White Burgundy

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Region Producer Vintage Name Qty Unit Size Price Note Rating
White Burgundy Amiot, Guy 2003 Chassagne 1er Cru Caillerets 1 Case 75cl
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  • Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils
    2003
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Caillerets"
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 88
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2005
    Drink: 2007+
    Issue: 19
    Note: from two parcels, one of 30 year old vines and another of 70 year old vines planted on le vrai chardonnay
    Producer note: Thierry Amiot told me that 2003 isn't a "bad millésime but it didn't seem very interesting at first. The élevage wasn't linear or regular - each wine had its own personality and we had to treat each one individually. We started the harvest on August 18th but we harvested over the course of an entire month as we tried to harvest each parcel at its optimum ripeness level. Yields were quite low at around 32 hl/ha in white, mainly because Chassagne was really hit hard by frost, especially in the lower lying vineyards. Sugars were in the 13.5% range but I think they were that "low" only because the vines shut down; otherwise, we might have seen sugars in the 15%+ range. The vines jump started again around the 19th of August because there was a big storm which hit St. Aubin and while no rain fell in Chassagne, all the water ran downhill from St. Aubin and flooded our vineyards. This helped enormously and essentially unblocked the vines. Because of the reduced yields, I used a bit more new oak than usual as well as more SO2 and I bottled with slightly higher levels of gas. As to acidification, we did acidify but it was bit by bit and only until I could taste it and then we stopped immediately. There was no point in trying to deny the impact of the vintage and all the acid additions were meant to do was ensure a clean and healthy fermentation environment. The wines will probably drink well early but it won't surprise me if they wind up aging reasonably well." Like many domaines did, Amiot bottled his whites with decidedly higher gas and SO2 levels. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; Boston Wine Company, Boston, MA; Lea & Sandeman, H&H Bancroft, Rare & Fine Wine, House of Townend, all UK).
    Tasting note: Sweet, vanilla and spice-infused oak notes frame very fresh and higher-toned peach and white flower fruit aromas that give way to toasty, intense and long flavors that display much more of the classic minerality than any of the prior examples. This is a powerful wine that departs from its normal character but remains attractive in its fashion - just don't expect a typical Caillerets experience. I suspect this will age for up to a decade.
     

Tasting Notes
88
White Burgundy Amiot, Guy 2003 Chassagne 1er Cru Les Vergers 1 Case 75cl
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  • Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils
    2003
    Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Vergers"
    1er Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 87
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2005
    Drink: 2006+
    Issue: 19
    Note: from 70+ year old vines on original chardonnay plant material - Amiot calls this le vrai chardonnay or the true chardonnay
    Producer note: Thierry Amiot told me that 2003 isn't a "bad millésime but it didn't seem very interesting at first. The élevage wasn't linear or regular - each wine had its own personality and we had to treat each one individually. We started the harvest on August 18th but we harvested over the course of an entire month as we tried to harvest each parcel at its optimum ripeness level. Yields were quite low at around 32 hl/ha in white, mainly because Chassagne was really hit hard by frost, especially in the lower lying vineyards. Sugars were in the 13.5% range but I think they were that "low" only because the vines shut down; otherwise, we might have seen sugars in the 15%+ range. The vines jump started again around the 19th of August because there was a big storm which hit St. Aubin and while no rain fell in Chassagne, all the water ran downhill from St. Aubin and flooded our vineyards. This helped enormously and essentially unblocked the vines. Because of the reduced yields, I used a bit more new oak than usual as well as more SO2 and I bottled with slightly higher levels of gas. As to acidification, we did acidify but it was bit by bit and only until I could taste it and then we stopped immediately. There was no point in trying to deny the impact of the vintage and all the acid additions were meant to do was ensure a clean and healthy fermentation environment. The wines will probably drink well early but it won't surprise me if they wind up aging reasonably well." Like many domaines did, Amiot bottled his whites with decidedly higher gas and SO2 levels. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; Boston Wine Company, Boston, MA; Lea & Sandeman, H&H Bancroft, Rare & Fine Wine, House of Townend, all UK).
    Tasting note: A fresh but emphatically toasty nose leads to sweet, round, fat and generous peach and apricot-infused flavors that are very forward yet retain good intensity and solid balance. The acidity pokes through somewhat on the medium length finish but it's noticeable rather than really intrusive.
     

