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Region Producer Vintagesort descending Name Qty Unit Case Format Price Note Rating
Red Burgundy Grivot 1995 Richebourg

2 Bottle 75cl £625
Red Burgundy Leroy 1995 Clos de Vougeot

1 Bottle 75cl £2,500
  • Domaine Leroy
    1995
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Apr 15, 2017
    Drink: now+
    Issue: 66
    Tasting note: Still a deep ruby color that displays only a touch of lightening at the rim and that impression of youthfulness is reinforced by the distinctly earthy nose that exhibits moderate secondary development but certainly no sous bois. On the palate this is a fascinating wine of power and intensity yet without weight or heaviness, and the usual austerity of classic Clos de Vougeot is only a background element as the rich, full-bodied, sappy and highly complex flavors are underpinned by supple tannins that have none of the aggressiveness of the typical '95 today. 
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1995 Romanee Conti

[UK agent]

1 Bottle 75cl £16,000
  • An opulent, spicy, lush, highly floral and powerfully complex nose merges seamlessly with deep, classy, sappy, simply gorgeous, fresh flavors that offer incredible depth and purity of expression. Classy, pure and the length doesn't seem to quit. The 95 isn't an especially big wine and though it's by no means shy, the breadth of flavors and underlying nuance seems endless. If there is a nit, there is just a hint of finishing dryness that disappears with food but a careful taster will notice it. Otherwise, this is extremely impressive and though it can be approached now with extended airing, I would continue to cellar it and there is no question in my mind that it should continue to age effortlessly for years.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Verget 1996 Batard Montrachet

2 Bottle 75cl £160
NV La Grande Rue

7 Bottle 75cl £400
NV La Grande Rue

7 Bottle 75cl £350
White Burgundy Comtes Lafon 1996 Meursault Clos de la Barre

3 Bottle 75cl £195
  • Rating

    (90 - 92)

    Release Price

    $62

    Drink Date

    2001 - 2006

    Reviewed by

    Pierre Rovani

    Issue Date

    23rd Feb 1998

    Source

    115, The Wine Advocate

    Displaying candied nuts on the nose, the Meursault Clos De La Barre is an absolutely delicious, expansive, rich, elegant and well-defined wine. Sweet layers of toasty and buttered brioches, hazelnuts, poached pears, spices, and traces of anise are found in this medium-to-full-bodied, velvety-textured, and superbly-balanced wine. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2006. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Dominique Lafon performed more batonnage than usual on his 1996s, "to give them more richness," he said. However, unlike some other vignerons, Lafon abandons the practice when the malos start because he wants his wines to be protected by the carbon dioxide gas that is a by product of a wine's malo-lactic fermentation. Lafon's yields were between 35 and 45 hectoliters/hectare, demonstrating his dedication to quality in this potentially high-yielding vintage.

     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 1996 La Grand Rue

7 Bottle 75cl £400
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 1996 Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles

3 Bottle 75cl £225
  • Domaine Dugat-Py
    1996
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Evocelles"
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
     
    Tasting note: Sauvage, mineral and freshly turned earth aromas merge seamless with the intense black fruit nose that leads to sweet, fine, dense and remarkably long flavors of excellent complexity. This is nothing short of stunning at this level and I highly recommend it though be sure to give it plenty of time, assuming that you can keep your hands off of it!
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1996 Grands Echezeaux

[UK agent]

2 Bottle 75cl £2,000
  • Tasting note: (with thanks to Bruce Khouri). Deep ruby. What was once quite aromatically tight and backward has now begun to open to reveal elegant red and black fruit aromas nuanced by ample spice and warm earth nuances that are followed by middle weight, focused and still somewhat reserved flavors that culminate in a firm but not hard finish and while there is noticeable acidity present, it is not in the aggressive fashion that plagues any number of '96s. Over several hours, this becomes superbly elegant and spicy with outstanding precision and detail and it's clear that the extended aeration is the key to really getting all there is out of the '96 GE at this point. This is still on the way up and in good storage, it should live for decades. Moreover, given how many '96s are showing today, this has to rank among the best of the vintage. Multiple, and consistent, notes.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1996 Romanee Saint Vivant

[UK agent]

3 Bottle 75cl £2,200
  • Rating

    94

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    2016 - 2030

    Reviewed by

    Neal Martin

    Issue Date

    30th Dec 2016

    Source

    228, The Wine Advocate

    The 1996 Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru continues to be an absolutely delightful wine from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and puts to rest memories of a sub-par bottle tasted blind several years ago. Now two decades old, it retains a healthy color with little sign of ageing. The bouquet is fresh and vital, angular at first yet seeming to gain harmony with each swirl of the glass. It is not intense, but prioritizes clarity and tension over power. Dark berry fruit emerge first, briary and Vervain tea, an underlying mineralité eventually coming forth. The palate is very well balanced, quite linear and certainly not flamboyant or flattering. It makes you, the taster, work to seek out its nuances, its energy and refinement. Hints of black cherry intermingle with a marine-like undertow that governs that finish. It does not posses huge depth and I think Aubert de Villaine makes a more sophisticated wine nowadays, but it remains a joy. Tasted September 2016.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1996 Richebourg

[UK agent]

3 Bottle 75cl £2,600
  • Rating

    (93 - 96)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    2005 - 2018

    Reviewed by

    Pierre Rovani

    Issue Date

    31st Aug 1998

    Source

    118, The Wine Advocate

    As is often the case with this youthful wine, the nose was extremely reticent. After considerable coaxing, I had a peek at this offering's deeply ripe dark fruit aromatics. But what a flavor profile! A massive explosion of profound and intense cherries, raspberries, boysenberries, and strawberries coated my palate. It is a medium-to-full-bodied, densely-fruited, and powerful wine that is perfectly balanced and delineated. Projected maturity: 2005-2018.

     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 1996 Romanee Conti

[UK agent]

1 Bottle 75cl £16,200
  • This is backward to the point of being almost inexpressive though with extended airing, subtle aromas of black fruit, hoisin, spice, underbrush, anise and violets frame understated, refined, elegant and classy flavors of incredible breed and fantastic complexity. This will live for decades and it is so young that it hasn't even begun to reveal what it will ultimately be capable of delivering. And like the 2001 version, the transparency here is nothing short of remarkable. In short, opening a bottle anytime before 2012 will indeed be egregious infanticide and as the drinking window suggests, patience is required, or if need be, at least three hours of in a decanter. Consistent notes.

