Red Burgundy

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Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Case Size Format Price Note Rating
Red Burgundy Bachelet, Denis 2003 Charmes Chambertin Vielles Vignes 2 Bottle 75cl £325£299
  • Deep ruby-red. Expressive aromas of blackberry liqueur, bitter chocolate and coffee; more open than the Corbeaux today. Then superripe in the mouth but a bit less forthcoming, with explosive, surprisingly primary flavors of blackberry and dark chocolate. Boasts a huge middle, especially for a Bachelet wine, but also more finesse than the Corbeaux. This reminded me a bit of a top pinot from the Sonoma Coast. Spreads out to coat the entire palate and mounts slowly and inexorably on the back. A very deep, black fruit-dominated Charmes that's quite fresh for the year. Lay this down for a few years or give it time in a decanter.

    -- Stephen Tanzer

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Bachelet, Denis 2004 Charmes Chambertin 8 Bottle 75cl £285£265
  • Domaine Denis Bachelet
    2004
    Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2007
    Drink: 2014+
    Issue: 25
    Note: from a .44 ha parcel of 80+ year old vines situated directly across from Chambertin
    Producer note: In Denis Bachelet's view, 2005 is a "grand millésime. It's at least as good as 1999 and 2002 and perhaps better. We had a perfect growing season with a consistency and cleanliness of fruit that was even better than both of those two prior vintages. It was quite dry and thus we had very good but not excessive sugars, coming in between 12.5 and 13% with normal yields. I did a cool maceration of between 5 to 8 days depending on the wine and then didn't push the extraction as the skins were thick and gave up their colors and dry extract without much coaxing. The malos were extended, which I believe had as much to do with the cool 2006 growing season as with the amount of malic acid the 2005's possessed to begin with. In fact, between the extra concentration the wines are carrying and the late malos, I may very well delay the mise for another month or two to compensate as the wines seem to be improving month by month in barrel. Overall, I am extremely happy with my '05s and I am convinced that I have never made a better Charmes though obviously time will be the final judge of that." I would agree with Bachelet, not only on his Charmes but in general that his '05s are indeed spectacular. Moreover, the Côte de Nuits-Villages is among the very best of the entire vintage for its class. (A Becky Wasserman/Le Serbet Selection - sbw@leserbet.fr; Berry Bros., Howard Ripley and The Wine Society, UK).
    Tasting note: The recent bottling has caused the nose to become relatively reticent compared to the prior wines though glimpses of the beautifully complex, elegant, refined and pure red pinot and black cherry fruit aromas are visible. The sweet, supple and forward flavors possess notably good length and near perfect balance and the underlying structure on the linear and impressively well delineated finish suggests that this will improve for up to a decade, perhaps slightly longer.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de la Roche 1 Bottle 75cl £290
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de Beze 1 Bottle 75cl £425
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Gevrey 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 1 Case 6 75cl £725
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Grand Cru Limited Edition Mixed Case 1 Case 7 75cl £2,450
  • One Bottle of each - Chambertin, Mazis Chambertin, Clos de Beze, Bonnes Mares, Clos de la Roche, Clos de Vougeot, Charmes Chambertin

