Champagne - 1998 - Krug Clos d'Ambonnay

  • Region: Champagne
  • Vintage: 1998
  • Rating: 97
  • Notes:
    [Duty Paid]
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Tasting Notes

(From a small walled .68 ha parcel this is the rarest of Krug’s offerings that rests 12 years in the cellar before release). In the same fashion as the 1989 Brut reviewed below, I have also experienced some bottle variation among the three that I have tried, yet this most recent example was completely and utterly transfixing; indeed it was so much better than the one reviewed in Issue 56 that it left me scratching my head. I can’t explain why this might be but for whatever reason, the pinot-based fruit underlying this wine is in evidence because while there is plenty of citrus, yeast and floral characters on the nose there are also background hints of raspberry, strawberry and cherry nuances. There is clearly some age present on the complex, intense and vibrant flavors that possess a stunningly lovely mouth feel thanks to the very fine bead of the supporting mousse that is firm but not really exuberant, all wrapped in a lingering, cool and restrained finish that goes on and on. But what I like best about this gem is how it can deliver so much flavor authority and sheer depth so gracefully because make no mistake, this is a masculine Champagne with plenty of muscle. Note that while this could be enjoyed now without wasting too much future development potential, I would be inclined to hold it for another 5 to 6 years first. In a word, fantastic. Drink 2020+

Score: 97Allen Meadows, (60), October 2015