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Ponsot 1997 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes

1 Bottle 75cl £300
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2000 Musigny Vieilles Vignes

1 Case 6 75cl £3,600
  • Domaine Comte de Vogüé
    2000
    Musigny - Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Apr 24, 2016
    Drink: Now+
     
    Tasting note: An extravagantly spicy and notably ripe yet very fresh nose offers up a very pretty mix of both red and black currant aromas that are beginning to display the initial hints of secondary development while being trimmed in discreet hints of wood and menthol. The beautifully elegant and gorgeously textured flavors exude a lovely minerality before culminating in a rich, round and utterly delicious finish that delivers excellent persistence. This is not especially big or dense as de Vogüé Musigny goes but is tautly muscular and defined. For my taste this has arrived at the very front end of its peak drinkability though I underscore that it should age gracefully for many years to come. Consistent notes.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Leroy 2000 Clos de Vougeot

1 Bottle 75cl £3,800
  • Domaine Leroy
    2000
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Nov 23, 2019
    Drink: Try from 2022+
     
    Tasting note: (with thanks to Joe Tsai; tasted twice in 2019 with other bottles described below). A mild touch of bricking. An expressive nose is now composed mostly of secondary fruit, floral and spice aromas where nuances of earth and a touch of game are present. The supple, delicious and impressively concentrated big-bodied flavors are supported by plenty of sap on the noticeably ripe, dusty and beautifully complex and lingering finish. For my taste this is close to its apogee but I would suggest holding for another 3 to 5 years. Note that another bottle tasted in 2010 seemed much more advanced than this one and while still very good, it was clearly not as pristine and rated 93 and yet another one tasted in 2016 was like the one described above except that the finish was mildly drying; this example rated 92 points.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Dujac 2001 Bonnes Mares

2 Bottle 75cl £750
  • Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2004
    Drink: 2011-20+
    Issue: 13
    Producer note: Jacques Seysses commented that he believes 2001 is "a very good vintage" but cautioned that it can be variable because "it was very easy to extract color and the various dry extract components so undoubtedly some growers will have extracted too much tannin". Seysses also noted that sugars were good, essentially coming in between 12 and 12.5% with solid pHs and yields in the 45 hl/ha range for villages wines and about 40 hl/ha for the grands crus. The malos were deliberately delayed because slower malos allow for the use of less SO2. Overall, Seysses said that he much prefers 2001 to 2000. (Wilson-Daniels Ltd., St. Helena, California).
    In Issue 5, I provided a bit of background regarding the small négociant operation that Jeremy Seysses directs. He noted that they had changed several of their grape sources but overall they are pleased with the progress they have made persuading growers to alter their viticultural approach in search of higher quality. Moreover, word of the small operation has spread and several other growers have called expressing interest in working with the Seysses so the range of appellations may grow in the future. The Fils et Père wines are made slightly differently than their Domaine counterparts as there is some destemming (between 0 and 50%) with slightly less new oak (50 to 60%). The quality of these wines is terrific but especially so given that they are from purchased grapes and all from villages level appellations.
    Tasting note: Austere, backward and brooding nose of red and black fruit, crushed herbs and a touch of earth and leather with full, complex, driving, muscular and very powerful flavors that are more linear and direct in character than either the Clos de la Roche or the Echézeaux and possess outstanding persistence. This is solidly structured yet not hard but it will require every bit of a decade to begin drinking well and it should age gracefully for years. In a word, gorgeous.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2003 Charmes Chambertin

1 Bottle 75cl £495
  • Medium red. Flowers, red cherry and animal fur on the nose. Supple, sweet and elegant; in a rather subtle style, showing less power than the Cazetiers but much easier to taste today. This is Charmes of premier cru weight, but it builds nicely and lingers well on the back end. The tannins here are rather gentle.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 87-89 Stephen Tanzer Not Available Mar 2005

Tasting Notes
89
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2005 Bonnes Mares

1 Bottle 300cl £1,950
  • Tasting note: A notably ripe red and blue berry fruit nose is nuanced by chalk, minerals and abundant spice notes that continue onto the toasty, rich, full and massively powerful flavors that are suave and superbly concentrated, all wrapped in a very Bonnes Mares style finish as this is chewy but not rustic. An impressive wine where the finish doesn't seem to ever end.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 2005 La Grande Rue

2 Case 6 75cl £3,400
  • Tasting note: A hint of menthol adds nuance to the mostly highly-spiced red berry fruit nose that is quite reserved if beautifully complex while leading to sweet, delicious, generous and round medium full flavors that are classy and refined, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and explosive finish. This offers excellent cellar potential and at this early stage the wood, which is normally fairly prominent, is already well integrated but note that this will need every bit of 15 years, perhaps even slightly longer, to arrive at its prime as it's very structured. A really beautiful LGR that showed even a bit better than it had only three weeks earlier as it was given the benefit of an hour's worth of air.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 2005 La Grande Rue

1 Bottle 150cl £1,500
  • Tasting note: A hint of menthol adds nuance to the mostly highly-spiced red berry fruit nose that is quite reserved if beautifully complex while leading to sweet, delicious, generous and round medium full flavors that are classy and refined, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and explosive finish. This offers excellent cellar potential and at this early stage the wood, which is normally fairly prominent, is already well integrated but note that this will need every bit of 15 years, perhaps even slightly longer, to arrive at its prime as it's very structured. A really beautiful LGR that showed even a bit better than it had only three weeks earlier as it was given the benefit of an hour's worth of air.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Maillard 2005 Corton Renardes

11 Bottle 75cl £75
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2005 Musigny Vieilles Vignes

2 Case 6 75cl £7,750
  • Prepare to be transported. A positively brilliant nose of violet and rose petal shines against a background of intensely spiced extravagant red and black pinot fruit nuanced by hints of earth and stone and this minerality continues onto the surprisingly supple flavors that convey a remarkable sense of energy and power on the almost unbelievably intense, focused and structured finish that seems to go on and on without end. And the '05 VV has what all truly great burgundies have which is that extra dimension of power without weight as this carries terrific punch and power yet delivers that explosiveness with impeccable class and grace. While I am duly mindful of the many legendary wines this domaine has produced (see the database for all vintages reviewed dating to 1919), the 2005 could very well join the list of the all time greats, there is really that much potential here. Whether it will ultimately transcend the heights achieved by the 1919 or the 1949 (among many others) remains an open question, I have zero doubt that 2005 will be a genuinely great vintage for this wine. Brilliance personified and absolutely a 'wow' wine, in fact, this merits a double 'wow'.

Tasting Notes
99
Red Burgundy Remoriquet 2005 Nuits 1er Cru Les Damodes

1 Case 12 75cl £650
  • Domaine Henri et Gilles Remoriquet
    2005
    Nuits St.-Georges "Les Damodes"
    1er Cru Red barrel
    Score: 88-90
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2007
    Drink: 2013+
    Issue: 25
    Producer note: Gilles Remoriquet was away and his cellar master observed simply that 2005 was the "little brother of 2003." While the 2005s at this address were certainly better than their '04s, with the exception of the Les St. Georges and Malconsorts, I did not find them to be head and shoulders better. Perhaps I caught them at an awkward time though it did not seem that way. In sum, I found good but not exceptional quality here. The two in-bottle examples of 2004 that I tried came in about where the cask samples had suggested they would. (Patrick Lesec Selections, Village Imports, New York, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, UK).
    U.S. readers should note that the Remoriquet wines brought in by Patrick Lesec Selections carry more new oak than the "regular" cuvées. These regular cuvées are brought in under the Domaine de la Charnaye label by Village Imports. I was told that the wines and samples reviewed below are not from the Lesec portfolio.
    Tasting note: Medium register aromas of kirsch and black cherry are trimmed in just a bit of wood spice with big, richer and weightier flavors that are very Nuits in character with a robust power on the long and focused finish.
     

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Ponsot 2005 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes

[repack]

1 Case 6 75cl £4,500£4,250
  • Tasting note: All the superb and dramatic complexity that this displayed from barrel has made it into bottle as an extremely ripe and fantastically broad nose soars from the glass, merging seamlessly into dense, pure rich and powerful flavors that are opulent, sweet and dripping with so much extract and sap that the combination stains and saturates the palate on the hugely proportioned yet impeccably balanced finish that is so long that it doesn't seem possible. Given how many reference standard vintages Domaine Ponsot has produced of the Clos de la Roche over the years, it would be presumptuous to anoint this as the best ever but if it isn't, it will certainly take its rightful place among the very greatest. In sum, a 'wow' wine that makes you shake your head in sheer amazement. However be aware that this is a buy and forget wine as it will require at least 15 years to shed its considerable tannins and it will see 50 years without difficulty.

