Vintage Port

The 2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port improved each time I raised it to my nose or mouth. It displays a black color and a salty, graphite-laced nose packed with sweet black fruits that is reminiscent of a stellar vintage of Chateau Latour. With air, notes of molasses, burnt sugar, spices, and jammy plums emanate from the glass. Full-bodied, hugely dense, immensely rich, as well as thick, this behemoth is also amazingly balanced and harmonious. Raisins, molasses, licorice, black cherries, plums, and a distinctive note of violets are found in its complex, seamless character. Its interminable finish reveals additional notes of chocolate, kirsch, red as well as black currants, dark cherries, and rose blossoms. Armed with exceptional power, depth, and purity, this Taylor will proudly stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest ever crafted by the Fladgate Partnership. Projected maturity: 2035-2060. Score: 98+

Backbone of Quinta dos Malvedos which saw 13 mm of rain in mid September. The blend includes some Sousão for colour and freshness. Plus lots of Touriga Franca from Quinta do Tua, the one with the old terraces (for Stone Terraces) still. Only 230 g per vine from there. Plus wine from two other properties, Quinta da Vila Velha across the river from Malvedos and Quinta do Vale de Malhadas from Douro Superior upriver – mainly Touriga Franca. In volume, 2016 produced 25 to 30% less than in 2011 which wasn’t a big crop. 6,325 cases made, some in the traditional tappit hen size.
All the Symington wines had exceptionally deep colours. This one has a particularly deep blackish-purple, still with a blueish hue. On the already-expressive nose I found prunes, something floral and a note of balsam, plus lots of freshness. Relatively open on the palate too. Rather elegant and the hugely sweet fruit almost covers a massive charge of silky tannins. This is almost like a sweet, tannic table wine. Pure and polished. Sweeter than most. One of those wines that some people might easily persuade themselves could be drunk relatively young, Satin textured.