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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
2007
La Romanée
Grand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 95
Tasted: Jan 30, 2010
Drink: 2022+
Issue: 37
Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2008 was a "very complicated vintage. The April to June period was reasonably good but July and August were difficult. We began picking on the 27th of September and there was a moderate amount of sorting required. I would estimate our sorting losses at between 5 and 12%, which when coupled with the naturally lower yields of the vintage left us with, on average, 30% less wine than in a normal harvest. This is to say that in 2008 we realized yields of between 19 and 27 hl/ha. Sugars for the grapes that we kept were very good at between 12 and 13%. I did a relatively soft vinification as I reduced the cuvaison by a few days. Extraction though was really no problem as the grapes that we kept had normal skin thicknesses. The new wine had very high levels of malic acid, which definitely has affected the élevage due to the long malos. You had to be very vigilant to make sure that everything was very clean. Normally, we would just add a dose of SO2 but if you're malolactic is still progressing, you risk stopping it. Overall, I really like the vintage as the wines are pure and very transparent." As the scores and comments suggest, the in-bottle '07s have turned out very well, which is to say pretty much consistent with my original expected ranges. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA & TX, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for "Selection Pas Mal", New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: As it usually is, the nose is positively kaleidoscopic with a wonderful breadth of red and black fruit aromas, violets and Asian spice nuances that continues onto the rich, full and very stylish medium full flavors blessed with impressive amounts of supporting mid-palate sap that relegate the firm tannic spine to the background for the moment before exploding into a youthfully austere and mouth coating finish that seems to go on and on. This is not an especially big La Romanée but like several of its brethren, it's tightly focused, balanced and carries enormous flavor authority.
 

2019 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru, which comes from the Domaine, has a very sensual bouquet of pure cranberry, raspberry and wild strawberry aromas, plus delicate rose petal scents mixed with rainswept limestone. The medium-bodied palate offers lithe tannins, a cashmere texture and lovely weight and harmony. Impressive structure combined with finesse on the persistent finish. Superb. 

-- Neal Martin (95-97) Neal Martin 2023 - 2055 Not Available Dec 2020

Burghound: 

Producer note: Eric Rousseau was away at the time of my visit so it was his daughter Cyrielle (at the domaine since 2012) who enthusiastically explained that 2015 "gave us a super growing season that was relatively easy though not without a few concerns. There was some early season oidium pressure and then due to the fact that the conditions were so hot and dry that there were several short periods of hydric stress. Otherwise though there really wasn't much to cause anxiety and the fruit progressively ripened to a very high level. We chose to begin picking on the 3rd of September and brought in immaculately clean fruit that possessed potential alcohols that ranged between 12.2 to 13%. The skins were thick that there was a relatively high incidence of shot berries. As such yields, while still reasonable, were roughly 20% lower than what we realized in 2014. As to the wines they're at once structured but inviting and refreshing and thus they should probably drink well for all their lives as the tannins are quite ripe yet there is good freshness and a fine sense of harmony." While it's hardly news, for the last 20 years the domaine has hardly put a foot wrong and it certainly didn't in 2015 as the wines, especially at the grand cru level, are brilliant. However I strongly advise that you not ignore their 2014s as they too are absolutely worthy of your consideration. The 2014s, revisited below, were bottled in April 2016. Speaking of bottling, Rousseau noted that they are now using bottles where the bottom of it is embossed with the name of the domaine. 

Tasting note: There is just enough wood present to mention but not so much as to materially detract from the cool, pretty and airy red berry, earth, humus, anise and rose petal-scented aromas. The refined yet quite powerful middle weight are almost painfully intense and there is so much minerality the mouth feel is akin to rolling small stones around in your mouth and this is particularly so on the sappy, palate coating and hugely long finish. This too is seriously impressive and very classy.
 

Rating

95

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2016 - 2050

Reviewed by

Neal Martin

Issue Date

28th Oct 2016

Source

227, The Wine Advocate

While in some vintages La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion can be close in quality, that is not the case in this vintage. The 1996 Haut-Brion, a blend of 50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc is clearly on a higher plane than the La Mission. There is something much more expansive and complete on the nose: greater depth of fruit, more harmonious with scents of underbrush, tar, black olive and this bottle perhaps less "feral" than I have noticed on previous examples. The palate is very well balanced with dark cherries, sous-bois and cedar. This is one vintage where I think the Cabernet Franc plays an important role and lends more complexity. This is a 1996 that has retained and built upon beguiling fleshiness and it will continue to evolve with style and panache. Tasted July 2016.

