Vintage Port

Fonseca is one of the great port lodges, producing the most exotic and most complex port. If Fonseca lacks the sheer weight and power of a Taylor, Dow or Warre, or the opulent sweetness and intensity of a Graham, it excels in its magnificently complex, intense bouquet of plummy, cedary, spicy fruit and long, broad, expansive flavors. With its lush, seductive character, one might call it the Pomerol of Vintage ports. When it is young, it often loses out in blind tastings to the heavier, weightier, more tannic wines, but I always find myself upgrading my opinion of Fonseca after it has had 7-10 years of age. The 1977 has developed magnificently in the bottle, and while it clearly needs another decade to reach its summit, it is the best Fonseca since the 1970 and 1963.

“A troublesome vintage for many shippers, but Fonseca 1985 never fails to impress: tight-knit, dense and minty with a core of concentration and pure berry fruit. Succulent, wonderfully fresh and vibrant at 30 years old. Peacock’s tail of a finish. A real ‘wow’ of a wine that promises to last a lifetime.” 96 pts Richard Mayson

The 1985 vintage was preceded by an exceptionally cold, wet winter, with night temperatures well below freezing in early January. Berry set was excellent and the young bunches perfectly formed. The summer was hot throughout the region, with no rainfall during July and August. Fonseca picked earlier than most other shippers and the harvest was brought in under ideal conditions before the rain which fell later in the month of September. Conditions were ideal for fermentation resulting in must of exceptional colour and weight. Bottled in 1987. Round, rich and firm. Liquorice and freshness. (17.5 points)

Score: 17 - 18

Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2015-203004 October 2012

Deep crimson. Low key but well mannered nose. Thick, dry and clarety. Rather fine and serious and contained and compact. Yes! This one should run and run - real concentration and density. Lift and excitement. (18.5 points)

Score: 18 - 19

Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2015-203013 October 2004

Very dark and youthful ruby-purple. Very intense aromas of blackberry and black licorice. Full-bodied and lightly sweet, with chewy tannins and a rich licorice, blackberry undertone. Still tight. Drinkable now, but it needs a few more years. '77/'85/'97 blind Port retrospective. Best after 2010.

Score: 93

James Suckling, Wine Spectator Maturity: 2010+01 January 2008

Excellent medium ruby. High-pitched, still-youthful aromas and flavors of black cherry, minerals, graphite, licorice, espresso and menthol. Primary, intense and impeccably balanced, with strong but harmonious acidity giving grip to the sappy dark fruit flavors and extending the extremely long finish. Wonderfully dense and silky wine--more elegantly styled than the 1996, thanks in part to the relatively cool summer. This should almost certainly merit an even higher score in a decade or so. Amazing wine in the making, and likely to merit an even higher score 10 or 20 years from now.

-- Stephen Tanzer 96+ Stephen Tanzer Not Available Nov 2012

In a port tasting, tasting Graham's is almost like tasting a big, rich, succulent Merlot after a group of blockbuster, tannic Cabernets. Sweeter and more obvious than many ports, the opaque purple-colored 1994 is fruity, powerful, and rich, with an addictive hedonistic quality. It will be ready to drink in 8-10 years and keep for up to 30. As always, this is a showy, flamboyant port that has the advantage of being slightly sweeter than other 1994s. A great Graham's. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2035.

Rating

96

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2014 - 2045

Reviewed by

Neal Martin

Issue Date

30th Apr 2014

Source

212, The Wine Advocate

The Quinta Do Noval Nacional 1997 has a fragrant bouquet that boasts more delineation than the Vintage Noval, although it demonstrates approximately the same degree of vigour. There is a fine mineral component on the nose with macerated dark cherries, hoisin, cigar box and dried fig that seem to multiply exponentially with vigor. The palate is elegant on the entry with supple rounded tannins, well-judged acidity and purity, building gently in the mouth from its understated entry towards its peacock tail of mulberry, clove and raisin towards the finish. This is a step up from the 1994 Nacional, though if you want to split hairs, it does not possess the mind-boggling complexity of later vintages. However, it does purr with class. Drink now-2045.

Rating

95

Drink Date

2010 - 2035

Reviewed by

Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Issue Date

30th Oct 2002

Source

143, The Wine Advocate

Potentially one of the most compelling wines of the vintage, this inky black/purple-colored 2000 exhibits notes of scorched earth, melted asphalt, blackberry liqueur, and a pungent, penetrating intensity that reverberates in the mouth as well as the head. Full-bodied, massive, and concentrated, with a 45-second finish, this thrilling effort should drink well between 2010-2035.

Straightforward yet intense, ripe black raspberry liqueur and cassis scents are followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegant, restrained, balanced port with moderately high tannin as well as outstanding purity. It is a vintage port with impeccable finesse

Score: 91 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (143), October 2002

Lovely floral aromas of berries, violets and minerals. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and a racy finish. A harmonious yet well-toned Warre. Reminds me of the 1991. Best after 2010. 9,000 cases made

Score: 91 James Suckling, Wine Spectator

The 2000 Fonseca continues to exude finesse and focus on the nose, with pure blackberry, juniper berries, licorice and a touch of sloes, perhaps as Adrian Bridge remarked, just beginning to close after ten years in bottle. The palate is underpinned by very fine tannins, a sensual, svelte texture with wonderful acidity. The harmony and symmetry is alluring, the finish precise and demonstrating the persistency to suggest a long future ahead. Drink 2020-2060.

The 2016 Warre’s Vintage Port was picked from 19 September, the harvest took 10 days longer than usual in order to gain optimal ripeness. It has a tightly-wound but compelling bouquet with intense black fruit laced with clove, nutmeg and touches of smoke. This is a Warre’s with great precision and detail. The palate is sheer class: saturated ripe tannin that belie the structure underneath. There is a symmetry about this Vintage Port and a tension that keeps you returning for more. Wow. This is one of the finest Warre’s that I have tasted at declaration. Bravo! Production is 4,250 cases. Drink 2026 - 2070.
Score: 94 Neal Martin, vinous.com, June 2018

Very complex with dried flowers and roses. Full-bodied, very layered and tightly wound. Chewy and powerful. Firm and off-dry. Needs five or six years to soften. Beauty. Try in 2024.
Score: 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, May 2018
 

JamesSuckling.com

Score: 95

Ripe and soft with loads of plummy, smoky and earthy character. Full body. Very sweet. Round and very soft textured. Flavorful finish. Drink in 2025 and onwards.

Picking began at Quinta do Panascal on September 6, the two other quintas in Pinhão that form the 2017 Fonseca Vintage Port, Cruzeiro and Santo António picked on 10 and 17 September respectively. One of the deepest, most opaque color amongst the new Port alumni, it has one of the most backward, almost recalcitrant noses that demands a lot of aeration. It gradually opens to reveal blackberry, melted tar, thyme, clove and violet aromas that are well defined, if maybe just missing the same breeding as Taylor’s. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This is fresh and detailed, a slightly more structured Fonseca than expected, quite strict at first with good grip and a lightly spiced, precise finish. Powerful and long on the aftertaste, you can feel this Fonseca 60 seconds after the wine has exited. It deserves 10-15 years in bottle. Excellent, but patience required. The most enigmatic of the 2017 Vintage Ports. Total production is 8,100 cases.

Score: 95 Neal Martin, vinous.com, June 2019