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Red Burgundy

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Region Producer Vintage Namesort descending Qty Unit Case Size Format Price Note Rating
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2019 Beaune Greves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus 2 Case 12 75cl £1,030
  • Rating

    (92 - 94)+

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    NA

    Reviewed by

     William Kelley

    Issue Date

    14th Jan 2021

    Source

    January 2021 Week 2, The Wine Advocate

    The 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus unwinds in the glass with notes of plums, cassis, loamy soil, black truffle, spices and incense. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with bright acids, ultra-refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish. This is the latest in a series of superb renditions of this cuvée, and it may be the finest of them all.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2005 Bonnes Mares 1 Bottle 300cl £1,950
  • Tasting note: A notably ripe red and blue berry fruit nose is nuanced by chalk, minerals and abundant spice notes that continue onto the toasty, rich, full and massively powerful flavors that are suave and superbly concentrated, all wrapped in a very Bonnes Mares style finish as this is chewy but not rustic. An impressive wine where the finish doesn't seem to ever end.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Bonnes Mares 2 Case 6 75cl £1,250
  • Here the notably ripe nose offers up liqueur-like dark berry fruit aromas that leads to big, rich and overtly bold and still compact large-scaled flavors that evidence obvious muscle and power before culminating in a very firm, intense, explosive and driving finish that delivers outstanding length. This is a formidable wine with dense and mouth coating tannins that will require at least 15 years to fully resolve and 20 would not surprise me. Note that unlike some of these '09s, this is very definitely not for early consumption as it is presently almost aggressively austere.

    Score: 93 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (46), April 2012

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Mugnier JF 2012 Bonnes Mares 1 Bottle 75cl £675
  • The 2012 Bonnes Mares presents an intriguing push and pull between some of the more delicate notes that appear initially and its underlying, restrained power. This is another wine where so much is implied rather than overt. As always, the Mugnier Bonnes Mares is above all else a wine of restraint, although in this vintage, there is plenty of depth as well.

    -- Antonio Galloni 93 Antonio Galloni 2022 - 2042 $455.00 Apr 2015

     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Bonnes Mares 2 Case 6 75cl £750
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2017 Bonnes Mares 1 Bottle 150cl £700
  • Domaine Comte de Vogüé
    2017
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93

    Tasting note: A very ripe yet agreeably fresh nose reflects notes of blue berry, plum liqueur and violet that are cut with spice, menthol and earth hints. The exceptionally rich and impressively full-bodied flavors evidence a taut muscularity, all wrapped in an overtly powerful and lingering finish that is naturally sweet. As one would reasonably expect this is quite firm; indeed it's borderline rustic.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2018 Bonnes Mares 2 Bottle 75cl £625
  • The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is blessed with one of my favorite aromatics from Dujac this year, featuring black cherries, raspberry, crushed stone and pressed iris flower, all quite restrained for a Bonnes-Mares but showing outstanding focus. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, a fine line of acidity and a strict and quite linear finish that lingers long in the mouth. Outstanding.

    -- Neal Martin (95-97) Neal Martin 2022 - 2050 Not Available Jan 2020

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Mugnier JF 2005 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 6 75cl £8,900
  • Burghound Tasting note: The concentration and intensity has slowly but noticeably been increasing over the last few vintages as the vines begin to achieve a higher average age and it's particularly evident in 2005. Here the nose is unusually expressive rather than its usual brooding character with pretty, even elegant aromas of spicy red pinot and purple fruit and warm earth notes that can also be found on the powerful but detailed, indeed almost nervous flavors that possess excellent precision and a very attractive underlying tension on the explosive finish that delivers flat out incredible length. 2005 is the best vintage for this wine that I've seen since Mugnier took over.

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2016 Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £1,450
  • (from a 0.8-hectoliter parcel of very old vines close to the forest; one of the two barrels was new): Good ruby-red. Delicate scents of kirsch, violet and bitter chocolate convey an impression of medicinal reserve. Concentrated and penetrating if not particularly expressive today, with its very dark flavors of blackberry and licorice pastille in need of a bit more pliancy. This rather brooding, youthfully imploded Chambertin stands out more for its high pitch than for its depth and complexity. I'm not yet convinced.

    -- Stephen Tanzer(91-94)Stephen Tanzer$410.00Jan 2018

     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £14,750
  • Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: This is also ultra-pure and densely fruited with notes of anise, mint, wet stone and a sauvage hint that introduces intensely earthy and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that are rich, powerful, serious and densely concentrated, all wrapped in a silky, palate staining, explosive and colossally persistent finish. This is actually relatively expressive and approachable for a young Cham yet the balance and harmony is present for this to age for decades. A brilliant effort and one of the best vintages ever for this justifiably revered wine.
     

Tasting Notes
98
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Chambertin 1 Bottle 75cl £1,900
  • Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: This is also ultra-pure and densely fruited with notes of anise, mint, wet stone and a sauvage hint that introduces intensely earthy and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that are rich, powerful, serious and densely concentrated, all wrapped in a silky, palate staining, explosive and colossally persistent finish. This is actually relatively expressive and approachable for a young Cham yet the balance and harmony is present for this to age for decades. A brilliant effort and one of the best vintages ever for this justifiably revered wine.
     

Tasting Notes
98
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2015 Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £17,500
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2015
    Chambertin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 98
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2037+
    Issue: 69
    Note: 100% new wood
    Producer note: Eric Rousseau charmingly described the style of the 2016 vintage as "being softer and more typical than 2015. It's like your best friend in the sense that you can always count on it to drink well early, late and in-between. While I really like the results I have to admit that getting to them wasn't easy as some of our parcels suffered dearly at the hands of the frost, and in particular in Chambertin and Clos St. Jacques as we lost 60% and 30% respectively relative to a normal harvest. Plus the mildew was also really quite awful though we managed just the same, but that isn't to say that doing so was easy. Once those problems stopped being problems, which was in the middle part of July, the rest of the season was relatively straightforward to navigate. We chose to begin picking on the 23rd of September under perfect harvest conditions and brought in both clean and ripe fruit that, again with the exceptions of Chambertin and the Clos St. Jacques, had more or less normal yields and Clos de la Roche was excellent in that regard. Potential alcohols were very good at between 12.5 and 13% with good but not high acidities. The skins were on the thicker side though not like say 2005 or 2015. As to another vintage that is stylistically comparable, I might suggest a slightly riper and denser version of 2014." I was most impressed with the Rousseau 2016s but the Chambertin really stood head and shoulders above the other wines. Usually it's quite close between it and the Clos de Bèze but at this early juncture, the Chambertin appears to have a considerable edge. I also was seriously impressed by the now in-bottle 2015s, revisited below, which were put there in April 2017. Speaking of bottling, Rousseau noted that they are now using bottles where the bottom of it is embossed with the name of the domaine. He further explained that as of 2015 that each cork used for the Chambertin and Clos de Bèze is individually analyzed for TCA-taint. This quality control step will be progressively applied to the other wines in the range going forward. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, USA; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerini.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: Here too there is just enough oak to mention but once again it's not really enough to impair the purity of the distinctly cool and ultra-spicy red currant, underbrush, sandalwood, lilac and plenty of earth aromas. The rich, intense and overtly muscular big-bodied flavors possess a similar level of minerality that is borderline pungent and it informs the explosively long, firm and very serious finish. This notably powerful, but not really austere effort, displays magnificent potential and if it develops its usual degree of complexity over time it should merit the upper end of my projected range. But as structured and firm as it is, I suspect that this will drink well after only 6 to 8 years of age thanks to the incredible abundance of dry extract.
     

