White Burgundy

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Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Case Size Formatsort descending Price Note Rating
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2014 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte - 1 Case 3 150cl £2,100
  • Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
    2014
    Chevalier-Montrachet "La Cabotte"
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Jun 15, 2016
    Drink: 2024+
    Issue: 63
    Don't miss!
    Note: Bouchard has been separately vinifying this parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Bouchard jokingly refers to this parcel as their "Montrachet du haute pente", or upper slope Montrachet
    Producer note: Winemaker Frédéric Weber spent plenty of time discussing the nuances of the 2014 vintage and growing season, noting that "the winter was very mild, in fact we had the warmest one since 1900. Not surprisingly the vegetative cycle began very early and a cool north wind made sure that the vines suffered no disease pressure. The early June flowering passed without incidence and there was a relatively abundant fruit set. Throughout the month of June we were dreaming of the possibility of making another 1999 and then the 28th arrived with the widespread hailstorm and all such thoughts were instantly destroyed along with a great deal of the potential crop. In 2013 we lost about one-third of the potential crop whereas in 2014 it was more in the range of 40 to 45%. In fact it was the smallest crop here at Bouchard since 2003. In early July the direction of the wind changed from the north to the southwest and lousy weather followed the winds except for a few days that were so hot that some parcels suffered sun burned fruit. Happily the second half of August and virtually all of September changed once again for the better and conditions were not only near-perfect but again there was virtually no disease pressure because the small amount of rot that developed in August was dried by the prevailing north wind. It also helped that there weren't many berries on each bunch so the fruit was well-aerated. We chose to begin picking the pinot on the 11th of September but waited until the 14th to attack the chardonnay. The chardonnay was impeccably clean and potential alcohols were in the 12 to 13.5% range with good acid levels. In contrast to the relatively quick malos for the pinot, those for the chardonnay were extended. As is our usual practice we did zero bâtonnage and we used no new wood whatsoever. As to the style of the 2014 whites, they remind me a great deal of the 2008s which in my book is an excellent compliment." Weber noted that the villages wines were bottled in September 2015 followed by the 1ers in November and the grands crus in December. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: This presently has the same nose as the Corton-Charlemagne as it's both reduced and mildly woody though I would not expect this to persist beyond the first few years as the reduction is not heavy. There is once again outstanding volume and concentration as well as impressive size, weight and richness to the highly seductive big-bodied flavors that possess a plenitude of dry extract that both coats the palate and buffers the firm acid spine shaping the gorgeously long and well-balanced finale. In 2014 this more resembles Montrachet than Chevalier and I would make the same observation here that I made with the Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier that while this should amply reward extended cellaring it is not so backward that it shouldn't drink well after 6 to 8 years.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Bonneau du Martray 2002 Corton Charlemagne 1 Case 6 150cl £1,900
  • Brilliant and ultra fine aromas of green apples and limestone lead to almost Chablis-like intensity and razor-sharp, incredibly delineated, chiseled flavors that offer superb texture and an almost chewy finish. This is quite different from many examples of 2002 Corton-Charlemagne as this more of a world class gymnast than a weight lifter as it's sleek, silky and taut plus the delineation is like a hot knife through butter. In short, this is reference standard Corton-Charlemagne and highly recommended.

    Score: 93 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, July 2005

    Boasting terrific aromatic richness, the white flower and ripe apple-scented 2002 Corton-Charlemagne has awesome depth, gorgeous balance, and is impressively refined. Copious quantities of spiced minerals are intermingled with white fruits in its intense, fresh, concentrated core. This light to medium-bodied wine is not a blockbuster, yet I’d rather dine with Audrey Hepburn than Anna Nicole Smith. Projected maturity: 2006-2015.

    Score: 92/94 Pierre-Antoine Rovani, Wine Advocate (151), February 2004

    Shows fine density, even a slight astringency. Ripe, apple and peach flavours are rich and persistent, with vanilla and mineral notes emerging on the long, expansive finish, where it reveals its potential. Best from 2008 through 2018.