Tasting Notes
87
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2009 Criots Batard Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: A notably ripe and ever-so-mildly exotic but not surmature nose of primarily spicy yellow orchard fruit gives way to rich, powerful and impressively vibrant broad-shouldered flavors that possess excellent size and weight though not the detail of the Caillerets on the palate staining and hugely persistent finish. This is a big and opulent but not heavy or ponderous Criots though one would be hard pressed to describe it as an elegant version.

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2009 Batard Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: In contrast to the expressiveness of the Bienvenues and Criots, this is reserved to the point of being almost mute and only aggressive swirling coaxes reluctant aromas of white flowers, spice and a range of mostly yellow dried fruits. There is superb intensity to the mouth coating, powerful and weighty flavors that exhibit a taut muscularity on the opulent but focused and well-detailed finish. This is almost painfully intense and absolutely bone dry, which is unusual in the context of the vintage. A knockout!

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Boillot, Henri 2009 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: This is also quite ripe but less overtly so and remains notably more elegant with its expressive nose of honeysuckle, acacia blossom, pear and apple aromas. In accordance with the superior freshness, there is a bit more energy as well with a solid acid spine shaping the delicious and extract-rich medium weight plus flavors that possess excellent density on the vibrant, mouth coating and strikingly long finish. In a word, terrific.
     

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2008 Chevalier Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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  • Producer note: Stéphane Arbelet and Philippe Prost, Bouchard's managing director and winemaker respectively, noted that 2008 "presented many challenges climactically speaking. Depending on the sector, there was heavy rain, hail, wide temperature swings and various kinds of rot. We began picking in the Côte de Beaune on the 24th of September with the pinot and because of the cool and dry conditions, we were able to harvest the chardonnay slowly and deliberately, in fact we did not finish until the 6th of October. The chardonnay was healthy and quite clean and while there was some sorting required, it was minimal. The yields in tonnage were lower than in 2007 but because of the dehydrating effects of the persistent north wind, the realized yield in juice was much lower. Ripeness levels were generally very good though they did vary by sector and particularly by altitude. In terms of the wines, they have everything they need to be very long lived, which is to say vibrant acidity, ample concentration and exceptional freshness." Both Arbelet and Prost were exceptionally high on the quality of their '08 whites and their enthusiasm was born out by the quality of what I saw here. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: This is also wonderfully elegant with high-toned, pure and airy aromas of white flower, light toast, spiced pear and a hint of green apple that gives way to supple yet detailed mineral-suffused middle weight flavors that are perhaps even more refined than those of the Perrières, all wrapped in a balanced, stylish and lingering finish. As good as this is, and it is very good, it's not necessarily leagues better than its junior partner, just different though it will most likely require a few more years to reach its apogee.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Chevalier Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Batard Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2009 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: This is slightly riper than the straight Chevalier with a similar nose but with more yellow fruit and spice influence that is followed by rich, serious, broad-shouldered and intensely stony flavors that possess a positively gorgeous sense of underlying tension that adds energy to the massive, explosive, long and palate staining finish. This is a big yet impeccably well-balanced wine that should age for years.

Tasting Notes
95
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Chevalier Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Bouchard Père & Fils
    2010
    Chevalier-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 94
    Tasted: Jun 01, 2012
    Drink: 2018+
    Issue: 47
    Note: from a 2.54 ha parcel
    Producer note: Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, noted that 2010 was "an up and down growing season with a difficult flowering that resulted in a very small crop with a very high percentage of shot berries, especially in the Côte de Beaune. As just one example, in our parcel of Goutte d'Or we realized 60% less than we did in 2009. We began picking on the 20th of September and picked through the 1st of October. The harvest conditions were very cool so the super clean fruit arrived at the cuverie at much more reduced temperatures than is typical. The harvest itself though was less stressful than usual for the simple reason that various parcels were ready at different times due to the highly heterogeneous flowering and thus we could methodically organize our harvest regimen. Moreover, thanks to the tiny crop and cool harvest weather we had absolutely no rot pressure so again, we could pick when we chose. By contrast both 2009 and 2011 saw everything basically ready at the same time so it was much more difficult to optimize the harvest for each parcel. As to the wines, they have lots of energy and really speak of their underlying terroirs. They're classic burgundies if you will." Proust noted that most of the upper level whites were bottled in December, 2011 and January, 2012. Prost also discussed recent changes in their approach to bottling to battle the scourge of premature oxidation. I detail the keys points in my premox update that can be found after the introduction to this Issue. And as I reported in Issue 42, Bouchard continues to bottle all of its whites under the agglomerate cork called Diam, which is guaranteed to be TCA-free. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk, UK).
    Tasting note: A restrained, indeed almost mute nose reluctantly gives up aromas of acacia, citrus peel, wet stone and white peach. The supple and ultra-refined flavors possess a beguiling purity along with as much mineral character as the Perrières, before culminating in a balanced and harmonious finish. This is a very, very understated effort and it's going to require the better part of a decade before it unwinds to reveal its full potential.
     

