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Red Burgundy

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Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Case Size Format Price Note Rating
Red Burgundy Barthod, Ghislaine 2017 Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 1 Case 3 75cl £320
  • Rating

    (92 - 94)

    Release Price

    NA

    Drink Date

    2021 - 2040

    Reviewed by

    Neal Martin

    Issue Date

    29th Dec 2017

    Source

    234, The Wine Advocate

    The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras was severely affected by the frost, with 70% less production than normal, or just six barrels this year. It has a tightly wound bouquet with dark berry fruit, wild strawberry, mulberry and light graphite scents that come through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, impressive density and energy, a little confit-like towards the finish that has more spiciness than the Véroilles or Les Fuées. Excellent, maybe one of the longer-term Chambolles from the domaine.

    There was some trepidation as Ghislaine Barthod came out to greet me with her husband Louis Boillot. The question spinning around in my mind: how bad was it? Chambolle-Musigny was acutely affected by the frost and with practically all their vines located within that very appellation, I prepared for the worst. The empty cellar was an ominous sign. Where usually there are two tiers of barrels on top of each other, for the most part there was just one. “The frost was terrible,” Ghislaine confirmed. “This vintage there is no Chambolle-Musigny Combottes or Chatelots. They were completely wiped out and we just had a handful of crates. I have made a few vintages so I am used to things like this, but the affect on my son…he was devastated. We picked from 24 September and over the following six days, using around half the team, the same that pick Louis’ wines.” I have included exact quantities of each surviving cuvée within the tasting notes. The only vineyard that offered some relief from the frost was Les Véroilles, which Ghislaine believes escaped the worst because it is located in a small hollow. At least the 2017 vintage is plentiful and Ghislaine has not lost her sense of humor. “I had one UK importer who asked about his allocation. I told him that he had just drunk it,” she told me. While their 2016s are not up there with the 2015s, they managed to eke out small quantities of fine-boned, elegant wines that might not have the depth or the power of a more benevolent growing season, yet attest to the high standard of winemaking, so that they make the best of what they can. The Chambolle Les Fuées still captures the essence of what makes this vineyard one of the best premier crus in the appellation while the Les Véroilles is one of the best that I have tasted in recent years. There is always consistency across the range from Ghislaine-Barthod and despite the sturm und drang of frost and mildew, that remains in this vintage with the exception of a rather lean Bourgogne Rouge. Ghislaine will be back next year with much more quantity to offer and hopefully that UK importer will not drink his company’s entire allocation (though knowing the gentleman in question that would not surprise me).

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de la Roche 1 Bottle 75cl £290
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Clos de Beze 1 Bottle 75cl £425
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Gevrey 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 1 Case 6 75cl £725
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2015 Grand Cru Limited Edition Mixed Case 1 Case 7 75cl £2,450
  • One Bottle of each - Chambertin, Mazis Chambertin, Clos de Beze, Bonnes Mares, Clos de la Roche, Clos de Vougeot, Charmes Chambertin

Tasting Notes
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2016 Charmes Chambertin 1 Bottle 75cl £275
Red Burgundy Bernstein 2016 Grand Cru Limited Edition Mixed Case 1 Case 7 75cl £2,750
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 6 75cl £1,075
  • Tasting note: In contrast to many of the wines in the range that are quite expressive, this is actually quite reticent if not downright mute with very ripe but elusive aromas of mocha, plum and spicy cassis. The extremely rich, powerful and concentrated big-bodied flavors possess a suave mouth feel as the sap almost completely buffers the unusually generous but quite serious and long finish. This is a classic Bonnes Mares in terms of its underlying architecture and should require between 15 and 20 years to be at its best.

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Bonnes Mares 2 Case 6 75cl £950
  • Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
    2010
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Apr 01, 2012
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 46
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a .24 ha mix of terres rouges and terres blanches but with a bit more of the former
    Producer note: Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, noted that 2010 was "an up and down growing season with a difficult flowering that resulted in a very small crop with a very high percentage of shot berries, especially in the Côte de Beaune. We began picking on the 20th of September and picked through the 1st of October. The harvest conditions were very cool so the super clean fruit arrived at the cuverie at much more reduced temperatures than is typical. This allowed for longer and entirely natural cool macerations. The harvest itself though was less stressful than usual for the simple reason that various parcels were ready at different times due to the highly heterogeneous flowering and thus we could methodically organize our harvest regimen. Moreover, thanks to the tiny crop and cool harvest weather we had absolutely no rot pressure so again, we could pick when we chose. By contrast 2009 and 2011 saw everything basically ready at the same time so it was much more difficult to optimize the harvest for each parcel. I did our normal vinification with one exception which is that I opted to use a higher percentage of whole clusters than usual though not for all wines. In fact, particularly in the Côte de Beaune it tended to be a lot or a little but not much in between. We also elected to reduce the percentages of new wood and a rough estimate would be 15 to 30% for the villages wines, 35 to 45% for the minor 1ers, 35 to 55% for the major 1ers and between 55 to 75% for the grands crus. We used one-year old wood for the remainder. As to the wines, they have lots of energy and really speak of their underlying terroirs. They're classic burgundies if you will. As to relative performance, every commune in the Côte de Nuits was excellent though if I had to choose just one, then I would anoint Gevrey as the star. In the Côte de Beaune it wasn't quite so homogenous. The best village in my view was Pommard though Volnay was only just behind. Savigny and Beaune were also both quite good if not exactly at the same level." Proust noted that the reds were bottled in December, 2011 and January, 2012 and most wines were not filtered and none were fined. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Soft wood influence does not materially diminish the lightly spiced and beautifully fresh nose that is composed of red berry fruit, stone hints and earth nuances. The remarkably rich, round and concentrated flavors exude a focused power while coating the palate with impressive reserves of dry extract that also buffer the very firm tannins. This should be excellent in time as there is outstanding intensity yet impeccable balance and length.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze 1 Case 3 75cl £560
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2012 Clos de Beze 3 Case 6 75cl £1,125
  • Tasting note: This is also quite reduced in fact so much so that nothing is discernable, not even the spice. This is bigger, richer and more powerful than the Chapelle with more mid-palate concentration as well with a lovely mineral streak that runs the length of the wine before culminating in an explosive finish that really does a slow build. I very much like the overall depth yet it's all but certain that more will develop as this possesses ample amounts of underlying material. A classic Bèze that is built to age.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 3 Case 6 75cl £215
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Clos de Beze 3 Case 12 75cl £1,925
  • Tasting note: More subtle though still prominent oak can be found on the much more reserved red currant and dark berry-suffused nose that displays an astonishing array of spice, exotic tea and soft earth aromas. There is better energy as well as more evident minerality on the sleek and sophisticated flavors that deliver superb length and depth on the balanced finale. This is a powerful but classy effort that, very much like the Le Corton, is going to need a long stay in a cool cellar to fully resolve the supporting structure.
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 12 75cl £2,350
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2016 Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £1,450
  • (from a 0.8-hectoliter parcel of very old vines close to the forest; one of the two barrels was new): Good ruby-red. Delicate scents of kirsch, violet and bitter chocolate convey an impression of medicinal reserve. Concentrated and penetrating if not particularly expressive today, with its very dark flavors of blackberry and licorice pastille in need of a bit more pliancy. This rather brooding, youthfully imploded Chambertin stands out more for its high pitch than for its depth and complexity. I'm not yet convinced.