    Score: 94 Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator, June 2005

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2010 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles 2 Case 3 150cl £1,390
  • Tasting note: A gorgeously elegant if highly restrained nose of citrus, acacia blossom and pungent wet stone aromas trimmed in just enough wood to notice is stunning. Not surprisingly, the medium-bodied flavors are much finer than those of the Bâtard or Corton-Charlemagne though not quite as big or powerful. The strikingly intense, lingering and impeccably well-balanced finish radiates minerality and the overall sense of harmony is flat out superb. A knockout, even by the incredible standards of this wine.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2015 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Bottle 150cl £1,365
  • 93-95 Tasting note: This offers the most elegant nose in the range with its cool, pure and airy array that is composed by notes of essence of pear, white flowers, spice, jasmine tea and citrus zest nuances. There is outstanding volume, power and concentration to the focused, intense and palate coating broad-shouldered flavors that despite the imposing scale remain highly refined and particularly so on the markedly mineral-driven and explosively long finish. This won't be the finest Chevalier that Leflaive has ever produced but it is a terrific effort for the vintage.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2017 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles 2 Case 3 150cl £1,950
  • The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Demoiselles Grand Cru has a very precise, quite intense bouquet of apple blossom, struck flint and a light smokiness coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity. This is a pretty Chevalier-Montrachet, offering touches of apricot and quince and quite persistent in the mouth, revealing a subtle stem ginger note toward the finish. Superb. Drink 2021-2040.

    Score: 94/96Neal Martin, vinous.com (Interim), January 2019

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2018 Chevalier Montrachet 2 Bottle 150cl £1,425
  • Rating

    (94 - 96)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    NA

    Reviewed by

     William Kelley

    Issue Date

    9th Jan 2020

    Source

    January 2020 Week 2, The Wine Advocate

    The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru was also quite introverted and reserved when I tasted it, mingling scents of orange oil, pear and green apple with hints of crushed chalk and fresh pastry in a youthfully shy bouquet. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, chalky and tensile, with fine concentration, racy acids and a serious, almost austere profile in the context of this charming white Burgundy vintage.

    While many producers along the Côte de Beaune were inclined to accept the generous yields of the 2018 as nature's gift, arguing that Chardonnay can sustain an elevated crop without suffering dilution, Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent told me that they opted to perform an aggressive green harvest, jettisoning around 40% of the potential crop. The result is a charming set of wines with good depth and structure that's nicely differentiated by site, though the wines were still quite introverted when I visited in November. Brice de La Morandière compares them unfavorably to the 2017s, and certainly the 2018s appear to be less tensile and vibrant. But in some quarters, the same criticism was made of the domaine's 1982s—another abundant harvest of ripe grapes—and today, the 1982 Leflaive wines are still drinking brilliantly. So, I am not giving up on the 2018s just yet. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent have made a number of important changes in winemaking practices at the domaine beginning with the 2017 vintage, I was disappointed that they declined to show those wines from bottle. Tasting wines in the midst of their élevage can be informative, certainly, but there is no substitute for tasting finished wines from bottle—an argument I expand on in the introduction to this report. And when a domaine of Leflaive's importance makes notable changes in their winemaking practices, revisiting the resulting wines from bottle is of more than usual interest. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent appear to be doing everything right to rehabilitate the reputation of Domaine Leflaive, I was a little surprised, and I will make effort to taste this watershed vintage from bottle one way or another in the near future.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2017 Batard Montrachet 2 Bottle 150cl £1,100
  • Rating

    (94 - 96)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    NA

    Reviewed by

     William Kelley

    Issue Date

    9th Jan 2020

    Source

    January 2020 Week 2, The Wine Advocate

    The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is powerful and muscular, opening in the glass with notions of orange oil, peach, white flowers, beeswax and warm bread. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and introverted, with a broad-shouldered, textural profile, serious reserves of concentration and lively balancing acids, concluding with a saline finish.

