Champagne - 2008 - Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

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Tasting Notes

Rating

96+

Release Price

$299.99

Drink Date

2019 - 2050

Reviewed by

 Stephan Reinhardt

Issue Date

29th Jun 2018

Source

237, The Wine Advocate

From a cooler, fresher vintage and based on more Chardonnay than usual (55%), with 45% Pinot Noir, the Philipponnat 2008 Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut shows an exciting bouquet of bright fruits, crushed chalk, bread and iodine notes. On the palate, this is an excitingly vibrant, fresh and chalky Clos with lovely citrus and cumquat flavors on the finish. The 2008 is very complex, bright, super clear and fresh, with a tightly woven structure but still great finesse and elegance. This is a fabulous Clos for the next three decades. The dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged in April 2017 (?), tasted at the domaine in April 2018.

In April this year, on a very sunny early morning and after a memorable tasting at Jacques Lassaigne in the far south, I had a fantastic tasting with Charles Philipponnat and Antoine de Boysson, his commercial director. Sixteen cuvées instead of breakfast was a great start to the day, the more so since I had a trilogy of the famous, south-facing, 30% to 45% steep Clos des Goisses (2007 to 2009), the rare but adorable 2006 and 2007 (!) Clos des Goisses Just Rosé and the 2008 Les Cintres, the second vintage of the single-plot cuvées. A 100% oak-fermented Pinot Noir from the central part of the Clos des Goisses, the 2008 Les Cintres is not only the most impressive one of this group but also one of the finest Champagnes I have had this spring. The 2008 Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is also an outstanding Pinot Noir, though I did not taste the 2006 Le Léon, which is also crafted exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes from the historic Le Léon plot between Aÿ and Dizy that was—like the Clos des Goisses—already being cultivated by Charles's forefathers in 1522. All of the 1522 cuvées, not matter if 2007 or 2008, are extraordinary again.