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White Burgundy

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CSV
Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Case Size Format Price Note Rating
White Burgundy Blain, Marc-Antonin 2017 Batard Montrachet 1 Bottle 75cl £165£140
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2010 Chevalier Montrachet 2 Bottle 75cl £690
  • Maison Henri Boillot
    2010
    Chevalier-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jun 01, 2012
    Drink: 2022+
    Issue: 47
    Don't miss!
    Producer note: Henri Boillot continues to make stunning wines from his négociant operation and he has arguably become the finest pure négoce specializing in white burgundy today; yes there are other very fine négociants but the huge majority of them are really domaines hidden inside a "Maison" facade that buy in fruit or must to supplement their proprietary wines. See the comments for Domaine Henri Boillot (above). (Chelsea Ventures, LLC, www.chelseaventures.us, Chicago, IL; Enotria Wine Cellars Ltd., www.enotria.co.uk, Lea & Sandeman, www.leaandsandeman.co.uk and Georges Barbier, all UK).
    Tasting note: True to the appellation, this is wonderfully elegant with an airy, cool and attractively layered nose of various floral scents, citrus, especially lemon and lime along with the classic wet stone influences that continue onto the vibrant flavors of crystalline purity and delineation. Like the Bienvenues, this is almost painfully intense and the explosive and beautifully well-balanced finish seems to be constructed out of liquid rock. It's trite but true to observe that this extraordinarily long effort is class in a glass.
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2018 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 6 Bottle 150cl £880
  • The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru comes from a small band of 0.21 hectares above Montrachet. Curiously, it does not convey the same complexity as the regular Chevalier-Montrachet on the nose. The palate is quite elegant, with a little more viscosity on the entry, a fine bead of acidity and a slightly honeyed texture on the finish. It is precise and poised, but again, does not equal the complexity of the Chevalier-Montrachet, which is advantaged by coming from all four terraces instead of a single plot.

    -- Neal Martin (92-94) Neal Martin 2023 - 2045 Not Available Jan 2020

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2018 Montrachet 1 Bottle 150cl £990
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2020 Corton Charlemagne 1 Case 6 75cl £980
White Burgundy Bouzereau 2012 Corton Clos des Fietres Blanc 2 Case 6 75cl £330
White Burgundy Boyer-Martenot 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 6 Bottle 75cl £60
  • Domaine Boyer-Martenot
    2018
    Meursault "Les Charmes"
    1er Cru White barrel
    Score: 90-92
    Tasted: Jun 10, 2020
    Drink: 2026+
    Issue: 79
    Note: from 3 different parcels
    Producer note: The always laconic Vincent Boyer offered a short summation of the 2018 vintage by noting that "the growing season began on the early side and while it was wet early on, conditions rapidly turned hot and dry where they largely remained until the harvest. We chose to begin picking on the 28th of August and brought in super-clean and ripe fruit that had good sugars if low-ish acidities. Still, because the pHs were normal, the wines preserved a lovely sense of freshness. They're not exactly classic but neither are they too ripe or heavy. They should drink well on the early side, but I see no reason why they won't be reasonably age-worthy." As I noted last year, Boyer is progressively implementing various changes to his approaches to vinification and élevage. These include adding no SO2 until the malos have finished, doing no lees stirring and extending the total period of élevage to 24 months. For this latter modification, Boyer intends to split the 24 months into two periods where the wines are left in 5 to 8-year-old wood for 12 months and then another 12 months in large egg shaped foudres. In two other changes, Boyer said that the domaine is in the process of converting to organic viticulture with the goal of being certified as such for the 2021 harvest. Secondly, all wines will now be bottled with wax capsules as another form of protection. (North Berkeley Imports, www.northberkeleyimports.com, CA, Skurnik Wines, www.skurnik.com, NY, Vintner Select, www.vintnerselect.com, OH, all USA; Charles Taylor Wines, www.charlestaylorwines.com, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, UK; Racines, www.racines-japan.com, Japan).
    Tasting note: A wide-ranging if slightly leesy nose offers up notes of citrus blossom, pear, apple and a hint of hazelnut. There is a lovely sense of vibrancy to the sappy and denser medium weight flavors that exhibit a subtle minerality on the more complex and persistent finale. Again, my rating assumes that the leesy note will dissipate once the wine is prepared for bottling.
     

