Red Burgundy

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CSV
Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Case Size Format Price Note Rating
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2011 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 12 75cl £1,050
  • Domaine Château de la Tour
    2011
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 53
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2012 was a "challenging vintage in the Côte de Nuits for a wide variety of reasons up until the 10th of August, but it was even more challenging in the Côte de Beaune. Once we arrived at the 10th of August though it was generally remarkable how quickly the vines recovered and got the fruit ripening process back on track. Before that though the flowering was quite troubled and resulted in a lot of shatter and shot berries. While there was some disease pressure, most notably from mildew, we were able to limit the damage by treating when and how it was necessary. We began picking on the 23rd of September and brought in very clean and phenolically mature fruit and I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality as I never expected it to be as good as it was. As to the wines, they are rich, powerful and very generous yet well-balanced wines that will have that rare ability to give pleasure young but because of the concentration, age for years too. I think that they will surprise a lot of people by how well they age." It seems that Labet rarely misses anymore and 2012 is no exception. The 2011s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2013. See also the Progress Report herein regarding an extensive Château de la Tour vertical. (Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Deep ruby. An intensely floral nose is composed of cool but ripe red pinot, dark currant and plenty of pungent earth scents. There is more size, weight, power and concentration to the imposingly constructed flavors that are both supported and shaped by the tightly wound and extremely firm tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating and hugely persistent finish. This displays terrific potential but it is a robust wine to buy only if you have the wherewithal and patience to wait.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2013 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Case 6 75cl £2,600
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2013
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2016
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 61
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane and Labet noted that it was vinified with no sulfur; about 600 bottles will be produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2014 is a "beautiful vintage that produced succulent and refreshing wines that possess excellent maturity levels. The growing season was not without a few challenges but it was certainly easier than either 2012 or 2013. For example we suffered some hail damage in June and while ultimately we were not affected by the Suzukii infestation that doesn't mean we weren't worried about it. The summer was lousy and by the middle of August I began to wonder if we were going to have sufficient maturity levels to make good wines. Near perfect conditions returned right at the end of August, and September was magnificent and ripeness levels spiked rapidly. We began picking on the 24th of September and while there was a bit of sorting required it was less than usual. The fruit was clean and with very thick skins that gave us excellent colors rapidly. I really like the style of the 2014s as they are already pleasurable though they have the mid-palate stuffing and balance to age well." Labet said that there would be no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. Labet noted that his 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2015. (Caveau Selections, www.caveauselections.com, Portland, OR, Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: The oak influence is a bit more subtle though by no means invisible as it suffuses the very spicy plum liqueur-like aromas that are liberally laced with earth, exotic tea and dried floral scents. There is a lush, even opulent mouth feel to the dense big-bodied flavors that possess excellent size, weight and power yet the palate impression is finer, partially because the dry extract enrobes the tannins but also because the tannins themselves are finer on the massively long finish. The level of dry extract present here is simply amazing and this is going to require at least 20 years to realize all of the incredible upside development potential. Flat out terrific!
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vouget Cuvee Classique 1 Case 6 75cl £625
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2028+
    Issue: 69
    Note: from yields of 20 hl/ha in 2016
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: A ripe and very fresh nose offers up notes of maraschino cherry, plum, raspberry, spice and distinct floral wisps. There is excellent concentration to the succulent but quite powerful big-bodied flavors that possess a sleek mouthfeel thanks to the relatively refined tannins shaping the youthfully austere finish that flashes fine depth on the highly persistent finish. I like the balance and this should age effortlessly.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 3 Case 6 75cl £925
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2031+
    Issue: 69
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Here too there is a pretty maraschino cherry note sitting atop the slightly riper array of super-fresh plum, black cherry, cassis and violet-scented aromas. The naturally sweet and beautifully concentrated broad-shouldered flavors brim with sappy dry extract before culminating in an overtly powerful and driving finish where the intensity really builds from the mid-palate on to the explosive backend. The old vines are very much apparent and this should also age effortlessly for years.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Case 6 75cl £3,300
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 93-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 69
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane; 900 bottles produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Hints of wood and menthol can be found on the even riper nose that is composed by notes of extract of black cherry, dark raspberry, anise, rose petal and a whiff of earth. Once again there is superb mid-palate density to the opulent yet exceptionally serious and imposingly-scaled flavors that are shaped by a firm core of robust tannins on the hugely long yet impeccably well-balanced finish. Unlike the prior two cuvées that could perhaps be enjoyed in their youth, this is expressly built-to-age and is going to need plenty of it. Impressive.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Bottle 150cl £925
  • Tasting note: Very generous wood stops just short of being dominant on the red pinot fruit, mocha, forest floor and newly turned earth. There is outstanding concentration to the big-bodied and overtly powerful flavors that brim with dry extract that serves to buffer the very firm but not really robust or especially austere finale. This is certainly a big wine but I don't find the separation that I normally find between this and the old vines cuvée though it may separate more clearly in time.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Cuvee Classique 1 Case 6 75cl £695
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 6 75cl £895
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2017
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
    Drink: 2032+
    Issue: 77
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2018 had "a very large fruit set so even with our high percentage of old vines, it was critical to control yields because if you didn't, even with the very hot temperatures it was difficult to obtain sufficient phenolic maturity. I began picking my chardonnay on the 4th of September and picked both my Côte de Beaune pinot [sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 78 and 79]. We chose to begin picking the Clos on the 7th of September and picked slowly as the conditions were warm but largely ideal. The fruit was very clean with yields that varied between 35 and 38 hl/ha. The potential alcohols were actually pretty reasonable considering the heat as nothing came in over 14% and most were right at 13.5%. We used 100% whole clusters for the vinifications and the fermentations gave us no particular concerns. The style of the 2018s isn't classic but given how much they have freshened over the course of the élevage, they may well surprise people as to how they evolve over the longer term." The 2017s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2019. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, www.watsonswine.com, Hong Kong).
    Tasting note: Similar wood treatment with a touch of menthol is present on the red berry aromas. There is better mid-palate density to the broad-shouldered and powerful flavors that possess excellent depth and persistence on the balanced and youthfully austere finish where a hint of wood resurfaces. There is much better than average concentration in the context of what is typical for the 2017 vintage though note well that this is presently very backward.
     

Tasting Notes
93
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