White Burgundy

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Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Size Price Note Rating
White Burgundy Amiot, Guy 2003 Chassagne 1er Cru Caillerets 1 Case 75cl
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  • Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils
    2003
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Caillerets"
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 88
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2005
    Drink: 2007+
    Issue: 19
    Note: from two parcels, one of 30 year old vines and another of 70 year old vines planted on le vrai chardonnay
    Producer note: Thierry Amiot told me that 2003 isn't a "bad millésime but it didn't seem very interesting at first. The élevage wasn't linear or regular - each wine had its own personality and we had to treat each one individually. We started the harvest on August 18th but we harvested over the course of an entire month as we tried to harvest each parcel at its optimum ripeness level. Yields were quite low at around 32 hl/ha in white, mainly because Chassagne was really hit hard by frost, especially in the lower lying vineyards. Sugars were in the 13.5% range but I think they were that "low" only because the vines shut down; otherwise, we might have seen sugars in the 15%+ range. The vines jump started again around the 19th of August because there was a big storm which hit St. Aubin and while no rain fell in Chassagne, all the water ran downhill from St. Aubin and flooded our vineyards. This helped enormously and essentially unblocked the vines. Because of the reduced yields, I used a bit more new oak than usual as well as more SO2 and I bottled with slightly higher levels of gas. As to acidification, we did acidify but it was bit by bit and only until I could taste it and then we stopped immediately. There was no point in trying to deny the impact of the vintage and all the acid additions were meant to do was ensure a clean and healthy fermentation environment. The wines will probably drink well early but it won't surprise me if they wind up aging reasonably well." Like many domaines did, Amiot bottled his whites with decidedly higher gas and SO2 levels. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; Boston Wine Company, Boston, MA; Lea & Sandeman, H&H Bancroft, Rare & Fine Wine, House of Townend, all UK).
    Tasting note: Sweet, vanilla and spice-infused oak notes frame very fresh and higher-toned peach and white flower fruit aromas that give way to toasty, intense and long flavors that display much more of the classic minerality than any of the prior examples. This is a powerful wine that departs from its normal character but remains attractive in its fashion - just don't expect a typical Caillerets experience. I suspect this will age for up to a decade.
     

Tasting Notes
88
White Burgundy Amiot, Guy 2003 Chassagne 1er Cru Les Vergers 1 Case 75cl
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  • Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils
    2003
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Vergers"
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 87
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2005
    Drink: 2006+
    Issue: 19
    Note: from 70+ year old vines on original chardonnay plant material - Amiot calls this le vrai chardonnay or the true chardonnay
    Producer note: Thierry Amiot told me that 2003 isn't a "bad millésime but it didn't seem very interesting at first. The élevage wasn't linear or regular - each wine had its own personality and we had to treat each one individually. We started the harvest on August 18th but we harvested over the course of an entire month as we tried to harvest each parcel at its optimum ripeness level. Yields were quite low at around 32 hl/ha in white, mainly because Chassagne was really hit hard by frost, especially in the lower lying vineyards. Sugars were in the 13.5% range but I think they were that "low" only because the vines shut down; otherwise, we might have seen sugars in the 15%+ range. The vines jump started again around the 19th of August because there was a big storm which hit St. Aubin and while no rain fell in Chassagne, all the water ran downhill from St. Aubin and flooded our vineyards. This helped enormously and essentially unblocked the vines. Because of the reduced yields, I used a bit more new oak than usual as well as more SO2 and I bottled with slightly higher levels of gas. As to acidification, we did acidify but it was bit by bit and only until I could taste it and then we stopped immediately. There was no point in trying to deny the impact of the vintage and all the acid additions were meant to do was ensure a clean and healthy fermentation environment. The wines will probably drink well early but it won't surprise me if they wind up aging reasonably well." Like many domaines did, Amiot bottled his whites with decidedly higher gas and SO2 levels. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; Boston Wine Company, Boston, MA; Lea & Sandeman, H&H Bancroft, Rare & Fine Wine, House of Townend, all UK).
    Tasting note: A fresh but emphatically toasty nose leads to sweet, round, fat and generous peach and apricot-infused flavors that are very forward yet retain good intensity and solid balance. The acidity pokes through somewhat on the medium length finish but it's noticeable rather than really intrusive.
     

