects a hint of mocha. There is real depth of material here and the intensity builds from the mid-palate on back to the explosive if slightly austere finish. This is going to require plenty of patience as another 20+ years will be necessary if you wish to see it at its peak. Tasted thrice recently with consistent results.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2005 Musigny Vieilles Vignes

1 Case 6 75cl £7,750
  • Prepare to be transported. A positively brilliant nose of violet and rose petal shines against a background of intensely spiced extravagant red and black pinot fruit nuanced by hints of earth and stone and this minerality continues onto the surprisingly supple flavors that convey a remarkable sense of energy and power on the almost unbelievably intense, focused and structured finish that seems to go on and on without end. And the '05 VV has what all truly great burgundies have which is that extra dimension of power without weight as this carries terrific punch and power yet delivers that explosiveness with impeccable class and grace. While I am duly mindful of the many legendary wines this domaine has produced (see the database for all vintages reviewed dating to 1919), the 2005 could very well join the list of the all time greats, there is really that much potential here. Whether it will ultimately transcend the heights achieved by the 1919 or the 1949 (among many others) remains an open question, I have zero doubt that 2005 will be a genuinely great vintage for this wine. Brilliance personified and absolutely a 'wow' wine, in fact, this merits a double 'wow'.

Tasting Notes
99
Red Burgundy Comtes Lafon 2005 Volnay-Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru

1 Case 6 75cl £825
  •  

    Domaine des Comtes Lafon

    2005

    Volnay "Santenots Du Milieu"

    1er Cru Red 

    Score: 94

    Tasted: Jun 14, 2015

    Drink: Try from 2025+

     

     

    Tasting note: In magnum format this hasn't really evolved all that much since my original in-bottle review as the nose is perfectly ripe, expressive and wonderfully fresh with its array of deeply pitched cherry, violet and spice-inflected aromas. There is superb volume to the rich, full, sweet and velvety mouth coating flavors that offer outstanding detail and superb depth of material on the strikingly long finish. There is a gorgeously appealing sense of harmony here with really lovely transparency. A great Santenots but note that this will require extended cellar time, particularly in this large format bottling.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 2005 La Grande Rue

2 Case 6 75cl £3,200
  • Tasting note: A hint of menthol adds nuance to the mostly highly-spiced red berry fruit nose that is quite reserved if beautifully complex while leading to sweet, delicious, generous and round medium full flavors that are classy and refined, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and explosive finish. This offers excellent cellar potential and at this early stage the wood, which is normally fairly prominent, is already well integrated but note that this will need every bit of 15 years, perhaps even slightly longer, to arrive at its prime as it's very structured. A really beautiful LGR that showed even a bit better than it had only three weeks earlier as it was given the benefit of an hour's worth of air.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 2005 La Grande Rue

1 Bottle 150cl £1,500
  • Tasting note: A hint of menthol adds nuance to the mostly highly-spiced red berry fruit nose that is quite reserved if beautifully complex while leading to sweet, delicious, generous and round medium full flavors that are classy and refined, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and explosive finish. This offers excellent cellar potential and at this early stage the wood, which is normally fairly prominent, is already well integrated but note that this will need every bit of 15 years, perhaps even slightly longer, to arrive at its prime as it's very structured. A really beautiful LGR that showed even a bit better than it had only three weeks earlier as it was given the benefit of an hour's worth of air.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Mugnier JF 2005 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 6 75cl £8,900
  • Burghound Tasting note: The concentration and intensity has slowly but noticeably been increasing over the last few vintages as the vines begin to achieve a higher average age and it's particularly evident in 2005. Here the nose is unusually expressive rather than its usual brooding character with pretty, even elegant aromas of spicy red pinot and purple fruit and warm earth notes that can also be found on the powerful but detailed, indeed almost nervous flavors that possess excellent precision and a very attractive underlying tension on the explosive finish that delivers flat out incredible length. 2005 is the best vintage for this wine that I've seen since Mugnier took over.

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Maillard 2005 Corton Renardes

11 Bottle 75cl £75£55
Red Burgundy Ponsot 2005 Griotte Chambertin

[repack]

1 Case 6 75cl £2,100
  •  Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin

    Good ruby-red. Sappy, liqueur-like aromas of griotte cherry and black raspberry. Wonderfully intense and concentrated, with a nearly confectionery sweetness to its explosive fruit flavors. Like the Cuvee des Alouettes, this comes across as a bit high-toned and will require careful attention during its final months of elevage But offers great potential.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 92-95 Stephen Tanzer
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2007 La Romanee

[owc]

