White Burgundy - 2014 - Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot M de Laguiche - Drouhin Joseph

  • Region: White Burgundy
  • Producer: Drouhin Joseph
  • Vintage: 2014
  • Rating: 93
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Tasting Notes

Maison Joseph Drouhin
2014
Chassagne-Montrachet "Morgeot" Marquis de Laguiche  ♥
1er Cru White barrel
Score: 91-93
Tasted: Jun 15, 2016
Drink: 2022+
Issue: 63
Outstanding
Note: from Le Grand Clos and Vignes Blanches
Producer note: Véronique Drouhin noted that the 2014 growing season "wasn't as difficult as that of 2013 but with the hail in the Côte de Beaune and the Suzukii flies in the Côte de Nuits it didn't lack for challenges. The season began propitiously with an almost summer-like spring that turned into an autumnal-like summer that was then followed by a summer-like fall. It was a rather curious succession of different kinds of weather that was punctuated by the late June hailstorm that was thankfully early enough that it had more impact on quantity than quality. We began picking on the 11th of September and the sorting requirements varied by parcel but very generally the fruit was pretty clean so there was less overall sorting than usual. We modified our use of whole cluster between none in the Côte de Beaune due to the hail to around 25% in the Côte de Nuits. I believe that our decision to attack the harvest a few days earlier paid dividends as the whites have better acidity than usual but not too much. Moreover while many observers seem fixated by how good the whites are, which in fairness they are excellent, but I believe that the quality of the reds is grossly underestimated. They have everything they need to also be very fine and while 2014 is not a genuinely great vintage for the reds, it's at least very good to excellent. A few years from now I think collectors are going to be very surprised by just how good they are." I noted in Issue 62 that I was extremely impressed by the quality of the Drouhin reds and I would make the same observation about their 2014 whites and this is true from the entry level wines to the very top of the range. Drouhin noted that the whites were bottled between November 2015 and January 2016. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, NY; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: A completely different aromatic profile is present here with its smoky array of earth, resin and various white orchard fruit scents. On the palate it's immediately clear that this is a big wine with impressive mid-palate concentration and overt power that continues onto the mouth coating and balanced finish that is very solidly structured. This won't win any awards for elegance but it absolutely avoids the heaviness that Morgeot can often display. Moderate patience required.