Tasting Notes
94
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte - owc 6x75 3 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: Here the nose displays noticeable sulfur and it's enough to knock down the expressiveness of the otherwise attractively ripe and complex aromas that are compositionally similar to those of the Chevalier. The textured, concentrated and overtly muscular flavors brim with an abundance of dry extract before concluding in an explosively long, mouth coating and almost painfully intense finish. As is often the case, the 2010 La Cabotte displays characteristics of both the Montrachet and the Chevalier and this is one beautiful wine. Note that I do not expect the sulfur to be an issue as the wine ages though if you're tempted to try a bottle young it would be good to decant it first.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2010 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte - owc 3x150 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: Here the nose displays noticeable sulfur and it's enough to knock down the expressiveness of the otherwise attractively ripe and complex aromas that are compositionally similar to those of the Chevalier. The textured, concentrated and overtly muscular flavors brim with an abundance of dry extract before concluding in an explosively long, mouth coating and almost painfully intense finish. As is often the case, the 2010 La Cabotte displays characteristics of both the Montrachet and the Chevalier and this is one beautiful wine. Note that I do not expect the sulfur to be an issue as the wine ages though if you're tempted to try a bottle young it would be good to decant it first.

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2011 Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: This is aromatically quite similar at this early stage to the La Cabotte. There is an extraordinarily powerful effort with impressive mid-palate density and so much dry extract that it imparts a sappy, even seductive texture to the mouth coating flavors that terminate in a breathtakingly long finish. Moreover, as good as the La Cabotte is, and it is indeed exceptionally good, there is simply no contest between the two wines as there is just another dimension present here. In sum, this beautifully well-balanced Monty is an absolute knockout!
     

Tasting Notes
96
White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Puligny 1er Cru Combettes 5 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Corton Charlemagne 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Chevalier Montrachet (Domaine) 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte 2 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bouchard Pere 2015 Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Bruno Colin 2010 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot 1 Bottle Jeroboam
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  • Tasting note: Relatively heavy sulfur knocks down the nose though aggressive swirling coaxes a solidly complex array of both white and yellow fruit aromas that include pear, apricot, peach and apple. There is excellent power to the lush, even opulent flavors that enjoy excellent mid-palate concentration and the abundant dry extract imparts a textured mouth feel to the mouth coating, dry and long finish. Like the Boudriotte, the naturally higher acidity of the 2010 vintage adds a touch of vibrancy to what can often be a heavy white

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Bruno Colin 2012 Chassagne 1er Cru Boudriottes 1 Case 75cl
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  • Tasting note: Here the wood treatment is not subtle as it fights somewhat with the white flower, pear and rosemary oil scents. This too is notably well-concentrated with plenty of size and weight to the medium-bodied flavors that possess an abundance of palate coating dry extract before concluding in a citrus-infused finish that offers moderately good complexity and persistence.
     

Tasting Notes
91
White Burgundy Carillon 1998 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Coche Dury 2009 Meursault Villages 1 Bottle 75cl
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  • Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury
    2009
    Meursault  ♥
    Villages White 750 ml
    Score: 90
    Tasted: Jun 01, 2012
    Drink: 2016+
    Issue: 47
    Outstanding
    Note: from Vireuils Dessus
    Tasting note: A pretty, ripe and very Meursault nose of both white and yellow orchard fruit, hazelnut and a gentle touch of wood toast leads to delicious, round, concentrated and quite generous flavors that possess excellent depth and length, particularly for a villages level wine.
     