1 Case 6 75cl £21,500
  • Score: 95/100 - 1cs 6x75 long term in bond 

    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2008 was a "very complicated vintage. The April to June period was reasonably good but July and August were difficult. We began picking on the 27th of September and there was a moderate amount of sorting required. I would estimate our sorting losses at between 5 and 12%, which when coupled with the naturally lower yields of the vintage left us with, on average, 30% less wine than in a normal harvest. This is to say that in 2008 we realized yields of between 19 and 27 hl/ha. Sugars for the grapes that we kept were very good at between 12 and 13%. I did a relatively soft vinification as I reduced the cuvaison by a few days. Extraction though was really no problem as the grapes that we kept had normal skin thicknesses. The new wine had very high levels of malic acid, which definitely has affected the élevage due to the long malos. You had to be very vigilant to make sure that everything was very clean. Normally, we would just add a dose of SO2 but if you're malolactic is still progressing, you risk stopping it. Overall, I really like the vintage as the wines are pure and very transparent." As the scores and comments suggest, the in-bottle '07s have turned out very well, which is to say pretty much consistent with my original expected ranges. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA & TX, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: As it usually is, the nose is positively kaleidoscopic with a wonderful breadth of red and black fruit aromas, violets and Asian spice nuances that continues onto the rich, full and very stylish medium full flavors blessed with impressive amounts of supporting mid-palate sap that relegate the firm tannic spine to the background for the moment before exploding into a youthfully austere and mouth coating finish that seems to go on and on. This is not an especially big La Romanée but like several of its brethren, it's tightly focused, balanced and carries enormous flavor authority.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Roumier, Georges & Christophe 2007 Musigny

1 Bottle 75cl £9,900
  • Tasting note: A gorgeously spicy and expressive, even kaleidoscopic nose exhibits an impressive panoply of varied earth and spice nuances that accompany the ripe black fruit and floral aromas that include both violets and lavender hints that complement to perfection the pure, refined, intense and driving full-bodied flavors blessed with buckets of dry extract that completely buffer the dense but extremely fine tannins and confer a velvety sweetness to the textured and hugely long finish. For all the fireworks going on in this wine, there is the sensation of a Zen-like calm. Simply wonderful and a wine of unmistakable class.
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2008 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc

1 Bottle 300cl £375
  • Tasting note: A very subtle reductive character knocks down the expressiveness of the lemon and pretty white flower aromas so I would strongly suggest decanting this for 20 to 30 minutes first. The detailed, pure and lightly mineral-driven flavors possess really lovely balance and fine length. If there is a nit it is that this doesn't possess the complexity of the best 1ers here though the track record of this wine is such that I wouldn't bet against it developing materially more complexity in the bottle.

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2008 La Romanee

[owc]

1 Case 6 75cl £22,500
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2008
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jun 11, 2015
    Drink: Try from 2023+
     
    Tasting note: This is turning out to be even slightly better than I originally thought with its gorgeously complex, elegant, pure and refined nose that feature ample amounts of spice to the cool red currant and plum aromas. The highly sophisticated and silky textured medium-bodied flavors possess an abundance of dry extract that buffers the dense but fine tannins on the balanced and superbly persistent finish that still exhibits a touch of youthful austerity. This really opens on the finish with simply marvelous breadth and overall this is a magnificent wine of class and indisputable grace. Moreover I would enthusiastically nominate this as one of the wines of the vintage.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2008 La Romanee

[owc]

1 Case 3 75cl £11,250
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2008
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jun 11, 2015
    Drink: Try from 2023+
     
    Tasting note: This is turning out to be even slightly better than I originally thought with its gorgeously complex, elegant, pure and refined nose that feature ample amounts of spice to the cool red currant and plum aromas. The highly sophisticated and silky textured medium-bodied flavors possess an abundance of dry extract that buffers the dense but fine tannins on the balanced and superbly persistent finish that still exhibits a touch of youthful austerity. This really opens on the finish with simply marvelous breadth and overall this is a magnificent wine of class and indisputable grace. Moreover I would enthusiastically nominate this as one of the wines of the vintage.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Arnoux-Lachaux 2008 Vosne 1er Cru Les Suchots

1 Case 6 75cl £1,450
  • Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
    2008
    Vosne-Romanée "Les Suchots" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2011
    Drink: 2016+
    Issue: 41
    Outstanding
    Note: from a .45 ha parcel situated at the very top of the vineyard
    Tasting note: A classic Vosne nose that is ultra spicy, complex, layered and extremely stylish with rich and relatively powerful flavors that possess ample volume and are supported by very finely rendered tannins, a suave mouth feel and excellent length. In a word, terrific.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Lignier-Michelot 2008 Clos de la Roche