Rating

(96 - 98)

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2019 - 2070

Reviewed by

Neal Martin

Issue Date

30th Apr 2015

Source

218, The Wine Advocate

The Château Yquem 2014 was picked over 9 weeks this year, with one-quarter of the grapes picked prior to 15 September. It delivers 134 grams per liter residual sugar and 7.3 grams per liter tartaric acid, with a pH 3.60. It has a captivating bouquet (I know...I know...what else were you expecting) But it entrances with its pure, wild honey notes mixed with almond and white chocolate scents, bestowed with beguiling delineation and focus. The palate is very poised with the acidity nigh on perfect. Occasionally an Yquem only reveals its components parts at this early juncture, necessitates conjecture. However the 2014 has a sense of harmony and completeness already, as if the élevage is merely there to usher it on to its finished state. There is undeniably great depth here, perhaps less conspicuous than other vintages because of that silver thread of acidity: notes of lemon sherbet, orange zest, shaved ginger and again, a few "flakes' of white chocolate. It is extremely long with tenderness rather than power on the finish. It's not quite up there in the rarefied heights of say, the 2001 or 2009, but it is what we call in the trade, "the business."

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
2017
Vosne-Romanée "Aux Malconsorts"  ♥
1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 92-95
Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
Drink: 2035+
Issue: 73
Don't miss! Outstanding 
Note: from a .74 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines
Producer note: Not surprisingly, Sébastian Cathiard was more upbeat about the 2017 vintage than he was about 2016, noting that "2016 gave us excellent quality but no quantity yet 2017 gave us both. However, it was necessary to wait to pick because while sugar maturities came in early September, phenolic maturity came much later. As such, I chose to begin the harvest on the 13th of September and there was essentially no sorting required except for leaves or insects. Yields were very good at around 48 hl/ha with solid but not high potential alcohols that came in between 12.5 and 13%. I destemmed all of the fruit and then vinified softly over a total cuvaison period of 23 to 28 days. The malos were all over the place as some finished in April while others didn't finish until August, which is curious in its fashion because there wasn't a lot of malic acid to begin with. Even so, the post-malo pHs were pretty much ideal at between 3.45 and 3.58. As to the wines, I love the style as they're classic Burgundies with excellent freshness and terroir transparency plus they should be accessible earlier than say 2015 and 2016." Cathiard, who presently farms 4.6 ha of vines, was also very happy to report that he has signed a lease agreement for another 3.75 ha. Because certain aspects of the agreement were still being ironed out, he understandably declined to offer specifics but as details become available, I will transmit them to you. Cathiard also noted that his now in-bottle 2016s, four of which were revisited below, were bottled in April 2018. 
Tasting note: Firm reduction renders this impossible to fairly assess today. Otherwise there is more size, weight and muscle to the big-bodied and more evidently mineral-driven flavors that are almost painfully intense, all wrapped in a gorgeously long finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. However, it is pointless to buy this without the express intention to cellar it as it is very structured.
 

2019 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru

The 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru contains around 30% whole cluster and is vinified in 500-liter barrels instead of open-top fermenters. It is very aromatic on the nose, presenting strong floral/peony aromas and touches of oyster shell and sea cave. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a slightly brutish finish compared to the Clos Vougeot. 

-- Neal Martin (91-93) Neal Martin 2023 - 2042 

2019 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru comes from purchased fruit and includes 30% whole cluster. It has an attractive bouquet of red plum, blood orange and a light tang of seaweed. The medium-bodied palate offers supple tannins and fine acidity. Fleshy and ripe with a touch of white pepper on the finish. Good body and weight. This is quite a "gutsy" Clos Prieur with good substance. 

-- Neal Martin (90-92) Neal Martin 2023 - 2038 Not Available Dec 2020

2019 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaune Cras 1er Cru

The 2019 Beaune Cras 1er Cru has a very distinctive bouquet ,with granite, almost flinty aromas infusing the red berry fruit. A strong marine influence emerges with time. The palate is beautifully balanced, displaying fine delineation, good firm structure and a solid, quite edgy finish that feels crunchy in texture. Abundant freshness here. This Beaune should give 12–15 years’ drinking pleasure. Excellent. 

-- Neal Martin (91-93) Neal Martin 2023 - 2038 Not Available Dec 2020

Tasting Notes

The late Michel Delon always thought that this was the greatest vintage he had produced. We often tasted it side by side with the 1982, because I always preferred the latter vintage. Of course, the two vintages are quite different in style, with the 1986 a monument to classicism, with great tannin, extraordinary delineation, and a huge, full-bodied nose of sweet, ripe cassis fruit intermixed with vanilla, melon, fruitcake, and a multitude of spices. The wine has always been phenomenally concentrated, yet wonderfully fresh and vigorous. The wine still seems young, yet it is hard to believe it is not close to full maturity. It is a great example of Leoville Las Cases, and another compelling reason to take a serious look at the top Cabernet Sauvignon-based Medocs of 1986. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035. Last tasted, 9/02.