2023 - 2063
16th Mar 2020
March 2020 Week 3, The Wine Advocate
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Petrus comes galloping out of the glass with bold, expressive notions of Black Forest cake, blueberry preserves and Christmas pudding with nuances of molten chocolate, Chinese five spice, candied violets, licorice and kirsch plus wafts of roses and cinnamon stick. Full-bodied, rich, spicy and fantastically concentrated, the palate has compelling freshness and a solid base of wonderfully ripe, velvety tannins, finishing very long and opulent. The aromatics at this youthful stage are atypical for Petrus and quite stunning—this 2017 is a bombshell! Furthermore, it is a unique style for this estate and one avid collectors should seek out!
I asked Pétrus winemaker Olivier Berrouet what he felt had changed about this 2017 since I last tasted it from barrel. "During primeurs the wine was based on its aromatic side. With further time in barrel, the structure came through." He hit the nail on the head. I remember clearly how forward the wine appeared when I tasted it from barrel—a little blousy even. Now in bottle, it has gained backbone, layers and that underlying gravitas that makes Pétrus what it is. And yet, this is an exotic, downright flamboyant expression of the vineyard. I don't generally like surprises, but I loved this one!