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Domaine Comte de Vogüé
2013
Bonnes Mares
Grand Cru Red barrel
Score: 93-95
Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
Drink: 2028+
Issue: 57
Don't miss!
Note: from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the south-west portion of the vineyard
Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2013 vintage as one that had a "very difficult spring with an equally poor flowering that produced a lot of shatter and a high incidence of shot berries. Somewhat curiously we had a very solid July and August, which in the last few vintages has been rare, but despite the clement conditions the maturities didn't really progress much. By contrast September was pretty much lousy and in particular the second half of it. The wet and humid conditions were perfect to allow rot to spread and to spread fast and we were really worried that we could have a serious problem. We chose to begin picking on the 5th of October and picked slowly until the 13th. While the general level of quality was quite high we did have to do significant sorting and I would put our sorting losses at around 10%. Between these losses and the poor flowering we wound up with a bit less overall yield than we obtained in 2012. With respect to the vinifications the fruit had a very high solid to liquid ratio so we had to be careful not to over exact the structural elements because it would have been easy to do. As to the wines, I love them because the terroir almost couldn't be any clearer. They are refreshing, intense and balanced and I think they're going to surprise a lot of people in the sense that such a difficult vintage could produce such beautiful wines. Moreover I believe that they will continue to put on weight as they age because the musts were actually denser than the wines seem to be now so all of that dry extract has to show up sooner or later." The 2012s, revisited below, are simply terrific and were bottled between February and March 2014 and have turned out even slightly better than I originally foresaw. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, Ashland, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, Boston MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email david.forman@atlanta.com, GA, C'est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
Tasting note: This is much more deeply pitched and even more reserved though aggressive swirling liberates a wonderfully complex array of plum and black raspberry liqueur-like aromas where added breadth is present in the form of spice, earth, pepper, dried flowers and a hint of underbrush. The dense, powerful and broad-shouldered flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the vibrant finale as well as pushes the very firm core of tannins to the background. This is a big but beautifully well-balanced wine that should amply reward up to 20 years of cellaring.
 

NMThis must be the first time that I have tasted the Bonnes-Mares from barrel and thought it could be mistaken for the Musigny! The 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an intense black pepper and blackberry bouquet, touches of mint and forest floor in the background, growing in intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile and quite obdurate tannin, the acidity finely tuned and cutting through the surfacing blueberry and blackberry fruit. There is plenty of spice furnishing the finish and lingering long after the wine has departed, completing a seriously fine Bonnes-Mares that is stylish and intellectual.

Score: 92/94Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (216), December 2014

**Note: from a 2.7 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the south-west portion of the vineyard** Not unexpectedly here the brooding and somber nose is completely different with a much greater emphasis on earth and smoked tea nuances on the darker hued fruit that includes cassis and black raspberry. The rich, powerful and impressively concentrated large-scaled flavors exhibit a sleek muscularity on the pure, balanced and gorgeously long finish. Like most of these 2010s, there is a serenity present here that allows the wines to unfold elegantly and coherently. This is a compact and quite forceful wine yet it delivers that power with no sense of weight or heaviness.

Score: 95

Medium red. Sweet, musky aromas of raspberry, wild cherry, mint, marzipan and earth. Supple, spicy and high-toned, with fresh cherry and red berry flavors. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins and captivating spiciness. A very strong village wine.

-- Stephen Tanzer 89+ Stephen Tanzer $75.00 Mar 2004

Tasting note: Here there is a completely different expression as the earth, leather and iron quality plus floral notes dominate the expressive red fruit nose and rich, superbly intense flavors that both coat and stain the palate with buckets of sappy extract. To be sure, this is no model of finesse though it is by no means rustic either but the complexity, quality of material and harmony combine to create a wine of lovely potential.
 

he 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon is deep garnet-purple colored with a mind-blowingly gorgeous nose that defies words: warm cassis, red roses, sandalwood, Indian spices, crushed rocks, menthol and iron ore with waft of lilacs and truffles. Medium to full-bodied with a rock-solid frame of super-ripe, grainy tannins and tons of freshness, it finishes incredibly long and remains incredibly provocative.

Score: 100 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate, October 2018

A core blend of what will likely be the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon consists of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Opulent, with a voluptuous texture, that wonderful sucrosity that is characteristic of this vintage, and sweet, sweet blue and black fruits interwoven with a floral dimension, this is a full-bodied, gorgeously proportioned, super-rich and intense Spottswoode that should drink remarkably well when finally released and age nicely for 25 or more years. This wine has incredible upside potential, so don’t miss it.

