White Burgundy

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Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Size Price Note Rating
White Burgundy Amiot, Guy 2003 Chassagne 1er Cru Caillerets 1 Case 75cl
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  • Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils
    2003
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Caillerets"
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 88
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2005
    Drink: 2007+
    Issue: 19
    Note: from two parcels, one of 30 year old vines and another of 70 year old vines planted on le vrai chardonnay
    Producer note: Thierry Amiot told me that 2003 isn't a "bad millésime but it didn't seem very interesting at first. The élevage wasn't linear or regular - each wine had its own personality and we had to treat each one individually. We started the harvest on August 18th but we harvested over the course of an entire month as we tried to harvest each parcel at its optimum ripeness level. Yields were quite low at around 32 hl/ha in white, mainly because Chassagne was really hit hard by frost, especially in the lower lying vineyards. Sugars were in the 13.5% range but I think they were that "low" only because the vines shut down; otherwise, we might have seen sugars in the 15%+ range. The vines jump started again around the 19th of August because there was a big storm which hit St. Aubin and while no rain fell in Chassagne, all the water ran downhill from St. Aubin and flooded our vineyards. This helped enormously and essentially unblocked the vines. Because of the reduced yields, I used a bit more new oak than usual as well as more SO2 and I bottled with slightly higher levels of gas. As to acidification, we did acidify but it was bit by bit and only until I could taste it and then we stopped immediately. There was no point in trying to deny the impact of the vintage and all the acid additions were meant to do was ensure a clean and healthy fermentation environment. The wines will probably drink well early but it won't surprise me if they wind up aging reasonably well." Like many domaines did, Amiot bottled his whites with decidedly higher gas and SO2 levels. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; Boston Wine Company, Boston, MA; Lea & Sandeman, H&H Bancroft, Rare & Fine Wine, House of Townend, all UK).
    Tasting note: Sweet, vanilla and spice-infused oak notes frame very fresh and higher-toned peach and white flower fruit aromas that give way to toasty, intense and long flavors that display much more of the classic minerality than any of the prior examples. This is a powerful wine that departs from its normal character but remains attractive in its fashion - just don't expect a typical Caillerets experience. I suspect this will age for up to a decade.
     

Tasting Notes
88
White Burgundy Amiot, Guy 2003 Chassagne 1er Cru Les Vergers 1 Case 75cl
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  • Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils
    2003
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Vergers"
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 87
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2005
    Drink: 2006+
    Issue: 19
    Note: from 70+ year old vines on original chardonnay plant material - Amiot calls this le vrai chardonnay or the true chardonnay
    Producer note: Thierry Amiot told me that 2003 isn't a "bad millésime but it didn't seem very interesting at first. The élevage wasn't linear or regular - each wine had its own personality and we had to treat each one individually. We started the harvest on August 18th but we harvested over the course of an entire month as we tried to harvest each parcel at its optimum ripeness level. Yields were quite low at around 32 hl/ha in white, mainly because Chassagne was really hit hard by frost, especially in the lower lying vineyards. Sugars were in the 13.5% range but I think they were that "low" only because the vines shut down; otherwise, we might have seen sugars in the 15%+ range. The vines jump started again around the 19th of August because there was a big storm which hit St. Aubin and while no rain fell in Chassagne, all the water ran downhill from St. Aubin and flooded our vineyards. This helped enormously and essentially unblocked the vines. Because of the reduced yields, I used a bit more new oak than usual as well as more SO2 and I bottled with slightly higher levels of gas. As to acidification, we did acidify but it was bit by bit and only until I could taste it and then we stopped immediately. There was no point in trying to deny the impact of the vintage and all the acid additions were meant to do was ensure a clean and healthy fermentation environment. The wines will probably drink well early but it won't surprise me if they wind up aging reasonably well." Like many domaines did, Amiot bottled his whites with decidedly higher gas and SO2 levels. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; Boston Wine Company, Boston, MA; Lea & Sandeman, H&H Bancroft, Rare & Fine Wine, House of Townend, all UK).
    Tasting note: A fresh but emphatically toasty nose leads to sweet, round, fat and generous peach and apricot-infused flavors that are very forward yet retain good intensity and solid balance. The acidity pokes through somewhat on the medium length finish but it's noticeable rather than really intrusive.
     

