White Bordeaux

Neal Martin

94

Served from an ex-chateau bottle. Picked in one trie, the 2003 Chateau d’Yquem is slightly deeper in color compared to the 2004. It is attired with an intriguing bouquet with Manuka honey, quince, honeycomb and a touch of nougat, though it does not have the pixilation of a top vintage. The palate is unctuous right from the start: gloopy in texture with hedonistic ripe honeyed fruit laced with orange zest and a strong spicy note on the finish. It has moderate length, but finishes with plenty of glycerine in the mouth. This is certainly the finest 2003 Sauternes.

Proprietor Berenice Lurton continues to turn out one of the utterly profound wines from the Barsac Sauternes region. The 2006 is not up there with their perfect 2001, but it is a beautiful wine and stands out as one of the top wines of 2006. Medium gold, with a slightly more advanced color than I am used to seeing in a young Climens, the wine displays waxy honeyed pineapple and delicate marmalade and citrus notes with a restrained use of new oak. The wine cuts a full-bodied swath across the palate with terrific acidity, freshness, and moderate sweetness. This is a beauty, but perhaps on a much faster evolutionary track than some of their greatest vintages.

Delivering 12.0% ABV and 200gms residual sugar, Denis Dubourdieu’s luxury Barsac, the 2007 L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daene, does not hold back, born with a lucid golden hue with big fat tears (of joy). The bouquet is very intense but very tight at first, demanding time to unfurl in the glass at its own pleasure: white peach, apricot, orange-blossom and a touch of marmalade with breathtaking definition. The palate is full-bodied with a viscous entry, so pure and caressing with mellifluous honey, apricot and citrus lemon, wonderful delineation on the finish, the thread of acidity interwoven through that powerful finish with the length of an ocean liner. Brilliant. Drink 2015-2050.

One of the outstanding successes of the 2009 vintage, this may surpass the superlative 2007. It has a more understated nose at the moment, but is very well defined with honey, white peach, orange peel and crushed stones. The palate has a viscous entry, is very well balanced, very powerful with great depth and effervescent minerality. Layers of botrytis layer across the mellifluous finish that is beautifully defined and sensuous. Fabulous.

Rounded and broad in feel for now, with richly layered toasted almond, ginger cream, brioche and glazed apple notes that all glide through the viscous finish, where a flash of green tea can be found. This has the buried zip for the long haul, which it will need to assimilate fully. There's lots in reserve. Best from 2015 through 2034. 4,165 cases made. Score: 95

NEAL MARTIN: 98-100

THE WINE ADVOCATE: 98-98

There are probably around seven casks of the 2009 L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daene, although that may decrease a little after racking. An equal blend of Semillon and Sauvignon, it delivers a record 220gms residual sugar and yet still exudes astounding minerality and precision, with touches of clear honey, frangipane and cold wet stones. The palate is full-bodied with a mellifluous texture, perfect acidity to slice through that rich botrytized fruit, stunning balance, citrus peel, apricot, Clementine, lemon curd and a hint of ginger. With awesome length, leaving that tingling sensation akin to Szechuan pepper, this wine truly lives up to its name. Wine Advocate.April, 2010

"This blockbuster blend of 62% Sauvignon Blanc and 38% Semillon has absolutely amazing texture, with superb lemon butter, crushed rock, quince and marmalade notes buttressed by hints of orange zest and citrus oil. Rich and full-bodied, with a sensational fragrance, this is an exquisite, full-throttle white to drink over the next 30+ years. Utterly profound!" 98+/100 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #199

THE WINE ADVOCATE: 94-96

JEANNIE CHO LEE MW: 94-96

JANCIS ROBINSON: 18

DECANTER:

Berenice Lurton and her team managed to pick the crop just hours before rains fell on October 23. Tasting through every one of their lots in 2010, there was a theme of tautness, racy acidity and spice. Focusing upon two batches representing about 14% of the harvest, there was patently exquisite balance and a sense of concentrated but efficient power, counterbalanced by immense purity and effervescence. Their problem will be knowing exactly which lots to deselect! Neal Martin, Wine Advocate May 2011

A stunning wine with hints of pineapple, caramelized citrus, mandarin oranges, smoky figs and hazelnuts, this is a full-bodied, rich, superb white Graves from the Cathiard family. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. Score: 95

This full-bodied blend of 54% Sauvignon Blanc and 46% Semillon has a level of concentration and intensity that makes it the dry white wine of the vintage. Loads of minerality, a hint of subtle spice, but mostly just pure orange marmalade, candle wax, honeysuckle and caramelized melons make for a full-bodied, distinctive style of wine to drink over the next 50+ years.

Score: 98 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205), March 2013

A blend of 54% Sauvignon Blanc and 46% Semillon, this singular, compelling white exhibits notes of orange blossoms, lemons, melons, crushed rocks, spice and flowers. It is a sensational, provocative, full-bodied dry white to enjoy over the next 40 years.

Score: 94/97 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (194), May 2011

Tasted at Chateau Haut-Brion. There is a slight floral aspect to the nose of the Haut Brion Blanc with hints of almond, white chocolate and fresh pear underpinned by fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp citric fruit on the opening. It is slightly more phenolic than recent vintages, just a hint of white pepper tingling on the tongue with a well-balanced finish that is persistent. Good potential. Tasted November 2012.

Score: 95 Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com, February 2013

The 2011 seems to be a close cousin of the 2001 and possibly 1988. Light gold, restrained but very pure, noble and intense bouquet of honeysuckle, caramelized apricot, white peach with a subtle hint of toasty oak. It builds slowly but beautifully to a full-bodied wine and long finish. This vintage is about restraint and perfect balance despite the 144 grams of residual sugar. Some vintages are more exuberant or flamboyant-2011 is racy and compelling. Of course these wines can be drunk young, but expect the 2011 to age for 50 -75+ years in a good cellar. Robert Parker, 15/9/13

Score: 97

A beautifully elegant and complex wine, with subtle notions of citrus, honeysuckle and tropical fruits, this medium-bodied, fresh, super-pure 2012 from Domaine de Chevalier should drink well for 30 or more years. The color is light straw with a greenish hue to it. Drink 2015-2025.

Score: 93+ Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (218), April 2015

A gorgeous effort, the 2012 Domaine de Chevalier, made from a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon that reached 13.5% natural alcohol, boasts abundant notes of creme brulee, lemon custard, candle wax and oranges in its beautifully rich, honeyed personality. Great acidity gives laser-like precision to its component parts. Drink this full-bodied white wine over the next 2-3 decades.

Score: 93/95 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (206), April 2013

Rating

(93 - 95)

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

NA

Reviewed by

Neal Martin

Issue Date

30th Apr 2014

Source

212, The Wine Advocate

The 2013 Coutet has one of the most complex aromatics you will find this year - a smorgasbord of citrus fruit, lime zest, orange blossom and white peach that is beautifully interwoven with compelling mineralite. The palate is extremely well-balanced, very intense and linear right from the start, with wonderful tension toward the finish that exhibits just a hint of spice. In other words, this is everything you expect from a great Coutet.