Score: 96/100 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (228), December 2016

A more exuberant, sexy wine than the 2014, yet still in the house style emphasizing elegance and purity, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate knocks it out of the park with its huge nose of crème de cassis, plums, Asian spices, scorched earth, tobacco leaf and graphite. This flows to a full-bodied, opulent, incredibly concentrated wine reminiscent of the 2013 on steroids. Full-bodied, with building tannin, integrated acidity, a stacked mid-palate, and a great finish, this is a tour de force in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the greats. It has three to four decades of life ahead of it.

Score: 99 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com, December 2017

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon possesses off the charts ripeness as well as a level of exoticism that recalls the 2010. An infusion of dark red cherry, plum, white flowers, leather, tobacco and menthol accompany this super-expressive, sumptuous Cabernet Sauvignon. Violet, licorice and a host of spiced nuances develop with time in the glass. In 2015, Spottswoode's Cabernet is decidedly luscious and flamboyant, but I would give it a few years to shed some baby fat. There is plenty to look forward to.

Score: 96+ Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, March 2018

Composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the deep purple-black colored 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautiful nose of dried roses, lavender and Chinese five spice over a core of warm blackcurrants, kirsch and wild blueberries, plus wafts of fallen leaves and dusty earth. The medium to full-bodied palate features the most amazing intensity of perfumed red, black and blue fruit flavors supported by exquisitely fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epic length and depth. Truly stunning.

Score: 100 Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate (233), October 2017

This full-bodied blend of 54% Sauvignon Blanc and 46% Semillon has a level of concentration and intensity that makes it the dry white wine of the vintage. Loads of minerality, a hint of subtle spice, but mostly just pure orange marmalade, candle wax, honeysuckle and caramelized melons make for a full-bodied, distinctive style of wine to drink over the next 50+ years.

Score: 98 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205), March 2013

A blend of 54% Sauvignon Blanc and 46% Semillon, this singular, compelling white exhibits notes of orange blossoms, lemons, melons, crushed rocks, spice and flowers. It is a sensational, provocative, full-bodied dry white to enjoy over the next 40 years.

Score: 94/97 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (194), May 2011

Tasted at Chateau Haut-Brion. There is a slight floral aspect to the nose of the Haut Brion Blanc with hints of almond, white chocolate and fresh pear underpinned by fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp citric fruit on the opening. It is slightly more phenolic than recent vintages, just a hint of white pepper tingling on the tongue with a well-balanced finish that is persistent. Good potential. Tasted November 2012.

Score: 95 Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com, February 2013

Rating 93

Drink Date 2016 - 2026

Reviewed by  Stephan Reinhardt

Issue Date 4th Mar 2016

Source 223, The Wine Advocate

Moët's 2006 Grand Vintage Brut blends 42% Chardonnay with 39% Pinot Noir and 19% Meunier. This cuvée opens with ripe and pretty intense as well as elegant and remarkably pure Chardonnay aromas; additionally, there are floral and refreshing chalky lemon and herbal flavors, and subtle notes of brioche and bread. This Champagne is full-bodied, intense and powerful, yet really fine and refreshing on the palate; it has nutty flavors and a lot of tension and chalky flavors. This is a dry and firmly structured cuvée of great expression, finesse and elegance. Still very young. Date of disgorgement was May 2014. Dosage is five grams per liter.

Chef de cave Benoît Gouez and his team keep on producing serious cuvées in an approachable, reductive style. The Impérial Brut is light and fresh, but also generous and moderately sweet. The Rosé Imperial is another important cuvée of the house; I find it remarkably good and well structured due to a good dose of Pinot Noir and Meunier red wine. The 2006 Grand Vintage Rosé, Moët’s 40th vintage Rosé, is deep, powerful and concentrated, and provided with a firm structure and great complexity. Raised under natural corks, the 1999 Grand Vintage Collection is Moët’s value for money prestige Cuvée, since Dom Pérignon is marketed under its own brand. It is a great, intense and elegant Champagne with matured flavors on the nose, but the wine is still vital and refreshing on the palate and capable to age for another five years, probably more.

Rating 93

Reviewed by Daniel Thomases

Issue Date 26th Apr 2004

Source 152, The Wine Advocate

The 2001 Testamatta, a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Colorino, is a very full and firm ruby, and its expansive nose of red currant and plum fruit, underbrush, Mediterranean herbs, and sweet oak, is matched by rich, round flavors of ripe red fruit, vanilla, and seared oak. Already quite approachable, it has the stuffing to last for another decade and a half. 