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Chavy, Alain 2018 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 1 Case 12 75cl £560
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2008 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1 Bottle 300cl £375
  • Tasting note: A very subtle reductive character knocks down the expressiveness of the lemon and pretty white flower aromas so I would strongly suggest decanting this for 20 to 30 minutes first. The detailed, pure and lightly mineral-driven flavors possess really lovely balance and fine length. If there is a nit it is that this doesn't possess the complexity of the best 1ers here though the track record of this wine is such that I wouldn't bet against it developing materially more complexity in the bottle.

Tasting Notes
90
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2013 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 1 Case 6 75cl £585
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2018 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles 7 Case 6 75cl £590
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2019 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1 Case 6 75cl £530
  • Blanc Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru

    The 2019 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru, which is a selection from six different tries through the vineyard, has an intense nose, slightly Alsace-like in style thanks to a hint of linseed oil intermingling with yellow plum and orange blossom. The palate is well balanced with a tensile opening. Lovely orange pith and nectarine notes here. Not a voluminous wine, but very focused on the finish. Excellent. 

    -- Neal Martin (91-93) Neal Martin 2022 - 2036 Not Available Dec 2020

Tasting Notes
93
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Embazees 1 Case 6 75cl £440
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2020 Beaune 1er Cru, Clos des Mouches Blanc 5 Case 6 75cl £600
  • (94-97) pts Jasper Morris MW
    “Pale lemon colour. The power is immediately apparent on the nose, but in a good way. A wine for longer elevage before bottling and then worth the wait in bottle thereafter. This has all the expected volume of white fruit while retaining impeccable balance. Adds depth with time in the glass, before reaching quite a saline finish. A very youthful but impressive Clos des Mouches. I recently enjoyed a stunning bottle of the 2017, and this could very well match it in due course. ”

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Fevre, William 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 5 Case 6 75cl £430
  • The holding comprises 2.5 ha planted between 1947 and 1952 and all still in great condition. Pale lemon colour. The nose is restrained but you are immediately in the presence of majesty. This has the most volume of all but is not the easiest to see. It has more flesh than Les Preuses, along with a different but equal mineral vitality to Côte Bouguerots The two together make something exceptional! Tasted: May 2019
    Full information

    Score: 95/97 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, May 2019

    The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another obvious success, mingling aromas of citrus and citrus confit with hints of beeswax, peach and pear in an inviting bouquet. Full-bodied, muscular and layered, it's textural and fleshy, with a deep and tightly wound core, racy acids and a chalky finish. This is a fine effort that will improve with bottle age, but it is a bit more front-loaded out of the gates than the very fine 2017 rendition.

    Score: 95 William Kelley, RobertParker.com, July 2020

    Aromas of waxy lemon rind, dried flowers and peaches preface the 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, a full-bodied, ample and muscular wine that's deep, powerful and reserved. While it's early days to make a definitive judgement, it's obviously very promising.

    Score: 93/95 William Kelley, RobertParker.com, August 2019

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Fevre, William 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2 Case 6 75cl £545
White Burgundy Gagnard, Jean Noel 2010 Chassagne 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroye 5 Bottle 75cl £60
  • Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
    2010
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Maltroie" 1er
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 91
    Tasted: Jun 01, 2012
    Drink: 2016+
    Issue: 47
    Producer note: The always candid Richard Fontaine, whose daughter Céline has now joined him at the domaine, described 2010 as a "difficult year. We began by losing a fair number of pinot vines due to the severe frost of December 2009. I would estimate the damage at close to 20% and this combined with the poor flowering in June reduced yields for our whites and reds between 20 and 50% depending on the sector. We began picking on the 21st of September and the fruit was really pretty clean and didn't necessitate much sorting. I've been doing this for a long time now and I was almost certain that we were going to produce hard and ungracious wines but in fact they are ripe wines of great purity and grace. It just goes to show you that you can never be certain of anything when it comes to wine." (JAO Wine Imports, www.jaowineimports.com, McLean, VA and Polaner Selections, www.polanerselections.com, Mt. Kisco, NY; Diva Beaune S.A.S., www.divawine.com, Beaune, France; John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, and Majestic Wine Warehouses, www.majestic.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: There is a just enough reduction to slightly impede an appreciation of the yellow orchard fruit and earth aromas that give way to attractively textured, intense and lightly mineral-inflected flavors. There is a juicy, even opulent mouth feel that extends to the relatively dry and persistent finish that delivers excellent complexity. My score assumes that the reduction will recede with bottle age.
     