Tasting Notes
87
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2006 Chevalier Montrachet 2 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: Prost was, justifiably, extremely proud of this wine and observed that it may be the best "straight" Chevalier that he's ever made. Not surprisingly, this is a good deal more elegant than the Bâtard with gorgeously pure floral and white fruit, stone and subtle spice aromas that seamlessly merge into the almost painfully intense and vibrant flavors that, like the Perrières, possess crystalline purity and huge length. This is a knockout Chevy and if you can find it, don't miss it.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2008 Chevalier Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Producer note: Stéphane Arbelet and Philippe Prost, Bouchard's managing director and winemaker respectively, noted that 2008 "presented many challenges climactically speaking. Depending on the sector, there was heavy rain, hail, wide temperature swings and various kinds of rot. We began picking in the Côte de Beaune on the 24th of September with the pinot and because of the cool and dry conditions, we were able to harvest the chardonnay slowly and deliberately, in fact we did not finish until the 6th of October. The chardonnay was healthy and quite clean and while there was some sorting required, it was minimal. The yields in tonnage were lower than in 2007 but because of the dehydrating effects of the persistent north wind, the realized yield in juice was much lower. Ripeness levels were generally very good though they did vary by sector and particularly by altitude. In terms of the wines, they have everything they need to be very long lived, which is to say vibrant acidity, ample concentration and exceptional freshness." Both Arbelet and Prost were exceptionally high on the quality of their '08 whites and their enthusiasm was born out by the quality of what I saw here. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: This is also wonderfully elegant with high-toned, pure and airy aromas of white flower, light toast, spiced pear and a hint of green apple that gives way to supple yet detailed mineral-suffused middle weight flavors that are perhaps even more refined than those of the Perrières, all wrapped in a balanced, stylish and lingering finish. As good as this is, and it is very good, it's not necessarily leagues better than its junior partner, just different though it will most likely require a few more years to reach its apogee.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Batard Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Chevalier Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
    2010
    Chevalier-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jun 01, 2012
    Drink: 2018+
    Issue: 47
    Note: from a 2.54 ha parcel
    Producer note: Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, noted that 2010 was "an up and down growing season with a difficult flowering that resulted in a very small crop with a very high percentage of shot berries, especially in the Côte de Beaune. As just one example, in our parcel of Goutte d'Or we realized 60% less than we did in 2009. We began picking on the 20th of September and picked through the 1st of October. The harvest conditions were very cool so the super clean fruit arrived at the cuverie at much more reduced temperatures than is typical. The harvest itself though was less stressful than usual for the simple reason that various parcels were ready at different times due to the highly heterogeneous flowering and thus we could methodically organize our harvest regimen. Moreover, thanks to the tiny crop and cool harvest weather we had absolutely no rot pressure so again, we could pick when we chose. By contrast both 2009 and 2011 saw everything basically ready at the same time so it was much more difficult to optimize the harvest for each parcel. As to the wines, they have lots of energy and really speak of their underlying terroirs. They're classic burgundies if you will." Proust noted that most of the upper level whites were bottled in December, 2011 and January, 2012. Prost also discussed recent changes in their approach to bottling to battle the scourge of premature oxidation. I detail the keys points in my premox update that can be found after the introduction to this Issue. And as I reported in Issue 42, Bouchard continues to bottle all of its whites under the agglomerate cork called Diam, which is guaranteed to be TCA-free. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: A restrained, indeed almost mute nose reluctantly gives up aromas of acacia, citrus peel, wet stone and white peach. The supple and ultra-refined flavors possess a beguiling purity along with as much mineral character as the Perrières, before culminating in a balanced and harmonious finish. This is a very, very understated effort and it's going to require the better part of a decade before it unwinds to reveal its full potential.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte - owc 3x150 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: Here the nose displays noticeable sulfur and it's enough to knock down the expressiveness of the otherwise attractively ripe and complex aromas that are compositionally similar to those of the Chevalier. The textured, concentrated and overtly muscular flavors brim with an abundance of dry extract before concluding in an explosively long, mouth coating and almost painfully intense finish. As is often the case, the 2010 La Cabotte displays characteristics of both the Montrachet and the Chevalier and this is one beautiful wine. Note that I do not expect the sulfur to be an issue as the wine ages though if you're tempted to try a bottle young it would be good to decant it first.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2011 Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: This is aromatically quite similar at this early stage to the La Cabotte. There is an extraordinarily powerful effort with impressive mid-palate density and so much dry extract that it imparts a sappy, even seductive texture to the mouth coating flavors that terminate in a breathtakingly long finish. Moreover, as good as the La Cabotte is, and it is indeed exceptionally good, there is simply no contest between the two wines as there is just another dimension present here. In sum, this beautifully well-balanced Monty is an absolute knockout!
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Puligny 1er Cru Combettes 5 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Corton Charlemagne 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Chevalier Montrachet (Domaine) 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 2 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouzereau 2011 Corton Clos des Fietres 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouzereau 2012 Corton Clos des Fietres 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bruno Colin 2010 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot 1 Bottle Jeroboam
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  • Tasting note: Relatively heavy sulfur knocks down the nose though aggressive swirling coaxes a solidly complex array of both white and yellow fruit aromas that include pear, apricot, peach and apple. There is excellent power to the lush, even opulent flavors that enjoy excellent mid-palate concentration and the abundant dry extract imparts a textured mouth feel to the mouth coating, dry and long finish. Like the Boudriotte, the naturally higher acidity of the 2010 vintage adds a touch of vibrancy to what can often be a heavy white