Tasting Notes
98
Red Burgundy de Vogue 1989 Chambolle Musigny 1 Bottle 75cl £290
Red Burgundy Bichot, Albert 2011 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Amoureuses Clos Frantin 1 Case 6 75cl £1,000
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2009 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 1 Case 6 75cl £4,500
  • Drink: 2021+
    Don't miss! Outstanding
    Tasting note: An extremely fresh and strikingly complex nose speaks of violets, anise, clove and cinnamon on the mélange of red and blue pinot fruit. The detailed and ultra fine middle weight flavors are also intensely mineral-driven and culminate in a posed, harmonious and explosively long finish where an interesting note of mandarin surfaces. A text book Amoureuses.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2019 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees 3 Case 6 75cl £385
  • Jancis Robinson

    Cask sample. Bright garnet colour. Light mossiness on the nose (interesting rather than a fault). Very flattering jewelly fruit with some finesse and a hint of Chambolle chestnuts. Fresher than many Jadot 2019s (not too sweet) and a very broad, winning wine with everything in the right place. Lots of energy here.

    Drink 
    2026
     – 
    2040

Tasting Notes
17
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2016 Charmes Chambertin 1 Bottle 75cl £275
Red Burgundy Faiveley 2017 Charmes Chambertin 2 Case 6 75cl £720
  • Chambertin Grand Cru

    The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from a single hectare that came from Faiveley’s purchase of Dupont-Tisserandot. The parcels lie right across the road from Chambertin, and the vines are around 70 years old, although they were due to be pulled up the week after my visit, since they are becoming unproductive. This has a slightly smudged, floral bouquet that gains clarity with aeration, but does not quite have the delineation of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and good grip, quite Mazoyères-like in terms of structure, and an attractive spicy finish. It maybe just lacks the finesse of the very finest Charmes-Chambertins.

    -- Neal Martin (90-92) Neal Martin 2021 - 2040 Not Available Jan 2019

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2003 Charmes Chambertin 1 Bottle 75cl £495
  • Medium red. Flowers, red cherry and animal fur on the nose. Supple, sweet and elegant; in a rather subtle style, showing less power than the Cazetiers but much easier to taste today. This is Charmes of premier cru weight, but it builds nicely and lingers well on the back end. The tannins here are rather gentle.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 87-89 Stephen Tanzer Not Available Mar 2005

Tasting Notes
89
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Charmes Chambertin 2 Case 6 75cl £3,500
  • Tasting note: A beautifully elegant essence of red berry fruit nose enjoys added breadth in the form of spice, earth and gentle floral nuances. I very much like the sense of freshness and vivacity to the medium weight plus flavors that possess fine detail and a hint of minerality that continues onto the silky and saline-inflected finish. This wine has made a great deal of progress over the past 5 vintages or so and 2012 continues that trend.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de Beze 1 Bottle 75cl £425
Red Burgundy Drouhin Laroze 2011 Clos de Beze 1 Case 6 75cl £550
  • Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
    2011
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 49
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949
    Producer note: Philippe Drouhin described the 2011 growing season as having a "very early start with unusually hot and dry days that rapidly caused hydric stress in the vineyards. While June was normal we were still very behind with respect to accumulated rainfall. Well, that problem was rectified and then some by rainy, cool and overcast conditions during much of July and August. The good news is that the last week of August and most of September saw perfect conditions and we were able to harvest carefully and without urgency. The fruit was mostly clean though in certain sectors there was enough botrytis that it required careful sorting to excise. Quantities were again notably less than a normal crop and with 2012 being substantially less, clients aren't going to be happy with their allocations. We are at least partially compensated though by the very fine quality of these vintages and while 2011 is not going to be anyone's candidate for the vintage of the century, it certainly is competitive with 2010." For more offerings from Drouhin-Laroze, see their operation below called Larose de Drouhin. (Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, Atherton, CA, Encore Wine Imports, www.encorewineimports.net, Pleasanton, CA; Bayfield Imports, www.bayfieldimporting.com, Brooklyn, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Fine & Rare Wines, www.frw.co.uk, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, and Anthony Sarjeant, all UK).
    Tasting note: An extraordinarily spicy and complex nose evidences cool, fresh and admirably pure aromas of cassis, red berries and plum. There is a floral note on the remarkably rich, concentrated and extract-rich flavors that really coat the palate on the dusty, long and impressively deep finish. A classic Bèze and well worth considering.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2016 Clos de Beze 1 Case 3 75cl £650
  • The 2016 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a glorious bouquet with ample red cherry, redcurrant jus, orange pith and blood orange scents all vying for attention (in an orderly fashion!). The palate is very harmonious with supple tannin, well-judged acidity, quite dense with graphite and tobacco interlaced on the structured and sustained finish. It is not up there with the magnificent 2015 but it will give three decades of serious drinking pleasure. Drink 2022 - 2050.