Tasting Notes
99
Red Burgundy Mugnier JF 2005 Bonnes Mares

1 Case 6 75cl £10,500£9,250
  • Burghound Tasting note: The concentration and intensity has slowly but noticeably been increasing over the last few vintages as the vines begin to achieve a higher average age and it's particularly evident in 2005. Here the nose is unusually expressive rather than its usual brooding character with pretty, even elegant aromas of spicy red pinot and purple fruit and warm earth notes that can also be found on the powerful but detailed, indeed almost nervous flavors that possess excellent precision and a very attractive underlying tension on the explosive finish that delivers flat out incredible length. 2005 is the best vintage for this wine that I've seen since Mugnier took over.

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Ponsot 2005 Griotte Chambertin

[repack]

1 Case 6 75cl £2,250
  •  Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin

    Good ruby-red. Sappy, liqueur-like aromas of griotte cherry and black raspberry. Wonderfully intense and concentrated, with a nearly confectionery sweetness to its explosive fruit flavors. Like the Cuvee des Alouettes, this comes across as a bit high-toned and will require careful attention during its final months of elevage But offers great potential.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 92-95 Stephen Tanzer
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Rouget, Emmanuel 2005 Echezeaux

1 Case 12 75cl £12,500
  • A ripe, expressive and airy nose that combines both upper and mid-level register fruit notes that include red pinot, black berry and violet notes trimmed in moderate wood spice as well as natural spice notes of clove and anise that can also be found on the round, rich and beautifully balanced big-bodied flavors that are powerful, long and more stylish than usual. This is a terrific Ech that should be capable of at least a decade's worth of improvement.

    Score: 91/94 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (25), January 2007

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2005 Chambertin

1 Bottle 75cl £3,500
  • There is still some unabsorbed wood present on the notably ripe yet brooding nose that evidences a superb range of spice elements along with fresh black currant, plum, earth and game nuances. The superbly concentrated and overtly powerful big-bodied flavors are even bigger, richer and more mineral-inflected than those of the imposingly scaled ‘05 Clos de Bèze while delivering a full frontal palate assault on the hugely long finish. The Rousseau style is one of refinement and elegance and that is true even with this most masculine of burgundies yet in 2005 it would be fair to call this wine butch, as it’s definitely built along the lines of a ‘take no prisoners’ style. As one might reasonably intuit from the description, this is nowhere near ready and I would not expect it to be for at least another 15 years and 20+ would not surprise me. A monument in the making. Drink 2030+

    98
    Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, October 2015

    I was frankly quite surprised to find the Chambertin almost as expressive and every bit as broad aromatically as the Bèze as the nose is equally kaleidoscopic if featuring a more deeply pitched set of fruit aromas and more earth. The flavors are bigger if not finer with serious power and weight on the rich, full and driving finish that possesses an exuberant underlying sense of energy, all wrapped in a core of rock solid but ripe and balanced tannins. Like the potential of the Bèze, this too has a chance to ascend as one of the top vintages ever typified by such years as '34, '49, '52, '62, '66 and '91. Arguably the Chambertin of the vintage.

    99
    Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (29), January 2008

Tasting Notes
99
Red Burgundy Ponsot 2006 Grand Cru Assortment

[owc]

1 Case 12 75cl £2,500
Red Burgundy Dujac 2007 Chambertin

1 Case 3 75cl £4,850£4,600
  • Chambertin

    Bright medium red. Aromas of black cherry, red berries, iron and flowers hint at a liqueur-like ripeness. Dense, sweet and deep, but in a rather polite style for Chambertin, with its fruits and flowers to the fore. But this classy, beautifully balanced wine shows a weightless quality that is compelling.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 93 Stephen Tanzer Mar 2010

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Romanee Conti 2007 Grands Echezeaux

3 Bottle 75cl £1,800
  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
    2007
    Grands Echézeaux
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 91
    Tasted: Jan 30, 2010
    Drink: 2019+
    Issue: 37
    Note: 55+ year old vines
    Producer note: Co-director Aubert de Villaine was away on a trip to the Far East during my visit though I discussed his view of the vintage during my 2008 trip, the impressions from which are included below. For the tastings and other details, I met instead with cellar master Bernard Noblet. M. de Villaine described the 2008 growing season as one where the "vegetative cycle started much later than in 2007 as April was both cooler and wetter. The weekend of Rameaux the wind came from the west, which told us that it was going to be a difficult year. [Rameaux is the Sunday before Easter (Palm Sunday) which celebrates Jesus entering Jerusalem on a donkey. There is an old Burgundian saying that the direction of the wind, called the vent de Rameaux, will be the dominant wind of the vintage.] The silver lining in this however was that the poor weather created a high proportion of shot berries, which added a lot of concentration to the musts. The floraison was late compared with other recent vintages and was spread over almost three weeks, which typically, and unfortunately, means that the ripening of the berries would be heterogeneous. The prediction of the vent de Rameaux came true as the wind brought rain storm after rain storm from the west during the months of June, July and August. This of course put heavy pressure on our vineyard team to be out treating, leaf pulling and keeping the bunches well aerated. It was such a delicate balancing act that any missteps would have had severe consequences for the quality of the fruit, particularly from botrytis. By the beginning of September, we were becoming increasingly anxious. Mercifully, the rain stopped completely on the 13th of September and the next day the west wind was replaced by the north wind. The beneficial effects of this steady cool and dry wind served to dry out the vineyards, stopped the botrytis and evaporated excess water from the grapes all while accelerating the maturities. We began picking on the 27th in La Tâche because the vines had come to the end of their vegetative cycle and there was no more photosynthesis occurring. We finished with Echézeaux on the 6th of October. Sorting was seriously important, so much so that we threw out between 30 and 40% of the crop. What we kept though was perfectly ripe and had everything necessary to create wines that will age for years. Yields though were very low, even for us at between 15 and 19 hl/ha. Sugars ranged between 12.5 and 12.8% and we destemmed between 30 and 40% of the fruit. Because the weather was so cool at harvest time, so were the grapes when we deposited them into the fermenters and thus there was a natural cool maceration of 9 to 10 days. The extraction did not come easily so we let the grapes macerate tranquilly to accomplish the extraction by themselves. The total cuvaison lasted from 18 to 20 days, depending on the wine." Bernard Noblet added that at this early stage the '08s reminded him of the 1998s.
    Tasting note: A more densely fruited nose that is intensely floral in character and notably more complex as well intermingles with more subtle spice and earth notes as well as notes of game, jerky and tea, most of which are picked up by the fresh, intense, powerful and moderately well muscled big-bodied flavors that possess an attractive mouth feel and solid finishing depth. This possesses ample dry extract that renders the firm tannins almost invisible at present but I suspect the buffering effect will not last long before this shuts down. This is an understated effort that isn't especially dense or powerful, at least not by the usual superb standards of this wine, but the balance is nigh-on perfect.
     