    While many producers along the Côte de Beaune were inclined to accept the generous yields of the 2018 as nature's gift, arguing that Chardonnay can sustain an elevated crop without suffering dilution, Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent told me that they opted to perform an aggressive green harvest, jettisoning around 40% of the potential crop. The result is a charming set of wines with good depth and structure that's nicely differentiated by site, though the wines were still quite introverted when I visited in November. Brice de La Morandière compares them unfavorably to the 2017s, and certainly the 2018s appear to be less tensile and vibrant. But in some quarters, the same criticism was made of the domaine's 1982s—another abundant harvest of ripe grapes—and today, the 1982 Leflaive wines are still drinking brilliantly. So, I am not giving up on the 2018s just yet. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent have made a number of important changes in winemaking practices at the domaine beginning with the 2017 vintage, I was disappointed that they declined to show those wines from bottle. Tasting wines in the midst of their élevage can be informative, certainly, but there is no substitute for tasting finished wines from bottle—an argument I expand on in the introduction to this report. And when a domaine of Leflaive's importance makes notable changes in their winemaking practices, revisiting the resulting wines from bottle is of more than usual interest. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent appear to be doing everything right to rehabilitate the reputation of Domaine Leflaive, I was a little surprised, and I will make effort to taste this watershed vintage from bottle one way or another in the near future.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2018 Batard Montrachet 1 Bottle 150cl £1,050
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2016 Batard Montrachet 1 Bottle 150cl £975
  • Domaine Leflaive
    2016
    Bâtard-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White barrel
    Score: 94-96
    Tasted: Jun 15, 2018
    Drink: 2028+
    Issue: 71
    Don't miss!
    Note: from 3 different parcels, two on the Chassagne side and the third in the Puligny sector that is near the border dividing the two communes
    Producer note: I tasted this time with director Brice de La Morandière along with new régisseur (estate manager) Pierre Vincent who was hired away from Domaine de la Vougeraie (see below). They told me that 2016 "gave us a lot of difficulty with the frost and mildew but we managed reasonably well under the circumstances. While May and June weren't great, thereafter we enjoyed fine conditions that allowed the vines to bring the remaining fruit to excellent maturity. We chose to begin picking on the 21st of September and the happily the fruit was spotless so there was essentially almost no sorting required. The frost though cost us severely in terms of yield as they were off 50% overall but 75 to 80% in the grands crus, which is obviously painful for a variety of reasons. And of course there will be no Montrachet, at least not 100% from our owned vines. But the losses were markedly disparate because as hard hit as the grands crus were, yields were about normal in Blagny, Clavoillon and Folatières. As to the wines, they are impressively concentrated with excellent terroir transparency; indeed the word classic is a good descriptor." (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, CA, USA; John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Private Cellar Ltd., www.privatecellar.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: A slight hint of reduction does not materially detract from the intensely floral-suffused nose that displays hints of acacia blossom and rose petal along with spice, citrus and pear aromas. There is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the mouth coating and borderline opulent big-bodied flavors that possess a seductive texture on the strikingly persistent and overtly powerful finish. A definite 'wow' wine.
    Occasionally when information is transferred from the Issues to the database errors are created.
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2016 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1 Bottle 150cl £920
  • Tasting note: Notes of smoky reduction mask the fruit though the nose does seem ripe. Otherwise the mouth feel of the slightly bigger and richer flavors is similar to that of the Pucelles while the impeccably well-balanced finish displays just a bit more length.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2017 Bourgogne Blanc 1 Case 3 150cl £270
  • Domaine Leflaive
    2017
    Bourgogne  ♥
    Regional White barrel
    Score: 87-89
    Tasted: Jun 10, 2019
    Drink: 2022+
    Issue: 75
    Outstanding
    Note: includes some declassified villages wine
    Producer note: As is usually the case, I tasted with director Brice de La Morandière along with régisseur (estate manager) Pierre Vincent. They told me that while 2017 had "a growing season that was easier to manage than was 2016, there were still a few problems such as a late April frost scare and enough mildew pressure to cost us at least some yield. Otherwise though, things were reasonably clement and we picked ripe and clean fruit from the 29th of August to the 3rd of September. Yields were good and consistent as they came in around 42 to 43 hl/ha save for the Bourgogne which suffered some frost damage. Sugars and potential alcohols were very good, coming in as they did between 12.5 and 13%. There was not a lot of malic acid but even so pHs were solid at around 3.05 to 3.15. As to the wines, probably the characteristic that defines the 2017s the best is their outstanding balance. They're classically styled white burgundies and we're really quite pleased with the results." La Morandière explained that they are continuing their expansion in the Mâconnais and several of the new entries were really quite impressive. (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, CA, USA; John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Private Cellar Ltd., www.privatecellar.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: A beautifully fresh nose combines notes of freshly sliced lemon with those of various white orchard fruit and a hint of wood toast. There is excellent energy to the detailed and solidly concentrated medium weight flavors that possess very good depth and persistence for its level. This is quite good and it's not hard to sense the influence of the villages level infusion.
     