    -- Stephen Tanzer(91-94)Stephen Tanzer$410.00Jan 2018

     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Chambertin 1 Case 12 75cl £2,125
  • The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru comes from a single parcel from the upper slopes (0.30 hectares). It has an outgoing, slightly spicy/Oriental bouquet, with hints of hoisin suffusing the black and red fruit and a discreet tobacco note underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, juicy tannin. This is quite grippy toward the finish, although it needs more brightness and refinement on the finish, which at the moment feels quite solid.

    Score: 90/92 Neal Martin, vinous.com (49), January 2019

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 12 75cl £2,400
  • The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from a 0.23-hectare parcel close to the Morey commune. This has a superior bouquet to the Echézeaux, more controlled and detailed, offering lovely floral, violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity, and fleshy and generous toward the finish. Good potential here. Drink 2022-2040.

    Score: 91/93 Neal Martin, vinous.com (49), January 2019

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2017 Clos de Beze 1 Case 12 75cl £2,550
  • The 2017 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a rich, generous bouquet of copious red cherry and wild strawberry fruit tinged with Earl Grey and tobacco. The palate is well balanced with fine, supple tannin and a keen line of acidity. This is precise, not overly complex, but very well proportioned, building gradually toward the grippy yet elegant finish. Excellent. Drink 2022-2040.

    Score: 92/94Neal Martin, vinous.com, January 2019

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Bouzereau 2012 Corton Clos des Fietres 2 Case 6 75cl £275
Red Burgundy Cacheux 1996 Echezeaux 6 Bottle 75cl £85
Red Burgundy Cathiard, Sylvain 2017 Vosne 1er Cru Malconsorts 1 Bottle 75cl £530
  • Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
    2017
    Vosne-Romanée "Aux Malconsorts"  ♥
    1er Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
    Drink: 2035+
    Issue: 73
    Don't miss! Outstanding 
    Note: from a .74 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines
    Producer note: Not surprisingly, Sébastian Cathiard was more upbeat about the 2017 vintage than he was about 2016, noting that "2016 gave us excellent quality but no quantity yet 2017 gave us both. However, it was necessary to wait to pick because while sugar maturities came in early September, phenolic maturity came much later. As such, I chose to begin the harvest on the 13th of September and there was essentially no sorting required except for leaves or insects. Yields were very good at around 48 hl/ha with solid but not high potential alcohols that came in between 12.5 and 13%. I destemmed all of the fruit and then vinified softly over a total cuvaison period of 23 to 28 days. The malos were all over the place as some finished in April while others didn't finish until August, which is curious in its fashion because there wasn't a lot of malic acid to begin with. Even so, the post-malo pHs were pretty much ideal at between 3.45 and 3.58. As to the wines, I love the style as they're classic Burgundies with excellent freshness and terroir transparency plus they should be accessible earlier than say 2015 and 2016." Cathiard, who presently farms 4.6 ha of vines, was also very happy to report that he has signed a lease agreement for another 3.75 ha. Because certain aspects of the agreement were still being ironed out, he understandably declined to offer specifics but as details become available, I will transmit them to you. Cathiard also noted that his now in-bottle 2016s, four of which were revisited below, were bottled in April 2018. 
    Tasting note: Firm reduction renders this impossible to fairly assess today. Otherwise there is more size, weight and muscle to the big-bodied and more evidently mineral-driven flavors that are almost painfully intense, all wrapped in a gorgeously long finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. However, it is pointless to buy this without the express intention to cellar it as it is very structured.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Cathiard, Sylvain 2017 Chambolle Les Clos de l'Orme 1 Case 6 75cl £650
  • Tasting note: Here there is no reductive funk with its expressive and high-toned nose of essence of red cherry, raspberry and a whiff of herbal tea. The cool, sleek and detailed flavors possess a lacy texture before culminating in a seductive, stony and youthfully austere finale. This is, at least today, the best of the Cathiard villages level wines and a wine that should ample repay mid-term cellaring.