Tasting Notes
87
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2009 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: This is also quite ripe but less overtly so and remains notably more elegant with its expressive nose of honeysuckle, acacia blossom, pear and apple aromas. In accordance with the superior freshness, there is a bit more energy as well with a solid acid spine shaping the delicious and extract-rich medium weight plus flavors that possess excellent density on the vibrant, mouth coating and strikingly long finish. In a word, terrific.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2014 Puligny 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchere - 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Domaine Henri Boillot
    2014
    Puligny-Montrachet "Clos de la Mouchère"  ♥
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Jun 15, 2016
    Drink: 2026+
    Issue: 63
    Outstanding
    Note: from 60+ year old vines and the vineyard is a whopping 4 ha monopole within Perrières
    Producer note: I have been visiting Henri Boillot for more than 15 years now and it seems that with each passing vintage when I discuss with him which of the "big three" communes performed the best, two things are increasingly clear: the first is that he always believes that Puligny has outperformed Meursault and Chassagne and the second is that he is becoming increasingly disenchanted with the quality that he finds in Chassagne, in fact to the point that he will no longer offer any wines, with the exception of grands crus, from the commune. As to the 2014 vintage Boillot observed that "the style reminds me of a combination of 2008 and 2010 as it has the energy of the former allied with the precision of the latter. Given that the hail hit the northern side of Meursault we essentially had no damage or losses of any consequence. We did have some yield problems in Meursault as the flowering was less successful there than in Puligny. I very much like the purity of the 2014s and while I have heard some criticize them for having pHs that are too high we certainly didn't have that problem as none of our wines finished above 3.2. I believe that the '14s are going to age well but also for a very long time." Note that all of the Boillot 2014s from both the domaine and maison (see immediately below) were bottled in December 2015. (Chelsea Ventures, LLC, www.chelseaventures.us, Chicago, IL, Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa CA; Enotria Winecellars Ltd., www.enotria.co.uk, Lea & Sandeman, www.leaandsandeman.co.uk, and Georges Barbier of London, www.georgesbarbier.co.uk, both UK).
    Tasting note: This is sufficiently reduced that it presently masks the fruit and if you're tempted to try a bottle in its youth I would strongly advise decanting it first. Otherwise there is outstanding density to the focused and powerful middle weight plus flavors that stain the palate with dry extract that also helps to buffer the intensely mineral-driven finale that just goes on for minutes. This is flat out brilliant though note that it will not be an early drinker. In sum, this is a genuine 'wow' wine.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2016 Puligny 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchere 3 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: A highly restrained nose requires considerable swirling to liberate the beautifully well-layered aromas of mineral reduction, white rose, spice, citrus and a wisp of exotic tea. Like the Pucelles there is excellent richness and detail and much more minerality-suffusing the almost painfully intense finale that is breathtaking in its persistence. This is a gem of a Puligny 1er and in 2016 is a lovely blend of power and finesse. In sum, this is a knockout.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2006 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: Prost was, justifiably, extremely proud of this wine and observed that it may be the best "straight" Chevalier that he's ever made. Not surprisingly, this is a good deal more elegant than the Bâtard with gorgeously pure floral and white fruit, stone and subtle spice aromas that seamlessly merge into the almost painfully intense and vibrant flavors that, like the Perrières, possess crystalline purity and huge length. This is a knockout Chevy and if you can find it, don't miss it.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2008 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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  • Producer note: Stéphane Arbelet and Philippe Prost, Bouchard's managing director and winemaker respectively, noted that 2008 "presented many challenges climactically speaking. Depending on the sector, there was heavy rain, hail, wide temperature swings and various kinds of rot. We began picking in the Côte de Beaune on the 24th of September with the pinot and because of the cool and dry conditions, we were able to harvest the chardonnay slowly and deliberately, in fact we did not finish until the 6th of October. The chardonnay was healthy and quite clean and while there was some sorting required, it was minimal. The yields in tonnage were lower than in 2007 but because of the dehydrating effects of the persistent north wind, the realized yield in juice was much lower. Ripeness levels were generally very good though they did vary by sector and particularly by altitude. In terms of the wines, they have everything they need to be very long lived, which is to say vibrant acidity, ample concentration and exceptional freshness." Both Arbelet and Prost were exceptionally high on the quality of their '08 whites and their enthusiasm was born out by the quality of what I saw here. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: This is also wonderfully elegant with high-toned, pure and airy aromas of white flower, light toast, spiced pear and a hint of green apple that gives way to supple yet detailed mineral-suffused middle weight flavors that are perhaps even more refined than those of the Perrières, all wrapped in a balanced, stylish and lingering finish. As good as this is, and it is very good, it's not necessarily leagues better than its junior partner, just different though it will most likely require a few more years to reach its apogee.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Batard Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 3 Bottle Mag
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  • Tasting note: Here the nose displays noticeable sulfur and it's enough to knock down the expressiveness of the otherwise attractively ripe and complex aromas that are compositionally similar to those of the Chevalier. The textured, concentrated and overtly muscular flavors brim with an abundance of dry extract before concluding in an explosively long, mouth coating and almost painfully intense finish. As is often the case, the 2010 La Cabotte displays characteristics of both the Montrachet and the Chevalier and this is one beautiful wine. Note that I do not expect the sulfur to be an issue as the wine ages though if you're tempted to try a bottle young it would be good to decant it first.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 1 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
    2012
    Chevalier-Montrachet "La Cabotte"
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jun 15, 2014
    Drink: 2022+
    Issue: 55
    Don't miss!
    Note: Bouchard has been separately vinifying this parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Prost jokingly refers to this parcel as "Montrachet du haute pente", or upper slope Montrachet
    Producer note: Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, did not hold back when he called the 2012 vintage "the most difficult vintage that I have ever had to vinify primarily because of the wildly variable weather patterns we had in the Côte during the growing season. We had everything from perfect fruit to compromised fruit and when the fruit was compromised, it was compromised in different ways. It is of course possible to rigorously sort and of course we do that at Bouchard but even so it doesn't necessarily mean that the quality of your raw materials isn't going to vary from one terroir to another. And it is this aspect that I personally found so challenging, which is basically another way of saying that it was necessary to try to evaluate how good those specific raw materials were and then adapt your vinification strategy to that vision. Moreover, we were concerned that the picking dates weren't going to follow their normal progression as we were afraid that we might have a free fall in acidity among certain of our better white wine terroirs. As it turned out, that wasn't at all the case but the problem is that you don't know that in advance so you have to try and prepare for anything and everything. Another prime example of modifying your strategy according to your assessment of the raw materials is that we almost never destem our whites yet in 2012 we decided to remove about 30% of them so as to potentially avoid having vegetal aromas and flavors. [Bouchard did this in 2011 as well.] Most of the vinifications for the white went as they should though we did have a few of them that had difficulty finishing the sugars though in the end everything finished completely dry. One thing that we did not change though is our policy of doing zero lees stirring because it seemed clear from the beginning that the 2012s were going to rich and full-bodied. As to the wines it's interesting because I am much more enthusiastic today about the whites than I was initially. They were good but didn't seem to have that spark and extra-dimension that makes great white burgundy great. Then little by little during the élevage process they awoke and today I really like them. In terms of other vintage comparisons I might suggest a slightly more acidic 1992 or a more concentrated version of 2004." Prost noted that the production of whites in 2012 was off about 30% which is roughly what Bouchard produced in 2010. The 2012s were bottled between July and December 2013. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: A reserved nose is pure, cool and airy with its notes of spiced pear, citrus blossom and mineral reduction. There is genuinely striking intensity to the gorgeously detailed medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the driving and explosively persistent finish. This is a very powerful and concentrated effort that should offer terrific upside development potential and easily last for two decades.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Puligny 1er Cru Combettes 5 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Corton Charlemagne 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Chevalier Montrachet (Domaine) 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 2 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2016 Meursault - Domaine 3 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouzereau 2011 Corton Clos des Fietres 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouzereau 2012 Corton Clos des Fietres 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bruno Colin 2010 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot 1 Bottle Jeroboam
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  • Tasting note: Relatively heavy sulfur knocks down the nose though aggressive swirling coaxes a solidly complex array of both white and yellow fruit aromas that include pear, apricot, peach and apple. There is excellent power to the lush, even opulent flavors that enjoy excellent mid-palate concentration and the abundant dry extract imparts a textured mouth feel to the mouth coating, dry and long finish. Like the Boudriotte, the naturally higher acidity of the 2010 vintage adds a touch of vibrancy to what can often be a heavy white.