Tasting Notes
89
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2017 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1 Bottle 150cl £925
  • Domaine Leflaive
    2017
    Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jun 10, 2019
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 75
    Note: from 45+ year old vines, which are the oldest of the Domaine
    Producer note: As is usually the case, I tasted with director Brice de La Morandière along with régisseur (estate manager) Pierre Vincent. They told me that while 2017 had "a growing season that was easier to manage than was 2016, there were still a few problems such as a late April frost scare and enough mildew pressure to cost us at least some yield. Otherwise though, things were reasonably clement and we picked ripe and clean fruit from the 29th of August to the 3rd of September. Yields were good and consistent as they came in around 42 to 43 hl/ha save for the Bourgogne which suffered some frost damage. Sugars and potential alcohols were very good, coming in as they did between 12.5 and 13%. There was not a lot of malic acid but even so pHs were solid at around 3.05 to 3.15. As to the wines, probably the characteristic that defines the 2017s the best is their outstanding balance. They're classically styled white burgundies and we're really quite pleased with the results." La Morandière explained that they are continuing their expansion in the Mâconnais and several of the new entries were really quite impressive. (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, CA, USA; John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Private Cellar Ltd., www.privatecellar.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: As is often the case chez Leflaive, the nose is quite similar to that of the Pucelles with the only difference being that it's a touch riper. The highly succulent medium-bodied flavors possess equally good mid-palate sap while delivering excellent depth and persistence on the focused, balanced and wonderfully long finish. This is class in a glass and very BBM in character.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2018 Montrachet 2 Bottle 150cl £930
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2017 Chevalier Montrachet 3 Bottle 150cl £1,350
  • Domaine Leflaive
    2017
    Chevalier-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White barrel
    Score: 93-96
    Tasted: Jun 10, 2019
    Drink: 2032+
    Issue: 75
    Producer note: As is usually the case, I tasted with director Brice de La Morandière along with régisseur (estate manager) Pierre Vincent. They told me that while 2017 had "a growing season that was easier to manage than was 2016, there were still a few problems such as a late April frost scare and enough mildew pressure to cost us at least some yield. Otherwise though, things were reasonably clement and we picked ripe and clean fruit from the 29th of August to the 3rd of September. Yields were good and consistent as they came in around 42 to 43 hl/ha save for the Bourgogne which suffered some frost damage. Sugars and potential alcohols were very good, coming in as they did between 12.5 and 13%. There was not a lot of malic acid but even so pHs were solid at around 3.05 to 3.15. As to the wines, probably the characteristic that defines the 2017s the best is their outstanding balance. They're classically styled white burgundies and we're really quite pleased with the results." La Morandière explained that they are continuing their expansion in the Mâconnais and several of the new entries were really quite impressive. (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, CA, USA; John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Private Cellar Ltd., www.privatecellar.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: An all-but mute if cool and elegant nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of wet stone, white flowers, tangerine peel and jasmine tea. There is almost painful intensity to the larger-scaled yet refined flavors that brim with both dry extract and a driving minerality before concluding in an equally long finish. This too is very clearly built-to-age and is a superb Chevalier that is going to require extended patience.
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 3 Bottle 300cl £695
  • Tasting note: This is also quite elegant with its equally spicy nose of honeysuckle, yellow and white orchard fruit and citrus elements. There is a lovely vibrancy to the concentrated and relatively large-scaled flavors that possess good power on the markedly dry and somewhat compact edgy finish. As with the Combettes my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that the finish will flesh out and the dryness will dissipate with time.
     