1 Case 12 75cl £1,800
  • Note: from a .27 ha parcel, most of which is young vines of 15 years though there is a parcel approximating 15% of the total with <40 years of age
    Producer note: Virgile Lignier told me that 2008 was a vintage where "the saving grace was the north wind, which is also responsible for forming its character, much as it did in 1996 and 2002. As such, it was primarily maturation through evaporation rather than through the more typical heat and light. Having seen this phenomenon before, I waited as long as I could so that my fruit could benefit from what sunshine and luminosity that there was. I began picking on the 2nd of October because I could see that there was no photosynthesis going on and there was nothing to be gained by waiting any longer. Waiting though had its price as it was necessary to eliminate a lot of fruit. In fact, I would estimate my average loss at 30%. Sugars were better than I thought they would be at between 11.5 and 12.5% and I had one parcel at 13%. I limited the chaptalization to no more than half a degree. The '08s are extremely transparent and I was positive that boosting the alcohols would immediately, and permanently, mark the wines. As I did in 2007, I elected to use some whole clusters, which varied between 10 and 20% though for the old vines Morey, it was 30%, the Clos St. Denis saw 50% and for the Charmes-Chambertin, it was 100%. The '08 vintage is not really to my taste but I have to say that it's certainly better than I anticipated that it would be. And in tasting the wines, it's immediately apparent that 2008 respected the hierarchy of appellations as there are big quality differences between each level." Note: Lignier has a small négociant activity and the wines are sold under Maison Virgile Lignier. 
    Tasting note: Like all of these grands crus, this is a very ripe '08 with a layered, elegant and nuanced nose that combines red pinot fruit, oak, warm earth and wet stone notes that seamlessly give way to round, rich and full-bodied flavors that possess a sleek muscularity on the beautifully textured and mineral-driven finish. This is a big wine in the context of the vintage and offers a completely different personality than does the Clos St. Denis.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Echezeaux

1 Case 6 75cl £760
  • Tasting note: In stark contrast to the fresh, bright and expressive nose that I saw from cask, this has shut down hard and while persistent swirling and plenty air coaxes subtle spice notes as well as plum and red cherry to emerge, it's clear that this is going to require some bottle age before it blossoms. Otherwise there is fine concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate on the delicious, complex, balanced and lingering finish that evidences very firm tannins that impart a notable austerity. A "buy and forget" wine built for the long-term.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Bonnes Mares

2 Case 6 75cl £1,250
  • Here the notably ripe nose offers up liqueur-like dark berry fruit aromas that leads to big, rich and overtly bold and still compact large-scaled flavors that evidence obvious muscle and power before culminating in a very firm, intense, explosive and driving finish that delivers outstanding length. This is a formidable wine with dense and mouth coating tannins that will require at least 15 years to fully resolve and 20 would not surprise me. Note that unlike some of these '09s, this is very definitely not for early consumption as it is presently almost aggressively austere.

    Score: 93 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (46), April 2012

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2009 Gevrey Chambertin

1 Case 12 75cl £3,800
  • GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VILLAGES

    The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin is pure silk on the palate. Layers of flavor emerge gracefully from this weightless, totally refined wine. A model of understated elegance, the Gevrey makes a great introduction to the wines of Eric Rousseau. 

    -- Antonio Galloni 90 Antonio Galloni 

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Lignier-Michelot 2009 Morey 1er Cru Faconnieres

2 Case 3 150cl £295
  • Tasting note: A more restrained nose of cassis, plum, violets and earth marries into seductively textured, lacy and ultra-pure flavors that are wonderfully refined, indeed to the point where they possess a silky mouth feel and culminate in a superbly long and punchy finish that is the epitome of finesse. This offers excellent qualit

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2009 La Romanee

1 Bottle 75cl £5,200£4,600
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2009
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 45
    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2010 fashioned "superbly elegant and exceptionally fresh wines but unfortunately there isn't a lot of them. We lost some yield due to the frost but it was mostly limited to the vines at the bottom of La Colombière. The poor flowering though contributed the most to the loss of yield and all told we were down about 30% relative to what we obtained in 2009. I elected to begin picking on the 26th of September and while the fruit was really quite clean, it still required some sorting though no more or no less than usual. I strongly believe in thoroughly sorting everything no matter the vintage as it's the little details that can make a big difference. Potential alcohols were very good if not high and ranged between 12 and 13%. As to the wines, I very much like them as they reflect their individual terroirs clearly. If I had to try to describe 2010 in terms of vintage comparisons, I would say that it is a blend of the styles of 2001 and 2008." As the scores and comments suggest, the now in-bottle '09s have also turned out extremely well and a number of them are really quite stunning. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Initially a mild touch of reduction mutes the nose but some aggressive swirling quickly releases a kaleidoscopically broad range of spice nuances that add real breadth to the ultra-elegant, ripe and quite pure aromas of red pinot, plum and cassis that precede the rich, full and silky medium-bodied flavors that are discreet yet powerful and superbly persistent. This is an exceptionally stylish and classy wine that is supported by ultra-fine tannins and the hallmark finishing austerity. While the '09 La Romanée is essentially a wine of finesse it doesn't mean that it isn't built to age because it more assuredly is, indeed it will require at least 20 years to arrive at its peak.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2009 Clos Saint Jacques

1 Case 6 75cl £6,500
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2009
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1er
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2024+
    Issue: 45
    Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 80% new wood
    Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: Discreet but not invisible wood spice adds breadth to the otherwise perfumed, elegant and ultra-pure stone-infused red berry fruit nose that is also quite fresh within the context of the vintage. The detailed and strikingly intense medium-bodied flavors exude dry extract that effectively pushes the firm tannic spine to the background on the palate staining and massively long finish. This powerful effort is a potentially a great Clos St. Jacques that rivals its 2005 counterpart at the same stage of its development.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2009 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

