Vintage Port

Rating

92

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

1989 - 2019

Reviewed by

Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Issue Date

1st Jan 1989

Source

Buying Guide, 2nd Edition, The Wine Advocate

This is an extraordinary house that seems to have been particularly successful with its vintage port since 1977.The 1963 is a classic, a monumental, rich, still tannic wine that will last at least another 30 years.

Slightly smudgy brick colour. Tealeaf flavours and distinctly middle aged. Not the most refined or haunting wine although there is lots of bold, rather unsubtle fruit in the middle. Unresolved with spirit coming through. And, amazingly, still some tannin. Jagged.

Score: 16.5
 

Fonseca is one of the great port lodges, producing the most exotic and most complex port. If Fonseca lacks the sheer weight and power of a Taylor, Dow or Warre, or the opulent sweetness and intensity of a Graham, it excels in its magnificently complex, intense bouquet of plummy, cedary, spicy fruit and long, broad, expansive flavors. With its lush, seductive character, one might call it the Pomerol of Vintage ports. When it is young, it often loses out in blind tastings to the heavier, weightier, more tannic wines, but I always find myself upgrading my opinion of Fonseca after it has had 7-10 years of age. The 1977 has developed magnificently in the bottle, and while it clearly needs another decade to reach its summit, it is the best Fonseca since the 1970 and 1963.

“A troublesome vintage for many shippers, but Fonseca 1985 never fails to impress: tight-knit, dense and minty with a core of concentration and pure berry fruit. Succulent, wonderfully fresh and vibrant at 30 years old. Peacock’s tail of a finish. A real ‘wow’ of a wine that promises to last a lifetime.” 96 pts Richard Mayson

The 1985 vintage was preceded by an exceptionally cold, wet winter, with night temperatures well below freezing in early January. Berry set was excellent and the young bunches perfectly formed. The summer was hot throughout the region, with no rainfall during July and August. Fonseca picked earlier than most other shippers and the harvest was brought in under ideal conditions before the rain which fell later in the month of September. Conditions were ideal for fermentation resulting in must of exceptional colour and weight. Bottled in 1987. Round, rich and firm. Liquorice and freshness. (17.5 points)

Score: 17 - 18

Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2015-203004 October 2012

Deep crimson. Low key but well mannered nose. Thick, dry and clarety. Rather fine and serious and contained and compact. Yes! This one should run and run - real concentration and density. Lift and excitement. (18.5 points)

Score: 18 - 19

Jancis Robinson MW, Jancisrobinson.com Maturity: 2015-203013 October 2004

Very dark and youthful ruby-purple. Very intense aromas of blackberry and black licorice. Full-bodied and lightly sweet, with chewy tannins and a rich licorice, blackberry undertone. Still tight. Drinkable now, but it needs a few more years. '77/'85/'97 blind Port retrospective. Best after 2010.

Score: 93

James Suckling, Wine Spectator Maturity: 2010+01 January 2008

Rating

96

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2014 - 2045

Reviewed by

Neal Martin

Issue Date

30th Apr 2014

Source

212, The Wine Advocate

The Quinta Do Noval Nacional 1997 has a fragrant bouquet that boasts more delineation than the Vintage Noval, although it demonstrates approximately the same degree of vigour. There is a fine mineral component on the nose with macerated dark cherries, hoisin, cigar box and dried fig that seem to multiply exponentially with vigor. The palate is elegant on the entry with supple rounded tannins, well-judged acidity and purity, building gently in the mouth from its understated entry towards its peacock tail of mulberry, clove and raisin towards the finish. This is a step up from the 1994 Nacional, though if you want to split hairs, it does not possess the mind-boggling complexity of later vintages. However, it does purr with class. Drink now-2045.

The 2000 Fonseca continues to exude finesse and focus on the nose, with pure blackberry, juniper berries, licorice and a touch of sloes, perhaps as Adrian Bridge remarked, just beginning to close after ten years in bottle. The palate is underpinned by very fine tannins, a sensual, svelte texture with wonderful acidity. The harmony and symmetry is alluring, the finish precise and demonstrating the persistency to suggest a long future ahead. Drink 2020-2060.

The 2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port improved each time I raised it to my nose or mouth. It displays a black color and a salty, graphite-laced nose packed with sweet black fruits that is reminiscent of a stellar vintage of Chateau Latour. With air, notes of molasses, burnt sugar, spices, and jammy plums emanate from the glass. Full-bodied, hugely dense, immensely rich, as well as thick, this behemoth is also amazingly balanced and harmonious. Raisins, molasses, licorice, black cherries, plums, and a distinctive note of violets are found in its complex, seamless character. Its interminable finish reveals additional notes of chocolate, kirsch, red as well as black currants, dark cherries, and rose blossoms. Armed with exceptional power, depth, and purity, this Taylor will proudly stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest ever crafted by the Fladgate Partnership. Projected maturity: 2035-2060. Score: 98+

The 2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port improved each time I raised it to my nose or mouth. It displays a black color and a salty, graphite-laced nose packed with sweet black fruits that is reminiscent of a stellar vintage of Chateau Latour. With air, notes of molasses, burnt sugar, spices, and jammy plums emanate from the glass. Full-bodied, hugely dense, immensely rich, as well as thick, this behemoth is also amazingly balanced and harmonious. Raisins, molasses, licorice, black cherries, plums, and a distinctive note of violets are found in its complex, seamless character. Its interminable finish reveals additional notes of chocolate, kirsch, red as well as black currants, dark cherries, and rose blossoms. Armed with exceptional power, depth, and purity, this Taylor will proudly stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest ever crafted by the Fladgate Partnership. Projected maturity: 2035-2060. Score: 98+

JamesSuckling.com

Score: 95

Ripe and soft with loads of plummy, smoky and earthy character. Full body. Very sweet. Round and very soft textured. Flavorful finish. Drink in 2025 and onwards.

JamesSuckling.com

Score: 95

Ripe and soft with loads of plummy, smoky and earthy character. Full body. Very sweet. Round and very soft textured. Flavorful finish. Drink in 2025 and onwards.

Picking began at Quinta do Panascal on September 6, the two other quintas in Pinhão that form the 2017 Fonseca Vintage Port, Cruzeiro and Santo António picked on 10 and 17 September respectively. One of the deepest, most opaque color amongst the new Port alumni, it has one of the most backward, almost recalcitrant noses that demands a lot of aeration. It gradually opens to reveal blackberry, melted tar, thyme, clove and violet aromas that are well defined, if maybe just missing the same breeding as Taylor’s. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This is fresh and detailed, a slightly more structured Fonseca than expected, quite strict at first with good grip and a lightly spiced, precise finish. Powerful and long on the aftertaste, you can feel this Fonseca 60 seconds after the wine has exited. It deserves 10-15 years in bottle. Excellent, but patience required. The most enigmatic of the 2017 Vintage Ports. Total production is 8,100 cases.

Score: 95 Neal Martin, vinous.com, June 2019