    Score: 94/96 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (234), December 2017

    The Clos de Bèze was—appropriately—one of the more reticent wines in the cellar when I tasted it in October, opening with a brooding bouquet of dark berries, grilled meat, espresso and new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and powerful, with deep core of fruit and a chewy chassis of fine-grained, savory tannins. This shows lots of promise and should be very cellarworthy. 2027-2047

    Score: 95 William Kelley, Decanter.com, January 2018

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze 3 Case 6 75cl £1,200
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2003 Clos de Beze 4 Bottle 75cl £1,750
  • 2003 Armand Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Beze

    Good deep bright red. Enticing aromas of black raspberry, coffee, mocha and sexy oak. Then less exotic than usual for this wine at this early stage of its evolution: saline and savory, with notes of underbrush but not the normal India n spices. Perhaps a bit youthfully tight today. Quite restrained in its sweetness and not yet showing much complexity. Finishes with big, broad tannins and very good length.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 90-94

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2010 Clos de Beze 1 Bottle 75cl £3,100
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2010
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 49
    Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2011 vintage was that "we had almost the same metrological conditions as in 2007. It was not quite as hot but otherwise similar, particularly in that the spring was very dry. The summer weather was not great either and it required a lot of work in the vineyards to ensure good aeration to avoid undue problems with rot. We began picking on the 31st of August and there was a fair amount of sorting necessary though not so much that I was worried about how clean my lees would be. Potential alcohols were in the 12 to 13.2% range, which is perfectly acceptable if not truly excellent. Yields however were down considerable and while they were a bit higher than 2010, the total was still off 25 to 30%. I did our normal vinification where I lowered the temperature to between 13 and 16° C (55 and 61° F) and then allowed the musts to climb when and as they wanted. The malos were all over the place with some of them ending early and others terminating much later. As to the wines, there is more underlying material than we had in 2007, and to my taste, the quality is definitely higher as well. I think that the 2011s should age well, not because they are necessarily all that firmly structured so much as that they are very well-balanced." 2011 is a vintage chez Rousseau where the big boys definitely shined and while the lower level wines are more than respectable, they don't necessarily transcend the vintage. That said, the Chambertin, Bèze, Ruchottes, Clos St. Jacques and Clos de la Roche are all very impressive. Regarding the now in-bottle 2010s, they are absolutely stunning and any and all should be on your shopping lists, but in particular, absolutely do not miss either the Chambertin or the Clos de Bèze as they are utterly brilliant. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerini.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: Very deeply colored, indeed this is the mostly deeply tinted of the Rousseau '10s. A gentle touch of wood offsets the highly complex and ultra-fresh nose that interweaves a superb range of floral, spice and distinctly ripe fruit elements. The seductively textured, detailed, pure and vibrant broad-shouldered flavors display a subtle minerality before terminating in an explosive, powerful and tautly muscled finish that delivers massive length. This is a relatively powerful Rousseau Bèze yet it remains quite refined as the underlying tannins are almost inexplicably fine-grained and like the Clos St. Jacques, it should age effortlessly for years. In sum, this is simply phenomenal.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de la Roche 1 Bottle 75cl £290
Red Burgundy Dujac 2005 Clos de la Roche 1 Case 12 75cl £14,500
  • Domaine Dujac
    2005
    Clos de la Roche
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Nov 22, 2017
    Drink: Try from 2040+
     
    Tasting note: The surprisingly expressive nose is quite floral and spicy with still completely primary aromas of black cherry, warm earth and a hint of the sauvage. There is excellent richness to the focused, intense, vibrant and well-muscled full-bodied flavors that carry ample authority and punch on the complex, broad and superbly long finish that reflects a hint of mocha. There is real depth of material here and the intensity builds from the mid-palate on back to the explosive if slightly austere finish. This is going to require plenty of patience as another 20+ years will be necessary if you wish to see it at its peak. Tasted thrice recently with consistent results.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Lignier-Michelot 2008 Clos de la Roche 1 Case 12 75cl £1,800
  • Note: from a .27 ha parcel, most of which is young vines of 15 years though there is a parcel approximating 15% of the total with <40 years of age
    Producer note: Virgile Lignier told me that 2008 was a vintage where "the saving grace was the north wind, which is also responsible for forming its character, much as it did in 1996 and 2002. As such, it was primarily maturation through evaporation rather than through the more typical heat and light. Having seen this phenomenon before, I waited as long as I could so that my fruit could benefit from what sunshine and luminosity that there was. I began picking on the 2nd of October because I could see that there was no photosynthesis going on and there was nothing to be gained by waiting any longer. Waiting though had its price as it was necessary to eliminate a lot of fruit. In fact, I would estimate my average loss at 30%. Sugars were better than I thought they would be at between 11.5 and 12.5% and I had one parcel at 13%. I limited the chaptalization to no more than half a degree. The '08s are extremely transparent and I was positive that boosting the alcohols would immediately, and permanently, mark the wines. As I did in 2007, I elected to use some whole clusters, which varied between 10 and 20% though for the old vines Morey, it was 30%, the Clos St. Denis saw 50% and for the Charmes-Chambertin, it was 100%. The '08 vintage is not really to my taste but I have to say that it's certainly better than I anticipated that it would be. And in tasting the wines, it's immediately apparent that 2008 respected the hierarchy of appellations as there are big quality differences between each level." Note: Lignier has a small négociant activity and the wines are sold under Maison Virgile Lignier. 
    Tasting note: Like all of these grands crus, this is a very ripe '08 with a layered, elegant and nuanced nose that combines red pinot fruit, oak, warm earth and wet stone notes that seamlessly give way to round, rich and full-bodied flavors that possess a sleek muscularity on the beautifully textured and mineral-driven finish. This is a big wine in the context of the vintage and offers a completely different personality than does the Clos St. Denis.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Ponsot 1997 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 1 Bottle 75cl £300
Red Burgundy Leroy 2000 Clos de Vougeot 1 Bottle 75cl £3,800
  • Domaine Leroy
    2000
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Nov 23, 2019
    Drink: Try from 2022+
     
    Tasting note: (with thanks to Joe Tsai; tasted twice in 2019 with other bottles described below). A mild touch of bricking. An expressive nose is now composed mostly of secondary fruit, floral and spice aromas where nuances of earth and a touch of game are present. The supple, delicious and impressively concentrated big-bodied flavors are supported by plenty of sap on the noticeably ripe, dusty and beautifully complex and lingering finish. For my taste this is close to its apogee but I would suggest holding for another 3 to 5 years. Note that another bottle tasted in 2010 seemed much more advanced than this one and while still very good, it was clearly not as pristine and rated 93 and yet another one tasted in 2016 was like the one described above except that the finish was mildly drying; this example rated 92 points.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2011 Clos Saint Denis 3 Case 6 75cl £690
  • Tasting note: A tight and while not completely closed, it would be fair to describe as the nose of subtly layered and spicy dark currant aromas as highly restrained. By contrast, there is fine vibrancy and freshness to the silky and focused middle weight flavors that are shaped by fine grained if distinctly firm tannins, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, mouth coating, impressively persistent and austere finish. This may be a Clos St. Denis of finesse but it doesn't lack for power or seriousness.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2016 Clos Saint Denis 1 Bottle 75cl £550
96
Red Burgundy Rousseau 1990 Clos Saint Jacques 1 Bottle 75cl £1,850
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    1990
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques"
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Mar 02, 2019
    Drink: Now+
     