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2011 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 12 75cl £1,050
  • Domaine Château de la Tour
    2011
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 53
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2012 was a "challenging vintage in the Côte de Nuits for a wide variety of reasons up until the 10th of August, but it was even more challenging in the Côte de Beaune. Once we arrived at the 10th of August though it was generally remarkable how quickly the vines recovered and got the fruit ripening process back on track. Before that though the flowering was quite troubled and resulted in a lot of shatter and shot berries. While there was some disease pressure, most notably from mildew, we were able to limit the damage by treating when and how it was necessary. We began picking on the 23rd of September and brought in very clean and phenolically mature fruit and I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality as I never expected it to be as good as it was. As to the wines, they are rich, powerful and very generous yet well-balanced wines that will have that rare ability to give pleasure young but because of the concentration, age for years too. I think that they will surprise a lot of people by how well they age." It seems that Labet rarely misses anymore and 2012 is no exception. The 2011s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2013. See also the Progress Report herein regarding an extensive Château de la Tour vertical. (Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Deep ruby. An intensely floral nose is composed of cool but ripe red pinot, dark currant and plenty of pungent earth scents. There is more size, weight, power and concentration to the imposingly constructed flavors that are both supported and shaped by the tightly wound and extremely firm tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating and hugely persistent finish. This displays terrific potential but it is a robust wine to buy only if you have the wherewithal and patience to wait.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2013 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Case 6 75cl £2,450
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2013
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 96
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2016
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 61
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane and Labet noted that it was vinified with no sulfur; about 600 bottles will be produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2014 is a "beautiful vintage that produced succulent and refreshing wines that possess excellent maturity levels. The growing season was not without a few challenges but it was certainly easier than either 2012 or 2013. For example we suffered some hail damage in June and while ultimately we were not affected by the Suzukii infestation that doesn't mean we weren't worried about it. The summer was lousy and by the middle of August I began to wonder if we were going to have sufficient maturity levels to make good wines. Near perfect conditions returned right at the end of August, and September was magnificent and ripeness levels spiked rapidly. We began picking on the 24th of September and while there was a bit of sorting required it was less than usual. The fruit was clean and with very thick skins that gave us excellent colors rapidly. I really like the style of the 2014s as they are already pleasurable though they have the mid-palate stuffing and balance to age well." Labet said that there would be no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. Labet noted that his 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in July 2015. (Caveau Selections, www.caveauselections.com, Portland, OR, Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com, Los Angeles, CA and Verity Wines, www.veritywines.com, NY/NJ; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: The oak influence is a bit more subtle though by no means invisible as it suffuses the very spicy plum liqueur-like aromas that are liberally laced with earth, exotic tea and dried floral scents. There is a lush, even opulent mouth feel to the dense big-bodied flavors that possess excellent size, weight and power yet the palate impression is finer, partially because the dry extract enrobes the tannins but also because the tannins themselves are finer on the massively long finish. The level of dry extract present here is simply amazing and this is going to require at least 20 years to realize all of the incredible upside development potential. Flat out terrific!
     

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2014 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 12 75cl £1,500
  • Château de La Tour
    2014
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 65
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2015 was a "precocious vintage where we realized relatively tiny yields in Clos de Vougeot thanks to a very high incidence of shatter during the flowering, which is to say around 20 hl/ha. We chose to begin harvesting on the 8th of September and the fruit was spotlessly clean, ripe and with very thick skins. The vinifications were easy and we did almost no punching down as it would have been very easy to extract too much structure. As to the wines they are still of course developing but they appear to be extremely promising. The tannins are phenolically mature and the fruit is very ripe yet it's not ripe in the same fashion as say 2003 or 2009 and thus the terroir transparency is better. I like them a lot and they should be reasonably approachable young yet they're so concentrated that they should age for decades." The La Tour 2015s are indeed very promising and should prove to be exceptionally long-lived. That said, don't miss their 2014s either as they too are first-rate. I remind readers that there was no cuvée Homage à Jean Morin in 2014. The 2014s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2016. (Terlato Wines, Lake Bluff, Il; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Here the nose is compositionally similar to that of the regular cuvée but as is usually the case it is more reserved, more complex and the wood treatment is more subtle. There is notably better concentration to the impressively rich, powerful and muscular big-bodied flavors are shaped by dense but relatively fine tannins on the wonderfully long, balanced and again youthfully austere finale. This terrific effort is really most impressive though note well that it is going to need at least 10 years of bottle age and reward 15 to 18.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vouget Cuvee Classique 1 Case 6 75cl £625
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2028+
    Issue: 69
    Note: from yields of 20 hl/ha in 2016
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: A ripe and very fresh nose offers up notes of maraschino cherry, plum, raspberry, spice and distinct floral wisps. There is excellent concentration to the succulent but quite powerful big-bodied flavors that possess a sleek mouthfeel thanks to the relatively refined tannins shaping the youthfully austere finish that flashes fine depth on the highly persistent finish. I like the balance and this should age effortlessly.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 6 75cl £925
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2031+
    Issue: 69
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Here too there is a pretty maraschino cherry note sitting atop the slightly riper array of super-fresh plum, black cherry, cassis and violet-scented aromas. The naturally sweet and beautifully concentrated broad-shouldered flavors brim with sappy dry extract before culminating in an overtly powerful and driving finish where the intensity really builds from the mid-palate on to the explosive backend. The old vines are very much apparent and this should also age effortlessly for years.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2016 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Case 6 75cl £3,300
  • Château de La Tour
    2016
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Homage à Jean Morin
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 93-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
    Drink: 2033+
    Issue: 69
    Note: made from the first bunch on each fruiting cane; 900 bottles produced
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2016 was a "difficult but nonetheless excellent vintage that produced results no one expected. The frost was a sort of severe crop thinning and made for naturally very concentrated wines. We didn't really have too much trouble with the mildew though it certainly kept us busy fighting it off. I chose to overlap the treatments whenever I could so even with the rain the foliage was never left completely unprotected. I began the harvest on the 22nd of September with our vines in Beaune (sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 70 and 71) and then attacked them in Clos de Vougeot. Thankfully the fruit was both ripe and essentially spotless even though yields were down fully 50%. I used 100% whole clusters for the vinification with no added sulfur until the malos finished. As to the wines, they are rich, seductive and full-bodied and in particular I really like the intrinsic balance. They should age well yet drinking them on the younger side would not be out of the question." Labet has once again done excellent work with his 2016s and while they don't quite match the quality of the 2015s, it's actually quite close. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2017. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK).
    Tasting note: Hints of wood and menthol can be found on the even riper nose that is composed by notes of extract of black cherry, dark raspberry, anise, rose petal and a whiff of earth. Once again there is superb mid-palate density to the opulent yet exceptionally serious and imposingly-scaled flavors that are shaped by a firm core of robust tannins on the hugely long yet impeccably well-balanced finish. Unlike the prior two cuvées that could perhaps be enjoyed in their youth, this is expressly built-to-age and is going to need plenty of it. Impressive.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Hommage a Jean Morin 1 Bottle 150cl £925
  • Tasting note: Very generous wood stops just short of being dominant on the red pinot fruit, mocha, forest floor and newly turned earth. There is outstanding concentration to the big-bodied and overtly powerful flavors that brim with dry extract that serves to buffer the very firm but not really robust or especially austere finale. This is certainly a big wine but I don't find the separation that I normally find between this and the old vines cuvée though it may separate more clearly in time.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Cuvee Classique 1 Case 6 75cl £695
Red Burgundy Chateau de la Tour 2017 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 6 75cl £895
  • Domaine Château de La Tour
    2017
    Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
    Drink: 2032+
    Issue: 77
    Note: from vines that were planted in 1910
    Producer note: François Labet told me that 2018 had "a very large fruit set so even with our high percentage of old vines, it was critical to control yields because if you didn't, even with the very hot temperatures it was difficult to obtain sufficient phenolic maturity. I began picking my chardonnay on the 4th of September and picked both my Côte de Beaune pinot [sold under the Labet label for which the reviews will appear in Issues 78 and 79]. We chose to begin picking the Clos on the 7th of September and picked slowly as the conditions were warm but largely ideal. The fruit was very clean with yields that varied between 35 and 38 hl/ha. The potential alcohols were actually pretty reasonable considering the heat as nothing came in over 14% and most were right at 13.5%. We used 100% whole clusters for the vinifications and the fermentations gave us no particular concerns. The style of the 2018s isn't classic but given how much they have freshened over the course of the élevage, they may well surprise people as to how they evolve over the longer term." The 2017s, revisited below, were bottled in June 2019. (Terlato Wines, IL, USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, UK; Watson's Wines, 852.2606.8828, www.watsonswine.com, Hong Kong).
    Tasting note: Similar wood treatment with a touch of menthol is present on the red berry aromas. There is better mid-palate density to the broad-shouldered and powerful flavors that possess excellent depth and persistence on the balanced and youthfully austere finish where a hint of wood resurfaces. There is much better than average concentration in the context of what is typical for the 2017 vintage though note well that this is presently very backward.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Chevillon, Robert 2002 Nuits 1er Cru Chaignots 4 Bottle 75cl £95
  • Tasting note: Here there is a completely different expression as the earth, leather and iron quality plus floral notes dominate the expressive red fruit nose and rich, superbly intense flavors that both coat and stain the palate with buckets of sappy extract. To be sure, this is no model of finesse though it is by no means rustic either but the complexity, quality of material and harmony combine to create a wine of lovely potential.
     