Tasting Notes
92
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2017 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1 Bottle 300cl £1,925
  • Domaine Leflaive
    2017
    Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jun 10, 2019
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 75
    Note: from 45+ year old vines, which are the oldest of the Domaine
    Producer note: As is usually the case, I tasted with director Brice de La Morandière along with régisseur (estate manager) Pierre Vincent. They told me that while 2017 had "a growing season that was easier to manage than was 2016, there were still a few problems such as a late April frost scare and enough mildew pressure to cost us at least some yield. Otherwise though, things were reasonably clement and we picked ripe and clean fruit from the 29th of August to the 3rd of September. Yields were good and consistent as they came in around 42 to 43 hl/ha save for the Bourgogne which suffered some frost damage. Sugars and potential alcohols were very good, coming in as they did between 12.5 and 13%. There was not a lot of malic acid but even so pHs were solid at around 3.05 to 3.15. As to the wines, probably the characteristic that defines the 2017s the best is their outstanding balance. They're classically styled white burgundies and we're really quite pleased with the results." La Morandière explained that they are continuing their expansion in the Mâconnais and several of the new entries were really quite impressive. (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, CA, USA; John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Private Cellar Ltd., www.privatecellar.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: As is often the case chez Leflaive, the nose is quite similar to that of the Pucelles with the only difference being that it's a touch riper. The highly succulent medium-bodied flavors possess equally good mid-palate sap while delivering excellent depth and persistence on the focused, balanced and wonderfully long finish. This is class in a glass and very BBM in character.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2008 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1 Bottle 300cl £375
  • Tasting note: A very subtle reductive character knocks down the expressiveness of the lemon and pretty white flower aromas so I would strongly suggest decanting this for 20 to 30 minutes first. The detailed, pure and lightly mineral-driven flavors possess really lovely balance and fine length. If there is a nit it is that this doesn't possess the complexity of the best 1ers here though the track record of this wine is such that I wouldn't bet against it developing materially more complexity in the bottle.

Tasting Notes
90
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 2 Case 12 75cl £3,875
White Burgundy Sauzet 2012 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 3 75cl £1,200
  • Tasting note: This is also unusually expressive while exhibiting very subtle hints of exotic orange pekoe tea on the beautifully fresh nose of dried fruits that include apricot, white peach and acacia blossom. There is an opulent and caressing mouth feel to the very rich and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract before terminating in a delicious, mineral-driven and impressively long finish. This is rich to the point of succulence and while it will certainly age well this will be approachable much earlier than usual.

Tasting Notes
93
White Burgundy Sauzet 2012 Batard Montrachet 1 Case 3 75cl £850
  • Tasting note: Here the surprisingly expressive nose is even more complex with broad-ranging aromas of various floral and white fleshed fruit scents that also display top notes of spice, all of which is again framed in discreet oak hints. This is a big Bâtard where the broad-shouldered flavors brim with palate soaking dry extract that does a fine job of effectively buffering the very firm acid spine that keeps everything in balance on the opulently textured and hugely long finish. Moreover this is strikingly complex, indeed it rivals the Montrachet for being the most complex wine in the range.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Verget 1996 Corton Charlemagne 9 Bottle 75cl £115
White Burgundy Verget 1996 Batard Montrachet 2 Bottle 75cl £160
White Burgundy Prudhon, Henri 2013 Puligny Enseignieres 1 Case 6 75cl £245
  • Tasting note: A mild trace of reduction is enough to push the fruit to the background but I doubt that it will last; if you are tempted to try a bottle young simply decant it first. The lush and unusually full-bodied flavors in the context of what is typical for a villages level Puligny possess both fine volume and ample power while delivering excellent length on the impeccably well-balanced finale. This is a terrific effort and highly recommended.
     

Tasting Notes
90
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2016 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte - 1 Case 3 75cl £1,025
  • The 2016 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru has a similar bouquet to the regular Chevalier-Montrachet this year, albeit with a subtle oyster shell scent that surfaces with time. The palate is very poised and a little nuttier and more saline than the regular bottling, although for me it does not quite deliver the same precision right on the finish. It is a bit broody at the moment and maybe closer in style to the Montrachet. Three barrels produced (since the vines were less affected by frost).

    Score: 92 - 94

    Neal Martin, robertparker.com Maturity: 2020-204529 December 2017

    (just two barrels produced, vs. a normal three or four; almost finished with its malolactic fermentation): Pale, bright yellow. Musky, deeply pitched aromas of smoky oak and Montrachet-like iodiney minerality (La Cabotte is the northeastern section of Chevalier-Montrachet, which was part of Montrachet until early in the 20th century). Big, rich and deep, with savory minerality currently dominating ripe stone fruits. This very tactile, salty wine may be less energetic in the early going than the "regular" Chevalier-Montrachet but then it's in more of a Montrachet style, like the 2015 version: large-scaled but quite dry and classic and not expressive today. Also more tannic on the back end, and still with a malic note of spiced apple, along with an intriguing suggestion of peony remaining in the empty glass.