Rating

95

Release Price

$200 - 250

Drink Date

2012 - 2060

Reviewed by

 Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Issue Date

23rd Apr 2003

Source

146, The Wine Advocate

Compared with the flamboyant aromatics of the 1997, Yquem's 1996 plays it closer to the vest, although there is a lot going on. Light gold with a tight but promising nose of roasted hazelnuts intermixed with creme brulee, vanilla beans, honey, orange marmalade, and peaches, this medium to full-bodied offering reveals loads of power in its restrained, measured personality. There is admirable acidity, weight, texture, and purity in this impeccably made Yquem. However, patience will be a virtue. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060.  

This vintage, seriously maligned because of the rains that plagued the harvest in Sauternes, was actually an outstanding vintage for both Yquem and its nearby neighbor, Chateau Suduiraut, which brought in much of their crops before the rains did any damage. Yquem then waited until the vineyards dried out, bringing in their last grapes on November 7. The 1982 is a very forward style of Yquem, plump, succulent, with honeyed pineapple, peach, and apricot flavors, exhibiting some, but not a great deal of botrytis. In the mouth, it is massive, thick, and almost as impressive as the 1983, but one does not sense the same degree of length or potential complexity. Nevertheless, this is still a great Yquem that has been somewhat overlooked because of the attention lavished on the 1983 and 1986. Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 12/90.

Score: 92 Robert Parker, Bordeaux Book (3), November 1998

ROBERT PARKER: 98

NEAL MARTIN: 95

JANCIS ROBINSON: 17.5

WINE SPECTATOR: 83

DECANTER:

With greater evidence of botrytis than the colossal 1983, but less power and alcohol, the 1986 d'Yquem tastes reminiscent of the 1975, only more precocious. Several highly respected Bordeaux negociants who are d'Yquem enthusiasts had claimed the 1986 d'Yquem was the greatest wine produced at the property since the legendary 1937. However, after the release of the 1988 they concluded that the 1988 surpassed even the 1986. The 1986's enthralling bouquet of pineapples, sauteed hazelnuts, vanillin, and ripe apricots is breathtaking. Compellingly concentrated, its breadth as well as depth of flavor seemingly know no limits. This full-bodied, powerful, yet impeccably elegant d'Yquem should provide memorable drinking for 40-55 more years. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2040. Last tasted, 7/93.| Wine Advocate.August, 1993

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs perpetuates the practice begun with the 2004 vintage, of combining the fruit from Au Velle, En Motrot, Combe du Dessus, En Deree and En Champs (all downhill from Champeaux on the north side of Gevrey) into a single and - at least in this instance -- highly synergistic village wine, representing nearly half of the estate's total acreage. Fruit from these sites is co-fermented in two lots segregated by age of vine, and then blended (which we did in the glass, since like its stable mates, this wine will be racked only once, in March, pursuant to bottling). Ripe black fruits with carnal, fungal and mineral nuances combine for a clear, bright, satin-textured, and substantially-concentrated impression, free of any superficial sweetness and successfully resisting the influence of the all new barrels. Long, rolling low tones of black fruits and forest floor complete a picture very 2005 in its combination of bright fresh-fruit acids with dark, even slightly somber hues of flavor. Taking over this domaine in his mid-twenties, Arnaud Mortet appears poised to bottle a superb collection from his father's final harvest. The crew took a brief second pass over certain parcels, he relates, and the bunches from some young vines required triage, but otherwise the fruit was perfect at first picking. Malolactic fermentations continued well into last autumn. Mortet emphasizes that he will continue a search for elegance and refinement begun in recent years, with a lighter touch during fermentation, and at least for vintage 2006 the employment of some previously-used barrels in order to de-emphasize wood at the modest end of his price spectrum.

Score: 91/92David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (170), April 2007

Rating

92

Release Price

NA

Drink Date

2022 - 2050

Reviewed by

Neal Martin

Issue Date

28th Feb 2017

Source

229, The Wine Advocate

The 2004 Cheval Blanc has always been a wine that I felt needed patience on behalf of the wine lover, and so it is proving to be the case. Served blind I remarked upon a surprisingly Burgundy-like bouquet with ample red cherries, candied strawberry and redcurrant scents, the Merlot clearly more conspicuous than the Cabernet Franc, at least for now. The palate is medium-bodied with just a touch of coarseness on the entry. I appreciate the weight and balance here and belatedly the Cabernet Franc begins to express itself on the latter half, lending structure and grip, a dash of spice and a bit of sinew. Whilst it will never have the persistence of other vintages and regrettably continue to be dwarfed by the 2005, it remains a very fine Cheval Blanc from Pierre Lurton and his team. Tasted September 2016.