Tasting Notes
89
Red Burgundy Chevillon, Robert 2011 Nuits 1er Cru Les Vaucrains 1 Case 6 75cl £360
  • Domaine Robert Chevillon
    2011
    Nuits St. Georges "Les Vaucrains" 1er  ♥
    1er Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 53
    Outstanding
    Note: from a 1.5 ha parcel
    Producer note: Bertrand Chevillon called the 2012 a "complicated and challenging vintage that in the end gave us both good and bad news. The bad news is that quantities were off between 40 and 50% due to the poor flowering but the good news is that the quality of the raw materials was first rate. Just to provide you with an idea, very generally speaking that are around 100 berries per bunch in a typical vintage but in 2012 there were between 50 and 60. We began picking on the 20th of September and you really couldn't ask for cleaner fruit as there was literally zero rot. Phenolic maturities were excellent and the potential alcohols were very good at around 12.5%. We did our normal vinification and the result is very rich and concentrated wines that should have early appeal but also age very well as there is no reason why they shouldn't." Chevillon noted that the domaine changed its label as of the 2011 vintage so fans should look for a change when those wines appear in the market place. Note I revisited two now in-bottle 2011s and one 2010 below. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, www.kermitlynch.com, Berkeley, CA; A&B Vintners, www.abvintners.co.uk, and Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, both UK).
    Tasting note: This is very reserved, indeed to the point where the nose is borderline taciturn and requires considerable swirling to reveal the ripe and intensely earthy nose of animale inflected dark berry fruit. The concentrated, powerful and muscular broad-shouldered flavors ooze with an abundance of dry extract that actually causes the very firm tannins to appear more civilized than they really are. Despite the reserve of the nose the austere finish is explosive and the length is excellent.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2009 La Romanee 1 Bottle 75cl £4,600
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2009
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 10, 2012
    Drink: 2029+
    Issue: 45
    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2010 fashioned "superbly elegant and exceptionally fresh wines but unfortunately there isn't a lot of them. We lost some yield due to the frost but it was mostly limited to the vines at the bottom of La Colombière. The poor flowering though contributed the most to the loss of yield and all told we were down about 30% relative to what we obtained in 2009. I elected to begin picking on the 26th of September and while the fruit was really quite clean, it still required some sorting though no more or no less than usual. I strongly believe in thoroughly sorting everything no matter the vintage as it's the little details that can make a big difference. Potential alcohols were very good if not high and ranged between 12 and 13%. As to the wines, I very much like them as they reflect their individual terroirs clearly. If I had to try to describe 2010 in terms of vintage comparisons, I would say that it is a blend of the styles of 2001 and 2008." As the scores and comments suggest, the now in-bottle '09s have also turned out extremely well and a number of them are really quite stunning. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: Initially a mild touch of reduction mutes the nose but some aggressive swirling quickly releases a kaleidoscopically broad range of spice nuances that add real breadth to the ultra-elegant, ripe and quite pure aromas of red pinot, plum and cassis that precede the rich, full and silky medium-bodied flavors that are discreet yet powerful and superbly persistent. This is an exceptionally stylish and classy wine that is supported by ultra-fine tannins and the hallmark finishing austerity. While the '09 La Romanée is essentially a wine of finesse it doesn't mean that it isn't built to age because it more assuredly is, indeed it will require at least 20 years to arrive at its peak.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2010 La Romanee 1 Bottle 75cl £4,800
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
    2010
    La Romanée
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 97
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 49
    Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2011 was an "exceptionally precocious vintage that not only started early but ended early. I chose to begin picking on the 3rd of September and brought in super clean fruit though there was some sorting work required for under ripe berries, which cost us around 5%. Quantities were down again and I would estimate that they were off between 15 and 20% relative to a normal vintage. One of the really impressive aspects of this vintage is just how ripe the underlying phenolics are even though the potential alcohols were only slightly above average at between 12 and 13%. It was warm during the harvest and the fruit was obviously warm as well when it arrived at the cuverie. As such the fermentations started relatively rapidly. I elected to push the length of the cuvaisons significantly, which is to say that they normally last about 20 days but in 2011 the average was 25. The malos were varied with some finishing early and some late but the post-malo pHs were pretty much textbook at between 3.5 and 3.6. Overall, 2011 is not a great vintage but I like the wines a lot as they have good aging potential plus they will offer a lot of pleasure young." In other news Liger-Belair told me that he acquired the Nuits 1er monopole of La Grande Vigne (it's actually in Prémeaux) which measures 2.21 ha. He will also have some white next year as a .5 ha portion of La Grande Vigne is planted to chardonnay. As the scores and comments suggest, the now in-bottle '10s have also turned out extremely well and a number of them are really quite stunning, in particular the Reignots. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM, Grand Cru Selections, LLC, nedbenedict@gmail.com, NY/NJ, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX, C'est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: This is discreet and reserved with a gorgeously complex nose that offers up notes of violets, cassis, black berry, clove, sandalwood and anise hints. There is a palpable sense of energy to the brilliantly well-delineated, cool and restrained flavors that possess outstanding mid-palate concentration with focused power and a strong mineral component that culminate in a driving and explosive finish. What is interesting here though is that the power is delivered with no apparent weight and the supporting tannins are wonderfully sophisticated. While there is some of the trademark youthful austerity it seems less pronounced in 2010 than in some other recent vintages. A magnificent and perfectly balanced effort of pure silk that should age accordingly and this is undoubtedly one of the best wines in a great vintage.
     