1 Case 6 75cl £4,500
  • Drink: 2021+
    Don't miss! Outstanding
    Tasting note: An extremely fresh and strikingly complex nose speaks of violets, anise, clove and cinnamon on the mélange of red and blue pinot fruit. The detailed and ultra fine middle weight flavors are also intensely mineral-driven and culminate in a posed, harmonious and explosively long finish where an interesting note of mandarin surfaces. A text book Amoureuses.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2010 La Romanee

1 Bottle 75cl £4,800
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2010
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 49
    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2011 was an "exceptionally precocious vintage that not only started early but ended early. I chose to begin picking on the 3rd of September and brought in super clean fruit though there was some sorting work required for under ripe berries, which cost us around 5%. Quantities were down again and I would estimate that they were off between 15 and 20% relative to a normal vintage. One of the really impressive aspects of this vintage is just how ripe the underlying phenolics are even though the potential alcohols were only slightly above average at between 12 and 13%. It was warm during the harvest and the fruit was obviously warm as well when it arrived at the cuverie. As such the fermentations started relatively rapidly. I elected to push the length of the cuvaisons significantly, which is to say that they normally last about 20 days but in 2011 the average was 25. The malos were varied with some finishing early and some late but the post-malo pHs were pretty much textbook at between 3.5 and 3.6. Overall, 2011 is not a great vintage but I like the wines a lot as they have good aging potential plus they will offer a lot of pleasure young." In other news Liger-Belair told me that he acquired the Nuits 1er monopole of La Grande Vigne (it's actually in Prémeaux) which measures 2.21 ha. He will also have some white next year as a .5 ha portion of La Grande Vigne is planted to chardonnay. As the scores and comments suggest, the now in-bottle '10s have also turned out extremely well and a number of them are really quite stunning, in particular the Reignots. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM, Grand Cru Selections, LLC, nedbenedict@gmail.com, NY/NJ, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX, C'est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: This is discreet and reserved with a gorgeously complex nose that offers up notes of violets, cassis, black berry, clove, sandalwood and anise hints. There is a palpable sense of energy to the brilliantly well-delineated, cool and restrained flavors that possess outstanding mid-palate concentration with focused power and a strong mineral component that culminate in a driving and explosive finish. What is interesting here though is that the power is delivered with no apparent weight and the supporting tannins are wonderfully sophisticated. While there is some of the trademark youthful austerity it seems less pronounced in 2010 than in some other recent vintages. A magnificent and perfectly balanced effort of pure silk that should age accordingly and this is undoubtedly one of the best wines in a great vintage.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Vougeraie 2010 Musigny

1 Bottle 150cl £2,850
  • 2010
    Musigny
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2027+
    Issue: 49
    Note: from a tiny parcel of only .17 ha
    Producer note: Winemaker Pierre Vincent described 2011 as having "such an early warm and hot start to the growing season that we originally thought that we might start harvesting around the 20th of August! One of the interesting aspects of the vintage is that the bunches were formed under conditions of hydric stress and thus they were quite small with very good ratios of solids to liquids. A cool, wet and cloudy July and half of August however slowed things down to the point where we actually started picking in the Côte de Beaune on the 31st of August and then we attached the Côte de Nuits on the 2nd of September. While there was some sorting necessary the overall condition of the fruit was very clean and almost as importantly the stalks were very clean too. There was an excellent level of phenolic maturity but with only moderate potential alcohols that averaged around 12%. The acidities were on the below average side and the post-malo pHs came in around 3.65, which is higher than is typical with our wines. Because of the clean stalks and excellent level of phenolic maturity I decided to use about the same percentage of whole clusters this year as I did in 2010, which ranged between 30 and 80%. I did a 21 day cuvaison along with our usual vinification. Despite the fact that the wines are not technically textbook from a sugar and acidity standpoint I really like them as they are very terroir and because they're quite well-balanced they should drink well young plus age well too if that's what our clients want." I have noted several times that Vincent is really pushing the Vougeraie wines in the right direction as I was impressed with the quality of both the '11s and the '10s as both outperform the quality of their respective vintages. (Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, NV/CO/AZ/NM; Martin Scott Wines, www.martinscottwines.com, Lake Success, NY; Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, Ashland, VA; Lion Imports, CA; Martignetti, www.martignetti.com, Boston, MA; Fields, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, UK and Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com, UK).
    Tasting note: A soaring nose of cool, elegantly pure and very fresh aromas of violets, lavender, sandalwood, black cherry, plum and stone are gorgeously spicy. There is terrific intensity to the rich and mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors that brim with dry extract that imparts a velvety and seductive texture to the explosive and hugely long finish. This is very firmly structured and will require the better part of 20 years to realize its full, and considerable, potential. A stunning effort that is completely worthy of the appellation.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2010 Clos de Beze

