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Red Burgundy - 2009 - Clos de Beze - Rousseau


  • Region: Red Burgundy
  • Producer: Rousseau
  • Vintage: 2009
  • Rating: 96
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Tasting Notes

Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Grand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 96
Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
Drink: 2029+
Issue: 45
Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
Tasting note: This is quite ripe yet the impression is one of freshness with no surmaturité while the aromas reveal an exuberant spiciness to the dense mix of red and black fruit and wet stone aromas. The supple, round and marvelously well-detailed broad-shouldered flavors possess a silky mid-palate brimming with dry extract on the almost painfully intense and massively long mineral-driven finish that displays stunning persistence. The 2009 is an impeccably well-balanced effort in yet another in a long line of great vintages for this storied wine.