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2016 Echezeaux 1 Bottle 75cl £1,450
Red Burgundy Comte Liger-Belair 2017 Echezeaux 2 Bottle 75cl £1,450
  • 92-95 BH - Tasting note: Firm reduction. The finer and slightly denser flavors possess solid dry extract as well as a velvety and highly sappy seductive mouthfeel where the extract does a good job of buffering the long, complex and mocha-infused finish. Lovel

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Comtes Lafon 2011 Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses 1 Case 6 75cl £330
  • Lafon's 2011 Monthélie is sweet, supple and seductive. Dark red cherry pit, flowers and spices meld together in a soft, voluptuous wine loaded with tons of appeal. The 2011 offers gorgeous resonance, volume and texture, not to mention considerable pleasure. Dominique Lafon makes more important reds, but I often find myself attracted to the Monthélie for the pure joy it so often delivers. 

    -- Antonio Galloni

Tasting Notes
90
Red Burgundy Coquard Loison Fleurot 2015 Clos Vougeot 2 Case 6 75cl £820
Red Burgundy de Montille 2011 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 1 Case 3 150cl £350
  • Tasting note: This is also quite restrained with ultra-pure aromas of wet stone, floral hints, sandalwood and very fresh red berry fruit scents. There is a focused power to the robust yet refined medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of supporting sap that helps to buffer the otherwise firm and well-integrated tannic spine on the explosively long, balanced and moderately austere finish. This beauty will also require ample patience.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy de Montille 2014 Vosne 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 1 Case 6 75cl £1,100
  • Tasting note: A discreet application of oak sets off the openly floral and spicy red currant, plum, sandalwood and Asian tea scents. There is impressive mid-palate density to the muscular and notably powerful medium weight plus flavors that seem to be constructed on a firm base of minerality, all wrapped in strikingly persistent finish that is austere but well-balanced thanks to the abundant level of sappy dry extract. Like the Clos du Roi, this is explicitly built-to-age and don't waste your precious bottles by drinking them too young.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2009 Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1 Case 6 75cl £3,950
  • The 2009 Musigny Vieilles Vignes fleshes out beautifully with endless layers of fruit that caress the palate in stunning style. Sweet floral notes meld into expressive dark red fruit in this mysterious, evocative Burgundy. There is a weightless intensity to the Musigny that is achingly gorgeous. Waves of flavor continue to build towards the sexy, racy finish as the 2009 shows off its pedigree. The 2009 will always be an exuberant Musigny, but time in bottle will help shed some of the baby fat. This is likely to be a great, great wine for several decades. 

    -- Antonio Galloni

Tasting Notes
97
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2010 Chambolle 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 1 Case 3 75cl £2,025
  • Tasting note: A strikingly layered nose of cassis flowers, black cherry, spice, stone and violets serves as a stunning introduction to the cool, restrained and highly vibrant medium-bodied flavors where the transparency is something to see as this is positively crystalline. The lilting and caressing flavors glide across the palate yet there is an explosiveness to the finish that is almost unexpected. Lovely juice that is fashioned in an understated and altogether classy style.

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2012 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 12 75cl £3,600
  • Deep ruby. This is also quite floral yet the character of it is from whiter flowers than those of the Amoureuses. In addition there is good ripeness but also fine freshness to the plum, black cherry, cassis and blueberry aromas. The supple but tautly muscular medium weight plus flavors possess a suave mouth feel thanks to the abundant dry extract that both coats the palate and buffers the very firm tannic spine on the highly persistent finish. Patience will be required.

