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Red Burgundy - 2017 - Chambolle Musigny - de Vogue

  • Region: Red Burgundy
  • Producer: de Vogue
  • Vintage: 2017
  • Rating: 89
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Tasting Notes

Domaine Comte de Vogüé
Chambolle-Musigny  ♥
Villages Red 750 ml
Score: 89
Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
Drink: 2027+
Issue: 77
Note: from <2 ha of vines in the southwest portion of the commune that includes some declassified 1ers from Les Baudes and Fuées
Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2018 growing season as "territoire inconnu [unknown territory] because Burgundy just shouldn't be this hot and dry. And the very wet spring had implications for an uneven fruit set, which then had implications for an uneven véraison. We picked carefully from the 30th of August to the 5th of September and brought in fruit that basically could not have been any more pristine. More importantly, the fruit was very phenolically ripe because if the fruit isn't perfectly clean you can sort out what doesn't please you but if it's not phenolically mature, there is nothing to be done about that. I have been doing this a long time and I have never seen colors this dark or that appeared quite so fast with no manipulations at all! I literally did no punch downs at all with the exception of the Bonnes Mares. Yields were not high and especially in the context of the vintage as they averaged right at 30 hl/ha with potential alcohols that ranged from 13.5 to 14%. The other thing we did that I believe was very important to preserving the freshness was to postpone the malos by running the air conditioning system in the cellar. Our rationale was to try to mimic the conditions that existed 30 years ago when the months of October, November and December following the harvest were typically much cooler and thus the temperatures in the cellars were naturally much lower. This of course delayed the malos until the spring and helped to keep the wines fresh. As to the wines, they're atypical but actually pretty interesting. The fruit is a mix of both red and dark and the terroir transparency, while initially relatively muted, has become much clearer as the élevage has progressed. I doubt that they will evolve to the point where they're classic Burgundies but they already appear to be more classic than say 2003 or 2009." At the time of my November visit Millet was not sure if he would fine the 2018s but said that they would definitely not be filtered. The 2017s, revisited below, were bottled between February and April 2019. Readers should be aware that as of 2015 the Musigny Blanc is once again being declared as such after having been declared as a Bourgogne Blanc since the 1994 vintage; there will be a review for the 2018 Musigny Blanc in Issue 79. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email david.forman@atlanta.com, GA and C'est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK; The Fine Wine Experience, www.finewineexperience.com, Hong Kong/China).
Tasting note: An attractively fresh and ultra-pure nose features notes of the pure essence of black cherry, cassis, spice and whiffs of herbal tea and violet. The succulent and nicely rich medium weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the refined and refreshing if dusty and mildly edgy finish. My sense is that the edginess will dissipate once the tannins begin to mellow.