Tasting Notes
91
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2007 La Romanee

[owc]

1 Case 6 75cl £22,500£21,500
  • Score: 95/100 - 1cs 6x75 long term in bond 

    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2008 was a "very complicated vintage. The April to June period was reasonably good but July and August were difficult. We began picking on the 27th of September and there was a moderate amount of sorting required. I would estimate our sorting losses at between 5 and 12%, which when coupled with the naturally lower yields of the vintage left us with, on average, 30% less wine than in a normal harvest. This is to say that in 2008 we realized yields of between 19 and 27 hl/ha. Sugars for the grapes that we kept were very good at between 12 and 13%. I did a relatively soft vinification as I reduced the cuvaison by a few days. Extraction though was really no problem as the grapes that we kept had normal skin thicknesses. The new wine had very high levels of malic acid, which definitely has affected the élevage due to the long malos. You had to be very vigilant to make sure that everything was very clean. Normally, we would just add a dose of SO2 but if you're malolactic is still progressing, you risk stopping it. Overall, I really like the vintage as the wines are pure and very transparent." As the scores and comments suggest, the in-bottle '07s have turned out very well, which is to say pretty much consistent with my original expected ranges. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA & TX, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: As it usually is, the nose is positively kaleidoscopic with a wonderful breadth of red and black fruit aromas, violets and Asian spice nuances that continues onto the rich, full and very stylish medium full flavors blessed with impressive amounts of supporting mid-palate sap that relegate the firm tannic spine to the background for the moment before exploding into a youthfully austere and mouth coating finish that seems to go on and on. This is not an especially big La Romanée but like several of its brethren, it's tightly focused, balanced and carries enormous flavor authority.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Roumier, Georges & Christophe 2007 Musigny

1 Bottle 75cl £8,750
  • Tasting note: A gorgeously spicy and expressive, even kaleidoscopic nose exhibits an impressive panoply of varied earth and spice nuances that accompany the ripe black fruit and floral aromas that include both violets and lavender hints that complement to perfection the pure, refined, intense and driving full-bodied flavors blessed with buckets of dry extract that completely buffer the dense but extremely fine tannins and confer a velvety sweetness to the textured and hugely long finish. For all the fireworks going on in this wine, there is the sensation of a Zen-like calm. Simply wonderful and a wine of unmistakable class.
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2008 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc

1 Bottle 300cl £375
  • Tasting note: A very subtle reductive character knocks down the expressiveness of the lemon and pretty white flower aromas so I would strongly suggest decanting this for 20 to 30 minutes first. The detailed, pure and lightly mineral-driven flavors possess really lovely balance and fine length. If there is a nit it is that this doesn't possess the complexity of the best 1ers here though the track record of this wine is such that I wouldn't bet against it developing materially more complexity in the bottle.

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Lignier H 2008 Clos de la Roche

1 Case 12 75cl £3,500
  • Producer note: As detailed in Issue 33, Hubert Lignier, seconded by his elder son Laurent, has commenced afresh with new facilities down on the main route between Beaune and Dijon as well as using a small cellar beneath his house in Morey. The situation varies for each wine but in essence the Kellen Lignier team (see Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier below), which consists mostly of Kellen and her régisseur (domaine manager) Dominique Poirotte, is now responsible for all of the shared vines in terms of viticulture. With professional assistance, Kellen does all of the vinification and Hubert has the right to purchase from her a certain amount of unbottled new wine. He also has the right to purchase one-third of the production in the form of grapes from the Clos de la Roche and the old vines Morey 1er, which he then vinifies himself. With respect to the 2008 vintage, Lignier told me that "September saved the harvest. Without it, I'm sure that there would have been very little worth picking. For the parcels that we buy as fruit, we began the harvest on the 29th of September and while there was sorting required, it was less than was the case with 2007. Basically, the fruit was clean but it was necessary to eliminate the unripe berries. When all was said and done, we had a very small harvest of only about 25 hl/ha. I did a long cool maceration of 7 to 8 days but then very little punching down to arrive at a softer overall vinification. In terms of the wines, they're pretty and classic." I confess to being underwhelmed by both the '07 and the '08 vintages here and I'm not sure exactly what happened. I suspect that it relates to the still as yet uneasy working relationship between Hubert and Kellen in the sense that neither has complete control from start to finish. Still, when I compared my scores to the bottled '07s from both domaines, there was limited correlation for the upper level wines (I am obviously not referring to the Clos de la Roche or the old vines Morey 1er) but almost identical correlation for the villages level wines. I don't know what differences might lay in the respective bottling regimes and the timing of same but clearly there are differences in the resulting wines. Moreover, I have been an earnest collector of the Lignier wines since the very early '90s and neither of these vintages resembles the quality level that I am accustomed to seeing. Given that high-level expertise and fine vineyards are indisputably present, I hope things get back on track quickly. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, www.madrose.com, Shekomeko, NY; and Robert Rolls & Co., Tel: 020 76061166, UK).
    Tasting note: A slightly riper and attractively refined nose of red and blue pinot fruit, earth and underbrush gives way to dusty, serious and concentrated flavors that are very firmly tannic and while there is solid length, there is also just a hint of that nagging dryness.
     

Tasting Notes
91
Red Burgundy Arnoux-Lachaux 2008 Vosne 1er Cru Les Suchots

1 Case 6 75cl £1,650
  • Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
    2008
    Vosne-Romanée "Les Suchots" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2011
    Drink: 2016+
    Issue: 41
    Outstanding
    Note: from a .45 ha parcel situated at the very top of the vineyard
    Tasting note: A classic Vosne nose that is ultra spicy, complex, layered and extremely stylish with rich and relatively powerful flavors that possess ample volume and are supported by very finely rendered tannins, a suave mouth feel and excellent length. In a word, terrific.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2008 Gevrey 1er Cru Aux Combottes

1 Case 6 75cl £1,250£1,200
  • Domaine Dujac
    2008
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Aux Combottes" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2011
    Drink: 2020+
    Issue: 41
    Outstanding
    Producer note: Jeremy Seysses described the 2008 vintage as one that had a "great deal of shot berries and this was important for two reasons as it added concentration as well as naturally gave better aeration to the normal-sized bunches. There was a lot of sorting required, both for rot and for under ripe berries. We did a normal vinification of between 10 to 12 days of cuvaison with a relatively high percentage of whole clusters, which ranged from 2/3 to a full 100%. We reduced the amount of new wood slightly though probably not enough to really be detectable in the finished wines. Overall, I am very bullish on the vintage and I think it's going to surprise a lot of people who were influenced by the pre-malo comments." The in-bottle '07s came in about where my ranges suggested that they would and while they are very pretty, and in some cases genuinely excellent, they cannot match the quality of their '08 counterparts when taken as a group. (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, St. Helena, CA and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA for southern California; Morris & Verdin, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, UK, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, UK, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, UK, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, UK and Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com, UK).
    Tasting note: A very stylish and ultra fresh nose offers up classy if restrained red pinot fruit liberally laced with notes of stone and rose petal, both of which can be found on the detailed, pure and lacy middle weight flavors that are complex, focused, mouth coating, crisp and solidly persistent. I like the balance and punch.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2008 La Romanee

[owc]

1 Case 6 75cl £23,500£22,500
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2008
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jun 11, 2015
    Drink: Try from 2023+
     