Tasting Notes
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2016 Charmes Chambertin 1 Bottle 75cl £275
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2016 Grand Cru Limited Edition Mixed Case 1 Case 7 75cl £2,750
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 6 75cl £1,075
  • Tasting note: In contrast to many of the wines in the range that are quite expressive, this is actually quite reticent if not downright mute with very ripe but elusive aromas of mocha, plum and spicy cassis. The extremely rich, powerful and concentrated big-bodied flavors possess a suave mouth feel as the sap almost completely buffers the unusually generous but quite serious and long finish. This is a classic Bonnes Mares in terms of its underlying architecture and should require between 15 and 20 years to be at its best.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Bonnes Mares 2 Case 6 75cl £950
  • Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
    2010
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Apr 01, 2012
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 46
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a .24 ha mix of terres rouges and terres blanches but with a bit more of the former
    Producer note: Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, noted that 2010 was "an up and down growing season with a difficult flowering that resulted in a very small crop with a very high percentage of shot berries, especially in the Côte de Beaune. We began picking on the 20th of September and picked through the 1st of October. The harvest conditions were very cool so the super clean fruit arrived at the cuverie at much more reduced temperatures than is typical. This allowed for longer and entirely natural cool macerations. The harvest itself though was less stressful than usual for the simple reason that various parcels were ready at different times due to the highly heterogeneous flowering and thus we could methodically organize our harvest regimen. Moreover, thanks to the tiny crop and cool harvest weather we had absolutely no rot pressure so again, we could pick when we chose. By contrast 2009 and 2011 saw everything basically ready at the same time so it was much more difficult to optimize the harvest for each parcel. I did our normal vinification with one exception which is that I opted to use a higher percentage of whole clusters than usual though not for all wines. In fact, particularly in the Côte de Beaune it tended to be a lot or a little but not much in between. We also elected to reduce the percentages of new wood and a rough estimate would be 15 to 30% for the villages wines, 35 to 45% for the minor 1ers, 35 to 55% for the major 1ers and between 55 to 75% for the grands crus. We used one-year old wood for the remainder. As to the wines, they have lots of energy and really speak of their underlying terroirs. They're classic burgundies if you will. As to relative performance, every commune in the Côte de Nuits was excellent though if I had to choose just one, then I would anoint Gevrey as the star. In the Côte de Beaune it wasn't quite so homogenous. The best village in my view was Pommard though Volnay was only just behind. Savigny and Beaune were also both quite good if not exactly at the same level." Proust noted that the reds were bottled in December, 2011 and January, 2012 and most wines were not filtered and none were fined. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Soft wood influence does not materially diminish the lightly spiced and beautifully fresh nose that is composed of red berry fruit, stone hints and earth nuances. The remarkably rich, round and concentrated flavors exude a focused power while coating the palate with impressive reserves of dry extract that also buffer the very firm tannins. This should be excellent in time as there is outstanding intensity yet impeccable balance and length.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze 1 Case 3 75cl £560
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze 3 Case 6 75cl £1,125
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 3 Case 6 75cl £215
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Clos de Beze 3 Case 12 75cl £1,925
  • Tasting note: More subtle though still prominent oak can be found on the much more reserved red currant and dark berry-suffused nose that displays an astonishing array of spice, exotic tea and soft earth aromas. There is better energy as well as more evident minerality on the sleek and sophisticated flavors that deliver superb length and depth on the balanced finale. This is a powerful but classy effort that, very much like the Le Corton, is going to need a long stay in a cool cellar to fully resolve the supporting structure.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 12 75cl £2,350
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2016 Volnay Caillerets Cuvee Carnot - Domaine 1 Case 12 75cl £550
  • Tasting note: More discreet wood more easily allows the overtly spicy aromas of poached plum, lavender and tea, The round yet reasonably well-detailed flavors possess a sophisticated mouth feel as well as fine mid-palate density, all wrapped in a youthfully austere, mineral-driven and very firm finish. Unlike the Grèves however, this excellent effort should be reasonably approachable after 5 to 7 years. Burghound 

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2016 Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £1,450
  • (from a 0.8-hectoliter parcel of very old vines close to the forest; one of the two barrels was new): Good ruby-red. Delicate scents of kirsch, violet and bitter chocolate convey an impression of medicinal reserve. Concentrated and penetrating if not particularly expressive today, with its very dark flavors of blackberry and licorice pastille in need of a bit more pliancy. This rather brooding, youthfully imploded Chambertin stands out more for its high pitch than for its depth and complexity. I'm not yet convinced.

    -- Stephen Tanzer(91-94)Stephen Tanzer$410.00Jan 2018

     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Greves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus 1 Case 12 75cl £730
  • The 2017 Beaune Les Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus 1er Cru comes from the 3.91-hectare parcel on the mid-slope, currently undergoing piecemeal replanting. It has a wonderful, expressive bouquet of dark cherries, wild strawberry and crushed stone that is easily the best of Bouchard’s Beaune Premier Crus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and well-judged acidity, perhaps a little oakier than the Les Teurons but with more depth and precision on the finish. Great potential. Drink 2021-2038.

    Score: 91/93 Neal Martin, vinous.com (49), January 2019

    The 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus exhibits aromas of incense, cassis, blackberry, grilled meat, espresso roast and dark chocolate. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, fleshy and richly structured, with a generous, oak-inflected finish. While this is unlikely to surpass the 2015 and 2016 renditions in ultimate quality, it will offer more immediate gratification.

    Score: 90/92 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, January 2019

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Chambertin 1 Case 12 75cl £2,125
  • The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru comes from a single parcel from the upper slopes (0.30 hectares). It has an outgoing, slightly spicy/Oriental bouquet, with hints of hoisin suffusing the black and red fruit and a discreet tobacco note underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, juicy tannin. This is quite grippy toward the finish, although it needs more brightness and refinement on the finish, which at the moment feels quite solid.

    Score: 90/92 Neal Martin, vinous.com (49), January 2019

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 12 75cl £2,400
  • The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from a 0.23-hectare parcel close to the Morey commune. This has a superior bouquet to the Echézeaux, more controlled and detailed, offering lovely floral, violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity, and fleshy and generous toward the finish. Good potential here. Drink 2022-2040.