    Tasting note: This was a wine that I was quite curious to try because while I had the good fortune to have enjoyed it several times in the 1990s, it had not come my way since 2001. I'm happy to report that it did not disappoint with its ripe yet airy aromas of sous-bois, spice, earth, game and beautifully well-layered secondary fruit. There is fine richness as well as very good power to the delicious and attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that exhibit equally good layering on the impressively persistent finale. This is not a particularly elegant vintage for the Rousseau CSJ and there remains enough tannin to notice on the slightly warm finish but overall, I found this to have aged out extremely well.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2012 Clos Saint Jacques 1 Case 6 75cl £5,500
  • **Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 70% new wood**
    There is a deft touch of wood to the reluctant but ultra-elegant essence of red pinot fruit, floral elements and wet stone scents. This is splendidly well-detailed with a terrific sense of underlying tension adding energy to the medium weight flavors that brim with a fine minerality before culminating in a balanced and stunningly long finish. This ageworthy effort is the most refined wine among these four 2012s and dances across the palate. In a word, dazzling.

    Score: 95 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (57), January 2015

    **Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 70% new wood**
    There is a deft touch of wood to the ultra-elegant essence of red pinot fruit, floral elements and wet stone scents. This is splendidly well-detailed with a terrific sense of underlying tension adding energy to the medium weight flavors that brim with a fine minerality before culminating in a balanced and stunningly long finish. This isn't necessarily more complex than either the Clos de la Roche or the Clos des Ruchottes but it is longer and the additional length gives the Clos St. Jacques a slight edge.

    Score: 92/95 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (53), January 2014

    The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques was raised in 80% new oak. It has a very fragrant bouquet with pure raspberry and wild strawberry fruit interlaced with minerals, forest floor and hints of iodine. This premier cru is imbued with a sense of completeness on the nose, as if anything more would be superfluous. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins on the entry. There is real tension here from the very start: supreme focus and a brooding sense of power towards the long, insistent finish with touches licorice on the aftertaste.

    Score: 95/97 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (210), December 2013

    Bright, dark red. Highly perfumed nose combines tangy red berries, rose petal and crushed rock. Silky on entry, then intensely flavored and bracing, delivering urgent, sharply delineated flavors of crushed red fruits, flowers and minerals. Offers outstanding cut and inner-mouth tension, especially in the context of the year. Wonderfully complex and precise on the juicy, endless finish, which leaves the taste buds quivering. Clos Saint-Jacques doesn't get much better than this, and I would not be at all surprised if this wine merited an even higher score as it approaches maturity. 2025 - 2038