    Tasting note: This is turning out to be even slightly better than I originally thought with its gorgeously complex, elegant, pure and refined nose that feature ample amounts of spice to the cool red currant and plum aromas. The highly sophisticated and silky textured medium-bodied flavors possess an abundance of dry extract that buffers the dense but fine tannins on the balanced and superbly persistent finish that still exhibits a touch of youthful austerity. This really opens on the finish with simply marvelous breadth and overall this is a magnificent wine of class and indisputable grace. Moreover I would enthusiastically nominate this as one of the wines of the vintage.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2008 La Romanee

[owc]

1 Case 3 75cl £11,750£11,250
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2008
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jun 11, 2015
    Drink: Try from 2023+
     
    Tasting note: This is turning out to be even slightly better than I originally thought with its gorgeously complex, elegant, pure and refined nose that feature ample amounts of spice to the cool red currant and plum aromas. The highly sophisticated and silky textured medium-bodied flavors possess an abundance of dry extract that buffers the dense but fine tannins on the balanced and superbly persistent finish that still exhibits a touch of youthful austerity. This really opens on the finish with simply marvelous breadth and overall this is a magnificent wine of class and indisputable grace. Moreover I would enthusiastically nominate this as one of the wines of the vintage.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Cathiard, Sylvain 2008 Romanee Saint Vivant

1 Case 6 75cl £9,600£9,300
  • Romanee-Saint-Vivant

    Good medium red. The nose shows a medicinal reserve to the aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, orange zest, spices and minerals. Wonderfully fine-grained, even delicate, on the palate, but with penetrating floral and mineral notes giving the middle palate outstanding energy and finesse. Less open today than the Malconsorts but even more concentrated and persistent. The rising back end offers utterly palate-staining yet incredibly subtle flavors of berries, flowers and minerals. In an ideal world, this would be my everyday drinking wine a decade hence.

    -- Stephen Tanzer94-97Stephen TanzerNot AvailableMar 2010

     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2008 Chambertin

1 Case 12 75cl £22,500
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2008
    Chambertin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Apr 19, 2016
    Drink: Try from 2023+
     
    Tasting note: A still mildly toasty nose features remarkably dense yet elegant aromas of deeply pitched yet extremely cool and restrained red and blue fruit aromas that are nuanced by a broad range of earth, game and underbrush hints. There is an utterly beguiling purity to the relatively refined but muscular medium full-bodied plus flavors that are strikingly complex, vibrant and perfectly balanced before culminating in a gorgeously long finish. This is brimming with upside development potential and while it too will require plenty of patience, its class and grace are such that it can be enjoyed now though I would strongly counsel waiting. In a word, magnificent. Tasted thrice recently with consistent notes.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2008 Chambertin

3 Bottle 75cl £1,650
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2008
    Chambertin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Apr 19, 2016
    Drink: Try from 2023+
     
    Tasting note: A still mildly toasty nose features remarkably dense yet elegant aromas of deeply pitched yet extremely cool and restrained red and blue fruit aromas that are nuanced by a broad range of earth, game and underbrush hints. There is an utterly beguiling purity to the relatively refined but muscular medium full-bodied plus flavors that are strikingly complex, vibrant and perfectly balanced before culminating in a gorgeously long finish. This is brimming with upside development potential and while it too will require plenty of patience, its class and grace are such that it can be enjoyed now though I would strongly counsel waiting. In a word, magnificent. Tasted thrice recently with consistent notes.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Echezeaux

1 Case 6 75cl £760
  • Tasting note: In stark contrast to the fresh, bright and expressive nose that I saw from cask, this has shut down hard and while persistent swirling and plenty air coaxes subtle spice notes as well as plum and red cherry to emerge, it's clear that this is going to require some bottle age before it blossoms. Otherwise there is fine concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate on the delicious, complex, balanced and lingering finish that evidences very firm tannins that impart a notable austerity. A "buy and forget" wine built for the long-term.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Bonnes Mares

2 Case 6 75cl £1,250
  • Here the notably ripe nose offers up liqueur-like dark berry fruit aromas that leads to big, rich and overtly bold and still compact large-scaled flavors that evidence obvious muscle and power before culminating in a very firm, intense, explosive and driving finish that delivers outstanding length. This is a formidable wine with dense and mouth coating tannins that will require at least 15 years to fully resolve and 20 would not surprise me. Note that unlike some of these '09s, this is very definitely not for early consumption as it is presently almost aggressively austere.

    Score: 93 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (46), April 2012

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Lignier-Michelot 2009 Morey 1er Cru Faconnieres

3 Case 3 150cl £295
  • Tasting note: A more restrained nose of cassis, plum, violets and earth marries into seductively textured, lacy and ultra-pure flavors that are wonderfully refined, indeed to the point where they possess a silky mouth feel and culminate in a superbly long and punchy finish that is the epitome of finesse. This offers excellent qualit

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Clos de Beze

6 Case 6 75cl £1,250
  • A strikingly complex nose features an intense spiciness to the otherwise ripe, elegant and nuanced red berry liqueur aromas that are in keeping with the equally spicy and intense broad-shouldered and tautly muscular flavors, all wrapped in a mouth coating and very firm finish that delivers stunning persistence. I like the underlying sense of tension that adds vibrancy to the moderately austere and mineral-driven finale. This should be excellent in time.

    Score: 93/95
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2009 La Romanee

2 Bottle 75cl £5,200
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2009
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 45
    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2010 fashioned "superbly elegant and exceptionally fresh wines but unfortunately there isn't a lot of them. We lost some yield due to the frost but it was mostly limited to the vines at the bottom of La Colombière. The poor flowering though contributed the most to the loss of yield and all told we were down about 30% relative to what we obtained in 2009. I elected to begin picking on the 26th of September and while the fruit was really quite clean, it still required some sorting though no more or no less than usual. I strongly believe in thoroughly sorting everything no matter the vintage as it's the little details that can make a big difference. Potential alcohols were very good if not high and ranged between 12 and 13%. As to the wines, I very much like them as they reflect their individual terroirs clearly. If I had to try to describe 2010 in terms of vintage comparisons, I would say that it is a blend of the styles of 2001 and 2008." As the scores and comments suggest, the now in-bottle '09s have also turned out extremely well and a number of them are really quite stunning. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Initially a mild touch of reduction mutes the nose but some aggressive swirling quickly releases a kaleidoscopically broad range of spice nuances that add real breadth to the ultra-elegant, ripe and quite pure aromas of red pinot, plum and cassis that precede the rich, full and silky medium-bodied flavors that are discreet yet powerful and superbly persistent. This is an exceptionally stylish and classy wine that is supported by ultra-fine tannins and the hallmark finishing austerity. While the '09 La Romanée is essentially a wine of finesse it doesn't mean that it isn't built to age because it more assuredly is, indeed it will require at least 20 years to arrive at its peak.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2009 Clos de Beze

1 Bottle 75cl £2,550
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze : Score 96

    Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: This is quite ripe yet the impression is one of freshness with no surmaturité while the aromas reveal an exuberant spiciness to the dense mix of red and black fruit and wet stone aromas. The supple, round and marvelously well-detailed broad-shouldered flavors possess a silky mid-palate brimming with dry extract on the almost painfully intense and massively long mineral-driven finish that displays stunning persistence. The 2009 is an impeccably well-balanced effort in yet another in a long line of great vintages for this storied wine.
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2009 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