    Score: 93/95 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (53), January 2014

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2013 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 12 75cl £3,500
  • Domaine Comte de Vogüé
    2013
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 93-95
    Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
    Drink: 2028+
    Issue: 57
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the south-west portion of the vineyard
    Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2013 vintage as one that had a "very difficult spring with an equally poor flowering that produced a lot of shatter and a high incidence of shot berries. Somewhat curiously we had a very solid July and August, which in the last few vintages has been rare, but despite the clement conditions the maturities didn't really progress much. By contrast September was pretty much lousy and in particular the second half of it. The wet and humid conditions were perfect to allow rot to spread and to spread fast and we were really worried that we could have a serious problem. We chose to begin picking on the 5th of October and picked slowly until the 13th. While the general level of quality was quite high we did have to do significant sorting and I would put our sorting losses at around 10%. Between these losses and the poor flowering we wound up with a bit less overall yield than we obtained in 2012. With respect to the vinifications the fruit had a very high solid to liquid ratio so we had to be careful not to over exact the structural elements because it would have been easy to do. As to the wines, I love them because the terroir almost couldn't be any clearer. They are refreshing, intense and balanced and I think they're going to surprise a lot of people in the sense that such a difficult vintage could produce such beautiful wines. Moreover I believe that they will continue to put on weight as they age because the musts were actually denser than the wines seem to be now so all of that dry extract has to show up sooner or later." The 2012s, revisited below, are simply terrific and were bottled between February and March 2014 and have turned out even slightly better than I originally foresaw. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, Ashland, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, Boston MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email david.forman@atlanta.com, GA, C'est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
    Tasting note: This is much more deeply pitched and even more reserved though aggressive swirling liberates a wonderfully complex array of plum and black raspberry liqueur-like aromas where added breadth is present in the form of spice, earth, pepper, dried flowers and a hint of underbrush. The dense, powerful and broad-shouldered flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the vibrant finale as well as pushes the very firm core of tannins to the background. This is a big but beautifully well-balanced wine that should amply reward up to 20 years of cellaring.
     

     

    NMThis must be the first time that I have tasted the Bonnes-Mares from barrel and thought it could be mistaken for the Musigny! The 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an intense black pepper and blackberry bouquet, touches of mint and forest floor in the background, growing in intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile and quite obdurate tannin, the acidity finely tuned and cutting through the surfacing blueberry and blackberry fruit. There is plenty of spice furnishing the finish and lingering long after the wine has departed, completing a seriously fine Bonnes-Mares that is stylish and intellectual.

    Score: 92/94Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (216), December 2014

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2016 Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1 Bottle 3 75cl £2,175
  • A restrained and cool and yet perfumed and ultra-spicy array offers up aromas of dark cherry, raspberry and a wide range of floral elements. The concentrated, tautly muscular and tension-filled flavors possess excellent depth of material as well as an abundance of minerality while exhibiting superb persistence on the firm, dusty, youthfully austere and built-to-age finish where a hint of bitter cherry pit appears. This sleek and classy effort will need an extended stay in a cool cellar. In a word, brilliant.

    Score: 96 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (73), January 2019

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2016 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 3 75cl £1,200
  • Tasting note: Deep ruby. Once again there is an exuberant freshness to the nose of plum, violet, peony, spice and earth aromas where a top note of kirsch is present. There is outstanding density and power to the big-bodied and overtly muscular flavors that deliver fine complexity on the caressing, sappy and harmonious finish. This too is lovely and should drink well a bit earlier than it normally does if that's your preference.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy de Vogue 2017 Bonnes Mares 1 Case 3 75cl £900
  • Domaine Comte de Vogüé
    2017
    Bonnes Mares
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93

    Tasting note: A very ripe yet agreeably fresh nose reflects notes of blue berry, plum liqueur and violet that are cut with spice, menthol and earth hints. The exceptionally rich and impressively full-bodied flavors evidence a taut muscularity, all wrapped in an overtly powerful and lingering finish that is naturally sweet. As one would reasonably expect this is quite firm; indeed it's borderline rustic.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Domaine des Lambrays 2017 Clos des Lambrays 1 Bottle 300cl £850£750
  • The 2017 Clos des Lambrays: vinified and blended by Thierry Brouin, raised and racked by Boris Champy and bottled by current winemaker Jacques Desvauges. Got it? Good. There is just a touch of reduction on the nose, which is perhaps a little smudged and a bit static compared to the nascent 2018. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and dark berry fruit laced with clove, bay leaf and sage. The linear finish lacks some depth and grip. Not bad, though not the best in recent years.

    -- Neal Martin 92 Neal Martin 2023 - 2040 Not Available Jan 2020

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2003 Chambertin 2 Bottle 150cl £495
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Nuits 1er Cru Proces 3 Case 6 75cl £245
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2017 Gevrey 1er Cru Clos Prieur 2 Case 6 75cl £450
  • Cask sample. Scented again like so many of these Drouhin 2017s, scented with dark-red fruit and a stemmy freshness. Peppery, firm, spicy and generous even in its elegant framework. Long and satisfying and fresh. 
    17+/20 Julia Harding jancisrobinson.com (Nov-2018)