    Score: 95+ Stephen Tanzer, vinous.com, March 2015

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2009 Clos Saint Jacques 1 Case 6 75cl £6,500
  • Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils
    2009
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1er
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2024+
    Issue: 45
    Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel raised in 80% new wood
    Producer note: Eric Rousseau's take on the 2010 vintage was "almost every aspect was marked by the weather and most of it wasn't favorable. The night of the 19th of December 2009 had a 15° C drop in just a few hours that caused the sap in the vines to freeze, expand and ultimately kill many vines. We certainly had some of our villages vineyards hit relatively hard. Then the weather was cool and wet during the flowering which caused a lot of shot berries to materialize, which of course was the major driver of the lower yields. In fact we had the lowest yields in 2010 that we have had during the entire decade and I include 2003 in that comparison. Our yields varied between 20 and 30 hl/ha but on the other hand, it is almost a certainty that without the low crop levels we never would have had sufficiently ripe fruit. I didn't wait very long to begin picking and began on the 22nd of September and picked until October 2nd. There was some sorting work for under ripe berries but really no more than usual. Sugars were very good and ranged from 12 to 13.5%. The harvest weather was also very cool and it took a bit longer to get the fermentations to begin but after that I did my normal vinification. Right after the fermentations were finished the temperatures fell even further which means that the cellars cooled off earlier than usual. This had the effect of delaying the onset of the malos and since there was a lot of malic acid, the malos were long and slow. I don't know about elsewhere but here at the domaine 2010 is a really beautiful vintage. There is tension and verve to the wines and they make me think of the 2008s but with better density and riper tannins. And unlike the 2008s, I don't think that the 2010s will close up once they're in bottle." As to the now in-bottle '09s, they confirmed the seriously impressive quality that they displayed at this time last year. But as good as they are, and they are sensational, the Rousseau '10s are also amazing, in particular the Chambertin which is utterly brilliant. Rousseau noted that he used no new wood at all except for the Clos St. Jacques, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, all UK).
    Tasting note: Discreet but not invisible wood spice adds breadth to the otherwise perfumed, elegant and ultra-pure stone-infused red berry fruit nose that is also quite fresh within the context of the vintage. The detailed and strikingly intense medium-bodied flavors exude dry extract that effectively pushes the firm tannic spine to the background on the palate staining and massively long finish. This powerful effort is a potentially a great Clos St. Jacques that rivals its 2005 counterpart at the same stage of its development.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Fourrier 2012 Clos Saint Jacques Vieille Vigne 1 Bottle 75cl £575
  • Domaine Fourrier
    2012
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques"  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
    Drink: 2020+
    Issue: 57
    Outstanding
    Note: from .89 ha parcel planted in 1910
    Producer note: Jean-Marie Fourrier told me that 2013 was a "really complicated vintage to manage because it was so wet. The tough part is that the wetter it is the more protection that the vines need but the harder it is to treat them. For domaines like mine that only use contact products it only takes 20 mm of rain to wash them off. When the vineyards are so wet that you can't get mechanized equipment into them then you have to treat manually with the tanks on your back. Let me tell you, that's heavy duty work. The weeds were also a huge problem in 2013 because you would plow and then 3 days later they were back. Weeds and grasses are a mixed blessing because while they can help against erosion and to absorb excess moisture because they can harbor humidity that helps the spread of vine diseases. This was super important because the key to the vintage was to make sure that you had a healthy solar panel of leaves so that adequate photosynthetic activity was going on. With the constant mildew pressure that everyone had it was easy to lose a lot of leaves and thus many vineyards didn't produce sufficiently ripe fruit if you didn't treat precisely when you had to treat. Worse still, even if you treated rigorously that didn't mean that your neighbors did and all it took was a gust of wind in the direction of your vines to contaminate them. In short, the 2013 vintage didn't pardon anything other than perfection in terms of your treatments. We began picking on the 2nd of October and we picked as quickly as we could which is to say 5 days. This was important as well because around the 28th of September the acidities began to fall like a stone and acidities are a natural defense against botrytis. Once this occurred the rot exploded and thus picking rapidly was an imperative. While there was some sorting required it wasn't anything major though this was again as much about respecting the treatment cadence than anything else. Quantities were down a bit but again nothing major. Potential alcohols were in the 11.8 to 12.5% range and nothing was chaptalized above 13%. As to the wines they're classic burgundies that are moderately structured and should age well over the mid-term." I will repeat the advice that I typically give, which is that Fourrier deliberately bottles with high CO2 levels as a partial defense against oxidation and thus if you elect to try an example or two young, be sure to decant for 20 to 30 minutes first. Note that all wines are labeled as Vieilles Vignes. Also Fourrier has substantially expanded his négociant activities so see directly below for those reviews. Lastly Fourrier noted that his 2012s, two of which were revisited below, were bottled in February 2014. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, www.madrose.com, Shekomeko, NY; there are many sources in the UK including A&B Vintners, UK, www.abvintners.co.uk, John Armit Wines, www.armit.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, and Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: A remarkably elegant and exuberantly spicy nose features an airy and cool mix of raspberry, cherry, red currant and plenty of wet stone characters. There is superb intensity to the mineral-driven, pure and ultra-refined middle weight flavors that are shaped by very fine-grained tannins on the moderately austere, balanced, saline and wonderfully persistent finish. A classic Clos St. Jacques of class and grace.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Remoissenet Pere & Fils 2015 Clos Vougeot 1 Case 3 150cl £750
  • Tasting note: The brooding nose is compositionally similar to that of the Charmes-Chambertin but the earth component is more pronounced. The big-bodied and imposingly-scaled flavors exhibit plenty of punch and muscle on the mouth coating, mocha-infused, youthfully austere and strikingly persistent finish thanks to the copious amounts of dry extract. Despite the impressive size and weight this is not a rustic wine though it's certainly going to require patience.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Prieur 2017 Clos Vougeot 1 Case 6 75cl £750
  • Domaine Jacques Prieur
    2017
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 88-91
    Tasted: Apr 10, 2019
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 74
    Note: from a 1.19 ha parcel of vines at the bottom of the slope; 20% whole clusters
    Producer note: Technical director and winemaker Nadine Gublin noted that 2017 "commenced early which is good if there is no late frost, which there was but we lucked out and avoided any significant damage. This was not only fortunate but it also signaled that the vegetative cycle would be advanced. After that the growing season was favorable and once again we began the harvest in August with the whites on the 29th. We waited though to pick the reds so that we could be sure to have good levels of phenolic maturity and thus we started on the 6th of September and continued through to the 12th. The fruit was not only clean but importantly had homogenous maturities. We used varying amounts of whole clusters in the vinifications which is to say from zero to 100%. As to the wines, I find it interesting just how much they improved during the élevage and that is as true for the whites as it is the reds. Perhaps the most attractive qualities of the wines are their freshness and balance which should enable them to age effortlessly." I found the quality of the 2017 reds to be quite good and particularly so with those from the Côte de Nuits. Readers should also take a look herein at a new négociant partnership between Domaine Prieur and co-owner and general director Edouard Labruyère that is called Labruyère-Prieur Sélection. (Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; SAQ, www.saq.com, LCBO, www.lcbo.com and Philippe Danduran Wines, www.vinsdandurand.com, all Canada).
    Tasting note: Moderate wood influence isn't subtle though neither does it interfere with the spicy and ripe aromas of warm earth and poached plum. The attractively rich and velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors conclude in a bitter chocolate and warm finish. This is awkward today and while my range offers the benefit of the doubt, this was not an especially good showing.
     

Tasting Notes
91
Red Burgundy Coquard Loison Fleurot 2015 Clos Vougeot 2 Case 6 75cl £820£760
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2013 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Case 6 75cl £2,450
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2013
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2016
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 61
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane and Labet noted that it was vinified with no sulfur; about 600 bottles will be produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2014 is a "beautiful vintage that produced succulent and refreshing wines that possess excellent maturity levels. The growing season was not without a few challenges but it was certainly easier than either 2012 or 2013. For example we suffered some hail damage in June and while ultimately we were not affected by the Suzukii infestation that doesn't mean we weren't worried about it. The summer was lousy and by the middle of August I began to wonder if we were going to have sufficient maturity levels to make good wines. Near perfect conditions returned right at the end of August, and September was magnificent and ripeness levels spiked rapidly. We began picking on the 24th of September and while there was a bit of sorting required it was less than usual. The fruit was clean and with very thick skins that gave us excellent colors rapidly. I really like the style of the 2014s as they are already pleasurable though they have the mid-palate stuffing and balance to age well." Labet said that there would be no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. Labet noted that his 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2015. (Caveau Selections, www.caveauselections.com, Portland, OR, Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: The oak influence is a bit more subtle though by no means invisible as it suffuses the very spicy plum liqueur-like aromas that are liberally laced with earth, exotic tea and dried floral scents. There is a lush, even opulent mouth feel to the dense big-bodied flavors that possess excellent size, weight and power yet the palate impression is finer, partially because the dry extract enrobes the tannins but also because the tannins themselves are finer on the massively long finish. The level of dry extract present here is simply amazing and this is going to require at least 20 years to realize all of the incredible upside development potential. Flat out terrific!
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2 Case 6 75cl £895
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2017
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
    Drink: 2032+
    Issue: 77
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2018 had "a very large fruit set so even with our high percentage of old vines, it was critical to control yields because if you didn't, even with the very hot temperatures it was difficult to obtain sufficient phenolic maturity. I began picking my chardonnay on the 4th of September and picked both my Côte de Beaune pinot [sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 78 and 79]. We chose to begin picking the Clos on the 7th of September and picked slowly as the conditions were warm but largely ideal. The fruit was very clean with yields that varied between 35 and 38 hl/ha. The potential alcohols were actually pretty reasonable considering the heat as nothing came in over 14% and most were right at 13.5%. We used 100% whole clusters for the vinifications and the fermentations gave us no particular concerns. The style of the 2018s isn't classic but given how much they have freshened over the course of the élevage, they may well surprise people as to how they evolve over the longer term." The 2017s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2019. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, www.watsonswine.com, Hong Kong).
    Tasting note: Similar wood treatment with a touch of menthol is present on the red berry aromas. There is better mid-palate density to the broad-shouldered and powerful flavors that possess excellent depth and persistence on the balanced and youthfully austere finish where a hint of wood resurfaces. There is much better than average concentration in the context of what is typical for the 2017 vintage though note well that this is presently very backward.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2018 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2 Case 6 75cl £850
  • The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru displays more complexity and mineralitéon the nose compared to the Cuvée Classique; the fruit is a little darker, revealing hints of cola and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lithe and fine-boned. Slightly chalky-textured toward the precise finish. This is actually more 2019 in style. A resounding success. 

