Saturated ruby. Knockout nose combines kirsch, minerals, game and torrefaction notes of espresso and chocolate. Wonderfully sweet and thick, but enlivened by adequate acids and strong minerality. Very intense fruit flavors of blackberry and blueberry, complicated by a note of dark chocolate. Muscular but broad and pliant.
-- Stephen Tanzer 89-92 Stephen Tanzer
Gevrey-Chambertin "Evocelles" ♥
Villages Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 01, 2001
Note: a miniscule 18 hl/ha from 70 year old vines and 100% new oak
Producer note: Bernard Dugat has once again fashioned some of the best wines of the vintage. The wines are dramatic, bold, rich, nuanced, superbly dense and yet for all this, reflect reasonably well their underlying terroirs. He has added a new wine to his range with a one-third hectare parcel of 75-year-old Vosne villages vines; this brings the size of the Domaine to slightly over 7 hectares. The cheerful, friendly Bernard proudly told me that 1999 represents the 25th vintage for him.
He is very excited about his 99s and rightly so. His approach to the vintage was largely the same as usual which chez Dugat means that Bernard destemmed 70 to 75% of the fruit, did not cold macerate, had a total cuvaison of 20 to 22 days and was neither obliged to chaptalize or acidulate (the wines have natural alcohol levels of around 13%). He varied the amount of new oak considerably, depending on the cru in question. As the scores and notes indicate, these are some of the most exciting wines made anywhere in the Côte.
Tasting note: Extremely ripe fruit, intense yet round flavors of Gevrey earth and soil undertones and big, ripe tannins. The old vines character is quite evident and the length here is extraordinary. Another gorgeous villages.