1 Case 6 75cl £1,725
  • Tasting note: This is also quite ripe but less overtly so and remains notably more elegant with its expressive nose of honeysuckle, acacia blossom, pear and apple aromas. In accordance with the superior freshness, there is a bit more energy as well with a solid acid spine shaping the delicious and extract-rich medium weight plus flavors that possess excellent density on the vibrant, mouth coating and strikingly long finish. In a word, terrific.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2009 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

2 Case 6 75cl £4,500
  • Drink: 2021+
    Don't miss! Outstanding
    Tasting note: An extremely fresh and strikingly complex nose speaks of violets, anise, clove and cinnamon on the mélange of red and blue pinot fruit. The detailed and ultra fine middle weight flavors are also intensely mineral-driven and culminate in a posed, harmonious and explosively long finish where an interesting note of mandarin surfaces. A text book Amoureuses.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Fourrier 2009 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers Vieille Vigne

2 Bottle 75cl £195
  • Domaine Fourrier
    2009
    Chambolle-Musigny "Les Gruenchers" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red barrel
    Score: 90-92
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2011
    Drink: 2015+
    Issue: 41
    Outstanding
    Note: from .27 ha parcel planted in 1928
    Producer note: The always candid Jean-Marie Fourrier told me that 2009 was a "generous vintage but that doesn't really explain things the way it often does. The reason is that there was a huge percentage of shot berries. I have a sorting screen of only 6 mm and there were plenty of berries that were able to pass through. In some vineyards as much as 50% of the crop was in the form of shot berries. This explains why the '09s seem to be much more concentrated than the yields would otherwise suggest. I began picking on the 17th of September and brought in a very clean crop that ranged in potential alcohols from 12.5 to 13%. The primary fermentation proceeded relatively quickly and the malos were finished early as well, which is to say by April. As to the wines, they are already delicious and deceptively accessible, which means that too many of them are going to be drunk too young. The '09s are going to surprise people in terms of how well they age." I will repeat that Fourrier deliberately bottles with high CO2 levels as a partial defense against oxidation and thus if you elect to try an example or two young, be sure to decant for 20 to 30 minutes first. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, www.madrose.com, Shekomeko, NY; there are many sources in the UK including John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, UK, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, UK, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, UK, Ballantynes of Cowbridge, www.ballantynes.co.uk, UK, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, UK and Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Like the villages Chambolle, this possesses an ultra elegant and pure nose of restrained red pinot fruit, stone and a hint of anise that is also reflected by the generous yet quite precise middle weight flavors that evidence ample mineral influence on the naturally sweet, sappy and impressively enduring finish.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2009 Clos Saint Jacques

1 Case 6 75cl £6,500
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2009
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1er
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2024+
    Issue: 45
    Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 80% new wood
    Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: Discreet but not invisible wood spice adds breadth to the otherwise perfumed, elegant and ultra-pure stone-infused red berry fruit nose that is also quite fresh within the context of the vintage. The detailed and strikingly intense medium-bodied flavors exude dry extract that effectively pushes the firm tannic spine to the background on the palate staining and massively long finish. This powerful effort is a potentially a great Clos St. Jacques that rivals its 2005 counterpart at the same stage of its development.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2009 Chambolle 1er Cru Gruenchers

3 Bottle 75cl £295
  • Domaine Dujac
    2009
    Chambolle-Musigny "Les Gruenchers" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 91
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2021+
    Issue: 45
    Outstanding
    Note: from 50+ year old vines and vinified with 100% whole clusters
    Producer note: Jeremy Seysses described the 2009 vintage as an "excellent vintage that was relatively straightforward. We did have some vineyards that were hit hard by hail, most notably Clos St. Denis, Clos de la Roche, Combottes and Charmes-Chambertin, but thankfully, it was more a question of quantity rather than quality. We picked between the 10th and 17th of September, which is not only a shorter harvest time than usual but also quite quick considering the crop load. Potential alcohols ranged from 12.5 to about 13.2% so there was very little, and in some cases no, chaptalization. We used about 90% of the stems in the vinification and we even moved up the percentage of whole clusters in the newly acquired vineyards where we have typically used less up to this point. We did do some very minor acidifying as the pHs were in the 3.6 range and we wanted to retain all of the freshness possible. As to the percentage of new wood, we used 40 to 45% for the villages wines and increased it proportionately to between 90 and 100% for the grands crus. Overall, I think the 2009 will be extremely popular as the wines are ripe but not too ripe and will be accessible early yet they should age well too." Seysses also observed that viticulturally speaking, the vineyards acquired in 2005 were almost at the same level as the existing vineyards. Note that the '09 Charmes-Chambertin and Beaux-Monts were not presented for review as both were still in malo. The excellent in-bottle '08s came in about where my ranges suggested that they would and as long as you intend to age them for an appropriate period, they should absolutely be candidates for your cellars. (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, St. Helena, CA and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA for southern California; Morris & Verdin, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, UK, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, UK, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, UK, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, UK and Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com, UK).
    Tasting note: An expressive nose offers up very spicy and largely floral-dominated aromas of black raspberry liqueur. The rich, generous and forward middle weight flavors possess good verve as well as ample minerality that give lift to the mouth coating and gorgeously long finish brimming with dry extract. This is one of the more structured vintages of this wine that I have seen as it will require 10 to 15 years to be at its best.
     

Tasting Notes
91
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2010 La Romanee

1 Bottle 75cl £4,800
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2010
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 49
    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2011 was an "exceptionally precocious vintage that not only started early but ended early. I chose to begin picking on the 3rd of September and brought in super clean fruit though there was some sorting work required for under ripe berries, which cost us around 5%. Quantities were down again and I would estimate that they were off between 15 and 20% relative to a normal vintage. One of the really impressive aspects of this vintage is just how ripe the underlying phenolics are even though the potential alcohols were only slightly above average at between 12 and 13%. It was warm during the harvest and the fruit was obviously warm as well when it arrived at the cuverie. As such the fermentations started relatively rapidly. I elected to push the length of the cuvaisons significantly, which is to say that they normally last about 20 days but in 2011 the average was 25. The malos were varied with some finishing early and some late but the post-malo pHs were pretty much textbook at between 3.5 and 3.6. Overall, 2011 is not a great vintage but I like the wines a lot as they have good aging potential plus they will offer a lot of pleasure young." In other news Liger-Belair told me that he acquired the Nuits 1er monopole of La Grande Vigne (it's actually in Prémeaux) which measures 2.21 ha. He will also have some white next year as a .5 ha portion of La Grande Vigne is planted to chardonnay. As the scores and comments suggest, the now in-bottle '10s have also turned out extremely well and a number of them are really quite stunning, in particular the Reignots. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM, Grand Cru Selections, LLC, nedbenedict@gmail.com, NY/NJ, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX, C'est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: This is discreet and reserved with a gorgeously complex nose that offers up notes of violets, cassis, black berry, clove, sandalwood and anise hints. There is a palpable sense of energy to the brilliantly well-delineated, cool and restrained flavors that possess outstanding mid-palate concentration with focused power and a strong mineral component that culminate in a driving and explosive finish. What is interesting here though is that the power is delivered with no apparent weight and the supporting tannins are wonderfully sophisticated. While there is some of the trademark youthful austerity it seems less pronounced in 2010 than in some other recent vintages. A magnificent and perfectly balanced effort of pure silk that should age accordingly and this is undoubtedly one of the best wines in a great vintage.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Mugnier JF 2010 Musigny

1 Bottle 75cl £2,500
  • Tasting note: Here the broad ranging nose is actually similar to that of the Amoureuses but it's both cooler and even more restrained. The penetratingly mineral-driven large-scaled flavors are an exercise in refinement with tremendous depth of material that pushes the very firm tannic spine to the background on the palate staining, linear and stunning intense finish. This magnificent effort is regal and aloof at this point and is conceding little in terms of accessibility yet it's irreproachably well-balanced which should permit this magnificent effort to develop slowly but surely over the next 15 plus years. The 2010 Musigny is yet another in a long line of great vintages of this wine from Mugnier.

