- Region: Red Burgundy
- Producer: Leroy
- Vintage: 2006
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Romanée St. Vivant
Grand Cru Red 750 ml
Tasted: Apr 01, 2008
Note: from a 1 ha parcel planted in 1924
Producer note: Lalou Bize-Leroy calls 2006 the "modern day equivalent of 1962. In fact, 2005 and 2006 are very much like 1961 and 1962. There are of course always differences but to the extent that any vintage can really be compared with another, those are reasonably good parallels. We had slightly better yields in 2006 than 2005, coming in at between 19 to 20 hl/ha. In 2005, not including the Bourgogne, we were barely at 15. I view the wines as being built on their fruit but that doesn't mean that they won't age gracefully, much as the '62s have. I have every confidence that the wines will go 20 to 30 years with no trouble and the best examples will easily surpass that. In terms of more recent comparisons, the '06s remind me a bit of the 1986s in their youth in the sense of being more fruit-driven but the '06s are more complete wines and should age better. The '06s also have remarkable transparency of the underlying terroir and offer everything a burgundy enthusiast will love." In contrast to several recent vintages where the wines were bottled very early, the '06s were bottled in December, which is essentially the same month that the '05s were bottled in 2006.
The Leroy '06s are, with one notable exception, striking wines by any measure and several of the 1ers are simply stupendous. And for those readers who sometimes find the Leroy wines to lack elegance because they are so concentrated, then the '06s should appeal more because they have impressive elegance and display more finesse than certain other, more concentrated, recent vintages. This is not to imply that the '06s are not dense wines because they are but my point is that there is a certain tenderness, even a delicacy to them that is not always apparent early on with some other vintages. (Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; Justerini & Brooks, John Armit, Howard Ripley and Lay & Wheeler, all UK).
Tasting note: Great Romanée St. Vivant is arguably the classiest and most refined wine in all of Burgundy and yes, I include Musigny, Romanée-Conti and La Tâche in that comparison. Words honestly do not do justice to the sheer brilliance of the notably ripe kaleidoscopic nose that seamlessly combines a remarkable array of spices with the floral purple fruit aromas that serve as the perfect introduction to delicate, pure and mineral suffused flavors brimming with an underlying tension that provides a genuine sense of relief to the fantastically detailed finish that seems to go on and on without end. This is "thrill a second" quality juice and the class of the Leroy cellar in 2006.