    Score: 92 - 94

    Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com 01 September 2017

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Comtes Lafon 2002 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 4 Bottle 75cl £225
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2018 Rully Blanc 10 Case 6 75cl £79
  • The 2018 Rully Village is missing a little intensity on the nose, which offers light malic aromas and a touch of wet granite. The palate is better, with light apricot and white peach notes on the entry and fine acidity. An easygoing Rully with a touch of nettle and spice on the finish.

    -- Neal Martin  Neal Martin 2020 - 2024 Jan 2020

Tasting Notes
86
White Burgundy Sauzet 1996 Puligny 1er Cru Combettes 1 Bottle 75cl £175
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 2 Case 6 75cl £395
  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2015
    Beaune "Clos des Mouches"  ♥
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 91
    Tasted: Jun 11, 2017
    Drink: 2021+
    Issue: 67
    Outstanding
    Producer note: I met this time with enologist and winemaker Jérôme Faure-Brac as well as Véronique Drouhin who collectively noted that the 2015 growing season "wasn't nearly as difficult as the prior seasons and particularly so with our parcels in the Côte de Beaune. You had to be really careful pruning the vines as the accumulated effects from three consecutive years of hail in the Côte de Beaune had made many of them quite fragile. We also had significantly different yields as they were normal in the Côte de Nuits but quite low in the Côte de Beaune. One of the really nice things about the vintage is how clean the fruit was and given that the harvest weather was so clement we could basically pick each parcel when we felt it was ready, a luxury that isn't always available. We were also super-vigilant about the pressing as we absolutely wanted to avoid the higher pHs that typically result from using the press juice. As such we vinified it separately and then, depending on the characteristics of the press wine, we incorporated it or, if we didn't like it, we sold it. We also did no lees stirring because it was clear from the beginning that the whites were going to be very rich. One of the interesting aspects of this vintage is how much the wines have changed over time as initially they seemed almost heavy and a bit flat at first but as the élevage progressed, they tightened up and actually became fresher and more focused. At that point we said that there was nothing further to be gained from keeping the wines in cask so we bottled the entire range between December 2016 and February 2017." I found the quality of the Drouhin 2015 whites to be generally better than what I found on balance elsewhere. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, USA; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Here the nose is quite firmly reduced so be sure to decant it if you're yearning to try a bottle upon release. On the plus side there is a really lovely texture to the elegant and vibrant medium weight flavors that possess very fine complexity on the highly persistent finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth.
     

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2015 Batard Montrachet 1 Case 3 75cl £1,450
  • 93-95 

    A pungent and more expressive nose offers up a broad assortment of aromas that include notes of matchstick, white orchard fruit and in particular white peach, exotic tea and plenty of citrus nuances. The mouth feel of the big-bodied flavors is notably more refined than usual yet the underlying power of a fine Bâtard is certainly present and especially so on the hugely long, firm and built-to-age finish. In a word, impressive. 
    Note: from 3 different parcels, two on the Chassagne side and the third in the Puligny sector that is near the border dividing the two communes
    Drink: 2027+

    Score: 93/95 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (67), June 2017