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2010 Clos de Beze

1 Bottle 75cl £3,250
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2010
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 49
    Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2011 vintage was that "we had almost the same metrological conditions as in 2007. It was not quite as hot but otherwise similar, particularly in that the spring was very dry. The summer weather was not great either and it required a lot of work in the vineyards to ensure good aeration to avoid undue problems with rot. We began picking on the 31st of August and there was a fair amount of sorting necessary though not so much that I was worried about how clean my lees would be. Potential alcohols were in the 12 to 13.2% range, which is perfectly acceptable if not truly excellent. Yields however were down considerable and while they were a bit higher than 2010, the total was still off 25 to 30%. I did our normal vinification where I lowered the temperature to between 13 and 16° C (55 and 61° F) and then allowed the musts to climb when and as they wanted. The malos were all over the place with some of them ending early and others terminating much later. As to the wines, there is more underlying material than we had in 2007, and to my taste, the quality is definitely higher as well. I think that the 2011s should age well, not because they are necessarily all that firmly structured so much as that they are very well-balanced." 2011 is a vintage chez Rousseau where the big boys definitely shined and while the lower level wines are more than respectable, they don't necessarily transcend the vintage. That said, the Chambertin, Bèze, Ruchottes, Clos St. Jacques and Clos de la Roche are all very impressive. Regarding the now in-bottle 2010s, they are absolutely stunning and any and all should be on your shopping lists, but in particular, absolutely do not miss either the Chambertin or the Clos de Bèze as they are utterly brilliant. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerini.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: Very deeply colored, indeed this is the mostly deeply tinted of the Rousseau '10s. A gentle touch of wood offsets the highly complex and ultra-fresh nose that interweaves a superb range of floral, spice and distinctly ripe fruit elements. The seductively textured, detailed, pure and vibrant broad-shouldered flavors display a subtle minerality before terminating in an explosive, powerful and tautly muscled finish that delivers massive length. This is a relatively powerful Rousseau Bèze yet it remains quite refined as the underlying tannins are almost inexplicably fine-grained and like the Clos St. Jacques, it should age effortlessly for years. In sum, this is simply phenomenal.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Gros, A-F 2010 Richebourg

1 Case 12 75cl £6,500
  • Domaine A.-F. Gros
    2010
    Richebourg
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Apr 01, 2012
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 46
    Note: the Richebourg parcel now totals .6 ha after it was combined with the vines that formerly belonged to Michel Gros, which he agreed to exchange so that he could keep the Vosne 1er Clos de Réas as a monopole of Domaine Michel Gros. The Richebourg vines have been replanted 3 times and they are now 15, 25 and 70 years of age
    Producer note: François Parent (see below), who is married to Anne-Françoise Gros and directs both his domaine and that of his wife's, describes 2010 as a "vintage that had a difficult start but an excellent ending. In this sense it makes me think of vintages from 30 years ago except that here we had a happy ending which wasn't always the case in the late '60s and much of the '70s. We did lose some vines due to the severe frost in December of 2009. In a typical year we lose around 600 vines but in 2010 it was three times that figure. We picked relatively late as we didn't start until the 26th of September. Besides, there would have been no point in waiting any longer as the majority of leaves were already brown at that point meaning that no meaningful photosynthesis was going to occur. The general quality of fruit was super clean and it was nice to see such a high degree of phenolic ripeness at relatively modest alcohol levels, which is to say between 12.5 and 13%. On the negative side however was the tiny yields and we were down between 30 and 40% relative to what we realized in 2009. This was in good part due to the high incidence of shot berries due to the poor flowering and we had more of it in the Côte de Beaune than in the Côte de Nuits. For example, in an average vintage the typical bunch weighs around 160 grams, [roughly 1/3 of a pound] whereas in 2010 it weighed only 60 grams. [about 1/8 of a pound] What I like best about the 2010s is how fine they are, in fact they remind of a blend of 2007 and 2008 in the sense that they have more flesh than the 2007s and riper acidities than the 2008s." (Cellar Door Selections, www.cellardoorselections.com, Columbia, MD, New Castle Imports, www.newcastleimports.com, Myrtle Beach, SC, C&D Wines c/o Fruit of the Vines, Inc., www.cndwines.com, Long Island City, NY; Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, La Réserve and Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: An exuberantly spicy, fresh and ripe nose speaks of red berry fruit liqueur, plum, anise and clove plus discreet mineral nuances. The powerful and sleekly muscular flavors are quite firm yet there is a certain generosity present that finesses any sense of toughness. Indeed this is relatively forward for a young Richebourg. While there is fine depth and length present, this strikes me as more of a very good rather than genuinely outstanding vintage for this wine.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2010 Bonnes Mares

2 Bottle 75cl £850
  • Domaine Dujac
    2010
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2027+
    Issue: 49
    Producer note: Jeremy Seysses described the 2010 vintage as a "vintage of very small production. We had a poor fruit set that was complicated by the winter frost. We had some parcels that were especially hard hit, in particular in our Morey villages parcels where we lost 50% in red and fully 90% in white. There was a very high incidence of shot berries which of course further reduced yields. On the plus side, the small crop definitely saved the harvest in my view because without it we would almost certainly have had other problems and not just an absence of phenolic maturity but also a higher frequency of rot due to the more tightly packed bunches. As it was we had moderate sorting for botrytis and for under ripe berries. What remained though was of excellent quality and as such we vinified with a very high proportion of stems, which I would estimate at about 90% overall but that of course means that a number of wines had fully 100%. As to the wines, I very much like them as they have real freshness and a highly appealing sense of energy. They're ripe, transparent, balanced and there really isn't anything to complain about! For me, 2008 resembles 1993 and 2010 is similar to 2002." As to the now in-bottle 2009s, they have fully justified the considerable confidence I placed in them at this time last year and as the scores and commentaries suggest, they are in fact brilliant wines. (The Sorting Table, www.thesortingtable.com, Napa, CA (excludes CA and HI) and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA (CA and HI); O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, UK, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com, UK, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, UK and Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com , UK).
    Tasting note: A perfumed and ultra-elegant nose that is discreet, pure and very cool gives rise to restrained notes of essence of red pinot fruit, rose petals, lavender, violet, stone and earth. There is outstanding richness and drive to the powerful and seriously intense broad-shouldered flavors that possess superb mid-palate density as there is an impressive abundance of dry extract, all wrapped in a linear and massively persistent and wonderfully refined finish. Despite all the size, weight and taut muscularity, the supporting tannins are actually on the refined side and the 2010 Bonnes Mares will very likely go down as one of the more distinguished vintages for this highly storied wine. Note though that like all of the Dujac 2010s, this will require significant cellar time.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Clos Saint Denis