1 Bottle 75cl £3,100
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2010
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 49
    Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2011 vintage was that "we had almost the same metrological conditions as in 2007. It was not quite as hot but otherwise similar, particularly in that the spring was very dry. The summer weather was not great either and it required a lot of work in the vineyards to ensure good aeration to avoid undue problems with rot. We began picking on the 31st of August and there was a fair amount of sorting necessary though not so much that I was worried about how clean my lees would be. Potential alcohols were in the 12 to 13.2% range, which is perfectly acceptable if not truly excellent. Yields however were down considerable and while they were a bit higher than 2010, the total was still off 25 to 30%. I did our normal vinification where I lowered the temperature to between 13 and 16° C (55 and 61° F) and then allowed the musts to climb when and as they wanted. The malos were all over the place with some of them ending early and others terminating much later. As to the wines, there is more underlying material than we had in 2007, and to my taste, the quality is definitely higher as well. I think that the 2011s should age well, not because they are necessarily all that firmly structured so much as that they are very well-balanced." 2011 is a vintage chez Rousseau where the big boys definitely shined and while the lower level wines are more than respectable, they don't necessarily transcend the vintage. That said, the Chambertin, Bèze, Ruchottes, Clos St. Jacques and Clos de la Roche are all very impressive. Regarding the now in-bottle 2010s, they are absolutely stunning and any and all should be on your shopping lists, but in particular, absolutely do not miss either the Chambertin or the Clos de Bèze as they are utterly brilliant. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerini.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: Very deeply colored, indeed this is the mostly deeply tinted of the Rousseau '10s. A gentle touch of wood offsets the highly complex and ultra-fresh nose that interweaves a superb range of floral, spice and distinctly ripe fruit elements. The seductively textured, detailed, pure and vibrant broad-shouldered flavors display a subtle minerality before terminating in an explosive, powerful and tautly muscled finish that delivers massive length. This is a relatively powerful Rousseau Bèze yet it remains quite refined as the underlying tannins are almost inexplicably fine-grained and like the Clos St. Jacques, it should age effortlessly for years. In sum, this is simply phenomenal.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Clos Saint Denis

3 Case 6 75cl £690
  • Tasting note: A tight and while not completely closed, it would be fair to describe as the nose of subtly layered and spicy dark currant aromas as highly restrained. By contrast, there is fine vibrancy and freshness to the silky and focused middle weight flavors that are shaped by fine grained if distinctly firm tannins, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, mouth coating, impressively persistent and austere finish. This may be a Clos St. Denis of finesse but it doesn't lack for power or seriousness.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Mazis Chambertin

1 Case 12 75cl £1,025
  • Tasting note: There is a bit more wood on the fresh and open sauvage-infused nose of both red and dark currant, earth and game hints. There is excellent volume to the very smooth and polished mid-palate of the broad-shouldered flavors that possess plenty of dry extract before culminating in a mineral-inflected, powerful and long finish. This moderately firm effort is supported by tannins that are ripe if borderline rustic. A classic Mazis.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy de Montille 2011 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens

[oc]

1 Case 3 150cl £350
  • Tasting note: This is also quite restrained with ultra-pure aromas of wet stone, floral hints, sandalwood and very fresh red berry fruit scents. There is a focused power to the robust yet refined medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of supporting sap that helps to buffer the otherwise firm and well-integrated tannic spine on the explosively long, balanced and moderately austere finish. This beauty will also require ample patience.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Bonnes Mares

2 Case 6 75cl £750
Red Burgundy Comtes Lafon 2011 Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses

1 Case 6 75cl £330
  • Lafon's 2011 Monthélie is sweet, supple and seductive. Dark red cherry pit, flowers and spices meld together in a soft, voluptuous wine loaded with tons of appeal. The 2011 offers gorgeous resonance, volume and texture, not to mention considerable pleasure. Dominique Lafon makes more important reds, but I often find myself attracted to the Monthélie for the pure joy it so often delivers. 

    -- Antonio Galloni

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Mortet 2011 Fixin Vieilles Vignes

[Duty Paid]

10 Bottle 75cl £60
  • Domaine Denis Mortet
    2011
    Fixin Vieilles Vignes
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 88
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2017+
    Issue: 53
    Note: from 40 year old vines in the tiny .74 ha vineyard of Champs Pennebaut, which is near the Couchey border for the inveterate map readers among you
    Producer note: Arnaud Mortet observed that the 2012 vintage "suffered through a troubled and extended flowering that was responsible for much of the naturally low yields. The bunches were loose and with tiny berries that allowed the fruit to be super clean at the harvest. I decided to start picking on the 23rd of September and brought in ripe fruit that needed only small amounts of chaptalization and in some cases, none at all. As I have been slowly doing each vintage now, I once again lightened the extraction. I shortened the cool maceration period from 7 days to 5 and did a 21 day total cuvaison. In the same vein I used a bit less new wood as well and it now averages about one-third though that of course varies wine by wine. I completely destemmed in 2012 though I have been thinking about doing some more experimenting with using some whole clusters so we will see going forward. As to the style of the 2012s I think it's the kind of vintage that everyone will like. The wines are ripe but fresh and with a mid-palate succulence that makes them a pleasure to drink." As I commented last year the Mortet 2011s are excellent and now that they are in bottle they confirm the quality that I saw last year. Mortet noted that his 2011s, revisited below, were bottled between January and April, 2013. (Martine's Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, and The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk).
    Tasting note: An adroit application of wood sets off fresh and ripe if somber aromas of dark berries, violets and plum. The very round, suave and supple flavors display both good energy and fine volume before terminating in a balanced and persistent finish that exhibits a bit of youthful Fixin austerity and rusticity.
     