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Coche Dury 1999 Corton Charlemagne 1 Bottle 75cl
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  • 1999
    Corton-Charlemagne
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 97
     
    Tasting note: (with thanks to Herwig Janssen and Hal Borthwick). While there is noticeable reduction, it does not materially impede the amazing nose that explodes from the glass with spice, intense minerality and green apple scents. The '99 is a huge wine with muscular flavors of remarkable power that are underpinned by marvelous cut and an overtly austere finish of such length that I almost couldn't believe it. The balance here is perfect and this is without question one of the finest examples of Corton-Charlemagne that I have ever tasted. While this is very close to arriving at its apogee I would hold for another two years or so and drink over the next 20 as this is going to be a very long-term wine. Multiple and consistent notes.
     

Tasting Notes
97
White Burgundy Coche Dury 2009 Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres 2 Bottle 75cl
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White Burgundy Coche Dury 2011 Meursault Villages 2 Bottle 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2009 Batard Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2014 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 3 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot, M de Laguiche 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot, M de Laguiche 1 Case Mag
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2015
    Beaune "Clos des Mouches"  ♥
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 91
    Tasted: Jun 11, 2017
    Drink: 2021+
    Issue: 67
    Outstanding
    Producer note: I met this time with enologist and winemaker Jérôme Faure-Brac as well as Véronique Drouhin who collectively noted that the 2015 growing season "wasn't nearly as difficult as the prior seasons and particularly so with our parcels in the Côte de Beaune. You had to be really careful pruning the vines as the accumulated effects from three consecutive years of hail in the Côte de Beaune had made many of them quite fragile. We also had significantly different yields as they were normal in the Côte de Nuits but quite low in the Côte de Beaune. One of the really nice things about the vintage is how clean the fruit was and given that the harvest weather was so clement we could basically pick each parcel when we felt it was ready, a luxury that isn't always available. We were also super-vigilant about the pressing as we absolutely wanted to avoid the higher pHs that typically result from using the press juice. As such we vinified it separately and then, depending on the characteristics of the press wine, we incorporated it or, if we didn't like it, we sold it. We also did no lees stirring because it was clear from the beginning that the whites were going to be very rich. One of the interesting aspects of this vintage is how much the wines have changed over time as initially they seemed almost heavy and a bit flat at first but as the élevage progressed, they tightened up and actually became fresher and more focused. At that point we said that there was nothing further to be gained from keeping the wines in cask so we bottled the entire range between December 2016 and February 2017." I found the quality of the Drouhin 2015 whites to be generally better than what I found on balance elsewhere. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, USA; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Here the nose is quite firmly reduced so be sure to decant it if you're yearning to try a bottle upon release. On the plus side there is a really lovely texture to the elegant and vibrant medium weight flavors that possess very fine complexity on the highly persistent finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth.
     