3 Case 6 75cl £690
  • Tasting note: A tight and while not completely closed, it would be fair to describe as the nose of subtly layered and spicy dark currant aromas as highly restrained. By contrast, there is fine vibrancy and freshness to the silky and focused middle weight flavors that are shaped by fine grained if distinctly firm tannins, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, mouth coating, impressively persistent and austere finish. This may be a Clos St. Denis of finesse but it doesn't lack for power or seriousness.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Mazis Chambertin

1 Case 12 75cl £1,025
  • Tasting note: There is a bit more wood on the fresh and open sauvage-infused nose of both red and dark currant, earth and game hints. There is excellent volume to the very smooth and polished mid-palate of the broad-shouldered flavors that possess plenty of dry extract before culminating in a mineral-inflected, powerful and long finish. This moderately firm effort is supported by tannins that are ripe if borderline rustic. A classic Mazis.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Vosne 1er Cru Chaumes

1 Case 6 75cl £285
Red Burgundy de Montille 2011 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens

[oc]

1 Case 3 150cl £350
  • Tasting note: This is also quite restrained with ultra-pure aromas of wet stone, floral hints, sandalwood and very fresh red berry fruit scents. There is a focused power to the robust yet refined medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of supporting sap that helps to buffer the otherwise firm and well-integrated tannic spine on the explosively long, balanced and moderately austere finish. This beauty will also require ample patience.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Bonnes Mares

2 Case 6 75cl £750
Red Burgundy Comtes Lafon 2011 Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses

1 Case 6 75cl £330
  • Lafon's 2011 Monthélie is sweet, supple and seductive. Dark red cherry pit, flowers and spices meld together in a soft, voluptuous wine loaded with tons of appeal. The 2011 offers gorgeous resonance, volume and texture, not to mention considerable pleasure. Dominique Lafon makes more important reds, but I often find myself attracted to the Monthélie for the pure joy it so often delivers. 

    -- Antonio Galloni

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Mortet 2011 Fixin Vieilles Vignes

[Duty Paid]

10 Bottle 75cl £60
  • Domaine Denis Mortet
    2011
    Fixin Vieilles Vignes
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 88
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2017+
    Issue: 53
    Note: from 40 year old vines in the tiny .74 ha vineyard of Champs Pennebaut, which is near the Couchey border for the inveterate map readers among you
    Producer note: Arnaud Mortet observed that the 2012 vintage "suffered through a troubled and extended flowering that was responsible for much of the naturally low yields. The bunches were loose and with tiny berries that allowed the fruit to be super clean at the harvest. I decided to start picking on the 23rd of September and brought in ripe fruit that needed only small amounts of chaptalization and in some cases, none at all. As I have been slowly doing each vintage now, I once again lightened the extraction. I shortened the cool maceration period from 7 days to 5 and did a 21 day total cuvaison. In the same vein I used a bit less new wood as well and it now averages about one-third though that of course varies wine by wine. I completely destemmed in 2012 though I have been thinking about doing some more experimenting with using some whole clusters so we will see going forward. As to the style of the 2012s I think it's the kind of vintage that everyone will like. The wines are ripe but fresh and with a mid-palate succulence that makes them a pleasure to drink." As I commented last year the Mortet 2011s are excellent and now that they are in bottle they confirm the quality that I saw last year. Mortet noted that his 2011s, revisited below, were bottled between January and April, 2013. (Martine's Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, and The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk).
    Tasting note: An adroit application of wood sets off fresh and ripe if somber aromas of dark berries, violets and plum. The very round, suave and supple flavors display both good energy and fine volume before terminating in a balanced and persistent finish that exhibits a bit of youthful Fixin austerity and rusticity.
     

Tasting Notes
88
Red Burgundy Drouhin Laroze 2011 Clos de Beze

[Duty Paid]

1 Case 6 75cl £550
  • Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
    2011
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 49
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949
    Producer note: Philippe Drouhin described the 2011 growing season as having a "very early start with unusually hot and dry days that rapidly caused hydric stress in the vineyards. While June was normal we were still very behind with respect to accumulated rainfall. Well, that problem was rectified and then some by rainy, cool and overcast conditions during much of July and August. The good news is that the last week of August and most of September saw perfect conditions and we were able to harvest carefully and without urgency. The fruit was mostly clean though in certain sectors there was enough botrytis that it required careful sorting to excise. Quantities were again notably less than a normal crop and with 2012 being substantially less, clients aren't going to be happy with their allocations. We are at least partially compensated though by the very fine quality of these vintages and while 2011 is not going to be anyone's candidate for the vintage of the century, it certainly is competitive with 2010." For more offerings from Drouhin-Laroze, see their operation below called Larose de Drouhin. (Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, Atherton, CA, Encore Wine Imports, www.encorewineimports.net, Pleasanton, CA; Bayfield Imports, www.bayfieldimporting.com, Brooklyn, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Fine & Rare Wines, www.frw.co.uk, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, and Anthony Sarjeant, all UK).
    Tasting note: An extraordinarily spicy and complex nose evidences cool, fresh and admirably pure aromas of cassis, red berries and plum. There is a floral note on the remarkably rich, concentrated and extract-rich flavors that really coat the palate on the dusty, long and impressively deep finish. A classic Bèze and well worth considering.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Musigny

2 Bottle 300cl £2,250
  • Tasting note: Background notes of wood are discernible but stop short of being invasive as they still allow the restrained, cool and pure dark berry fruit and black cherry aromas to shine. Interestingly this is less overtly spicy as the Amoureuses at present though there is a genuinely gorgeous inner mouth perfume to the suave, round and polished middle weight plus flavors that possess plenty of underlying muscle and power on the hugely long, balanced and impressively complex finish. While clearly firmly structured, this is somewhat more forward and approachable than is typical for this wine.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chevillon, Robert 2011 Nuits 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

[Duty Paid]

1 Case 6 75cl £360
  • Domaine Robert Chevillon
    2011
    Nuits St. Georges "Les Vaucrains" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 53
    Outstanding
    Note: from a 1.5 ha parcel
    Producer note: Bertrand Chevillon called the 2012 a "complicated and challenging vintage that in the end gave us both good and bad news. The bad news is that quantities were off between 40 and 50% due to the poor flowering but the good news is that the quality of the raw materials was first rate. Just to provide you with an idea, very generally speaking that are around 100 berries per bunch in a typical vintage but in 2012 there were between 50 and 60. We began picking on the 20th of September and you really couldn't ask for cleaner fruit as there was literally zero rot. Phenolic maturities were excellent and the potential alcohols were very good at around 12.5%. We did our normal vinification and the result is very rich and concentrated wines that should have early appeal but also age very well as there is no reason why they shouldn't." Chevillon noted that the domaine changed its label as of the 2011 vintage so fans should look for a change when those wines appear in the market place. Note I revisited two now in-bottle 2011s and one 2010 below. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, www.kermitlynch.com, Berkeley, CA; A&B Vintners, www.abvintners.co.uk, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, both UK).
    Tasting note: This is very reserved, indeed to the point where the nose is borderline taciturn and requires considerable swirling to reveal the ripe and intensely earthy nose of animale inflected dark berry fruit. The concentrated, powerful and muscular broad-shouldered flavors ooze with an abundance of dry extract that actually causes the very firm tannins to appear more civilized than they really are. Despite the reserve of the nose the austere finish is explosive and the length is excellent.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Bichot, Albert 2011 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Amoureuses Clos Frantin

1 Case 6 75cl £1,000

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