Tasting Notes
88
Red Burgundy Drouhin Laroze 2011 Clos de Beze

[Duty Paid]

1 Case 6 75cl £550
  • Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
    2011
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 49
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949
    Producer note: Philippe Drouhin described the 2011 growing season as having a "very early start with unusually hot and dry days that rapidly caused hydric stress in the vineyards. While June was normal we were still very behind with respect to accumulated rainfall. Well, that problem was rectified and then some by rainy, cool and overcast conditions during much of July and August. The good news is that the last week of August and most of September saw perfect conditions and we were able to harvest carefully and without urgency. The fruit was mostly clean though in certain sectors there was enough botrytis that it required careful sorting to excise. Quantities were again notably less than a normal crop and with 2012 being substantially less, clients aren't going to be happy with their allocations. We are at least partially compensated though by the very fine quality of these vintages and while 2011 is not going to be anyone's candidate for the vintage of the century, it certainly is competitive with 2010." For more offerings from Drouhin-Laroze, see their operation below called Larose de Drouhin. (Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, Atherton, CA, Encore Wine Imports, www.encorewineimports.net, Pleasanton, CA; Bayfield Imports, www.bayfieldimporting.com, Brooklyn, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Fine & Rare Wines, www.frw.co.uk, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, and Anthony Sarjeant, all UK).
    Tasting note: An extraordinarily spicy and complex nose evidences cool, fresh and admirably pure aromas of cassis, red berries and plum. There is a floral note on the remarkably rich, concentrated and extract-rich flavors that really coat the palate on the dusty, long and impressively deep finish. A classic Bèze and well worth considering.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chevillon, Robert 2011 Nuits 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

[Duty Paid]

1 Case 6 75cl £360
  • Domaine Robert Chevillon
    2011
    Nuits St. Georges "Les Vaucrains" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 53
    Outstanding
    Note: from a 1.5 ha parcel
    Producer note: Bertrand Chevillon called the 2012 a "complicated and challenging vintage that in the end gave us both good and bad news. The bad news is that quantities were off between 40 and 50% due to the poor flowering but the good news is that the quality of the raw materials was first rate. Just to provide you with an idea, very generally speaking that are around 100 berries per bunch in a typical vintage but in 2012 there were between 50 and 60. We began picking on the 20th of September and you really couldn't ask for cleaner fruit as there was literally zero rot. Phenolic maturities were excellent and the potential alcohols were very good at around 12.5%. We did our normal vinification and the result is very rich and concentrated wines that should have early appeal but also age very well as there is no reason why they shouldn't." Chevillon noted that the domaine changed its label as of the 2011 vintage so fans should look for a change when those wines appear in the market place. Note I revisited two now in-bottle 2011s and one 2010 below. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, www.kermitlynch.com, Berkeley, CA; A&B Vintners, www.abvintners.co.uk, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, both UK).
    Tasting note: This is very reserved, indeed to the point where the nose is borderline taciturn and requires considerable swirling to reveal the ripe and intensely earthy nose of animale inflected dark berry fruit. The concentrated, powerful and muscular broad-shouldered flavors ooze with an abundance of dry extract that actually causes the very firm tannins to appear more civilized than they really are. Despite the reserve of the nose the austere finish is explosive and the length is excellent.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Bichot, Albert 2011 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Amoureuses Clos Frantin

1 Case 6 75cl £1,000
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Gevrey Estournelles St Jacques

2 Case 6 75cl £350
White Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

3 Bottle 300cl £695
  • Tasting note: This is also quite elegant with its equally spicy nose of honeysuckle, yellow and white orchard fruit and citrus elements. There is a lovely vibrancy to the concentrated and relatively large-scaled flavors that possess good power on the markedly dry and somewhat compact edgy finish. As with the Combettes my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that the finish will flesh out and the dryness will dissipate with time.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Roche de Bellene 2012 Romanee Saint Vivant

3 Case 3 75cl £925
  • Tasting note: Curiously this is somewhat less expressive than the Richebourg though aggressive swirling does liberate floral, Asian-style spices and cool red berry fruit scents. There is really fine detail to the graceful, intense and lilting middle weight flavors that possess a lovely sense of underlying tension on the mildly austere but hugely persistent finish. A classic Romanée St. Vivant of restraint and refinement.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Mugnier JF 2012 Bonnes Mares

1 Bottle 75cl £675
  • The 2012 Bonnes Mares presents an intriguing push and pull between some of the more delicate notes that appear initially and its underlying, restrained power. This is another wine where so much is implied rather than overt. As always, the Mugnier Bonnes Mares is above all else a wine of restraint, although in this vintage, there is plenty of depth as well.