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2009 Batard Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2013 Puligny 1er Cru Les Pucelles 1 Case Mag
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2014 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche 1 Case Mag
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  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2014
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Morgeot" Marquis de Laguiche  ♥
    1er Cru White barrel
    Score: 91-93
    Tasted: Jun 15, 2016
    Drink: 2022+
    Issue: 63
    Outstanding
    Note: from Le Grand Clos and Vignes Blanches
    Producer note: Véronique Drouhin noted that the 2014 growing season "wasn't as difficult as that of 2013 but with the hail in the Côte de Beaune and the Suzukii flies in the Côte de Nuits it didn't lack for challenges. The season began propitiously with an almost summer-like spring that turned into an autumnal-like summer that was then followed by a summer-like fall. It was a rather curious succession of different kinds of weather that was punctuated by the late June hailstorm that was thankfully early enough that it had more impact on quantity than quality. We began picking on the 11th of September and the sorting requirements varied by parcel but very generally the fruit was pretty clean so there was less overall sorting than usual. We modified our use of whole cluster between none in the Côte de Beaune due to the hail to around 25% in the Côte de Nuits. I believe that our decision to attack the harvest a few days earlier paid dividends as the whites have better acidity than usual but not too much. Moreover while many observers seem fixated by how good the whites are, which in fairness they are excellent, but I believe that the quality of the reds is grossly underestimated. They have everything they need to also be very fine and while 2014 is not a genuinely great vintage for the reds, it's at least very good to excellent. A few years from now I think collectors are going to be very surprised by just how good they are." I noted in Issue 62 that I was extremely impressed by the quality of the Drouhin reds and I would make the same observation about their 2014 whites and this is true from the entry level wines to the very top of the range. Drouhin noted that the whites were bottled between November 2015 and January 2016. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, NY; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: A completely different aromatic profile is present here with its smoky array of earth, resin and various white orchard fruit scents. On the palate it's immediately clear that this is a big wine with impressive mid-palate concentration and overt power that continues onto the mouth coating and balanced finish that is very solidly structured. This won't win any awards for elegance but it absolutely avoids the heaviness that Morgeot can often display. Moderate patience required.
     