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Hospices de Beaune 2012 Pouilly Fuisse Cuvee Francoise Poisard 1 Case 6 75cl £160
White Burgundy Hospices de Beaune 2012 Pouilly Fuisse Cuvee Francoise Poisard 1 Case 12 75cl £320
White Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2015 Batard Montrachet 1 Case 6 75cl £1,325£1,250
  • Tasting note: Notes of honey, petrol, white orchard fruit and various floral scents serve as an elegant introduction to the caressing and wonderfully seductive big-bodied flavors that display both excellent volume and power on the muscular, dense and superbly persistent finale. This is not an especially refined vintage for this wine but should mature into a real beauty if given a chance.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2015 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles 2 Case 6 75cl £1,625
  • Tasting note: Reduction presently flattens the underlying fruit. On the plus side there is excellent size, weight and punch to the generously proportioned, powerful and tautly muscular flavors that reflect both plenty of minerality and dry extract before concluding in an almost thick yet balanced finale that delivers first-rate length. 2015 is not a particularly elegant vintage for this wine but once again, there is no lack of character.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2016 Batard Montrachet 2 Case 6 75cl £1,275
  • Strong reduction masks the fruit at present. On the plus side there is lovely verve and freshness to the rich and full-bodied yet, curiously, even finer flavors that are very tightly wound thanks to the firm core of citrus-tinged acidity shaping the serious, classy and hugely impressively persistent finish. This too is definitely going to require extended cellaring before it reaches its peak. Drink 2028+

    Score: 91/94 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (71), June 2018

    Cask sample. Oak more evident here than on the Corton-Charlemagne. More spice and cedar on the nose and palate. Has a definite sour/citrus creamy freshness but seems less subtle than the Corton. Just a touch sour on the aftertaste; big and long. Drink between 2024-2030.

    Score: 17.5 Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, November 2017

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2012 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 3 75cl £4,200
  • Domaine Leflaive
    2012
    Chevalier-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White barrel
    Score: 93-96
    Tasted: Jun 15, 2014
    Drink: 2027+
    Issue: 55
    Don't miss! 
    Producer note: Régisseur (estate manager) Eric Remy told me that 2012 began "relatively early as there was growth as early as the end of March, though April was cold and humid which slowed the vegetative process considerably. May however was more clement if still humid and the growth recommenced with vigor. We saw the first flowers around the 8th or 9th of June but yet again the temperatures were cool with wet weather that caused a tremendous amount of shatter with obvious repercussions for yields. Then the first hail storm hit us on the 30th of June and caused some damage in the grands crus. The second hail storm fell on the 1st of August and while the damage was less severe in the grands crus it was much worse in the parcels that had largely been spared in the June storm. Perhaps the worst of all though was the sunburn from the intense heat that occurred in the last week of July. If you add everything up we were down around 50% compared to a normal vintage though it varied from wine to wine as some were down only 35% whereas certain others were off on the order of 65%. This works out to an average of about 23 hl/ha, which no matter how you look at it isn't much. We picked from the 14th to the 20th of September under perfect conditions and while there was certainly some sorting to do it was less than I imagined it would be. Sugars and acidities were very good; in fact the post pH malos ranged from 3.05 to 3.2, which means that the 2012s are certainly not soft! Overall I really like the vintage and it's surprisingly good given all of the travails that we endured to produce it." I agree with Remy's take on the Leflaive 2012s and the relatively early picking date is clearly reflected in the freshness and vibrancy of the wines, indeed they are almost atypically vibrant. Remy noted that the 2011s, some revisited below, were bottled between April and June 2013. I direct your attention as well to the wines of Leflaive & Associés that are reviewed below. (Wilson & Daniels, www.wilsondaniels.com, St. Helena, CA; John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk and Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, both UK).
    Tasting note: A trace of reduction detracts only marginally from the appeal of the otherwise pretty and mildly exotic aromas of acacia blossom, pear, mandarin orange and wet stone aromas. The delicious, gorgeously elegant and pure imposingly-scaled flavors possess a silky palate impression on the concentrated, explosive and stunningly long finish that seems to be composed of liquid rock and a very firm spine of citrus-inflected acidity. This is a very big, indeed even huge Chevalier that is overtly powerful and one that should age effortlessly for decades. In sum this is an old school vintage for the Leflaive Chevalier so I would suggest buying it only with the clear intention of cellaring it for the long-term.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Leflaive V. 2018 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1 Case 3 75cl £2,200
  • Rating

    (93 - 95)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    NA

    Reviewed by

     William Kelley

    Issue Date

    9th Jan 2020

    Source

    January 2020 Week 2, The Wine Advocate

    Aromas of pear, mandarin oil, white flowers and warm bread introduce Leflaive's 2018 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered wine that's textural and muscular, with a lively spine of acidity and a long, mineral finish.