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Fevre, William 2011 Chablis Les Preuses 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: If the Côte de Bouguerots is the biggest wine in 2011 then the Preuses is arguably the most aromatically complex with a broad ranging nose of perfumed and ripe scents of oyster shell, sea water, citrus and white flowers. The silky and refined flavors are wonderfully seductive with an intense minerality to the austere, bone dry and balanced finish that exudes hints of saline and iodine. In sum, this is flat out stunning. Note that there was a bit of post-bottling SO2 present so if you're going to try one young in the name of Science, I would suggest that you decant it for a few minutes first.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Fevre, William 2011 Chablis Clos 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Jadot 1999 Criots Batard Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Jadot 2006 Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: A wonderfully fresh, airy and bright nose of citrus and green apple aromas trimmed in a bit of wood spice complement perfectly the big, rich and gorgeously intense full-bodied flavors that also ooze with dry extract driven into a palate staining and explosively long finish. This is actually a beautifully elegant example with superb flavor authority and the purity of expression is flat out terrific. This will require some cellar time first as it is youthfully austere and backward at present.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Jadot 2008 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Jadot 2009 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles - owc 3x150 1 Case Mag
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  • A background note of wood mixes with very ripe yet fresh citrus and airy white flower aromas that are liberally sprinkled with wet stone notes that continue onto the rich, fleshy and mouth coating large-bodied and dense flavors that brim with a fine minerality on the explosive finish. There is plenty of dry extract yet this is not heavy and about the only nit is a perceptible touch of warmth. 93/2017+

    Score: 93Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (56), October 2014

Tasting Notes
93
White Burgundy Jadot 2009 Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Louis Jadot
    2009
    Montrachet
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jun 01, 2012
    Drink: 2019+
    Issue: 47
    Note: from Chassagne fruit
    Producer note: As is usually the case, I met with Jacques Lardière who is the technical director for Jadot. His take on the 2010 vintage was that “it didn’t start out well for us as we had considerable frost-related losses from the deep freeze that occurred in December 2009. Then, the flowering did not go well either, which further reduced yields, particularly in red. Then, we were hit by hail in August, primarily in Santenay though some in Chassagne as well. Ironically, the reduced crop loads basically saved the harvest in my view because otherwise given the cool summer weather we would never have achieved adequate ripeness levels. But I’m not joking when I say that yields were down as we were off some 50% in the Côte de Nuits where we had the worst of the frost damage and around 40% overall. We picked one vineyard on the 17th of September and then stopped before recommencing on the 22nd. The crop was exceptionally clean in the Côte de Nuits but a bit less so in the Côte de Beaune as there was more rain in the southern part. The wet weather however helped preserve the malic acidity and this helps to explain why the 2010 whites are so fresh and lively.” (Kobrand, Inc., www.kobrandwine.com, NY, NY; Hatch Mansfield Ltd., www.hatchmansfield.com, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, both UK).
    Tasting note: An adroit application of wood easily allows the very ripe and moderately exotic and highly complex nose of roasted nuts, yellow orchard fruit and spice hints to express itself. There is outstanding richness, body, size and weight to the impressively scaled flavors that coat the palate with seemingly endless reserves of dry extract before culminating in an impressively long finish. This is a big and opulent Montrachet that is perhaps a bit less refined than I'm used to seeing, yet one that possesses the underlying structure to reward extended aging if desired yet it will be unusually approachable young.
     

Tasting Notes
93
White Burgundy Jadot 2011 Chassagne 1er Cru La Romanee 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: There is a very mild hint of exoticism to the broad-ranging nose of pear, lemon peel, spice, dried apricot and green apple. There is absolutely stunning complexity to the exceptionally rich and intense flavors that exude a fine minerality on the gorgeously persistent, very dry and impeccably well-balanced finish. This is seriously impressive and arguably the best 1er in the entire range in 2011.

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Jadot 2011 Chevalier Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: An ultra-pure, beautifully complex and high-toned nose of wet stone, spiced pear and acacia blossom and green apple is trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The markedly stony broad-shouldered and tautly muscular flavors possess almost painful intensity on the crystalline and explosively long finish. 2011 is a vintage where the Demoiselles is bigger than it typically is yet there is absolutely no loss of refinement or elegance. This is definitely going to require time in bottle but it should more than be worth the wait.

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Jadot 2011 Batard Montrachet 3 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: A ripe if youthfully reticent nose of acacia blossom, white peach and a pretty array of citrus aromas is trimmed in enough wood toast and sulfur nuances to notice. There is very fine richness to the imposingly full-bodied and powerful flavors that brim with dry extract which confers a wonderfully textured, indeed almost chewy mouth feel onto the palate coating yet markedly dry finish. This is extraordinary in its ability to deliver such impressive size and weight while retaining very good precision. In sum this is very Bâtard but it's an elegant version of the appellation. Note that while this should allow for up to a decade of development it is not especially reserved and should be approachable after only 4 to 5 years of cellar time which it will need so the wine can add depth.

Tasting Notes
93

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