Tasting Notes
93
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2014 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 3 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot, M de Laguiche 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot, M de Laguiche 1 Case Mag
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Beaune Clos des Mouches 3 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2015
    Beaune "Clos des Mouches"  ♥
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 91
    Tasted: Jun 11, 2017
    Drink: 2021+
    Issue: 67
    Outstanding
    Producer note: I met this time with enologist and winemaker Jérôme Faure-Brac as well as Véronique Drouhin who collectively noted that the 2015 growing season "wasn't nearly as difficult as the prior seasons and particularly so with our parcels in the Côte de Beaune. You had to be really careful pruning the vines as the accumulated effects from three consecutive years of hail in the Côte de Beaune had made many of them quite fragile. We also had significantly different yields as they were normal in the Côte de Nuits but quite low in the Côte de Beaune. One of the really nice things about the vintage is how clean the fruit was and given that the harvest weather was so clement we could basically pick each parcel when we felt it was ready, a luxury that isn't always available. We were also super-vigilant about the pressing as we absolutely wanted to avoid the higher pHs that typically result from using the press juice. As such we vinified it separately and then, depending on the characteristics of the press wine, we incorporated it or, if we didn't like it, we sold it. We also did no lees stirring because it was clear from the beginning that the whites were going to be very rich. One of the interesting aspects of this vintage is how much the wines have changed over time as initially they seemed almost heavy and a bit flat at first but as the élevage progressed, they tightened up and actually became fresher and more focused. At that point we said that there was nothing further to be gained from keeping the wines in cask so we bottled the entire range between December 2016 and February 2017." I found the quality of the Drouhin 2015 whites to be generally better than what I found on balance elsewhere. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, USA; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Here the nose is quite firmly reduced so be sure to decant it if you're yearning to try a bottle upon release. On the plus side there is a really lovely texture to the elegant and vibrant medium weight flavors that possess very fine complexity on the highly persistent finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth.
     