Tasting Notes
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2017 Griotte-Chambertin 2 Case 6 75cl £1,750
Red Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2017 Clos de Beze 1 Case 6 75cl £1,790
  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2017
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Apr 10, 2019
    Drink: 2025+
    Issue: 74
    Note: 40% whole clusters
    Producer note: As is usually the case, I met with Véronique Drouhin who noted that the 2017 growing season "was much less eventful than its 2016 counterpart though this is not to say that we didn't have some drama, mostly from a late April frost scare. And instead of the heavy mildew pressure we endured last year, we did have a significant attack of bud eating caterpillars that cost us some yield. While it's hard to estimate with precision, it was probably around 10% of the potential crop. [Known in Burgundy as mange bourgeons or literally, bud eaters.] Otherwise the season was clement and calm and the healthy yields were able to ripen without difficulty. Despite this the véraison was extended and this made harvesting tricky as each parcel had to be picked precisely when it was perfectly ripe. Thankfully the weather conditions in early September were ideal and just as importantly they held all the way to the end of what was an extended harvest for us. The fruit was super-clean and notably ripe with better volumes in red than white. We used a bit more whole clusters than usual because as I noted the fruit was clean and ripe with good phenolic maturities. One aspect of the 2017s that is worthy of note is how much they changed before and after the malos and I thought that they really improved. Moreover, the malos did not unduly degrade the acidities so there is good freshness and energy to the wines. For us at Drouhin, 2017 produced classically styled reds that are good to very good but I would describe the whites as genuinely great." I agree with Drouhin in terms of her description of the 2017s and overall I found the quality here to be impressive and particularly so among the big houses. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, NY, USA; Pol Roger Ltd., www.polroger.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: While not quite as aromatically complex as the GE, it's close as this also features a panoply of spice elements along with exceptionally fresh and dense red currant, violet and plum aromas. Interestingly the mouth feel of the middle weight flavors is super-fine, indeed almost lilting and delicate, with a relatively pliant if sneaky long finish. This is lovely if a bit atypical.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Drouhin Laroze 2011 Clos de Beze 1 Case 6 75cl £550
  • Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
    2011
    Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 92-95
    Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
    Drink: 2023+
    Issue: 49
    Don't miss!
    Note: from a parcel of 1.5 ha of vines planted in 1949
    Producer note: Philippe Drouhin described the 2011 growing season as having a "very early start with unusually hot and dry days that rapidly caused hydric stress in the vineyards. While June was normal we were still very behind with respect to accumulated rainfall. Well, that problem was rectified and then some by rainy, cool and overcast conditions during much of July and August. The good news is that the last week of August and most of September saw perfect conditions and we were able to harvest carefully and without urgency. The fruit was mostly clean though in certain sectors there was enough botrytis that it required careful sorting to excise. Quantities were again notably less than a normal crop and with 2012 being substantially less, clients aren't going to be happy with their allocations. We are at least partially compensated though by the very fine quality of these vintages and while 2011 is not going to be anyone's candidate for the vintage of the century, it certainly is competitive with 2010." For more offerings from Drouhin-Laroze, see their operation below called Larose de Drouhin. (Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, Atherton, CA, Encore Wine Imports, www.encorewineimports.net, Pleasanton, CA; Bayfield Imports, www.bayfieldimporting.com, Brooklyn, NY; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Fine & Rare Wines, www.frw.co.uk, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, and Anthony Sarjeant, all UK).
    Tasting note: An extraordinarily spicy and complex nose evidences cool, fresh and admirably pure aromas of cassis, red berries and plum. There is a floral note on the remarkably rich, concentrated and extract-rich flavors that really coat the palate on the dusty, long and impressively deep finish. A classic Bèze and well worth considering.
     

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 1996 Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles 3 Bottle 75cl £225
  • Domaine Dugat-Py
    1996
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Evocelles"
    Villages Red 750 ml
    Score: 92
     
    Tasting note: Sauvage, mineral and freshly turned earth aromas merge seamless with the intense black fruit nose that leads to sweet, fine, dense and remarkably long flavors of excellent complexity. This is nothing short of stunning at this level and I highly recommend it though be sure to give it plenty of time, assuming that you can keep your hands off of it!
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 1999 Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles 2 Bottle 75cl £225
  • Saturated ruby. Knockout nose combines kirsch, minerals, game and torrefaction notes of espresso and chocolate. Wonderfully sweet and thick, but enlivened by adequate acids and strong minerality. Very intense fruit flavors of blackberry and blueberry, complicated by a note of dark chocolate. Muscular but broad and pliant.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 89-92 Stephen Tanzer

    Domaine Dugat-Py
    1999
    Gevrey-Chambertin "Evocelles"  ♥
    Villages Red barrel
    Score: 89-91
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2001
    Drink: 2006-2011
    Issue: 1
    Outstanding
    Note: a miniscule 18 hl/ha from 70 year old vines and 100% new oak
    Producer note: Bernard Dugat has once again fashioned some of the best wines of the vintage. The wines are dramatic, bold, rich, nuanced, superbly dense and yet for all this, reflect reasonably well their underlying terroirs. He has added a new wine to his range with a one-third hectare parcel of 75-year-old Vosne villages vines; this brings the size of the Domaine to slightly over 7 hectares. The cheerful, friendly Bernard proudly told me that 1999 represents the 25th vintage for him.
    He is very excited about his 99s and rightly so. His approach to the vintage was largely the same as usual which chez Dugat means that Bernard destemmed 70 to 75% of the fruit, did not cold macerate, had a total cuvaison of 20 to 22 days and was neither obliged to chaptalize or acidulate (the wines have natural alcohol levels of around 13%). He varied the amount of new oak considerably, depending on the cru in question. As the scores and notes indicate, these are some of the most exciting wines made anywhere in the Côte. 

    Tasting note: Extremely ripe fruit, intense yet round flavors of Gevrey earth and soil undertones and big, ripe tannins. The old vines character is quite evident and the length here is extraordinary. Another gorgeous villages.
     

Tasting Notes
92
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 2000 Chambertin 1 Bottle 75cl £1,695
  • Chambertin

    Full ruby. Knockout nose of cassis, leather, game, flowers, minerals and coffee. Offers great sweetness and tensile strength; a highly concentrated yet subtle wine with a very strong spine. Finishes with remarkable finesse for a wine so powerful, but then it Chambertin. Dugat vinified whole clusters.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 92-95 Stephen Tanzer