    -- Neal Martin 95 Neal Martin

    2023 - 2050

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2014 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 12 75cl £1,500
  • Château de La Tour
    2014
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 65
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2015 was a "precocious vintage where we realized relatively tiny yields in Clos de Vougeot thanks to a very high incidence of shatter during the flowering, which is to say around 20 hl/ha. We chose to begin harvesting on the 8th of September and the fruit was spotlessly clean, ripe and with very thick skins. The vinifications were easy and we did almost no punching down as it would have been very easy to extract too much structure. As to the wines they are still of course developing but they appear to be extremely promising. The tannins are phenolically mature and the fruit is very ripe yet it's not ripe in the same fashion as say 2003 or 2009 and thus the terroir transparency is better. I like them a lot and they should be reasonably approachable young yet they're so concentrated that they should age for decades." The La Tour 2015s are indeed very promising and should prove to be exceptionally long-lived. That said, don't miss their 2014s either as they too are first-rate. I remind readers that there was no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. The 2014s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2016. (Terlato Wines, Lake Bluff, Il; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Here the nose is compositionally similar to that of the regular cuvée but as is usually the case it is more reserved, more complex and the wood treatment is more subtle. There is notably better concentration to the impressively rich, powerful and muscular big-bodied flavors are shaped by dense but relatively fine tannins on the wonderfully long, balanced and again youthfully austere finale. This terrific effort is really most impressive though note well that it is going to need at least 10 years of bottle age and reward 15 to 18.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bonneau du Martray 2014 Corton 2 Case 6 75cl £825
  • Domaine Bonneau du Martray
    2014
    Corton
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Apr 15, 2017
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 66
    Note: from a 1.5 ha parcel in Le Charlemagne
    Producer note: I will have Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière's broader views of the 2015 vintage in Issue 67. With respect to the red Corton, he noted that it was picked on the first of September with yields of around <17 hl/ha, which is around 50% less than is usual. He further noted that the fruit was quite clean as less than 1% of the fruit was eliminated and most of that was due to second generation berries that were not fully ripe. The total cuvaison lasted 17 days. Note the '14 was revisited below in bottle. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France is the US Agent; Martin Scott Wines www.martinscottwines.com, NY, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants www.chamberswines.com, CA, Vines, www.finevines.com, IL, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, TX, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, LA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, www.ndcweb.com, GA, Augustan Wine, www.augustanwine.com, FL, C'est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, NV/AZ/NM, M.S. Walker, www.mswalker.com, MA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: A cool and ultra-pure nose features notes of both red and dark cherry, earth, spice and plenty of earth character that is also reflected by the sleek and relatively refined middle weight flavors that evidence a firm muscularity, all wrapped in a moderately structured, youthfully austere and well-balanced finale. This is very Corton in basic disposition but like the 2015, it's not particularly rustic and should age well for 15+ years.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Bonneau du Martray 2016 Corton 1 Case 3 75cl £690
  •  

    Corton

    Grand Cru Red 750 ml

    Score: 91

    Tasted: Apr 10, 2021

    Drink: 2031+

    Issue: 82

     

    Note: from a 1.5 ha parcel in Le Charlemagne; 50% new wood

    Producer note: Managing Director Armand de Maigret explained that they are working with 6.5 ha in active production but when everything is planted, the total will rise to 8.5 ha. With respect to the 2019 vintage, de Maigret enthusiastically professed to be "exceptionally satisfied as it's given us near-perfect fruit to work with though unfortunately not much quantity as yields were down some 50% in white due to the frost and poor flowering. We even used helicopters to try to move the heavy moisture laden air in early April! We picked the pinot on the 6th of September but waited until the 14th for the chardonnay. Potential alcohols were very good as they averaged right at 13.5% for both colors. Stylistically, I would compare the 2019s to a blend of the 2015 and 2017 vintages. The 2016 vintage was revisited in bottle. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.beckywasserman.com, Beaune, France is the US Agent; Winebow, Inc., www.winebow.com, NJ, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants www.chamberswines.com, CA, Vines, www.finevines.com, IL, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, TX, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, LA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, www.ndcweb.com, GA, Augustan Wine, www.augustanwine.com, FL, C'est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, NV/AZ/NM, M.S. Walker, www.mswalker.com, MA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; Altaya Wines, www.altayawines.com, Hong Kong).

    Tasting note: As it did when I originally reviewed this wine, it has the curious kind of reduction the Burgundians refer to as bourgeon de cassis (cassis blossom). Otherwise there is good density and richness to the velvet-textured larger-scaled flavors that possess robust power on the moderately austere and slightly drying finale that isn't exactly rustic, but it would be fair to say that it's not especially refined either. It's hard to predict how this wine will ultimately turn out as the nose is a bit of a concern given that it's been in bottle almost 5 years. By contrast I suspect that the dryness currently displayed by the finish will slowly dissipate with age. I would add that this is still quite youthful so there will be ample time for that to occur.

Tasting Notes
91
Red Burgundy Bonneau du Martray 2015 Corton 2 Case 3 75cl £520
  •  

    Corton

    Grand Cru Red barrel

    Score: 91-94

    Tasted: Apr 15, 2017

    Drink: 2027+

    Issue: 66

    Sweet spot 

     

    Note: from a 1.5 ha parcel in Le Charlemagne

    Producer note: I will have Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière's broader views of the 2015 vintage in Issue 67. With respect to the red Corton, he noted that it was picked on the first of September with yields of around <17 hl/ha, which is around 50% less than is usual. He further noted that the fruit was quite clean as less than 1% of the fruit was eliminated and most of that was due to second generation berries that were not fully ripe. The total cuvaison lasted 17 days. Note the '14 was revisited below in bottle. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France is the US Agent; Martin Scott Wines www.martinscottwines.com, NY, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants www.chamberswines.com, CA, Vines, www.finevines.com, IL, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, TX, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, LA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, www.ndcweb.com, GA, Augustan Wine, www.augustanwine.com, FL, C'est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, NV/AZ/NM, M.S. Walker, www.mswalker.com, MA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).