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2016 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Ente 2013 Meursault Clos des Ambres 2 Bottle Mag
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  • Domaine Arnaud Ente
    2013
    Meursault - Clos des Ambres  ♥
    Villages White barrel
    Score: 89-91
    Tasted: Jun 15, 2015
    Drink: 2020+
    Issue: 59
    Outstanding
    Note: from vines situated in the very best part of En l'Ormeau that average 50 years of age
    Producer note: Arnaud Ente simply said "I really like the 2013s as they remind me quite a bit of the 2007s. We harvested from the 24th of September to the 1st of October and picked the whites early and the reds later. Our parcel of Santenots was hit by hail but most of the other parcels were largely spared. As to the wines, they have that underlying tension that makes them refreshing and inviting and I think that they're going to be very popular among those who love classically style wines, be they red or white." (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, www.kermitlynch.com, Berkeley, CA; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Like the Meursault villages cuvée there is a hint of matchstick to the green apple, lemon rind and white orchard fruit scents. There is seductive mouth feel to the generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors where additional lift is provided by the citrus-inflected acidity that is firm enough to suggest that this should be capable of rewarding 6 to 8 years of upside development potential.
     

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Faiveley 2016 Puligny Montrachet La Garenne 3 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Jadot 1999 Criots Batard Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Jadot 2006 Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: A wonderfully fresh, airy and bright nose of citrus and green apple aromas trimmed in a bit of wood spice complement perfectly the big, rich and gorgeously intense full-bodied flavors that also ooze with dry extract driven into a palate staining and explosively long finish. This is actually a beautifully elegant example with superb flavor authority and the purity of expression is flat out terrific. This will require some cellar time first as it is youthfully austere and backward at present.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Jadot 2008 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Jadot 2010 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles - owc 3x150 1 Case Mag
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  • Tasting note: A gorgeously elegant if highly restrained nose of citrus, acacia blossom and pungent wet stone aromas trimmed in just enough wood to notice is stunning. Not surprisingly, the medium-bodied flavors are much finer than those of the Bâtard or Corton-Charlemagne though not quite as big or powerful. The strikingly intense, lingering and impeccably well-balanced finish radiates minerality and the overall sense of harmony is flat out superb. A knockout, even by the incredible standards of this wine.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Jadot 2011 Chevalier Montrachet - owc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: An ultra-pure, beautifully complex and high-toned nose of wet stone, spiced pear and acacia blossom and green apple is trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The markedly stony broad-shouldered and tautly muscular flavors possess almost painful intensity on the crystalline and explosively long finish. 2011 is a vintage where the Demoiselles is bigger than it typically is yet there is absolutely no loss of refinement or elegance. This is definitely going to require time in bottle but it should more than be worth the wait.

Tasting Notes
94

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