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Neal Martin 99/100
Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 1998 Petrus must surely be the decade's pinnacle of the Right Bank. The aromatics are a masterclass of control and precision, yet it is also one of the most intense bouquets that has ever been produced at the estate. Dark berries, black truffle, hints of violet and iris, a touch of Indian ink burst from the glass all with otherworldly delineation so that the aromas never overwhelm. The palate is supremely controlled with filigree tannin, a silver bead of acidity and utter harmony. Compared to a few years ago, this Petrus appears to have calmed down since its exuberant youth, gaining maturity and sophistication. This is a "complete" Petrus that is magnificent in every department.
The 1998 Petrus is unquestionably a fabulous effort boasting a dense plum/purple color as well as an extraordinary nose of black fruits intermixed with caramel, mocha, and vanilla. Exceptionally pure, super-concentrated, and extremely full-bodied, with admirable underlying acidity as well as sweet tannin, it reveals a superb mid-palate in addition to the luxurious richness for which this great property is known. The finish lasts for 40-45 seconds. Patience will definitely be required. Production was 2,400 cases, about 1,600 cases less than normal. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2040