Tasting Notes
90
White Burgundy Coche Dury 2011 Meursault Villages 2 Bottle 75cl
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White Burgundy Coche Dury 2012 Meursault Villages 2 Bottle 75cl
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White Burgundy Colin-Morey 2009 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet - oc 6x75 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2000 Batard Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2000
    Bâtard-Montrachet
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 93
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2002
    Drink: 2008-15
    Issue: 7
    Producer note: This visit I met with Philippe Drouhin and winemaker Laurence Jobard. They observed that the quality of the 2000 vintage was as good as 1999 but not better. The harvest was an abundant one and it was necessary to do a serious green harvest to try and keep yields in check. Sugars were higher than in '99 and there was not much chaptalization and acidities were quite good and thus there were no corrections. The malos were important as 2000 had a very high proportion of malic acid, which partially explains the vibrancy of many of these 2000s because the élevage period was extended.
    I found the 2000 Drouhin whites to be generally better than their '99 counterparts and thus I mildly disagree with Philippe Drouhin's assertion that 2000 chez Drouhin is not better than 1999; in fact, I found it to be substantially better at the lower levels. It is at the upper levels that there is parity. In any event, these are wines to consider as they offer elegance, purity and finesse with good delineation and nice transparency of terroir plus very good fruit/acid balance. In particular, don't miss the villages level wines. I tasted them in late November.
    Tasting note: Classically proportioned Bâtard with explosive white fruit aromas framed by a deft touch of oak and this positively bursts with mouth coating sap and superbly intense flavors of ripe orchard fruits and a lovely touch of underlying minerality. Relatively big and rich for a Drouhin white yet there is no lack of ripe supporting acidity and this remains balanced and refined. Incredibly long and persistent and by far and away the best wine to this point. A very impressive showing.
     

Tasting Notes
93
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2002 Beaune Clos des Mouches blanc 2 Case Mag
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  • Tasting note: Classic ruby. This is a much more serious wine with deeper, richer and earthier fruit aromas followed by sappy, precise, nicely complex and racy flavors that are long, intense and offer excellent flavor authority. This is so primary that it suggests that it will require ample time in bottle to be at its best.

Tasting Notes
90
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2002 Corton Charlemagne - owc 1 Case 75cl
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  • Maison Joseph Drouhin
    2002
    Corton-Charlemagne
    Grand Cru White 750 ml
    Score: 92
    Tasted: Jul 01, 2004
    Drink: from 2008+
    Issue: 15
    Note: from vines in Aloxe-Corton in the sub-climat Languettes
    Producer note: Philippe Drouhin and winemaker Laurence Jobard believe that 2002 is unlike any other recent vintage with the exception of "perhaps 1999. 2002 is really quite good in both colors and here at Drouhin we really don't have a preference between the two colors, which is rare because usually one side outperforms the other. We certainly had less yield than in 2001 and one appealing aspect is that the wines can be approached now but will clearly be capable of aging. Another is that despite the richness and weight, the vintage remains one of finesse rather than power though obviously the grands crus make quite a statement. In particular, we think the Bâtard is especially successful." (Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; UK agent is Dreyfus-Ashby with a number of additional sources, including Howard Ripley, Ballantynes of Cowbridge, Lea & Sandeman and Decorum Vintners).
    Tasting note: This exhibits much more aromatic restraint with aromas that are quite floral and possess only a hint of the usual green apple fruit notes. The mid-palate is relatively understated with wonderfully pure, full-bodied and tight flavors that deliver excellent length. This is quite concentrated and while it is powerful, the overall effect is really quite fine, in particular on the remarkably refined and defined finish. Despite the reserved, rather cool character at the moment, I suspect this will unfold relatively quickly and be drinking well in 5 to 8 years.
     

Tasting Notes
92
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2008 Beaune Clos des Mouches blanc 2 Bottle Jeroboam
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  • Tasting note: A very subtle reductive character knocks down the expressiveness of the lemon and pretty white flower aromas so I would strongly suggest decanting this for 20 to 30 minutes first. The detailed, pure and lightly mineral-driven flavors possess really lovely balance and fine length. If there is a nit it is that this doesn't possess the complexity of the best 1ers here though the track record of this wine is such that I wouldn't bet against it developing materially more complexity in the bottle.

Tasting Notes
90
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2009 Beaune Clos des Mouches blanc 1 Bottle Jeroboam
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  • Tasting note: Very mild reduction is not enough to completely hide the otherwise pretty nose of red berry fruit, violets and earth aromas though if you're going to drink one young, I would recommend 20 to 30 minutes of aeration first. The rich but well detailed and quite finely mineral-inflected flavors possess a fleshy mouth feel as well as excellent volume and length. This is quite ripe but not over the top and this should age well.

Tasting Notes
92
White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2009 Batard Montrachet 1 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot, M de Laguiche 2 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot, M de Laguiche 1 Case Mag
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2 Case 75cl
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White Burgundy Drouhin Joseph 2015 Beaune Clos des Mouches blanc 1 Case Mag
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