    Score: 91/93 Neal Martin, vinous.com (49), January 2019

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Clos de Beze 1 Case 12 75cl £2,550
  • The 2017 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a rich, generous bouquet of copious red cherry and wild strawberry fruit tinged with Earl Grey and tobacco. The palate is well balanced with fine, supple tannin and a keen line of acidity. This is precise, not overly complex, but very well proportioned, building gradually toward the grippy yet elegant finish. Excellent. Drink 2022-2040.

    Score: 92/94Neal Martin, vinous.com, January 2019

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2018 Beaune 1er Cru Greves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus 4 Case 6 75cl £395
Red Burgundy Bouzereau 2012 Corton Clos des Fietres 2 Case 6 75cl £275
Red Burgundy Cacheux 1996 Echezeaux 6 Bottle 75cl £85
Red Burgundy Cathiard, Sylvain 2017 Chambolle Les Clos de l'Orme 1 Case 6 75cl £650
  • Tasting note: Here there is no reductive funk with its expressive and high-toned nose of essence of red cherry, raspberry and a whiff of herbal tea. The cool, sleek and detailed flavors possess a lacy texture before culminating in a seductive, stony and youthfully austere finale. This is, at least today, the best of the Cathiard villages level wines and a wine that should ample repay mid-term cellaring.