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Dugat-Py 2000 Mazis Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £2,350
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2003 Clos Saint Denis 1 Bottle 75cl £490
  • Domaine Dujac
    2003
    Clos St.-Denis
    Grand Cru Red barrel
    Score: 91-94
    Tasted: Jan 01, 2005
    Drink: 2015+
    Issue: 17
    Producer note: Jacques Seysses, and his son Jeremy who is responsible for the Fils et Père and the white wines, said that they had an extended harvest which began on August 25th and continued until September 8th, noting that "sugars were exceptional, coming in between 13 and 15.5%. The vintage was an intellectual challenge because at first it wasn't entirely evident as to which way we should go given the characteristics of the raw materials the vintage gave us. We decided to go with a short, fast and high intensity fermentation with more punch downs than usual but over a shorter period, which is to say 4 times a day but only for 10 days rather than 14. Yields were down fully 50% and to better manage the lack of volume, we did 100% whole cluster fermentations (no destemming). We did correct the acidities for some wines though interestingly, we found that acidities actually rose during fermentations. The sugars were sufficiently high that a number of wines actually finished their fermentations in barrel because we didn't want to leave the musts in contact with the pomace for too long a time. We also used a bit more new oak than usual though this was as much a function of the reduced quantities than any particular desire to use more wood. We'll bottle in January as usual as we see no reason to rush matters." The Dujac '02s reviewed here all came in at the top of their predicted ranges and they are, as a group, extremely impressive. (Wilson-Daniels Ltd., St. Helena, CA and Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA for southern California; Morris & Verdin, O.W. Loeb, Howard Ripley and Lay & Wheeler, UK).
    Maison Dujac Fils et Père:
    Tasting note: Very heavy reductive notes presently hide the nose but the flavors are fresh, intense and beautifully textured as the sap buffers the firm and ripe tannins. Like the Charmes, this is a big wine by the usual standards of Clos St. Denis with ample power and volume with a palate staining finish and length to burn.
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2005 Charmes Chambertin 1 Bottle 75cl £380
  • Domaine Dujac
    2005
    Charmes-Chambertin
    Grand Cru Red 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Apr 14, 2012
    Drink: Try from 2017+
     
    Tasting note: This is notably ripe yet still fresh and quite pretty with violet, plum and black cherry liqueur aromas that are trimmed in plenty of earth. The big, powerful and solid-concentrated middle weight plus flavors have really deepened and broadened since I last saw this in barrel. While I would stop short of describing it as robust the tannic structure is quite firm and this is clearly built to last for another 20 years. An impressive effort that it best left in the cellar for another 7 to 10 years as it will require at least that long for the tannic spine to mellow. This is definitely a lovely effort with excellent potential because despite all of the size, weight and punch, there is an impeccable sense of balance.
     

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2009 Bonnes Mares 2 Bottle 75cl £760
  • Tasting note: A remarkably fresh and expressive nose displays high-toned red berry fruit, earth and mineral aromas that give way to firm, serious and equally mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that offer excellent verve on the well-muscled and especially structured finish that seems to go on without end. This positively dazzling effort is not quite old school in basic character though it knocks on the door of it and like several of these grands crus, will need 15 to 20+ years to reach its full prime. A 'wow' and potentially one of the greatest vintages ever for the Dujac Bonnes Mares, which is saying something given this wine's superb track record.

Tasting Notes
96
Red Burgundy Dujac 2012 Clos de la Roche 1 Bottle 75cl £380
  • The 2012 Clos St. Denis is another pure, mineral-driven wine. Graphite, savory herbs, purplish mint lift out of the glass. The 2012 is intense in its linearity today and clearly needs years in bottle to fully blossom, but its sheer beauty and potential seem pretty clear, even at this early stage. The Clos St. Denis is tense, bright and powerful to the core.

    -- Antonio Galloni (95-97) Antonio Galloni 2022 - 2042

Tasting Notes
95
Red Burgundy Dujac 2012 Echezeaux 1 Bottle 75cl £415
  • Tasting note: An exuberantly spicy and floral nose features a variety of red berry fruit scents laced with hints of sandalwood and Asian spices. There is a silky and restrained mouth feel to the intense, concentrated and detailed flavors that brim with dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the moderately firm tannins on the lingering finale. This is unusually accessible in the context of the Dujac 2012s and should drink well earlier than any of these grand crus.

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2013 Bonnes Mares 2 Bottle 75cl £470
  • Deep red. Pungent cherry, licorice and wild herbs on the nose, lifted by exhilarating treble notes of blood orange and peony. Sharply delineated and tightly wound, dominated by its structure today. A more savory style than either the Clos Saint-Denis or Clos de la Roche, with dark berry, mineral and wild herb flavors carrying impressively on the extremely long, saline aftertaste.

    -- Stephen Tanzer

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2015 Clos de la Roche 1 Bottle 75cl £505£440
  • Bright, dark red. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Echézeaux, offering scents of black raspberry, clove, mocha and dark chocolate. Similarly more soil-driven in the mouth than the 2016 version, but with its thick flavors of earth, spices and saline minerality conveying a light touch for 2015. Finishes sappy, vibrant and long, with thoroughly ripe tannins and echoing minerality.

    -- Stephen Tanzer 94 Stephen Tanzer
     

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2015 Charmes Chambertin 1 Case 3 75cl £900
  • This is more aromatically restrained still as the earthy and sauvage-tinged nose only grudgingly provides glimpses of the pretty lavender, spice, tea and red cherry aromas. This possesses an interesting palate impression as the mid-palate is round, supple and caressing yet the finish is dusty, firm, serious and borderline rustic. I suspect that this will loosen up quickly such that it will be approachable after only 7 to 8 years yet require 15 to 18 to arrive at its full peak.

    Score: 92/94 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (65), January 2017

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2015 Charmes Chambertin 1 Case 6 75cl £1,800
  • This is more aromatically restrained still as the earthy and sauvage-tinged nose only grudgingly provides glimpses of the pretty lavender, spice, tea and red cherry aromas. This possesses an interesting palate impression as the mid-palate is round, supple and caressing yet the finish is dusty, firm, serious and borderline rustic. I suspect that this will loosen up quickly such that it will be approachable after only 7 to 8 years yet require 15 to 18 to arrive at its full peak.

    Score: 92/94 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (65), January 2017

Tasting Notes
94
Red Burgundy Dujac 2016 Clos de la Roche 1 Bottle 75cl £395
  • (the estate made a full crop of 40 hectoliters per hectare, as there was no frost here): Full, dark red. Captivating aromas of raspberry, strawberry, spices, flowers and sweet new oak. Juicy, intense and aromatic on the palate--youthfully imploded in a positive way. Projects compelling energy and subtle sweetness to its red berry and spice flavors. Finishes very long and tight, with an exhilarating wild berry element. A knockout sharply delineated Clos de la Roche that offers terrific intensity without any sense of weight.

    -- Stephen Tanzer (93-96) Stephen Tanzer

Tasting Notes
93
Red Burgundy Dujac 2016 Clos Saint-Denis 1 Bottle 75cl £475
96

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