    -- Antonio Galloni 93 Antonio Galloni 2022 - 2042 $455.00 Apr 2015

     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2012 Musigny Vieilles Vignes

1 Case 12 75cl £7,600
  • A gorgeously spicy nose is comprised of liqueur-like dark berry fruit scents that also display plenty of floral influence that includes notes of lavender, violet and, somewhat curiously, honeysuckle. There is outstanding concentration and punch to the seductively textured and marvelously intense big-bodied flavors that are borderline robust as the supporting tannins are dense but refined. I really like the Zen-like sense of harmony to the explosively long finish that really stains the palate. In a word, terrific.

    Score: 94/97Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (53), January 2014

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Morey 1er Cru Clos des Ormes

1 Case 6 75cl £195
  • Tasting note: Barnier indicated that this was not vinified by Jadot. There is a background note of menthol to the pretty and fresh red currant, earth and lightly spicy nose. There is a very supple and refined mouth feel to the satin-textured middle weight flavors that also possess a seductive mouth feel, all wrapped in a balanced finish. This should drink well young.

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Fourrier 2012 Clos Saint Jacques Vieille Vigne

1 Bottle 75cl £575
  • Domaine Fourrier
    2012
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques"  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
    Drink: 2020+
    Issue: 57
    Outstanding
    Note: from .89 ha parcel planted in 1910
    Producer note: Jean-Marie Fourrier told me that 2013 was a "really complicated vintage to manage because it was so wet. The tough part is that the wetter it is the more protection that the vines need but the harder it is to treat them. For domaines like mine that only use contact products it only takes 20 mm of rain to wash them off. When the vineyards are so wet that you can't get mechanized equipment into them then you have to treat manually with the tanks on your back. Let me tell you, that's heavy duty work. The weeds were also a huge problem in 2013 because you would plow and then 3 days later they were back. Weeds and grasses are a mixed blessing because while they can help against erosion and to absorb excess moisture because they can harbor humidity that helps the spread of vine diseases. This was super important because the key to the vintage was to make sure that you had a healthy solar panel of leaves so that adequate photosynthetic activity was going on. With the constant mildew pressure that everyone had it was easy to lose a lot of leaves and thus many vineyards didn't produce sufficiently ripe fruit if you didn't treat precisely when you had to treat. Worse still, even if you treated rigorously that didn't mean that your neighbors did and all it took was a gust of wind in the direction of your vines to contaminate them. In short, the 2013 vintage didn't pardon anything other than perfection in terms of your treatments. We began picking on the 2nd of October and we picked as quickly as we could which is to say 5 days. This was important as well because around the 28th of September the acidities began to fall like a stone and acidities are a natural defense against botrytis. Once this occurred the rot exploded and thus picking rapidly was an imperative. While there was some sorting required it wasn't anything major though this was again as much about respecting the treatment cadence than anything else. Quantities were down a bit but again nothing major. Potential alcohols were in the 11.8 to 12.5% range and nothing was chaptalized above 13%. As to the wines they're classic burgundies that are moderately structured and should age well over the mid-term." I will repeat the advice that I typically give, which is that Fourrier deliberately bottles with high CO2 levels as a partial defense against oxidation and thus if you elect to try an example or two young, be sure to decant for 20 to 30 minutes first. Note that all wines are labeled as Vieilles Vignes. Also Fourrier has substantially expanded his négociant activities so see directly below for those reviews. Lastly Fourrier noted that his 2012s, two of which were revisited below, were bottled in February 2014. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, www.madrose.com, Shekomeko, NY; there are many sources in the UK including A&B Vintners, UK, www.abvintners.co.uk, John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, and Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: A remarkably elegant and exuberantly spicy nose features an airy and cool mix of raspberry, cherry, red currant and plenty of wet stone characters. There is superb intensity to the mineral-driven, pure and ultra-refined middle weight flavors that are shaped by very fine-grained tannins on the moderately austere, balanced, saline and wonderfully persistent finish. A classic Clos St. Jacques of class and grace.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2012 Echezeaux

1 Bottle 75cl £415
  • Domaine Dujac
    2012
    Echézeaux
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
    Drink: 2022+
    Issue: 57
    Note: from the climat Champs Traversin
    Producer note: Jeremy Seysses describes the 2013 vintage as "a very wet vintage that threw its fair share of challenges at us during the growing season. The flowering was troubled and resulted in a high percentage of shot berries which is great for wine quality but not for quantity. Things didn't go well for most of the season though we did have a 30 day window of beautiful weather between the middle of August to the middle of September. Then conditions turned wet again and generally speaking there was rot pressure beginning to build. We waited a bit longer than many of our neighbors and didn't begin picking until the 7th of October and continued through to the 13th. As a whole the fruit was pretty clean though some sectors required more sorting than others. Quantities came in slightly lower than what we obtained in 2012 but this isn't true across the board as some parcels gave us more and others less. Potential alcohols were variable as well with a range of 11.4 to 12.4% though I underscore that I'm using a conversion rate of 18 grams of sugar per liter which is a good deal more conservative than the regulatory rate. Acidities are firm without being aggressive and remind me of what we had in 2008. We used a bit less whole clusters than we usually do which is to say on average about 70% though the actual range is from 33 to 100%. As to the wines, my view is that 2013 is a classic Burgundian vintage and at the very least it's a good year. To bracket that comment somewhat I prefer 2013 to 2011 but not to 2010 or 2012." The 2012s, revisited below, were bottled between December 2013 and March 2014. (The Sorting Table, www.thesortingtable.com, Napa, CA (excludes CA and HI) and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA (CA and HI); O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, all UK) .
    Tasting note: An exuberantly spicy and floral nose features a variety of red berry fruit scents laced with hints of sandalwood and Asian spices. There is a silky and restrained mouth feel to the intense, concentrated and detailed flavors that brim with dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the moderately firm tannins on the lingering finale. This is unusually accessible in the context of the Dujac 2012s and should drink well earlier than any of these grand crus.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Fourrier 2012 Griotte Chambertin Vieille Vigne