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Prieur 2017 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 3 75cl £880
  • Domaine Jacques Prieur
    2017
    Chevalier-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Jun 10, 2019
    Drink: 2027+
    Issue: 75
    Note: from a .14 ha parcel
    Producer note: Technical director and winemaker Nadine Gublin noted that 2017 "commenced early which is good if there is no late frost, which there was but we lucked out and avoided any significant damage. This was not only fortunate but it also signaled that the vegetative cycle would be advanced. After that the growing season was favorable and once again we began the harvest in August with the whites on the 29th. We waited though to pick the reds so that we could be sure to have good levels of phenolic maturity and thus we started on the 6th of September and continued through to the 12th. The fruit was not only clean but importantly had homogenous maturities. We did absolutely no lees stirring as there appeared to be very good body and richness from the beginning. As to the wines, I find it interesting just how much they improved during the élevage and that is as true for the whites as it is the reds. Perhaps the most attractive qualities of the wines are their freshness, refined textures and balance which should enable them to age effortlessly." The whites will be bottled without fining or filtration. I found the quality of the 2017 whites to be quite good and particularly so with the upper level wines. Readers should also take a look herein at a new négociant partnership between Domaine Prieur and co-owner and general director Edouard Labruyère that is called Labruyère-Prieur Sélection. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; SAQ, www.saq.com, LCBO, www.lcbo.com and Philippe Danduran Wines, www.vinsdandurand.com, all Canada).
    Tasting note: A distinctly leesy nose is firmly reduced. Otherwise there is both good freshness and verve to the concentrated, powerful and quite serious large-scaled and mouth coating flavors that flash evident minerality on the driving, structured and impressively long finish. This is a big Chevalier that will definitely need at least 5-ish years to become civilized and very likely 10 to 12 to reveal its full potential.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2015 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 3 75cl £1,700
  • 93-95 Tasting note: This offers the most elegant nose in the range with its cool, pure and airy array that is composed by notes of essence of pear, white flowers, spice, jasmine tea and citrus zest nuances. There is outstanding volume, power and concentration to the focused, intense and palate coating broad-shouldered flavors that despite the imposing scale remain highly refined and particularly so on the markedly mineral-driven and explosively long finish. This won't be the finest Chevalier that Leflaive has ever produced but it is a terrific effort for the vintage.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2018 Puligny 1er Cru Les Folatieres 1 Case 6 75cl £1,200
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2018 Puligny 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2 Case 6 75cl £1,400
  • Rating

    (92 - 94)+

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    NA

    Reviewed by

     William Kelley

    Issue Date

    9th Jan 2020

    Source

    January 2020 Week 2, The Wine Advocate

    The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles was showing very well, opening in the glass with notes of fresh peach and pear mingled with notions of oatmeal, pastry cream and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, textural and fleshy, with fine concentration and structuring dry extract, good underlying acidity and a long, saline finish.

    While many producers along the Côte de Beaune were inclined to accept the generous yields of the 2018 as nature's gift, arguing that Chardonnay can sustain an elevated crop without suffering dilution, Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent told me that they opted to perform an aggressive green harvest, jettisoning around 40% of the potential crop. The result is a charming set of wines with good depth and structure that's nicely differentiated by site, though the wines were still quite introverted when I visited in November. Brice de La Morandière compares them unfavorably to the 2017s, and certainly the 2018s appear to be less tensile and vibrant. But in some quarters, the same criticism was made of the domaine's 1982s—another abundant harvest of ripe grapes—and today, the 1982 Leflaive wines are still drinking brilliantly. So, I am not giving up on the 2018s just yet. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent have made a number of important changes in winemaking practices at the domaine beginning with the 2017 vintage, I was disappointed that they declined to show those wines from bottle. Tasting wines in the midst of their élevage can be informative, certainly, but there is no substitute for tasting finished wines from bottle—an argument I expand on in the introduction to this report. And when a domaine of Leflaive's importance makes notable changes in their winemaking practices, revisiting the resulting wines from bottle is of more than usual interest. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent appear to be doing everything right to rehabilitate the reputation of Domaine Leflaive, I was a little surprised, and I will make effort to taste this watershed vintage from bottle one way or another in the near future.

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2017 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 1 Case 6 75cl £2,475
  • Tasting note: This is also quite aromatically restrained with its decidedly cool and relatively airy nose that mixes a dollop of wood toast with plenty of floral, citrus and white-fleshed fruit scents. The super-fine but intense and tautly muscular large-scaled flavors possess a subtle minerality that carries over to the gorgeously complex, persistent and balanced finish. As it should be, this is very clearly built-to-age and a wine that should enjoy an extended maturity curve.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 12 75cl £2,400
  • The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up aromas of lemon oil, pastry cream, white flowers, crushed rocks and mandarin. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with excellent concentration, chalky extract and juicy acids that lend the wine lovely precision, concluding with a pure, tongue-tingling finish. This is very promising and will be well worth seeking out.

    Score: 93/95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, January 2019

    The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from all four terraces in the vineyard. It has a crisp bouquet with fine mineralité, very focused and intense, with touches of hazelnut developing with time. The well-balanced palate displays a fine bead of acidity. Quite poised in the mouth, leading to a harmonious tangerine and crushed stone finish. This conveys a nascent authority that stands it in good stead for the future. Excellent. Drink 2022-2040.

    Score: 92/94 Neal Martin, vinous.com, January 2019

Tasting Notes
95

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