    While many producers along the Côte de Beaune were inclined to accept the generous yields of the 2018 as nature's gift, arguing that Chardonnay can sustain an elevated crop without suffering dilution, Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent told me that they opted to perform an aggressive green harvest, jettisoning around 40% of the potential crop. The result is a charming set of wines with good depth and structure that's nicely differentiated by site, though the wines were still quite introverted when I visited in November. Brice de La Morandière compares them unfavorably to the 2017s, and certainly the 2018s appear to be less tensile and vibrant. But in some quarters, the same criticism was made of the domaine's 1982s—another abundant harvest of ripe grapes—and today, the 1982 Leflaive wines are still drinking brilliantly. So, I am not giving up on the 2018s just yet. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent have made a number of important changes in winemaking practices at the domaine beginning with the 2017 vintage, I was disappointed that they declined to show those wines from bottle. Tasting wines in the midst of their élevage can be informative, certainly, but there is no substitute for tasting finished wines from bottle—an argument I expand on in the introduction to this report. And when a domaine of Leflaive's importance makes notable changes in their winemaking practices, revisiting the resulting wines from bottle is of more than usual interest. Given that de La Morandière and Vincent appear to be doing everything right to rehabilitate the reputation of Domaine Leflaive, I was a little surprised, and I will make effort to taste this watershed vintage from bottle one way or another in the near future.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Mischief & Mayhem 2015 Corton Charlemagne 1 Case 6 75cl £650
White Burgundy Pillot, Jean-Marc 2018 Chassagne 1er Cru Les Baudines 3 Case 12 75cl £595
  • Jean-Marc Pillot
    2018
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Baudines"  ♥
    1er Cru White barrel
    Score: 91-93
    Tasted: Jun 10, 2020
    Drink: 2024+
    Issue: 79
    Sweet spot Outstanding 
    Producer note: Jean-Marc Pillot runs this 12 ha domaine in which the production is split roughly 50/50 between reds and whites, noted that 2018 threw a "very difficult spring at us as it was wet and warm so it had the ideal conditions for a vicious attack of mildew, which in fact occurred. But these days it's not so much that mildew can't be contained if you properly treat but when it's as wet as it was, it made getting into the vineyards to make those treatments very difficult. We had an abundant fruit set and an excellent flowering, all of which is good for quantity and uniform maturities. After the tough spring, conditions completely changed and become hot, dry and clement. The dryness was an issue for some parcels and particularly so for those with young vines or those situated in Chassagne as there was definitely less summertime rain here as opposed to communes more to the north or say in Puligny with its higher water table. We picked from the 1st to the 8th of September and brought in very clean fruit that had thick skins due to the heat. I pressed softly as there was plenty of juice in the berries and I wanted to be sure not to extract much potassium which of course has the effect of raising the pHs. Normally this isn't an issue but the pre-malo pHs were already in the 3.26 to 3.3 range, so I definitely didn't not want to raise them further. As it turns out, this was less of a problem post-malo than I feared because the amount of malic acidity was so low. Potential alcohols were very good, and nothing was chaptalized in either color. As to the whites, they are frankly a huge surprise as I definitely did not expect such fine balance and energy plus the terroir transparency is also better than I had hoped." I was also impressed with Pillot's whites and while they can't quite match his excellent 2017s, they are still very good, and a few are outstanding. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, www.madrose.com, NY, USA; Champagnes et Châteaux, www.champagnesandchateaux.co.uk, UK; Pearl of Burgundy, www.pearlofburgundy.com, Hong Kong and Macau; Shanghai Vinchamp International Trading Co. Ltd., www.vinchamp.com, Shanghai, China).
    Tasting note: Cool, pure and reticent aromas offer up notes of mineral reduction, lemon grass and essence of green apple. The mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is finer if not quite as concentrated with even more minerality that become increasingly more prominent as the clean and bone-dry finish sits on the palate. As is usually the case, this is a Baudines of finesse.
     

Tasting Notes
92
CSV