    Tasting note: Exuberantly spicy and earth-suffused black cherry liqueur-like aromas introduce rich, concentrated and suave big-bodied flavors that possess a lovely sense of vibrancy before culminating in an attractively textured finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. This built-to-age Corton manages to be both concentrated and serious yet not at all rustic.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Prieur 2017 Corton Bressandes 1 Case 6 75cl £570
  • The 2017 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru contains 40% whole bunches and matures in around 50% new oak. It has quite an elegant bouquet with black cherries, raspberry coulis and flecks of dark chocolate, the oak neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, more masculine than the aromatics suggest, with a saline/briny finish that I personally find attractive. Very fine. 

    -- Neal Martin (90-92) Neal Martin 2022 - 2038 Not Available Jan 2019

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Faiveley 2014 Corton Clos des Cortons 1 Case 3 150cl £580
  • Tasting note: A fresh, cool and moderately restrained nose speaks of various red and dark berries along with plenty of iron-inflected earth, animale and pretty floral nuances. The lush, even opulent flavors certainly don't lack for size, weight and power as they coat the palate while buffering the notably firm tannic spine on the muscular, driving and wonderfully persistent finish. This too is impressively concentrated and built-to-age.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Faiveley 2016 Corton Clos des Cortons 1 Case 6 75cl £770
  •  "Bright ruby. Fruit-driven aromas of crushed black cherry and dark raspberry convey outstanding pungent lift. Incredibly concentrated, sappy and primary, conveying outstanding juicy purity and compelling thickness to its dark fruit and violet flavors. At once hugely powerful and utterly seamless, this wine finishes with great spicy length and lift. A real essence of Burgundy--and likely to evolve gracefully for 25 years or more"

    95-98 Points Stephen Tanzer

Tasting Notes
98
Red Burgundy Maillard 2005 Corton Renardes 11 Bottle 75cl £75£55
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2009 Echezeaux 1 Case 6 75cl £760
  • Tasting note: In stark contrast to the fresh, bright and expressive nose that I saw from cask, this has shut down hard and while persistent swirling and plenty air coaxes subtle spice notes as well as plum and red cherry to emerge, it's clear that this is going to require some bottle age before it blossoms. Otherwise there is fine concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate on the delicious, complex, balanced and lingering finish that evidences very firm tannins that impart a notable austerity. A "buy and forget" wine built for the long-term.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Coquard Loison Fleurot 2015 Echezeaux 1 Case 6 75cl £1,000
  • The 2015 Echézeaux Grand Cru offers attractive, pure black cherry and raspberry notes that have been given a good lick of oak, but the wood feels simpatico to the fruit tucked in behind. The plush, flamboyant palate is medium-bodied with silky-smooth tannins. There is satisfying delineation and focus on the velvety-smooth finish, which lingers nicely in the mouth. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. 

    -- Neal Martin 94 Neal Martin 2022 - 2045

    Nov 2018

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2017 Echezeaux 1 Bottle 75cl £1,450
  • 92-95 BH - Tasting note: Firm reduction. The finer and slightly denser flavors possess solid dry extract as well as a velvety and highly sappy seductive mouthfeel where the extract does a good job of buffering the long, complex and mocha-infused finish. Lovel

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Dujac 2012 Echezeaux 1 Bottle 75cl £415
  • Domaine Dujac
    2012
    Echézeaux
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
    Drink: 2022+
    Issue: 57
    Note: from the climat Champs Traversin
    Producer note: Jeremy Seysses describes the 2013 vintage as "a very wet vintage that threw its fair share of challenges at us during the growing season. The flowering was troubled and resulted in a high percentage of shot berries which is great for wine quality but not for quantity. Things didn't go well for most of the season though we did have a 30 day window of beautiful weather between the middle of August to the middle of September. Then conditions turned wet again and generally speaking there was rot pressure beginning to build. We waited a bit longer than many of our neighbors and didn't begin picking until the 7th of October and continued through to the 13th. As a whole the fruit was pretty clean though some sectors required more sorting than others. Quantities came in slightly lower than what we obtained in 2012 but this isn't true across the board as some parcels gave us more and others less. Potential alcohols were variable as well with a range of 11.4 to 12.4% though I underscore that I'm using a conversion rate of 18 grams of sugar per liter which is a good deal more conservative than the regulatory rate. Acidities are firm without being aggressive and remind me of what we had in 2008. We used a bit less whole clusters than we usually do which is to say on average about 70% though the actual range is from 33 to 100%. As to the wines, my view is that 2013 is a classic Burgundian vintage and at the very least it's a good year. To bracket that comment somewhat I prefer 2013 to 2011 but not to 2010 or 2012." The 2012s, revisited below, were bottled between December 2013 and March 2014. (The Sorting Table, www.thesortingtable.com, Napa, CA (excludes CA and HI) and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA (CA and HI); O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, all UK) .
    Tasting note: An exuberantly spicy and floral nose features a variety of red berry fruit scents laced with hints of sandalwood and Asian spices. There is a silky and restrained mouth feel to the intense, concentrated and detailed flavors that brim with dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the moderately firm tannins on the lingering finale. This is unusually accessible in the context of the Dujac 2012s and should drink well earlier than any of these grand crus.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Rouget, Emmanuel 2005 Echezeaux 1 Case 12 75cl £12,500
  • A ripe, expressive and airy nose that combines both upper and mid-level register fruit notes that include red pinot, black berry and violet notes trimmed in moderate wood spice as well as natural spice notes of clove and anise that can also be found on the round, rich and beautifully balanced big-bodied flavors that are powerful, long and more stylish than usual. This is a terrific Ech that should be capable of at least a decade's worth of improvement.