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2011 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 12 75cl £1,050
  • Domaine Château de la Tour
    2011
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 53
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2012 was a "challenging vintage in the Côte de Nuits for a wide variety of reasons up until the 10th of August, but it was even more challenging in the Côte de Beaune. Once we arrived at the 10th of August though it was generally remarkable how quickly the vines recovered and got the fruit ripening process back on track. Before that though the flowering was quite troubled and resulted in a lot of shatter and shot berries. While there was some disease pressure, most notably from mildew, we were able to limit the damage by treating when and how it was necessary. We began picking on the 23rd of September and brought in very clean and phenolically mature fruit and I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality as I never expected it to be as good as it was. As to the wines, they are rich, powerful and very generous yet well-balanced wines that will have that rare ability to give pleasure young but because of the concentration, age for years too. I think that they will surprise a lot of people by how well they age." It seems that Labet rarely misses anymore and 2012 is no exception. The 2011s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2013. See also the Progress Report herein regarding an extensive Château de la Tour vertical. (Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Deep ruby. An intensely floral nose is composed of cool but ripe red pinot, dark currant and plenty of pungent earth scents. There is more size, weight, power and concentration to the imposingly constructed flavors that are both supported and shaped by the tightly wound and extremely firm tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating and hugely persistent finish. This displays terrific potential but it is a robust wine to buy only if you have the wherewithal and patience to wait.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2013 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Case 6 75cl £2,450
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2013
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2016
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 61
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane and Labet noted that it was vinified with no sulfur; about 600 bottles will be produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2014 is a "beautiful vintage that produced succulent and refreshing wines that possess excellent maturity levels. The growing season was not without a few challenges but it was certainly easier than either 2012 or 2013. For example we suffered some hail damage in June and while ultimately we were not affected by the Suzukii infestation that doesn't mean we weren't worried about it. The summer was lousy and by the middle of August I began to wonder if we were going to have sufficient maturity levels to make good wines. Near perfect conditions returned right at the end of August, and September was magnificent and ripeness levels spiked rapidly. We began picking on the 24th of September and while there was a bit of sorting required it was less than usual. The fruit was clean and with very thick skins that gave us excellent colors rapidly. I really like the style of the 2014s as they are already pleasurable though they have the mid-palate stuffing and balance to age well." Labet said that there would be no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. Labet noted that his 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2015. (Caveau Selections, www.caveauselections.com, Portland, OR, Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: The oak influence is a bit more subtle though by no means invisible as it suffuses the very spicy plum liqueur-like aromas that are liberally laced with earth, exotic tea and dried floral scents. There is a lush, even opulent mouth feel to the dense big-bodied flavors that possess excellent size, weight and power yet the palate impression is finer, partially because the dry extract enrobes the tannins but also because the tannins themselves are finer on the massively long finish. The level of dry extract present here is simply amazing and this is going to require at least 20 years to realize all of the incredible upside development potential. Flat out terrific!
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2014 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 6 75cl £1,500
  • Château de La Tour
    2014
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 65
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2015 was a "precocious vintage where we realized relatively tiny yields in Clos de Vougeot thanks to a very high incidence of shatter during the flowering, which is to say around 20 hl/ha. We chose to begin harvesting on the 8th of September and the fruit was spotlessly clean, ripe and with very thick skins. The vinifications were easy and we did almost no punching down as it would have been very easy to extract too much structure. As to the wines they are still of course developing but they appear to be extremely promising. The tannins are phenolically mature and the fruit is very ripe yet it's not ripe in the same fashion as say 2003 or 2009 and thus the terroir transparency is better. I like them a lot and they should be reasonably approachable young yet they're so concentrated that they should age for decades." The La Tour 2015s are indeed very promising and should prove to be exceptionally long-lived. That said, don't miss their 2014s either as they too are first-rate. I remind readers that there was no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. The 2014s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2016. (Terlato Wines, Lake Bluff, Il; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Here the nose is compositionally similar to that of the regular cuvée but as is usually the case it is more reserved, more complex and the wood treatment is more subtle. There is notably better concentration to the impressively rich, powerful and muscular big-bodied flavors are shaped by dense but relatively fine tannins on the wonderfully long, balanced and again youthfully austere finale. This terrific effort is really most impressive though note well that it is going to need at least 10 years of bottle age and reward 15 to 18.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vouget Cuvee Classique 1 Case 6 75cl £625
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2028+
    Issue: 69
    Note: from yields of 20 hl/ha in 2016
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: A ripe and very fresh nose offers up notes of maraschino cherry, plum, raspberry, spice and distinct floral wisps. There is excellent concentration to the succulent but quite powerful big-bodied flavors that possess a sleek mouthfeel thanks to the relatively refined tannins shaping the youthfully austere finish that flashes fine depth on the highly persistent finish. I like the balance and this should age effortlessly.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 3 Case 6 75cl £925
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2031+
    Issue: 69
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Here too there is a pretty maraschino cherry note sitting atop the slightly riper array of super-fresh plum, black cherry, cassis and violet-scented aromas. The naturally sweet and beautifully concentrated broad-shouldered flavors brim with sappy dry extract before culminating in an overtly powerful and driving finish where the intensity really builds from the mid-palate on to the explosive backend. The old vines are very much apparent and this should also age effortlessly for years.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Case 6 75cl £3,300
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 93-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 69
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane; 900 bottles produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Hints of wood and menthol can be found on the even riper nose that is composed by notes of extract of black cherry, dark raspberry, anise, rose petal and a whiff of earth. Once again there is superb mid-palate density to the opulent yet exceptionally serious and imposingly-scaled flavors that are shaped by a firm core of robust tannins on the hugely long yet impeccably well-balanced finish. Unlike the prior two cuvées that could perhaps be enjoyed in their youth, this is expressly built-to-age and is going to need plenty of it. Impressive.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Bottle 150cl £925
  • Tasting note: Very generous wood stops just short of being dominant on the red pinot fruit, mocha, forest floor and newly turned earth. There is outstanding concentration to the big-bodied and overtly powerful flavors that brim with dry extract that serves to buffer the very firm but not really robust or especially austere finale. This is certainly a big wine but I don't find the separation that I normally find between this and the old vines cuvée though it may separate more clearly in time.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Cuvee Classique 1 Case 6 75cl £695
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 6 75cl £895
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2017
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
    Drink: 2032+
    Issue: 77
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2018 had "a very large fruit set so even with our high percentage of old vines, it was critical to control yields because if you didn't, even with the very hot temperatures it was difficult to obtain sufficient phenolic maturity. I began picking my chardonnay on the 4th of September and picked both my Côte de Beaune pinot [sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 78 and 79]. We chose to begin picking the Clos on the 7th of September and picked slowly as the conditions were warm but largely ideal. The fruit was very clean with yields that varied between 35 and 38 hl/ha. The potential alcohols were actually pretty reasonable considering the heat as nothing came in over 14% and most were right at 13.5%. We used 100% whole clusters for the vinifications and the fermentations gave us no particular concerns. The style of the 2018s isn't classic but given how much they have freshened over the course of the élevage, they may well surprise people as to how they evolve over the longer term." The 2017s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2019. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, www.watsonswine.com, Hong Kong).
    Tasting note: Similar wood treatment with a touch of menthol is present on the red berry aromas. There is better mid-palate density to the broad-shouldered and powerful flavors that possess excellent depth and persistence on the balanced and youthfully austere finish where a hint of wood resurfaces. There is much better than average concentration in the context of what is typical for the 2017 vintage though note well that this is presently very backward.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chevillon, Robert 2002 Nuits 1er Cru Chaignots 4 Bottle 75cl £95
  • Tasting note: Here there is a completely different expression as the earth, leather and iron quality plus floral notes dominate the expressive red fruit nose and rich, superbly intense flavors that both coat and stain the palate with buckets of sappy extract. To be sure, this is no model of finesse though it is by no means rustic either but the complexity, quality of material and harmony combine to create a wine of lovely potential.
     

Tasting Notes
89

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