1 Bottle 75cl £750
94
White Burgundy Roche de Bellene 2012 Montrachet

1 Case 6 75cl £2,150
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Nuits 1er Cru Vaucrains

2 Case 6 75cl £350
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze

3 Case 6 75cl £1,200
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Chambertin

1 Case 6 75cl £14,750
  • Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: This is also ultra-pure and densely fruited with notes of anise, mint, wet stone and a sauvage hint that introduces intensely earthy and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that are rich, powerful, serious and densely concentrated, all wrapped in a silky, palate staining, explosive and colossally persistent finish. This is actually relatively expressive and approachable for a young Cham yet the balance and harmony is present for this to age for decades. A brilliant effort and one of the best vintages ever for this justifiably revered wine.
     

Tasting Notes
98
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Chambertin

1 Bottle 75cl £1,900
  • Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: This is also ultra-pure and densely fruited with notes of anise, mint, wet stone and a sauvage hint that introduces intensely earthy and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that are rich, powerful, serious and densely concentrated, all wrapped in a silky, palate staining, explosive and colossally persistent finish. This is actually relatively expressive and approachable for a young Cham yet the balance and harmony is present for this to age for decades. A brilliant effort and one of the best vintages ever for this justifiably revered wine.
     

Tasting Notes
98
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Charmes Chambertin

2 Case 6 75cl £3,500
  • Tasting note: A beautifully elegant essence of red berry fruit nose enjoys added breadth in the form of spice, earth and gentle floral nuances. I very much like the sense of freshness and vivacity to the medium weight plus flavors that possess fine detail and a hint of minerality that continues onto the silky and saline-inflected finish. This wine has made a great deal of progress over the past 5 vintages or so and 2012 continues that trend.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Clos Saint Jacques

1 Case 6 75cl £5,500
  • **Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 70% new wood**
    There is a deft touch of wood to the reluctant but ultra-elegant essence of red pinot fruit, floral elements and wet stone scents. This is splendidly well-detailed with a terrific sense of underlying tension adding energy to the medium weight flavors that brim with a fine minerality before culminating in a balanced and stunningly long finish. This ageworthy effort is the most refined wine among these four 2012s and dances across the palate. In a word, dazzling.

    Score: 95 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (57), January 2015

    **Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 70% new wood**
    There is a deft touch of wood to the ultra-elegant essence of red pinot fruit, floral elements and wet stone scents. This is splendidly well-detailed with a terrific sense of underlying tension adding energy to the medium weight flavors that brim with a fine minerality before culminating in a balanced and stunningly long finish. This isn't necessarily more complex than either the Clos de la Roche or the Clos des Ruchottes but it is longer and the additional length gives the Clos St. Jacques a slight edge.

    Score: 92/95 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (53), January 2014

    The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques was raised in 80% new oak. It has a very fragrant bouquet with pure raspberry and wild strawberry fruit interlaced with minerals, forest floor and hints of iodine. This premier cru is imbued with a sense of completeness on the nose, as if anything more would be superfluous. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins on the entry. There is real tension here from the very start: supreme focus and a brooding sense of power towards the long, insistent finish with touches licorice on the aftertaste.

    Score: 95/97 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (210), December 2013

    Bright, dark red. Highly perfumed nose combines tangy red berries, rose petal and crushed rock. Silky on entry, then intensely flavored and bracing, delivering urgent, sharply delineated flavors of crushed red fruits, flowers and minerals. Offers outstanding cut and inner-mouth tension, especially in the context of the year. Wonderfully complex and precise on the juicy, endless finish, which leaves the taste buds quivering. Clos Saint-Jacques doesn't get much better than this, and I would not be at all surprised if this wine merited an even higher score as it approaches maturity. 2025 - 2038

    Score: 95+ Stephen Tanzer, vinous.com, March 2015

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Mugneret-Gibourg 2012 Vosne Romanee

3 Bottle 75cl £165
  • Burghound Tasting note: A spicy, elegant and ripe nose is composed of mostly dark berry fruit that is liberally laced with spice and violet nuances. There is a beguiling mouth feel to the polished middle weight flavors that are suave yet restrained, all wrapped in a lingering and complex finish where a touch of wood and austerity are perceptible. This is an excellent Vosne villages that should repay up to a decade of cellar time.Burghound

     

Tasting Notes
90
White Burgundy Bouzereau 2012 Corton Clos des Fietres Blanc

2 Case 6 75cl £330

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