    Score: 91/94 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (25), January 2007

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Gros, Anne 2018 Echezeaux Les Loachausses 1 Case 6 75cl £900
  • Domaine Anne Gros
    2018
    Echézeaux - Les Loächausses
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 88-91
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
    Drink: 2027+
    Issue: 77
    Note: from a .76 ha parcel, which is about 30% of the total climat
    Producer note: Anne Gros' daughter Julie is progressively assuming more and more responsibility for the day to day operations and she is the one with whom I did this year's tasting. Her brief take on the 2018 vintage is that "we are really quite happy with both the quality and the quantity of what we brought in. The vinifications were straightforward as the fruit was clean and ripe and we have encountered no difficulties during the élevage either. The wines are ripe yet fresh and we think that they will be very popular with our clients." (Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, CA, Bertrand's Wines, www.bertrandswines.com, NY, Dionysus Imports, www.dionysusimports.com, VA, H2Vino, www.h2vino.com, IL, North Berkeley Imports, www.northberkeleyimports.com, CA, all USA; Asset Wines, www.assetwines.com, Adnams & Co, www.adnams.co.uk, Albion Wine Shippers, www.albionwineshippers.co.uk, Domaine Direct, www.domainedirect.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Lea & Sandeman, www.leaandsandeman.co.uk, all UK).
    Tasting note: There is enough reduction present to mask the underlying fruit though discreet spice elements can be discerned. As one would expect, there is notably more size, weight and power to the broad-shouldered flavors that also display a somewhat dry and short finish. The supporting tannins seem ripe though at present they're fairly grippy. This too presents a question mark.
     

Tasting Notes
91
Red Burgundy Mortet 2011 Fixin Vieilles Vignes 10 Bottle 75cl £60
  • Domaine Denis Mortet
    2011
    Fixin Vieilles Vignes
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 88
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2017+
    Issue: 53
    Note: from 40 year old vines in the tiny .74 ha vineyard of Champs Pennebaut, which is near the Couchey border for the inveterate map readers among you
    Producer note: Arnaud Mortet observed that the 2012 vintage "suffered through a troubled and extended flowering that was responsible for much of the naturally low yields. The bunches were loose and with tiny berries that allowed the fruit to be super clean at the harvest. I decided to start picking on the 23rd of September and brought in ripe fruit that needed only small amounts of chaptalization and in some cases, none at all. As I have been slowly doing each vintage now, I once again lightened the extraction. I shortened the cool maceration period from 7 days to 5 and did a 21 day total cuvaison. In the same vein I used a bit less new wood as well and it now averages about one-third though that of course varies wine by wine. I completely destemmed in 2012 though I have been thinking about doing some more experimenting with using some whole clusters so we will see going forward. As to the style of the 2012s I think it's the kind of vintage that everyone will like. The wines are ripe but fresh and with a mid-palate succulence that makes them a pleasure to drink." As I commented last year the Mortet 2011s are excellent and now that they are in bottle they confirm the quality that I saw last year. Mortet noted that his 2011s, revisited below, were bottled between January and April, 2013. (Martine's Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, and The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk).
    Tasting note: An adroit application of wood sets off fresh and ripe if somber aromas of dark berries, violets and plum. The very round, suave and supple flavors display both good energy and fine volume before terminating in a balanced and persistent finish that exhibits a bit of youthful Fixin austerity and rusticity.
     

Tasting Notes
88
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2017 Gevrey 1er Cru Clos Prieur 2 Case 6 75cl £450
  • Cask sample. Scented again like so many of these Drouhin 2017s, scented with dark-red fruit and a stemmy freshness. Peppery, firm, spicy and generous even in its elegant framework. Long and satisfying and fresh. 
    17+/20 Julia Harding jancisrobinson.com (Nov-2018)

Tasting Notes
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2019 Gevrey 1er Cru Prieur 3 Case 6 75cl £475
  • 2019 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru

    The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru comes from purchased fruit and includes 30% whole cluster. It has an attractive bouquet of red plum, blood orange and a light tang of seaweed. The medium-bodied palate offers supple tannins and fine acidity. Fleshy and ripe with a touch of white pepper on the finish. Good body and weight. This is quite a "gutsy" Clos Prieur with good substance. 

    -- Neal Martin (90-92) Neal Martin 2023 - 2038 Not Available Dec 2020

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Rousseau 2009 Gevrey Chambertin 1 Case 12 75cl £3,800
  • GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VILLAGES

    The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin is pure silk on the palate. Layers of flavor emerge gracefully from this weightless, totally refined wine. A model of understated elegance, the Gevrey makes a great introduction to the wines of Eric Rousseau. 

    -- Antonio Galloni 90 Antonio Galloni 

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2019 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers 1 Case 6 75cl £520
Red Burgundy 2016 Gevrey Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1 Case 6 75cl £290
  • Maison Roche de Bellene
    2016
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaut St. Jacques"
    1er Cru Red barrel
    Score: 88-90
    Tasted: Apr 15, 2018
    Drink: 2024+
    Issue: 70
    Producer note: Please see the introduction to Domaine de Bellene above for further information. Note that all of the wines are bottled under Diam corks that are stamped with the relevant information that includes producer, vintage and appellation. 
    Tasting note: There is a hint of prune to the broad-ranging nose of menthol, cassis, violet and black raspberry. The velvety, round and mouth coating flavors possess good punch and minerality on the slightly sweet and warm finish. This is perfectly OK but again it's hard to see this ever becoming a wine of distinction.
     

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 1996 Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles 3 Bottle 75cl £225
  • Domaine Dugat-Py
    1996
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Evocelles"
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
     
    Tasting note: Sauvage, mineral and freshly turned earth aromas merge seamless with the intense black fruit nose that leads to sweet, fine, dense and remarkably long flavors of excellent complexity. This is nothing short of stunning at this level and I highly recommend it though be sure to give it plenty of time, assuming that you can keep your hands off of it!
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Jadot, Louis 2012 Gevrey Estournelles St Jacques 2 Case 6 75cl £350
Red Burgundy Ponsot 2005 Griotte Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £2,100
  •  Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin

    Good ruby-red. Sappy, liqueur-like aromas of griotte cherry and black raspberry. Wonderfully intense and concentrated, with a nearly confectionery sweetness to its explosive fruit flavors. Like the Cuvee des Alouettes, this comes across as a bit high-toned and will require careful attention during its final months of elevage But offers great potential.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 92-95 Stephen Tanzer
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Fourrier 2012 Griotte Chambertin Vieille Vigne 1 Bottle 75cl £750
94
Red Burgundy Lamarche, Francois 1996 La Grand Rue 7 Bottle 75cl £480
NV La Grande Rue 7 Bottle 75cl £400
NV La Grande Rue 7 Bottle 75cl £350

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